If you don’t plan to fly at 70% and higher throttle a lot, it will be pretty much the same. But if you want a racer or a want to fly very fast freestyle, motor temperature will be higher than that of a “true” 6S build. You also should double-check component compatibility. Does everything (i.e. ESC, flight controller, VTX) on the 4s version accept 6S?

Quad: TBS Unify Pro32 Nano at 400mW + Lumenier Micro AXII. Goggles: Skyzone 03O’s built in receiver + VAS Mad Mushroom Omni + ORT 3 turn helical pointing in the direction of the most obstructed part of the flight track. In general, I found that saving on video transmitters and antennas is really not worth it. So for me it’s TBS all the way plus other reputable brands like VAS or Lumenier. I fly a lot with TBS Triumph Pro antennas on other builds, they are really good.

@@ErgoFPV Thank u for the quick reply ;)

@@ErgoFPV thank you so muchhh for helping me, but for now ill try to digest all the information first, i hope i can contact u later on this comment section in case i don’t understand smth, plus i tot leaving a comment here would probably help someone in future tht going into the hobby, thank you again broo🙏🤝🔥🔥

@@isaacsc4434 you're welcome! Feel free to ask more questions

Thanks! There is an impact on efficiency in high throttle range (upwards of 50-60%, increasing the higher you go) but in my experience it only matters when you’re really pushing it, like on racing builds. I’m still flying the setup from the video for freestyle, and the motors are not much hotter usually as I don’t spend much time with throttle fully open. I’m actually running an extreme application of this setup on a racing build too - just because I had the motors already, and those are 2722kv. Racing on 6S makes them quite hot, especially on hot days, which means efficiency is also not the best (more energy from the battery converted to heat), but I don’t care really. I don’t see any dramatic difference in flight time when compared to an identical setup with “true” 6S motors - I can do the same amount of laps. To sum it up - yes, it’s less efficient and the missing thrust gets converted to elevated motor temperature, but not really noticeable for freestyle. Still doable for racing, but be prepared to potentially burn the motors if the ambient temperatures are high and you’re pushing it.

@@ErgoFPV thank you for the quick and detailed reply. I believe I have an issue where my FC restarts mid-flight and I believe it could be related to overheating, or too much power draw. I'm running a 2205/3200KV on a 3" cinewhoop quad with 6s and put an 80% limit on it. I just found this KZbin video as well where they did some indepth bench testing. Which also matches what you are saying. kzbin.info/www/bejne/sKGThqesl92np6c Thanks again!

​@@yuranium you're welcome! In my experience an FC restarting mid-flight is hardly ever related to motors overheating. If anything, the ESC might misbehave because it can't handle 6S, but again that should not cause an FC restart. Drawing too much power could only affect the FC if battery goes too low for the voltage regulator that FC is powered from, which is also rather unlikely on 6S (even a fully discharged battery has pretty high voltage for typical regulators). I could think of three reasons for the FC restart: 1. mechanical issues - some wire or connector or soldering joint is not good, and in-flight vibrations cause it break the circuit sometimes. Check all of them, especially for wire cores broken inside the insulation and also around solder joints. 2. Interference from the ESC. If the FC restarts when you do aggressive maneuvers chances are the ESC causes voltage spikes in the system and those make the FC freak out. Mitigation is adding a beefy enough capacitor across the battery leads on the ESC or powering the flight controller through a separate voltage regulator / LC filter (rather extreme, usually a capacitor on the leads is enough). 3. EMF interference from ESC hitting the FC. Very rare, I've only had it on one of my builds. The FC was rather close to the ESC (tight stack) and in one particular orientation the FC would freeze when I aggressively pump throttle or flip/roll. Turning the FC 90 degrees in place reliably fixed the problem, so my theory for that one was FC and ESC had an unlucky combination of individual components placement. In one particular position something on the ESC was producing enough EMF to hit the component on the FC which was close by and sensitive enough to make the whole thing freeze. Good luck with troubleshooting!

Listened a lot of sound effect samples and then carefully placed and faded them in/out and left/right in the video editor. The original sound of the footage is a constant loud propeller whine 😄

@@timdoink6873 basically all over the Internet and KZbin. I searched for things like “free sound effect whoosh” or “free sound effect electrical light”, made sure I didn’t obviously infringe on copyright and used what I found. It took time and I needed to change the sounds a bit in the editor (add echo, adjust pitch and volume, things like that). You would probably be better off buying access to some paid sound effect bank as the quality of free stuff is often questionable, but I can’t really recommend any particular one.

