Regulation SECRETS Every Watchmaker Should Know

[@bolgerguide]

I'm so happy you are on the internet Alex. Knowledge is priceless.

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Hey buddy, I wonder how many people slept them selves in the floor head and said “ oh”

[@bolgerguide]

@@watchrepairtutorials Learning can be frustrating without a mentor. Ive done more than slap myself in the forehead lol. Like the first time i lost a jewel.

[@pieterjlansbergen6988]

All of a sudden so many things I didn’t understand start making sense to me! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Man that’s great to hear. That was the idea. Once you know it all seems so simple.

[@rossjackson3670]

What can I say? Phew! Took my breathe away. I didn't believe it, but here goes. Can you believe that I actually understood, probably 95% of what you said. I don't have the skill or the tools to achieve what you said to do, but understanding is a great feeling. The more in depth you have taken us, the easier to understand it is. I never thought I would be able to understand the technical skills you have explained. I read the transcript and did not understand virtually anything of what you were saying. Verbally and visually, it is so easy. Thank you Alex.

[@watchrepairtutorials]

You have been conditioned😄. You have been around me for a while now Ross Maybe some of it is rubbing off.

[@WatchWithMike]

Wow, that was a terrific demonstration using the dry balance jewel. You are a master at explaining the subtle watchmaking techniques and concepts that make this discipline so interesting! Thanks Alex!

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Glad it was helpful Mike. I think this will open some eyes on regulation

[@watchrepairtutorials]

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[@neilfrost9438]

Thanks Alex for your great work in presenting all this experience so clearly. Just tried to round off the ends of a balance staff with my oh so cheap Bergeon 5482. Watch running poorly DU. I used a little 9010 and my rotary tool on lowest speed. Managed to destroy the pivot in a few seconds ! Suggest you go very lightly guys and maybe hold the balance in your fingers to feel the slight pressure needed. I had the balance in a holding plate on the bench which clearly gave too much pressure. I now get to practice balance staff replacement which will no doubt improve my skills. Happy days.

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Yes, holding it in your fingers is definitely the way to go.

[@think2023]

Have to add a big thank you for your time and effort with these videos. SUPER informative and helpful

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Glad you like them!

[@ODPwcca]

Your logic makes so much sense, Alex, it intuitively adds to the understanding of regulating. Now to find the right tools in the near future :) Thank you so much for sharing your wisdom once again!

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Thank you my friend. Understanding the concept is what’s important. There is one more way to manipulate rates that I will be sharing with you

[@manuelfresco6879]

I just discovered your channel a few days ago I and am realy smashed how good it is. Exactly the kind of informations I was looking for before I will start to open my first (cheap and banged) watch to have a look inside. Thank you so much, you deserve a lot more follower.

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Welcome aboard!

[@MyRetroWatches]

You certainly have a great way of explaining things. Currently on the hunt for a Jacot tool. I have a watch that runs okay (ish) in 3 positions but pendant down it slows by 10 seconds + I’ve not been able to find the issue and have now have accepted that unless I get better at this I will not figure out the issue.

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Hey my man, don’t discount your skills. What’s the caliber and what are the rates and amplitude of the six positions. You can email me if it’s easier.

[@MyRetroWatches]

@@watchrepairtutorials a very long video will be released today.. toe parts disassembly and then assembly. It’s a Ricoh 61 and it’s a very odd layout for a movement. If I leave it long enough on the TG it actually settles but it’s not perfect.

[@davidlowe4970]

Hi Alex, thank you so much for sharing your years of experience and knowledge, and make it enjoyable to watch, cheers mate. ⌚🛠🖒

[@watchrepairtutorials]

My pleasure David.

[@Supercruze]

Thank you for sharing your knowledge of matchmaking Alex. . I learn something new i can put into practice with every vid.

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Hey man, did it make sense?

[@Cooodi1]

You have so much good videos for us new to watch making. Its like when i get a new tool, like timegrapher i watch your videos how to get everything out of it. And it still leaves me some thing to figure out of my self. What is best part of watchmaking. 😊

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Glad you like them!

[@albertmeyer8983]

The F and F2 are fantastic! I love them both. My F has a different shutter sound. The F2 has a slight “ping” noise.

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Thanks for sharing!

