The Secrets of Watch Regulation

[@bolgerguide]

The most in depth video on using a timegrapher to regulate a hairspring I've ever seen on KZbin. Great work Alex!

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Hello Mr Bolger. I hope it made sense. The data will set you freeeeeee.😜

[@carlosgomis9033]

Honor and admiration for your work and explanations. Thank you

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Thank you for the kind words, my friend.

[@whatsstefon]

Thank you for explaining this. Often the Delta rate is not thought about at all. Like you said, folks aim for a 0s/d rate with the dial down position and post online for instant satisfaction and kudos from fellow amateurs. But it's not the actual regulation of the watch. The adjustment of the etachron is often ignored too. I recently posted an old Seiko I restored on FB and the comments were mostly as to how I was able to get good amplitude in addition to a good rate. There are many tips and techniques to getting the most from these cheap movements. Earlier on, in one of your other videos I learnt the value of ensuring you apply the same amount of oil to both capped jewels in the shock protection of a movement. This too gives you a more stable and similar beat error and amplitude in various positions, without straying too far from the end result. Thank you Alex. Your videos are brilliant.

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Sounds like you watched the videos all the way through. You would be amazed how many questions I get from people about something that I already covered in the video . in other words, lotta people have short attention spans and they jump all over the place and they miss those little nuggets here and there. Everything I say, for the most part, is well thought out in advance.

[@whatsstefon]

@@watchrepairtutorials I have indeed because I’m continuously learning, and in some cases more often than not, the ideas you illustrate are either a reminder or reinforcement of something I have already learnt. Either way, it’s a win, and I thank you for the effort you go to. I have been a subscriber since you had the funny named channel to begin with that I assume you changed to be taken more seriously and also for possible ranking in KZbin.

[@watchrepairtutorials]

@@whatsstefon oh wow you have been around a while. That's funny. You know that when I first started the channel. It was called "it's about effing time". I was moderating a couple subs on Reddit. I was getting tired of people asking the same old questions over and over again, so I decided to make a couple short little videos that I could refer people to to answer their question. That led me down the road to try to Create a channel for informational purposes similar to what Mark did watch repair channel but the cover topics that weren't being covered by anybody. I was honestly pretty surprised to see my subscriber account increasing as well as it was because I wasn't really doing entertainment videos it was all about fill in the holes where information was lacking. Then my wife told me if you're gonna dedicate this much time to it then buddy you better figure out a way to make a couple dollars because you are not making anything on KZbin ad revenue. So that's when I started building the watch repair course and the rest is history. I appreciate you for hanging in with me for the last couple of years.

[@whatsstefon]

@@watchrepairtutorialsyep. Been here as one of the first subs. Love your channel. And yes, you are spot on, you covered info that I didn’t even see in Mark’s course. I’m about to consider paying for his Chronograph course. And I have considered your courses though I will be honest, I haven’t looked at them in detail yet with my apprehension being that I don’t want to pay for a course where I will double up on knowledge and skills at a basic level. Chronograph movements are something that I am yet to play with. I’ll definitely look into your courses more closely to see what is on offer, as I am running solo down here in Australia. No watchmaker wants to hire a middle aged apprentice, and I cannot afford to fly to Switzerland for training. I have a job and mortgage here. Never mind the fact that these days, I see most watchmakers making very little income. It’s still a side hustle for me, and will likely remain that way to keep my personal enjoyment of the hobby.

[@ashedinthewoods]

@@watchrepairtutorialspeople with short attention spans… my advice to them would be… either work on patience and endurance, or don’t get into watch fiddling. Because patience is the one thing one either learns, or things will go haywire (and flying) very fast. Don’t ask me how I know 😂

[@JeffreyHalsak]

This was such a excellent tutorial!! Thank you for sharing this. I thoroughly enjoyed watching and I learned an incredible amount of information!! Keep the videos coming!!

[@tomholloway7566]

Thanks Alex, I’ve been trying to do it your way for a while though I go for beat error first. I am working on a regulation and testing process for myself to include simulated wearing too.

