My pleasure. Follow along.

It’s OK if you’re using water-based cleaners and rinses but if you’re using solvent based Liquids you want to use a lid. I personally have had a long history of not cleaning pallet, forks, and balance wheels in ultrasonic machines. The exception to that is if it’s a relatively new movement. The reason is is that the ultrasonic waves can loosen up the shellac on vintage watches, which is primarily what I worked on . In your case, the hairspring pin came out, which will be pretty hard to find. Look for the video I did and polishing screws because at the end of that video I show you how to reinstall the pin.

​@watchrepairtutorials thank you, I'll check it the video, and fingers crossed!

Thank you! I’m glad you like the channel! It’s more for the guy starting out.

As long as you keep them flat, sure why not.

You're very welcome!

My pleasure. Follow along

You're welcome.

Yes and yes if You have the room.

You're welcome! It's great to hear you're finding my videos helpful and are enjoying the journey to a better workspace.

First let me say welcome. This unfortunately is one of the ways you learn when new. Not having all the information beforehand. The second thing to be learned here is that when using a water based system for cleaning parts, test your procedures on some that you don’t care about, like your practice movement. This includes your cleaner to water ratio, time cycles, rinse cycles and drying time and temperature. I suspect the black on your spring is caused by a reaction of the metal with the cleaner coupled with too long of a wash cycle. You really only need about five minutes . The black you are seeing on the spring can usually be polished off. As far as any real rust on any steel parts , soaking them in Evapo Rust for an hour or so then running them through your cycles again should help to remove rust. This may be followed up with a little bit of polishing if needed.

@@watchrepairtutorials Thank you for taking the time to respond. There are a couple of things here... and to be honest it's obvious - looking back - that putting the watch in water will cause corrosion... why for the life of me I didn't question it lol. It's unfortunate because I got overly confident on the first cheap watch I did and this second one is actually a family silver cased pocket watch that I thought I'd 'make better'. I will perservere and HUGE thank you for responding and I will invest in some evapo rust and give it a go. I think too... that being a bit time-poor, I was so excited with the few hours I had to put into a pocket watch that had been sitting there for months combined with the fact that I had a new toy... I got a bit carried away! Live and Learn. :)

I believe you are the second guy that uses the husky portable workbench. With the integrated lighting it sounds like a pretty good solution. Thanks for sharing that. I’m sure there are others. That’ll find that helpful.

You are so welcome!

Thank you for your support, my friend. It’s good to see you here again.

Thank you, George. I really try to make videos that actually help people who are just starting out. I know this video is not gonna get a lot of views, but if you don’t know, how do you know? Everyone starting out will not be ready to dedicate a bench or even a light fixture but when they’re ready, they will come back and use this video as a reference.

¡Gracias! I hope it helps.

I love that you found a solution that works for you, that’s awesome!

I appreciate you my friend. Thank you.😊

Hello, I am just checking the action of the wheel to make sure the click spring is working properly. I am remaking this entire series with upgraded camera and audio. Follow along.

Follow along. I’m remaking this entire series of videos.

What did you end up buying? It will be several months, probably next fall before I can start doing this in earnest. That is when I retire. This hobby is, by far, cheaper than the pilot tag I got in my 50's. And electricity and replacement screwdriver bits are a hell of a lot less expensive than nearly $150-$200 an hour I'd have to pay to fly again.

Wow. You are way ahead of me. What did you get?

Well, I’m sure you’re able to adjust it down to whatever brightness level you like so if you’re OK with it then there’s no problem.

@ I noticed some of those lamps come with a base instead of a clamp. Which type would you recommend or think would work better?

@ in my personal opinion, the less on the bench, the better. I like to clamp on .

@@watchrepairtutorials That makes a lot of sense. I hadn’t even thought about that. Which mine bench is already pretty crowded since I lack the space for a shop. Thank you for taking your time to write me back, Alex!

I would go with the newer one since it’s 2200 lm

@watchrepairtutorials Many thanks for your time . Appreciated 👍

My pleasure Carlos😀

Thanks for watching!

Without CCT is only one color option. With CCT is with color options.

@watchrepairtutorials that makes sense, thank you 😊

Hi Timothy, With an adjustment height bench you have the best of both worlds. I do use a microscope, and I have been working on a single height workbench that I had to customize the height so that it was at the right level from my eye pieces as I’m sitting in my chair. With an adjustable height bench, it should be pretty easy to lower raise the bench height to where you’ll be comfortable looking through your eye pieces. That’s one of the reasons that I’m switching over. I’ll typically be using it at a regular desk kit when I use my microscope but then if I’m using a staking set or something like that or I wanna get in close with a loop I could just raise it up to wherever I need. Easy, Peezy.

