Pretty hives. Thanks for sharing your time, Blessed Days... I run Russian style vented flat lids, but I built houses for about 15 years. You could drill one or more small holes near the underside of the roof. They don't need to be real large and if you tilt the drill so the hole tilts up, it'll help keep any rain water from running into it. Then add a screen on the inside or outside to keep bugs out. That is what I did on my mating nuc long hive. It'll make it similar to the attic in your house, you can always stuff some fluff in the holes if your worried about Wintering vented.

See you in September , thats a great song title ! Ha ha... bye bye,so long, fairwell .(Frankie Valli ) pc

Hi from southern new Zealand 👋 you're doing great, comb is king, its the second most important thing in a hive apart from a good queen, you absolutely need as much of it as you can get. There is a technique called " checkerboarding" alternating foundation with drawn comb in a super. If you're interested i recommend Peter cowin the bee whisperer, bob binnie and kamin Reynolds who have great videos which will help you draw foundation faster, and theyre north American beekeepers. i use double brood chambers and i also use wooden frames with wax sheeted foundation so much more bee's to work with and the swarming method i use is really time consuming but allows me to draw foundation into comb very quickly, its labour intensive and there's a massive swarming risk association so i wont recommend it for your situation and i suspect bee time management is a bit of an issue for you guys with multiple things on the go. You shouldn't need to attach old comb to new foundation to get it drawn, that foundation looked a little dry to me. A good coating of wax should resolve that issue for you. The noise your little queen is making is called "tooting" its rare to see a mature queen do it but not unheard of, usually virgin queens make the sound especially before they hatch from a queen cell. She's a little small but as long as her pattern is good and the colony is pheromone stable i wouldn't worry about it. Glad you got a little honey 👍🐝😃 great video 👍👋

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Great video, I’m in Victoria Australia and harvested some really dark honey at the end of our last season, any idea what flowers they got that nectar from. Thanks.

Hi, new beekeeper here. I always harvest the same day frames are taken off

How much honey do you eat?

❤❤❤ madunya banyak saya sangat menyukainya.semoga sukses

harvest frames within 48 hours, this is written in stone!

❤❤❤❤ like ❤❤

Good luck ❤❤❤

Freeze honey frames for long-term storage

If you're not going to extract right away you should freeze your frames. It will kill any bugs that may be on your frames.

Nice job on the coop....good carpentry.. pc

Im so sorry you experienced the curse of the dratted moth. Great little extractor though👍I'm not sure if you are aware of this, but if you want to delay your extraction, shove your honey frames into a freezer for 48 hrs. This will kill any greater or lesser wax moth eggs and then you can seal them in a airtight container and extract when you want. Many commercial beekeepers do this because they have a large amount of frames to work through and often you have to store honey frames up while you're pulling supers (honey boxes)from areas. Its an easy mistake don't beat yourself up about it, seriously when you're new to beekeeping you never think about blasted moths😅Ive helped a hobbyist who completly lost an entire stored deep frame box because it had pollen in the comb as well and wax moth loves pollen way more than honey and they actually completely stripped everything off the frames down to the wax wires😬. A rat chewed an entrance at a corner and the wax moth took out the lot. If you're going to pull food frames (frames with honey and pollen) to feed a nuc or a split i absolutely recommend freezing. Lesson learned and this year will be a greater harvest because of it. 👍 Great video 👋 from central Otago southern New Zealand 👋🥝😄

Thank you for sharing. I just invested in a 9” electric knife like one used for slicing bread, as I watched a video on it and it seemed really easy to use for uncapping the comb. It was very convenient and worth the 25 bucks.

I put a good bug zapper in my yard no moths

I always pull honey and extract same day and I have 30 hives.

Hmm... I've been using Lalvin D47 for all my meads... maybe I should broaden my horizon a bit...? It's interesting, that's for sure ...Thanks...see ya soon pc

Hey guys, great experiment. I would have liked to see the order of the yeasts the first taste taste compared to this taste taste. Like you had everyone's scoring show up, but maybe the first scoring compared to your current scoring. I hope that made sense, lol

Great experiment!