I was already running a 6s compatible capacitor on that build. Higher rated capacitors don’t have any practical downsides if you run them at lower voltage.

@@ErgoFPV many thanks! great video and easy to follow . i have setup mine using your guide. i also notice you did not have the mah entered on your batttery section of betaflight but the mah's is predent for 4s and 6s on your fpv footage. mine is set to 1550 at the moment for my 4s but my new 6s battery is 1300mah. do you have any advice to keep the current sensor accurate?

@@ErgoFPV Yeah, it says motor output limit is 66. I'll try lowering it even more. I just flew on the 6s battery again. Good level flight. I punched out and did a half roll. That was good but when I half rolled again to put myself right side up, it did a 360 roll leaving my upside down. It way overshot and did not correct to the setpoint. My stick input was for a half roll, not a full roll. Very weird. Very strange and so far no one has heard of this problem.

Very strange. I did a bit of research, and the Mamba stack seems to be able to handle 6S fine. At least I haven't found many problem reports. The capacitor that comes with it seems to be on the smaller side somehow, so if you have another one lying around I would try temporarily replacing or adding it in parallel to bump the overall capacity to ~1000uF to see if that changes anything. There is also one weird case that I personally had which might be relevant. I had a build that would fly just fine when doing nice slow turns, but its flight controller would freeze on sharp maneuvres. Literally the OSD stopped showing any changes and it stopped reacting to anything and (thankfully) drop out of the sky with ESC telling "no signal from the flight controller". The interesting part is how I fixed it. The freezes it was having were very strange and the flight controller was the one with one side being completely flat for mounting VTX/RX, so all of the electronics was on the side that was close to the ESC. I thought it could be that the ESC was interfering with the FC electromagnetically, so I turned the flight controller the components side up, and the problem was gone. Later I discovered that it was enough to even rotate the FC in place by 90 degrees to prevent the freezing. So maybe that is also something you can try - either move the FC a bit further away from the ESC, or turn it 90 degrees in place (don't forget to change the gyro/acc orientation in the configurator).

I positioned myself strategically at the center of the planned route so I wasn't actually flying very far. Between 0:01 and 0:02 at the bottom of the image you can see the top of the info booth with the letter "i" on it. On that floor further away there are two benches on the left and on the right. A silhouette next to the left one is me.

@@ErgoFPV Thank you for your reply! I appreciate it. I saw you now following your orientation. So, you didn't even use a crossfire? I believe you are using DJI Air Unit....but only it? I'm asking because I aim to make videos like this, in a single take. I'm planning to buy the DJI air unit, but I need to know if it is enough, please. Thank you! Nice job!

Thank you! It didn't even have DJI equipment, just pure old school stuff, but kind of on the quality side for the video transmission. Frsky R-XSR with telemetry was used for control link so I could monitor RSSI which gave me confidence while planning the route. Standing in the middle of the mall I flew around pretty much all of it, and in only one place far far away in the corner RSSI went close to failsafing. On the video side I was using TBS Unify PRO32 Nano paired with a Lumenier Micro AXII that I installed to stick further away from carbon parts, battery and camera. If you're interested, you can check the build here, I documented it more or less completely rotorbuilds.com/build/20986 Speaking of using just an Air Unit, I think it definitely is an option. I still do analog myself, but what I hear from people I trust, DJI's link is much more stable than analog RX + VTX, especially in environments with many obstacles (=inside shopping malls and alike). On the other hand if you already have analog gear, I would suggest you trying it in one of the scenarios you envision for filming whatever you want to film. You might discover the analog tech is still enough.

​@@ErgoFPV Thank you for your explanation! I saw the link, it has every thing detailed, thank you for sharing it. I already have a analog gear, but I started buying the dji air unit and FC that Nurk recomended in his video....As here in Brazil it is not cheap, I will buy step by step untill be able to assembly everething. Please consider take a look at my profile @drogodrone. Let's keep in touch and change experiences in FPV. Keep doing this great job!

Thanks! Subbed, let’s keep in touch.