Exactly. Maybe you can add it to your future video about using a microscope. Thanks again for the excellent content.

@ you got it. I’ll definitely be talking about it in the series because I have a new microscope set up.

grazie, amico mio. È bello vederti di nuovo qui. Spero che vada tutto bene.

You are welcome my friend. Was the video dubbed in your language?

Tell me about the veterans watchmakers initiative.

@@watchrepairtutorials Yes. I'd like to know more. Not for me, but for a few vets I know that need a new path to follow.

That sounds excellent. I’m getting my base today and I’m actually also thought about adding casters to the bottom as well. I like the idea of being able to move it around.. Even though it’s not the cheapest option out there, the functionality it’s gonna be as close to what sold as professional desk, but then a fraction of the cost.

@@watchrepairtutorials its so much cheaper even if you get the better materials the price is 5 to six times cheaper then what the pros sell. If you want to go for better wood for the top its so nice i could use it as my dining room table LOL

@ I just discovered casters are not a good idea. Even with the ones that lock, the bench still moves around a little bit.

@@watchrepairtutorials mine is pretty stable been working on it for a while never had a motion problem i dont even lock the wheels i have it against a wall though so it doesnt move. i can send you pics if you want

youd have to send me an email to send it to i dont think i can send them through here can i

Let me know how the lighting works out.

Thanks for the encouragement. I hope you find the series helpful.

Hello my friend. I know you are an experienced watchmaker so thank you for the comment

Hi Tom, it’s always good to hear from you. I am actually setting up for it right now. It’s gonna be part of my online course

Well, obviously it depends on how much space you have but I think 48 inches is more than enough for most people.

Always nice having a supportive wife

Yes, the setting lever is not held with a screw then you push the post in order to raise it to release the stem.

@@watchrepairtutorials in my case where the post is already mounted, do you disassemble the setting lever, so that one can have the post separate from the lever, or not -(again the post is not a screw)-? in your case you were mounting the two , post and lever as two pieces.

Look for Otto Frei . Com . He’s an American supplier, but I’m sure those are available in many other places.

LOL. Maybe I’ll start adding them to the end of the video.

I'm glad you are enjoying it. I hope this series helps.

Keeping food out is a bigger problem. 😂

Hey man, how are you. I'm pretty happy with the one I ended up with. Super bright, right color tone and wide.

Why, because I got tired of dealing with customers. I have a handful of customers that I still do work for and you really don't need to keep up skills after a while.

I know what you mean. The one I use as my office desk has a top made of 5/8" pieces of pressed board. The new frame is coming tomorrow and it has a high weight limit which I need to support not only the butcher block top but my microscope as well.

Yes I did. Did it work?

Always great info Alex!! My problem is accumulating too many watches now.. 🥴

I can’t stop looking at it now 😂😂😂

@ Time to look at the ones you never wear. I had about 100 wristwatches at one time. Now I have a dozen.

@@seanrogan7391 LOL. Sorry😂

You are welcome. It’s hard to say when the changes are small. What factory made the watch.

@@watchrepairtutorials Thanks for the reply! It's a 6R35, so I'm assuming Malaysia, Philippines or possibly China, it's an Seiko SPB297J1. From what I've read around forums at least, do I get the impression they are not made in Japan anymore. I've adjusted the rate on some 7S and 4R movements with success, not touching the regulator pin or support stud. After learning from you about the etachron system, I have decided to get a Weishi 1000 timegrather and an NH36 movement to try my hand at, before I try my hand on watches I care a lot about. Seems it will be a serious challenge adjusting the regulator pin without a microscope, a strong loop might be a help at the very least?? This watch I have that now is running a little slow, I bought as a momentum for making it through my mechanical engineering bachelor's degree after wanting it badly for a few years. Also the degree has been an eventful and very special time in my life, and so the watch does mean a lot to me. So I've decided I will let a watchmaker adjust it, as I don't want to risk doing it myself at this point with my very limited experience, also with it being more than twice as expensive as any other watch I own, I still got another degree in front of me, so I am careful with how much I spend. But I will try my hand at some loose movements where I find the time, it's very fascinating to me how these small parts are manufactured, with such accuracy! Any idea what could be useful information to the watchmaker? It's a Seiko service center, so I guess they are likely to start with demagnetizing, all through maybe not if it is running slow? Either way, thank you for making these in detail tutorials and guides!