I liked this test....is the ABV the same for all ?.... did you sanitize the Siphon ( the jacker lol !) before before each racking ? Thanks pc

Looking forward to seeing the results.

Annie this looks delicious ❤ well done , excited to see more x

To stabilize the mead you can pasteurize it so you can back sweeten without blowing up bottles. 140 degrees for 15 min and you will be good to go.

Flavor combo sounds delicious. Look forward to more videos.

Yesterday I started a new mead that is similar to this one. I used fresh lilac, orange peel, and vanilla bean! I'll have to let you know how it turns out!

Looks like this batch has great potential.... can you wait ? I probably would have it drank by the 6 month mark ! Good job pc

Spiced or fruit are melomel mead! "Mead" is honey, water, and yeast! They all should go through a three step fermentation and best if aged at least a year. I own a home brewing store and needed to be able to teach what I sold.

Sounds great, good job

I'm curious to see how it comes out....how long before your 1st 'Racking ' ? ....Sounds tasty ! pc

Wow | /

The solar eclipse in Hamilton was amazing. ❤ No overcast

Thanks for the review

Looks like good raw material for some more Bees Mead brewing !

That's a great sight

Good video. Keep rocking 🐝

Part 2??

Great information, thank you

First off, thank you for sharing your experiences and challenges in beekeeping. It's always enlightening to see how others navigate the intricacies of managing hives, especially during unpredictable weather patterns like a false spring. Here are a few thoughts and pieces of advice in response to your video: 1. Preparing for False Springs: You've rightly pointed out the challenges posed by sudden warm spells followed by cold weather. To mitigate the impact of these unpredictable conditions, consider increasing hive inspections as the weather begins to warm. This can help assess the bees' food stores and overall health, allowing for timely intervention. It's also beneficial to have emergency feeding supplies ready well before these conditions occur. 2. Feeding Strategies: While fondant and sugar water are indeed useful emergency food sources, maintaining adequate honey stores within the hive throughout the year is preferable. It sounds like you're already mindful of this, but perhaps planning for additional reserves or exploring other feeding options like pollen patties earlier could be helpful. For those times when you must use fondant or sugar, ensure it's placed as close to the cluster as possible to make it accessible during cold spells. 3. Custom Equipment Challenges: Your experience with custom covers and equipment compatibility highlights an important aspect of beekeeping-adaptability. Custom solutions are great but do come with their own set of challenges. Sharing your designs or modifications with the community could provide you with feedback or suggestions on how to improve functionality or compatibility. Additionally, always have a contingency plan or alternative solutions ready for critical components like feeding systems. 4. Pest Management: Dealing with ants and spiders can indeed be tricky. Your approach using diatomaceous earth for ants is a good one, as it's effective yet safe for the bees. For ongoing pest management, consider integrating more physical barriers or moats around the hive stands. Regular maintenance and checks for gaps or openings in the hive can also deter pests. 5. Bee Health and Aggression: Aggression in hives can be a sign of various issues, including queen problems, pests like mites, or even genetic factors. Regular health checks and mite treatments are crucial. If aggression persists, requeening with a more docile strain may be a solution worth considering. Also, sharing your treatment regimen and timelines might help others offer more targeted advice. 6. Safety and Health Precautions: Your experience with a bee sting reaction is a stark reminder of the importance of personal safety. Always having protective gear and a smoker ready, regardless of the task's perceived simplicity or urgency, is wise. Your proactive approach to health management post-sting is commendable, and it's a good reminder for all of us to be prepared for allergic reactions, even if we've been stung before without issue. 7. Community Engagement: Lastly, the beekeeping community is an invaluable resource. Sharing your experiences, both the successes and challenges, contributes to our collective knowledge. Engaging with local beekeeping clubs or online forums can provide additional support, advice, and perhaps even hands-on assistance when facing challenges like equipment compatibility or hive health issues.