[@keithstarling8244]

very interesting, beyond my capabilities but I understand the theory. Thank you for another great video Alix.

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Keith, But at least you have a better understanding of what’s going on at the balance wheel

[@normanrehme3836]

Another excellent video of knowledge and concepts. Thanks.

[@watchrepairtutorials]

My pleasure Norman. Did it make sense?

[@normanrehme3836]

@@watchrepairtutorials yes, very clear, well written and delivered.

[@phillipmaciver3226]

Great mechanical logic well explained. Thank you..

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Glad it was helpful!

[@gayle4s383]

thank you. Great Teacher, speaker.

[@watchrepairtutorials]

You're very welcome!

[@martenbroocks2661]

Hey Alex, thank you so much for putting all of this out there! Quick question, is there supposed to be backspin in the gear train, even without any lubrication?

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Yea. Are you doing it with the barrel installed?

[@horstb29]

Thank you for sharing your valuable knowledge

[@watchrepairtutorials]

My pleasure. Hope it helps in sometime!

[@eugenerutenberg5281]

Hello. I watch all of your videos and learn a lot. I have a breitling watch 1950 with as 1130 movement. I serviced it my self about a year ago, and it worked great(i have a witsh time grapher). I wind it occasionally, since i do not wear all the time. Today i noticed that the watch started to gain a lot with in the same day. a opened it, then put it on a grapher, and cant get 18000 bit, it shows 36000. Sometimes, when i adjust the bal. wheel, it get 18000 for a short wile, and a good beat err, but it jumps allover the place. I had similar with another watch and i fixed it by adjusting a hear spring within a pin, which stabilized all the parameters. What else can create 36000.? bad spring? (i put a new spring when i serviced it). Not emough pallet stones oil.? does the bal. pin needs to touch the hear spring or not? It did not effect anything ether way. Any idea? Thank you,

[@watchrepairtutorials]

I think there’s something else going on either with your microphone, interference or your timegrapher as it’s impossible for an 18,000 beat per hour watch to change to any other frequency. Basically, the frequency is counting how many times the balance wheel rotates back-and-forth. Mechanically nothing in your watch can change that.

[@JDRichard]

You don’t seem to put any oil on the burnisher. Is there an issue and was it intentional and grade video by the way?

[@watchrepairtutorials]

I didn't talk about it because I went into what I use in the previous video, but you can see the oil on the burnisher.

[@JDRichard]

@@watchrepairtutorials thanks for the quick reply

[@leowatkins3718]

Another "can't watch once" video. Brilliant. I was wondering is there a particular watch movement you respect or enjoy? Maybe to wear or simply to work on?

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Hamilton 4992b is probably my favorite but any of the Railroad grade pocketwatches are awesome. Lately I have been taking mediocre movements ya like the st36 and pt5000 and upgrading the adjustments on them for fun

[@michaelmmontuori]

Great video .. thanks Alex

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Thank you my friend. Thank you

[@AP_S]

Amazing advice for the rest of us. Please, could you tell me, in your experience, what would cause a 3-year old Sellita SW200-1 being hard to hand wind and rotor spinning during hand winding?....other than that, the watch is very accurate and has a healthy amplitude of 270 and .2ms beat error. I rarely wear this watch. Thank you very much Mr. Alex.

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Sounds like a problem with the reverser wheels in the auto winding train.

[@machinistmikethetinkerer4827]

Best stuff brother. Question: maybe I missed it on your channel but you got a re-lume video? Guy wants me to re-do his Scuba Dude. Giving it a serious thought.

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Yeah, I haven’t done a luming video yet.

[@widviewer]

Wow this alex is my new teacher

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Glad to have you aboard

[@JDRichard]

What do I do when I have a excellent amplitude on the Pocket Watch with an excellent beat error but it’s running -400 seconds per day. Could this be the regulator pins

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Hey JD, I would guess this is a hairspring issue. Too long.

[@JDRichard]

@@watchrepairtutorials I think it’s the original hair spring for this watch! I did quickly test the speed by very carefully touching the gap between the regular pins with a very sharp piece of Pegwood, and looking at the amplitude on my timer software. It’s sped up considerably, so I think I really need to close those banking pins. Any advice on how to do this without screwing up the banking pins. I would think I need to remove the balance assembly from the watch first that way there’s no chance of me slipping. And then do I use tweezers or pliers; I’m thinking tweezers. And then should I close it with the hair spring in place or should I try to close it without the hair spring in place?

