Have you the same problem? New injektor? Than better?

I know this is an old post but I swear I have the same tick (2011 STI ) and I put my ear right to the driver side tire and it sounds like I need a new engine idk whAts going on lol

@@AstroSkool I’m in the same boat. It was kinda on and off between starts in my 2011 STi like one day it would do it and the next it wouldn’t but now it’s consistent and I’m always worried that I’m gonna brick my engine when I hear it

Did you ever figure out what it was? My 04 does the same ...

Shit I got a 2012 wrx mine did the same started ticking and got louder pulled over cel was on knock sensor I think bank one or something like that was on the highway so keeps on driving it kept getting louder threw it in n and it shut off I was rolling down a hill and tried to start it while I was coasting down never turned over after that the mains went:(

@@juanitochile2159the mains??

@@handlemytask Or source a variable speed motor

Maybe, maybe not. IR shows up on digital cameras quick. I have seen headers on engines look glowing on camera but dark to the human eye

@@berniedmj1 Watched the initial and a follow up. In the follow up video he resized the brass after annealing and got some very interesting results with that hydraulic seating tool he uses.

@@bucmeister7713 He certainly did! Erik discovered that annealing for 10, 15, and 20 seconds all had a seating force between 18 and 20 pounds. Sort of puts a crimp in those who think if the neck glows red the case is junk! LOL

The brass is totally fine

I would assume he used temp sensitive paint to time the drum rotation...

AH HA! My 04 Forester XT was making the same exact noise and it went away when it fully warmed up and got worse when it was cold. I checked the timing belt and sure enough it had notches and wear on it. Thanks!

Chris Handwerker glad I could help!! If you just readjust your guides you should be fine, unless the belt is REALLY chewed up

+270WeaMag That's what I thought too, that annealing requires immediate cooling, but the more videos I watch of annealing I am starting to think that I need to stop throwing my brass in cold water now.

+270WeaMag Actually, you want to let the metal air-cool slowly to anneal it. Quenching the metal (rapid cooling) usually hardens it, although in the case of brass I don't think it has much of an effect as brass is mostly hardened via working (hammering, stretching, flexing, etc).

+chillinator Quenching brass will not harden it at all, it's nothing like working with steel or other metals that can be heat hardened. The reason for quenching cases is to stop the heat from traveling down the case and softening the body. The processes I've seen that use high heat and quenching leave coloration like I see on production military brass so I assume it's a better process. The only way to really know what the effect is would be to test it for hardness.

+chillinator I found a video showing a factory production line annealer and it was several small torches in a line and no quenching that I could see, guess there's no need if the torches and exposure time is right.

Quenching or quickly cooling brass is not needed, other than to keep the heat from conducting down to the case head. Quenching does not hurt it or reharden it...like it hardens steel...