Love your beautiful hives! I think we have all taken a sting like that! New subscriber and looking forward to bee season! We just got socked with 7-8” snow, but were in bee yard just last Saturday. Hope you feel better soon!

Correction at 7:36 diatomaceous earth can harm bees, take care to only put on outside and around hive.

Hi there. . . Nothing wrong with 'own' Boxes ! I reclaim* lots of unused 'heat treated' Pallet Wood. (Pallets from monthly Chicken Feed Delivery !) Do Check* its not Chemical Treated Timber (bad for Bees.) Most Pallets here in the UK are Coloured Coded (Painted: Red Blue etc) And or have 'Branded' Burnt on Markings : re Heated, Chemical Dipped, Surface Spray Treatment etc. . .) So a lot of nice Pine Wood to Reclaim/Upcycle if you 'choose' the appropriate "Safe Wood*" version of said 'Pallets. Any waste bits of Timber : Use to make Frames ! Offcuts : add into your Smoker for Fuel. 👍 I use the Principle : Make the 'bigges' Box to need. Then anything smaller will fit into it ! 😁 Eg I have US Langstroth Hives, the UK Nationa Hives and the Tall stacking French 'Warre Hives.' All different in Sizes and associated Gear use 'Requirements' ! Don't be put off my different 'variants'. . . But instead : Think outside the "Box" . . . Eg : x2 Warre 'Frames' will easily 'nest' inside x1 Langstroth Brood Frame. Or two Warre Frames within x1 National Brood Frame. You can even make DIY Mating Nuc 'Frames' and these can be : X3 Within a Langstroth Brood Frame. X2 withing a UK National Brood Frame. And x1 within a 'Warre Frame'. Bit like "Russian nesting Babushka Dolls". Where one 'Frame Style' can be temporarily aded thru 'Twist Wire' (Wired by its top Bar) within its bigger Frame Cousin wise. . . You now have 'options'. Why you ask ??? : 👀 Well, a great Colony might 'be' the one you make Queen Cells from. You might 'carefully' cut out a Section of age related Eggs and Larva in its 'Comb' to Size. Rubber Band this say from a 'Beek Friend / Bee Club' 'Donor Hive' into your "Smaller Framed' DIY made Hive Bodies. And their associated Smaller Frames. Get it . . . It's a Win, win. 👍 You to might get that Wood Shop "Relative", to make you 2a small customed made mini 'Mating Nuc' or two, so you can 'make/take/mate' these QC's. Sell some on to other Beeks (make some Bee 'Kit' needs Money.) Or Donate on to the next Newbie Beek who has their first Hive : That too needs reigning in 'if their Colony' gets a bit angsty ! And needs, the help of a better Queen, to calm it down to being manageable once more. . . Hope this helps. 😎

Hi there. Like you little Hives there. 👍 I have similar Hives here in Scotland 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿 called "Warre Hives". And I have about the same 'Space' under the Roofs above a Crown Board. I would add a big Heap of Dry White Sugar around the 'feed' Hole. This sugar will attract a bit of 'moisture from the Air' and harden in Situ. That's no big Deal. Bees will 'take the Sugar' as they need : and any Water available in your local Environment (rain, droplets, dew) even the Hives internal Condensation will allow the Bees to make their own 2:1 type Syrup. This works really well through a long hard Winter. You can just prior to Spring (when Bees can do Cleansing Flight) add a bit of Pollen Powder Subsitute or a Pollen Patty. But as this is a 'Protein' source : its a Solid in the Bees gut (so don't feed this if your still to get Snow & Ice etc.) Or the Bees will have a Bathroom issue. . . Hope this helps. 😎 🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝 Happy Beekeeping 2024 🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝 Just Subbed too. . . Like your Style of Beekeeping Hope to see more of these little Hives. . . 👍

Yeah, getting stung aint no fun, lol

*Promo SM* 😋

Enjoyed watching

@The Bees' Meads when scanned the ground in the beginning it looked like one of the dead bees was a Queen

What model is your thermal camera?