[@JDRichard]

@@watchrepairtutorials and one more thing. I have been making a very long video on how to fix this problem I’m quite satisfied and how I reshape that hair spring to get a very good amplitude on the watch. The video should be out sometime today or tonight as I still want to resolve this problem before I finalize the video.

[@watchrepairtutorials]

@@JDRichard I assume you are talking about the regulator or index pins, not the banking pins right? You are correct that closing the banking pins. Will speed up the rate in ALL positions. If the issue is in all positions that’s the adjustment you want to make. A pair of stiff tweezers will work with the hairspring in place and no power.

[@JDRichard]

Yes, I was talking about the regulator pins and not the banking pins. However, are you suggesting that closing the banking pins slightly Will speed up the watch? I can visualize this as the throw in the pallet fork would be shorter, but that might affect the actual amplitude as the mouth of the pallet fork would not throw the impulse Jewel as far in there, for the balance would not swing as far

[@Qwerty-cb1ti]

Hi again Alex. I dare to ask you another question because apparently I am not able to figure it out by myself as I do not possess the volume of expertise necessary. I am sure however that this question is an easy one for you. After an year and a half of work on a LUz Geneve selfwinding (Felsa 4007n) and thank to you I managed to make it work well. Tha last problem was poor amplitude which I only solved thank to your channel. (the other problems included broken jewel in the winding train, closing the holes for the barrel arbor, changing the barrel (broken tooth) and mainspring and using braking grease, changing the second and the third wheels due to pivot tip corrosion as a result of one night in ammonia-water solution, boiling the hairspring in lard and slightly correcting the end-curve, removing the radium from the dial and restoring it with Superluminova, restoring the inscriptions on the dial using ink and a diabetes syringe needle to draw 0,.06mm lines. After polishing all pivots using diamantine and toothpics and pegging all the jewels I obtained 290 degrees in the dialup p. and this fiigure does not change much in the vertical positions. Now, the only thing that bothers me is that when winding manually, the sliding pinion slips sporadiacally because it unmeshes from the winding pinion, although I strengthened the V-shaped spring responsible to keep the clutch meshed. Is this slippage a known problem and what would you do?

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Wow man that is so awesome to hear. As far as your problem, I would have to say if the teeth are slipping that there is wear. Perhaps the sliding pinion should be replaced

[@Qwerty-cb1ti]

Hi Alex. Another question on an obscure topic. I have a Seiko quartz chronograph that still works smoothly after 30 years. As you know these movements contain plastic gears along with brass and steel gears. I read somewhere that Seikos plastics are self-lubricating that the presence of such gears in the wheel train may be a plus. I would like to hear a word or two from you on this just to know what to think. The specs from the manufacturers are so ... well they tend to tell you nothing....

[@watchrepairtutorials]

@@Qwerty-cb1ti using plastic parts in a movement as a trade-off. They don’t need lubrication, but they tend to wear in break more often than the equivalent, brass or steel part would. The bottom line is they do not need to be lubricated as a matter of fact it is more detrimental to the movement as there’s nothing to hold the lubrication know where it’s applied and it will end up spreading to parts that you don’t want it to be. This is a Basic, Lubrication, 101 Theory.

[@Qwerty-cb1ti]

@@watchrepairtutorials thank you for answering. These things are not so obvious...

[@tomholloway7566]

Thank you Alex!

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Good to see you Tom

[@jscubax5067]

Thank you for sharing 🙏 I also like how you say "chaton" 🙂. I thought there was an english name for it

[@watchrepairtutorials]

You’re welcome 😊

[@DeadFlowersForDinner]

Hi Alex. If you've been doing this 30 years, then what did you use before the time grapher was invented

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Timing machines have been around for about 70 years.

[@kevinstenner8836]

Fantastic videos Alex. Can you help me please. Canion pinion on a pocket watch will not move, using the right canion pinion tool. Sure one of your videos you used some type of oil.

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Is the problem removing it or is it not moving when you try to wind the watch

[@kevinstenner8836]

@@watchrepairtutorials Thanks for replying Alex. Canion pinion rotates ok, but stack tight, so can''t t remove centre train wheel.