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Hi Tom. You are correct. Correct beat error first. On that one movement that had the same 1.0 in all positions, I got so excited. I just overlooked it initially. 🙄

[@mlsproject]

Still the best watchmaking video channel on KZbin. I learn so much from these, Alex. Thanks very much! For me, an amateur / hobbyist, I've approached "regulation" by getting the beat error where I'm happy (sub 1.0 ms) with it then working on the rate. I've been really happy with the watches that I've done this way. As an aside, those TMI NH series movements are pretty damn good out of the box, in my experience too. I've had good results with a Seagull ST3621 also.

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Thank you very much, sir. You're absolutely right. Beat error first then rate. Honestly, on the first one I was so excited to see those numbers that I didn't even glance at the beat rate, which is normally not that much off. If anything, it was lesson in why you want to do the beat rate first because if you do it after you dial it in , adjusting the rate at that point is going to cancel out the adjustments you just made.

[@normanrehme3836]

Alex, this video and your book, The Secrets of for Adjusting Watch Rates, has elevated by understanding of regulation by at least 10 times. Just yesterday a tip from the book and commentary from this video and your others on regulation helped me learn solve a long perplexing issue with vertical rates. Thanks for putting it together. Now I'm going to read it again to learn more about equalizing horizontal rates.

[@watchrepairtutorials]

hello Norman, That's awesome to hear. things will really start making sense and coming together as you apply some of the knowledge I'm laying down.

[@TimTellsTime]

Excellent video and very well explained through each step. Really makes me appreciate the Etachron system compared to the vintage stuff I normally work on.

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Hey buddy, Yeah, the Etachron was a big advancement in watch manufacturing and now you have free sprung balances, which is another big step. But old vintage American pocket watches just so damn pretty.🤣 But even though they're different, the principles are still the same. Deltas are deltas.

[@leowatkins3718]

Good day Sir and many thanks. I have recently been striping, cleaning and lubricating the new movements (Seiko 35/36). I can confirm the lubrication from the factory does vary from " why did I strip this" to "was this movement actually lubricated?" I found it helpful to practice and learn skills on a movement that wasn't worn out (7009's for instance) I've learned a lot from your tutorials, my favourites includes "looking after your tweezers" = saves your knees.

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Hello Leo, That's awesome to hear. I agree that learning on new movements help you understand the way things should work so when you're trying to fix something, it's more apparent what the problem is. Good job, my friend

[@johnvaluk1401]

Thank you Alex for another great and informative lesson.

[@watchrepairtutorials]

It's always good to hear from you, John. Thanks for checking in.

[@johnvaluk1401]

@@watchrepairtutorials busy summer. Hopefully getting back into watch work later this month.

[@watchrepairtutorials]

@@johnvaluk1401 it has been a busy summer has it. Well, good to have you back.

[@williamking6019]

Great job on the video big help thanks again 👍

[@watchrepairtutorials]

No problem Mr King. 👍

[@steve1811uk]

Thank you. Just made myself a little regulator pusher from a piece of brass rod, just like yours. The days of using my tweezers for that will soon be long gone.

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Nice. I love these little brass rods.

[@icyhot9783]

Absolutely fantastic video. I've been struggling with why some of my Seiko movements are so far off, even after "regulating" them and this video has shown me the likely culprit. Yup, poor lubrication may well be the issue also, but I'm definitely checking against what I've learned here. Looks like I need another tool too....

[@watchrepairtutorials]

That's awesome. I hope this video can shed some light on what sometimes can be a very frustrating problem.

[@asmobrat]

How can we do without your help Alex, especially people needing an alternative job like me... I have learned and achieved many things with your help... Thank you very much ..... 🙏🙏🙏

[@watchrepairtutorials]

I appreciate your kind words brother. It makes all the difference in the world..👍

[@WatchWithMike]

Excellent, Alex! You helped me understand deltas and means much better. Kudos! 😁

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Hello Mike. Again, I would point out that deltas can be figured out No matter what type of timing machine you're using. Keep up the good work, my friend

[@felizuleta]

Very cool vid. Thanks for sharing 🙂

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Thanks for watching my friend.

