Thanks and welcome to the madhouse.

The crankcase oil is part of the total capacity.

@@bodganeering sorry for asking but the total of the engine or primary ?

The engine and the primary are linked by a couple of really small holes, you add the specified amount to the primary to make sure there's oil in there for the first start. The total amount of oil, as far as I know, is the for the tank, crank and primary. As long as its flowing and on the dipstick it'll be fine.

The oil tank is 2.27 litres, primary is 0.5 litre.

They are still available but mainly online, we stopped using Whitworth in the 1960’s so they are becoming pretty rare. Unless you have really old bikes standard imperial spanners/sockets will fit. Thanks.

@@bodganeering Sometimes I wish you guys still used Whitworth, I love the old Triumphs, more now than ever!

No I don't, sorry. If you search for Triumph 97-1527 you should find them for sale on the internet.

Thanks.

I’ll be honest I don’t know the size of the seals off the top of my head. Split seals will give you a drop in oil pressure, mine started to come on when the bike was hot and the oil thinned a little allowing it to blow past the seal.

That’s a generic cleaning solution for carburettors from Amazon that’s designed for use in baths.

Thanks.

It's pulled and torn the base coats, I should've waited another 24 hours, still, looks better than it did. Thanks.

I think the frame boss is slightly bent which isn’t helping. I’ve learned to live with it. 😂

ZZR400

@@bodganeering yea those caps collect moisture like nothing else :( its good to tare down the cap and lube up the springs for the latches. The get pretty grotty after a few years :)

@@Craig-mk6uk they're not the best design.

@@bodganeering Take care dude. Ride safe bro

You too mate, stay rubber side down.

Was very close... LOL

My impatience is starting to bite me on the bum with this one.

After watching the next part you'll be reaching for something stronger than popcorn, she's fighting me...

Thanks!

The tape has bit me in the arse, it's contracted overnight and pulled the base coat in a little causing some creases and tears. Not a happy bunny. My own fault for being a little impatient. All will be revealed in the next enthralling instalment... Thanks.

If you mean the inner spacers that sit outside the bearings? That wasn't a hard hit to get them in, just a tap to ensure they're seated.

@@bodganeering Yes those ones but you are still transferring the shock load through the balls. Otherwise good vid and helpful.

Thank you.

I think I got that one from a local horse riding place but plenty available on Amazon, eBay etc.

@@bodganeeringcheers ,I will have a try with the horse riding places.the ones on Amazon and eBay have got tubes and stuff.i really enjoy you’re videos it shows it like it is ,so I will be doing my first oil change on my triumph. I’m 71 in August and a bit wobbly after 2 mini strokes,I part exchanged my 1200 Harley sportster for it as the sportster was very heavy up top. It was a 2005 xl1200r so a rubber mounted one,the triumph by comparison is so light weight. I’ve still got the shovelhead bobber but the weight feels lower down.but not much good for flipping around the country lanes. It’s shit getting old.i now see why Elvis left the building.👍🇬🇧

@jamesfleming5875 I wouldn’t call Triumphs light, but still lighter than a Sportster… 🤣 Getting old really suck balls. Thanks.

@@bodganeering I went to my local farm supply store,got 4 of them for 84 pence each.a bargain and it all went of well thanks to you’re videos.👍

@@jamesfleming5875 to coin a phrase, winner winner chicken dinner. Happy it helped mate, stay rubber side down.

Not a filter as such just a bellmouth inlet.

I think Myford and Boxford are in the same league for smaller lathes, the VFD and three phase motor on the Myford has been a game changer, gives a lot more control. Thank you.

Thanks. Engineering in the loosest sense… 😂

I'm looking to sell my FJ12 and get a reliant trike. As I'm sick of falling off. Haven't got any more shoulders to bust up 😅

@savinggracechurch4112 I know your pain. 😂

I did on that for some unknown reason. Didn’t even realise until I edited the video.

No need to open up the bore as it was already out to 38mm.

Off the top of my head, 2x20mm mild steel flat bar with a 90 degree bend and two mounting slots cut into it to allow for adjustment. I used the original out cover mounting holes and made two rods that are threaded at one end to go into the holes and can clamp the bar into place and they're tapped at the other end to accept a couple of shorter bolts to hold the cover in place. The block is just a piece of 12mm nylon held in place with a countersunk nut and bolt. Nothing fancy just a rough bodge to get me out of a bind that I've never got round to fully fixing. I think I got the idea from progressiveclassicproducts.co.uk/engines.html

Got it, thanks very much. I don't have the machines at your disposal but I do have the original bolts and a tap and die set. What could go wrong! Cheers

When I built the engine form a box of bits it was during the unknown virus of an unknown origin and it was proving difficult to get parts in a reasonable time frame so I made up the tensioner to get me going, it's just stayed ever since.

Mine is close to its limit so I might do the same, quieter too.

I managed to do it without removing the basket, I'm lazy...

Haha, your laziness looks like hard work!

If you go to around 12:30 on the video I quickly glance over checking the oil level.

That happened on my Suzuki GS, ended up having to source another front wheel. The previous owner had done thousands of miles on warped discs and I think the vibrations had caused the bearings to move in their housings.

That’s the manual gear selector. Twisty thumb bit to change down and button to change up.

Thanks for the tips. Annoyingly I’m quite restricted for space and the dining table isn’t an acceptable solution in my wife’s eyes… 😂

I'm not quite there yet... LOL

I’m not 100% TBH as they came with the trike. At a guess mini wheels.

I can't remember what size socket I used to drive the bearings in with, a pretty big one. But you can also use a brass drift as I did on the second one. As for the dust covers, I fitted them on one side as they helped space out the bearing in its housing, I know some people don't bother with them. I'd say that's your call.

There's many ways to skin a cat, the draw it out with a threaded bar is just one. If you look at the Triumph workshop manual it recommends driving the bushes out using their tool, part number 97-1527, more commonly known as the 'knocking the crap out of it' method. Using the correct size tool ensures you apply pressure to the outside of the bush, which is slightly shorter than the internal tube, which doesn't damage the rubber compound.

I'll be honest, not great. I've already killed one and I'm being very careful with my last one. I'm looking into either getting some Tufnol gears made, as original, or even a toothed belt configuration. As usual life is throwing too much at me at the moment for me to get my head into sorting it out.

@@bodganeering im in the process of making brass gears,ty for your reply

I'm a bit old fashioned when it comes to lights and I do like the glow you get from an incandescent lamp and the soft on/off. But I do agree that these LED units are a lot tidier. Thanks.