[@watchrepairtutorials]

@@kevinstenner8836 which movement is it?

[@kevinstenner8836]

@@watchrepairtutorials Federal pocket watch pin set. 60s from E bay. Can't see any numbers in the movement, just made in Germany. I'm very much a beginner.

[@watchrepairtutorials]

@@kevinstenner8836 hmm hard to say without seeing it. More than likely not a standard canon pinion.

[@jd1838]

Saludos apreciado amigo gracias por compartir

[@watchrepairtutorials]

You are very welcome

[@sailgears]

Cool! Thank you)

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Thank you too!

[@mohamedalizegnani2734]

We need a video about how you can choose the parts of the watch you are making like the compatibility between the dials and the movements and the cases I can’t find something that make me understand thiss Help plss❤

[@watchrepairtutorials]

I'll put it on the list.

[@Qwerty-cb1ti]

I have always Wanted to ask an expert such as yourself the following question: What would be the difference in amplitude between an oiled and an unoiled watch mouvement that is supposedly in perfect condition.

[@watchrepairtutorials]

For two watches to be in perfect condition, they would have to be new to be able to make the comparison. One of the big factors would be the quality of the movement. The higher, the quality the tighter the parts tolerance would be so they would be affected less than low to medium quality brand of movement. So, if we just looked at a medium quality, watch, move it in new condition with no lubrication, the dial positions would be less affected, and you would see roughly 30° difference in amplitude. the vertical positions would be affected much more because now all the wheels are resting until testing on 2 jewels so the loss of amplitude would probably be in the 70 to 80° loss range. If someone was wearing a watch like this, not only with the time, keeping you very poor service life would likely not make it to two years. Evidence of this can be seen in many Chinese movements sold today.

[@Qwerty-cb1ti]

@@watchrepairtutorials thank you very much for these explanations. I can assure you that I follow every single clip you make on KZbin. You are definitely one of the best

[@DutchClawz]

I think the mitutoyo link is wrong, it sends me to calipers instead of a micrometer

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Sorry, I forgot to say thank you for pointing it out. I fixed it

[@DutchClawz]

@@watchrepairtutorials No worries! Glad to be of help

[@think2023]

Not sure I understand how capillary action would allow ALL the oil to run out leaving pivot dry.

[@watchrepairtutorials]

What did I say exactly?

[@think2023]

@@watchrepairtutorials Didn't rewind...but from memory, over oiling cap jewels not only affects rate...but over time causes oil to migrate leaving balance staff pivot point dry. I get all..but the going dry part

[@watchrepairtutorials]

@@think2023 think of it like this. The jewel setting is made up of a endstone and balance jewel right? When there is the right amount of oil in a jewel setting, the oil is kind of suspended from where the tip of the balance pivot rotates on the endstone up the balance pivot to the conical part of the pivot that rotates in the balance jewel. It's almost like a bubble of oil that surrounds the pivot. Oil tends to want to creep around rounded edges so when there is too much oil it migrates around the rounded edges and pulls that bubble away from the balance pivot. Now when the balance is in the horizontal position, the tip that rotates on the endstone doesn't have enough oil and when the movement is vertical, the bubble is no longer there to lubricate the pivot as it rotates sideways in the jewel setting. What little oil that's left behind dries out at a much faster rate essentially becoming dry and this can be accelerated with the introduction of dust.

[@think2023]

​@@watchrepairtutorials Thanks! Makes sense now. Immediate impact...moderate...long term migration reduces oil at friction point and shortens timespan of the service. Not dries out per se...but effect is similar. REALLT appreciate the time you took to answer!

[@montyklaus7223]

If you was holding a Kailua and cream you would be a dead ringer for the big Lebowski!!!!! Just start calling your channel ( the dude watch maker )

[@watchrepairtutorials]

The Dude Abides

[@chanoble3112]

Alex. All I can say is, you are indeed a diamond in a sea of sand. Hope I can buy a real Scotch Whisky at some point..

[@watchrepairtutorials]

Where are you?

[@chanoble3112]

@@watchrepairtutorials Scotland Alex..

[@watchrepairtutorials]

@@chanoble3112 fantastic. You are in the freaking heart of whiskey land.

[@williamdavis8910]

Thanks!

[@watchrepairtutorials]

I appreciate your support my friend. Thank you very much