[@Seftdelmer]

Superb, thank you for the effort you put into your videos. It's really encouraging to see an expert being able to explain concepts so clearly.

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Many thanks!

[@educarmar]

Excellent video - best watch channel in youtube! I would like him to explain the reasons why the next two observations: 1.- Amplitude drop on the 1st watch. 2.- changes on the relative rates on the 2nd watch. They were way better before making the regulation. My theory for 1. is that the effective length of the hairspring is shorter and affects amplitude. For 2. I beleive has to do with the centering of the hairspring due to imperfect shaping of the terminal curve.

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Thanks for sharing!

[@dredd3964]

Best explanation on YT.

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Glad it was helpful!

[@rasoolbuxlashari4730]

Thank you so much sir , you are amazing teacher, i am just watch enthusiastic person, from Pakistan, love the way you explain, i watched all of your videos, learned a lot. Please don't stop making videos.

[@watchrepairtutorials]

I appreciate you so much, my friend. Good will from the US.

[@trieupham3524]

Thank you for your video, sir!

[@watchrepairtutorials]

You are most welcome.

[@ashedinthewoods]

It’s just midnight, and I feel the strong urge to set up my time grapher and randomly regulate one of my Seikos. Nice one! 👍

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Lol that's funny. I do enjoy playing around with it myself. It's even better when you don't have to do it. You just do it because you want to.🙄

[@patmost9982]

This is awesome information!

[@watchrepairtutorials]

I’m glad you found it helpful.

[@L.G-c7e]

Fantastic video, Alex! Many, many thanks😀

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Thank you too my friend.

[@N7492]

Excellent, clear information. Thanks, Alex.

[@watchrepairtutorials]

My pleasure. I hope it can help in some way.

[@nitennr1087]

Absolutely brilliant. Will be re-watching.

[@watchrepairtutorials]

did you learn anything new?

[@nitennr1087]

Yes. Ive just replaced a hairspring and was struggling to get anywhere near a good reading but, now armed with this knowledge and experimenting with turning the stud, im at +3s/d, 240 amp and 0.5 BE. My amps are too low but, I'm putting that down to my mainspring barrel clean, lubrication and assembly practice. @watchrepairtutorials

[@watchrepairtutorials]

@@nitennr1087 that's awesome. When you said you replace the hairspring, did you replace the balance complete or just the hairspring itself?

[@nitennr1087]

@watchrepairtutorials just the hairspring, I broke a few back when I'd just started, today I fitted two new hairsprings making two balance wheel assemblies. I am testing them this week to see how good they'll be, early signs are promising though.

[@watchrepairtutorials]

@@nitennr1087 i'm all for testing so go for it but let me drop a couple things on you. Balance wheels and hairsprings are matched together, using a process called the omega metric. The balance wheel is tested for its "moment of inertia" and the hairspring is tested for its "couple value". when they are tested, they are put into one of 20 different categories based on its value. Manufacturers know which category of hairspray goes best with which category of balance wheel in order for them to vibrate at the correct frequency. If the two mismatched it will make it literally impossible to get a good result. This is the primary reason why balance wheels and hairsprings are replaced as a set. but like I said, I love experimentations and would love to see what you come up with.

[@harrycee656]

I have created a spreadsheet with positional weighing tuned to my weekly life. This helps me get a new watch or new movement with the initial setting. Then I track on an app to see how far from +1s/d we are at. Then I put it on the timegrapher to see what the crown down measurements are. Then I make a crown down adjust up or down equal to the how much we are off from +1s/d based on on wrist accuracy. It's an offset adjustment that matters most since all movements are a little different.

[@watchrepairtutorials]

I find this interesting , but most people are not going to go to this length. Timing machines take a snapshot of the movement at a particular time. Wearing the watch on your wrist and considering the positions it is in during YOUR day will always be more accurate when dealing with low to middle quality movements. Many movements can keep time much tighter than their published rate tolerances, but most are not going to be able to maintain a +1 s/d average . This is primarily due to the way the balance wheel and hairspring are matched together during the manufacturing process.

[@LM74-o7y]

Thank you for putting up excellent videos. You make me a better tinkerer

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Glad you like them! Thank you

[@uniqname4sure]

Great video as always. Thanks!

[@watchrepairtutorials]

You bet! Thanks for being here. I appreciate you.🤙

[@muhdhadi91]

Worth a million views

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Thank you. I hope this gives you a better understanding of regulation.

[@chronospeedster]

Hi Alex, i can't thank you enough for this video, is brilliant! I wanna share with you this: i bought a Lorus watch with an Y676 movement inside. Well, I AM SHOCKED! Wanna know why? Basically i'm testitng this watch everyday and it lose NOTHING! It's so precise and i still can't believe. Comparing and noted every single hour, still syncronized with the atomic watch. So i did a test with an app simulate the chronographer and this is my results: DU 0.3 (BE) 12 (secs) 250 (amplitude) DD 0.2 (BE) 4 (secs) 255 (amplitude) CU 0.6 (BE) 5( secs) 230 (amplitude) CD 0.2 (BE) -4 (secs) 228 (amplitude) CL 0.4 (BE) -4 (secs) 231 (amplitude) So, according to your software, my watch has a Delta Rate: 16 and a Means Rate: 2,6. So, do you think still need to be regulated or not?

[@watchrepairtutorials]

My software? How it keeps Time on your wrist is the most important factor, so no I wouldn’t touch it.

[@chronospeedster]

@@watchrepairtutorials Yeah, when i said "your software" i mean the method your software tell you to know the delta and much more info about the movement. I'm so sorry, english is not my main language and 100% i said something wrong :D Anyway thank you so much for your advice as usual. Take care amico mio ;)

[@watchrepairtutorials]

@ no problem my friend. Your English is much better than mine. 😊

[@drevyek1785]

For watches with a fixed hairspring stud, how do you adjust the beat error? I have a couple pocket watches (Waltham 1890, Omega cal 19) with fixed studs and very high beat errors. The former also has adjustable banking pins. Thanks!

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Ahhhhhhh, you have to turn the collet on the hairspring. No this can be very fiddly and hairspring destroying if you've never done it before. I have a video coming out within the next week on a technique that will make it much easier for you, especially if you've ever done it before so don't do anything until you watch that video.

[@steve1811uk]

Bear in mind that the rate will probably be slower on wrist by around 5 SPD when compared with the rate at room temperature. That is typical Seiko behaviour and a characteristic of the metals used in the hairspring and balance wheel. I have found that ETA 2788/2789 also has temperature variance but the opposite way, faster when warm.

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Strange that body temperature would be affecting the rate that much. It would not be unusual for the rate to differ slightly from timing machine to wrist due to real world conditions wearing conditions. I'll have to look into this more.

[@hipphipphurra77]

Excellent Video. Are there any rules (of thumb) how the individual (5/6) position errors can be adjusted more or less independent of each other? Are the screws of old type screw-balances of any help for individual adjustment?

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Not really. It all comes down to how well the balance wheel and hairspring are matched up, how well the HS was pinned to the collet, if the hairspring is centered in between the pins and how straight the regulator pins are. and it's like I said in the video, unless you're dealing with the highest grade movements crown right theoretically is going to be the worst because of the natural faults of the oscillator. Since only the vertical positions are affected by poising errors, that can be tightened up if you have timing screws. This is called Dynamic poising and is covered in my watchmaking course.

[@patriot_III_tinman]

excellent, thanks

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Glad you liked it! Hope it helps in some way as I am to a Patriot. 🫵

[@Al-po2oh]

Yo bro your beard is getting very long. Almost ready for ZZ Top. Love the videos thanks again.

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Getting ready to play Santa Claus at Christmas for the grandkids.

[@bolgerguide]

Beard needs to be a little longer, but put some sunglasses on him and a suit and he could pass for "Sharp Dressed Man" lol

[@damianmomot7164]

Exactly what I was looking for! Have one doubt though - how exactly regulator pins should be adjusted on a moving balance? Should we just try to eyeball it that theres even space on both sides?

[@watchrepairtutorials]

I did an another video on adjusting the ETAchron regulator, that glows more into removing the spring from the balance cock and then re-centering the spring and making that adjustment. So yes, the first thing you would want to do if your servicing an older movement or you've replaced the balance complete is to center the hairspring between the pins. Since this is a brand new movement, we're assuming that that is already been done . Now, if I was having problems with the Delta or closing the gap between vertical and horizontal positions, then I might look to make sure the hairspring was centered but because the Delta rate was good in these examples there's no need to be concerned about centering. Just remember, the Delta rate is your friend .

[@KrimNL10DenZ]

Amazing video, as always! I always learn so much from these videos! One question.. You mentioned the program you use to display the microphone data, which is certainly on the list to get. What is the microphone you're using? Is it automated for the different positions? As always, thanks!

[@watchrepairtutorials]

No this is an old mic that was retrofitted to plus into a usb. It is not automated . There's actually a guy in our private sub who made an adapter to plug a standard wishei mic into to take it into a computer. Hit me up by email before you buy it for details on how to get a 20% discount of the cost.

[@carloscarvalhido2424]

Great work showing this to us, amateurs. Too bad the audio is off in my PC most of the time. Thanks.

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Sorry about that

[@SH-zh3nk]

Great video, now I just need one on phasing and regulating an Accutron for a 1.55v battery... are you interested?

[@watchrepairtutorials]

lol. I'm not a Accutron guy.

[@simeoncox566]

Great video Alex. What can you do if you don't have Etachron regulation and you have a 'boot' and fixed pin? Just rotate the boot slightly to widen / close the gap?

[@watchrepairtutorials]

The principles are the same with older style pins. But adjusting those style pins is a whole different video. You can make slight adjustments to the pin in or out, but once you go over certain point, you actually have to put two bends in the pin to keep them parallel. I actually just made a video not too long ago where I made a regulator pin adjustment tool

[@bolgerguide]

It made perfect sense. The Theory of Regulating Hairsprings by Alexander Hamilton is a book i think. One has to attend the Geneva school for 2 years to learn what you just taught in 38 minutes 😂

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Well, I don't know about that but thank you my friend.

[@amazingchess2136]

Thanks

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Welcome

[@cristimorarescu2701]

Awesome lesson, Alex. What tool is the one you use to rotate the brass pin on the regulator arm? Many thanks and good luck!

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Here you go. s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_mO0aEq4

[@Supercruze]

Outside of regulator pin adjustments, can the flatness of the hairspring affect the delta rate?

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Oh hell yea. Tons of stuff can affect deltas.

[@2manysigns]

Cool beans . saving for a scope .

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Great investment my friend.

[@briankulp9597]

quick ? im new to watch restoration the movement im working on is ans as 1802-03 it run holds good time but stop when i install the seconds hand . not sure what it is. i reinstall the balance to get it to start runing again wondering if you had any ideal i could chk thank you brian kulp

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Feel free to send me an email. I am not sure I am understanding what you are doing.

[@joemaniaci]

So what happened to alter the numbers starting at 15:40? Relubrication?

[@watchrepairtutorials]

The numbers are 1540 are the same as the numbers just before the transition. There was no lubrication done in this video.

[@nitennr1087]

Hi Alex. I've just replaced a balance wheel and hairspring and the delta is bad. I am really struggling with this, when you say to turn the regulator stud until the hairspring has a hairsprings width either side of the pins, do you mean that the hairspring passes straight through the middle?

[@watchrepairtutorials]

So I need to know first whether or not you replaced it as a balance complete or did you just put a new hairspring on the balance staff. Yes the hairspring should be centered in between the regulator pins. The hairspring width on either side is just a general guideline and it can change slightly depending on the situation. If you need more help you should just email me.

[@nitennr1087]

@watchrepairtutorials it's as a balance complete. I set the regulator stud so that the hairspring runs straight through the middle with equal space either side. It did seem to work as in your example.

[@watchrepairtutorials]

@@nitennr1087 👍

[@markus98sb]

I was wondering how are the vertical and horizontal positions adjusted in a movement with a free sprung balance without timing pins?

[@watchrepairtutorials]

@@markus98sb since the hairspring length on a free sprung balance is fixed and exact, there is no regulator right so the only way to adjust the rate is through the inertia of the balance wheel. This is essentially the same thing you do when you dynamically poise a balance wheel that has timing screws. You adjust the timing screws which changes the inertia balance wheel making it heavier or lighter. On a free sprung balance the inertia is changed by the adjustment screws on the balance wheel. With that said, It's unlikely that it would need to be adjusted unless somebody fooled around with it not knowing what they're doing They don't just become out of adjustment.

[@markus98sb]

@@watchrepairtutorials sorry I meant to ask, as you have shown in this video you can reduce the difference between the horizontal and vertical rates by widening or narrowing the distance between the timing pins. But would you do such adjustments without timing pins?

[@watchrepairtutorials]

@@markus98sb that's the beauty of the free sprung balance. The fact that you don't have regulator pins affecting the vertical rates. You get more consistent rates between horizontal and vertical positions . Obviously, you would expect some difference because gravity also affects how springs work but it should be minimal.

[@weerobot]

Cool...

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Thanks...

[@sonlyme4445]

Great explanation of what is a complex and multifaceted process. One thought. That custom brass rod you use to lengthen/shorten the hairspring - why has no one ever fabricated a version of this that slots into the movement holder and pushes or pulls via a fine thread adjuster? How lovely it would be to turn a large dial with the movement being timed live - so one can see and gauge the effects of one's efforts. It may just be me, but the finesse and fine motor control required when getting close is often beyond me. Too little - too much - too little - etc etc ad infinitum 🤣

[@watchrepairtutorials]

I think that most people who do this with any regularity are comfortable enough not to require anything special. You can regulate the movement with it in the mic stand. I prefer making the moves under a microscope because I can see the smaller movements I make.

[@sonlyme4445]

@@watchrepairtutorials While I need a microscope just to set the hands nowadays 😂

[@mauriziodimattia583]

Dove si compra la chiavettaper regolare?Non riesco a trovarla

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Worst watch supply houses have them. Where are you?

[@mauriziodimattia583]

@watchrepairtutorials Italia amico mio

[@eduardomiranda5719]

Can i find this tool for regulator pins on Aliexpress? Im not finding it.

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Here you are. s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_mthy3bK

[@eduardomiranda5719]

@@watchrepairtutorials thank you Alex!

[@watchrepairtutorials]

@@eduardomiranda5719 you are welcome brother.🤘

[@roberthodges5272]

Your delta rate is a measure of deviation or variability. The delta rate is the extreme spread of rate values, it only uses two data points, the highest and lowest. Wouldn't the standard deviation of the rates from all the positions be a better measure of deviation? You could also go nuts and sample at not only those five positions and intermediate positions. BTW I love your videos

[@watchrepairtutorials]

SD and other statistical measures are more commonly used in scientific trials, such as chronometer trials where a watch's rate stability is measured over days or months. In practical bench watchmaking, simpler measures like the delta is often more useful as an indicator on the overall condition of the movement. The goal remains to get the positional rates as close to each other as possible and all that information available in how the deltas' are interpreted.

[@A_A_Ron]

was just bugging my experienced watchmaker friend about this yesterday!

[@watchrepairtutorials]

And what did he say?

[@A_A_Ron]

talked about dif positions, mean and delta . but didn’t get into etachron tools for stud manipulation :) def gonna need one or a couple assuming they have dif diameters

[@watchrepairtutorials]

@@A_A_Ron I did a previous video on Etachron regulators. You can easily search for the tool online and there's only one size so that makes it easy .

[@A_A_Ron]

@@watchrepairtutorials thanks! i love your videos. instrumental in my improvement , thank you so much for making them! i’ll go check it out

[@mikemcnair01]

@@A_A_RonBerg 30081-TETC and EETC are the ones I have Aaron. 😉

[@rjp7164]

Apologies but I'm confused. If I'm holding up a watch in front of my face so I can see the dial with "crown left" then the watch is upside down so how can this be one of the most important positions?

[@watchrepairtutorials]

That's OK. You have to think about how the watch sits on your wrist. When you look at your watch, the 12 o'clock is pointing up in the crown is pointing to the right, correct ? The watch is in that position very little . People don't walk around, staring at their watch. It's an unnatural way to hold your wrist other than a quick glance. Normally, your wrist is turned the other way so you are looking at the buckle. In this position, the number six is facing up. If someone was standing in front of you, looking at the dial of your watch with the number six pointing up and you asked them what side of the watch is the crown , they would say it's on the left. That's the Crown left as viewed from the dial. It doesn't matter that the watches upside down. If it's helpful, watchmakers typically don't use the term Crown left Crown right Crown up Crown down . They call out 12 up, 3 up, 6 up 9 up. So from that perspective, dial up is the same, 6 and 9 are the two most important positions. That is unless you walk around with your arm pointing up all day or you're staring at the dial all day long.

[@rjp7164]

@@watchrepairtutorials Got it! - many thanks for taking the time to explain 👍

[@백수좋아-b4v]

What is this program?

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Etimer

[@boydsargeant7496]

Great one alex! Often starting with beat rate is good, but if seeing a big regulator pins gap would you do that then beat error and then the rest? Also is dial up, 6 up and 9 up the most common real world 3 positions? Ta

[@watchrepairtutorials]

No. You always want to start with the beat error. Honestly, on the first one I was so excited when I saw the numbers I completely missed the beat error but just decided to run with it. Yes, dial up, 6 up or crown left and 9 up or crown down. There's another position the Swiss like to use which is basically 7 1/2 up. Evidently their research says that the movement is in this position 30% of the time on average.

[@boydsargeant7496]

@@watchrepairtutorials thanks Alex!

[@boydsargeant7496]

Hi. I’ve been re watching your videos. Have you done a regulating video on an vintage watch that has old pins which is more complex to adjust? Ta.

[@watchrepairtutorials]

@@boydsargeant7496 Hi Boyd, Not yet but the principles are the same.

[@robertmacpherson9044]

There seems to be a sound issue in the video. After the intro, all the sound is in one speaker and the level is low. You might see if you can fix that and re-release the video.

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Thanks for pointing that out. 👍

[@bolgerguide]

I didn't notice any sound quality issues.

[@Mars-zgblbl]

At 1:47 it went to one side only. I worked around the issue by changing my device to mono audio output

[@Smk_Online_market-FACEBOOK]

❤❤❤🇳🇵

[@watchrepairtutorials]

🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘

[@JeffreyHalsak]

This was such a excellent tutorial!! Thank you for sharing this. I thoroughly enjoyed watching and I learned an incredible amount of information!! Keep the videos coming!!

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Thanks! Glad you found it helpful. Check out my playlist of videos.

[@JeffreyHalsak]

@ I have a cheaper time grapher. The Weishi 1000. Any chance you can do a video either using it to regulate a watch or just explaining how you would use it especially for attempting to regulate in multiple positions?

[@watchrepairtutorials]

@@JeffreyHalsak hi Jeffrey. I’ll put it on the list and see what I can do. The principles are the same, no matter what machine you use. With yours, you just have to write down the numbers.