4S motors on 6S and 4S with Betaflight motor output limit and auto profile cell count

[@1LittleTinker]

Loved the video on throttle limit and sub'd off of that. Another great video here. One thing I believe to be true based on discussion with motor engineer is that you can over volt motors happily enough by small amounts without really impacting life span, but more over volting = progressively shorter life. So with temperature as a guide and maybe some battered props for testing worst case, at own risk, you can push the limit a bit higher. In this example it would be interesting to push perhaps to 75%, maybe test 72% first. Thus you would really have a little more top end motor speed compared 4s and hopefully fully counter the weight increase of battery from thrust to weight ratio perspective without too much risk. On the whoops e.g. Happymodel, I think they have been effectively encouraging us to overvolt unknowingly, selling e.g. 16000kv motors as 2s which really possibly should only be closer 1s etc, and mostly works fine, until QC gets the better of you. similar deal with their toothpick quads You deserve more subs, will recommend

[@cooperlane7147]

As someone who has run 2700kv motors on 5S... yes, I think it can be done 🤣

[@anagami528]

I got on quads 2550kv motors which are rated for 4-6S but I had no idea how to use 6S pack without to burn them out (on the particular quad is 6S rated FC & ESC's) but now I know :-). I wish this video hit min. 100K views cos it deserve that!

[@bregycelly8766]

I love this! JB can learn something today :D I did it with my Dragon HX5 and Racestar 2207 2500KV and a 5S battery. stunning! Thank you so much for this. works awesome.

[@ErgoFPV]

:D you’re very welcome!

[@nuhbiwan]

Very well explained mate. Hust found your video after watching Albert Kim trying to explain it and miserably failed

[@madhatter8088]

Thank you so much. I accidentally bought several 6s batteries and I haven't been able to use them. I knew about motor output limit, but thought If I did that, my 4s batteries would be no longer usable. Thanks again for this video.

[@BraveFPV]

Thanks for the tutorial...I followed everything and have my quad setup with 4s and 6s and things are flying super smooth. I have Xing-e 2207 2750kv setup with a motor output limit of 63 and everything comes down cool. This is a big win!

[@ErgoFPV]

Yep, no need to throw the 4s motors away to go to 6s 😬

[@maplefpv]

i have the same motors, my quad is tuned really well tho i dont want to retune. Did u notice anything?

[@Bigbeardfpv]

best part is that now you can fly these no matter what batteries are available. I am creating 4s 5s and 6s profiles just in case :)

[@KrotowX]

I too have all my 5" quad motor collection being 4S however want to do gradual transform to 6S. Have no wish to throw out working motors. Also active 5" FPV guys here mostly moved to 6S so I have nobody who would buy my 4S motors around. There your tutorial became very useful. Thanks.

[@AsgardStudios]

Excellent info even after 3 years! Thanks very much.

[@bolts5372]

Really good video. You explained it so well and at a good pace. So little information around on this topic. JB did a video on this topic which sucked hard

[@APpGRAFIk]

This is great work mate. Going to do this to my quad whilst i wait for my new 6s motors to arrive. The question of more efficiency can be simplified. 6s motors have less rotational mass due to fewer windings and lighter magnets. it makes sense to invest in 6s motors if you care about efficiency.

[@ErgoFPV]

Thank you! Speaking of motor weight, I just checked 2522kv and 1922kv versions of Hyperlite 2207.5 Team Edition motor that I have at hand, and the difference is negligible - about 0.1 gram. The magnets on both are the same because the rotors are interchangeable through the whole range of KV versions they offer. Since the weight is the same, the amount of copper in the stator is also the same, so the windings should be made either with different wire gauge or using the different number of strands for each pole. There is something interesting about motor efficiency though. Looking at thrust stand tests it is visible that the maximum efficiency for 220X/230X motor is typically reached somewhere around the middle of the throttle range. They are less efficient at low and high throttle. So if the quad is very light and runs 4S motors on 6S, the motors might be working in their “low throttle” band with less efficiency than proper 6S ones would have. On the other hand running 4S motors with an output limit in mostly “full throttle” application like racing might be even beneficial because the motor would be working closer to its maximum efficiency band.

[@ErgoFPV]

But then there’s a question how much current actually goes through the motor with an output limit vs the one with the “real” kv and how that translates into the magnetic field of the stator. I guess an actual thrust stand comparison test would be the best answer 🙃

[@APpGRAFIk]

@@ErgoFPV your knowledge is beyond me haha. Its not as simple as I thought. I probably won't change my motors out so soon in that case.

[@3eggerfpv397]

Very cool video! Drainman FPV also did a post on this a couple days ago! IDK, I fly 4s, 5s, and 6s, and I’m not convinced 6s is the future, I think 5s is the perfect lipo! A quad built specifically for 5s, will also perform damn good on 4s, but a quad built for 6s, doesn’t have the low-end with.a 4s lipo, although, again, will fly good on a 5s lipo! So when you look at this as a whole, I just think 5S with as high a KV as you can go, is the setup! No motor output limit needed!

[@ErgoFPV]

Thank you! There are two parts in 6S for me. The first one is noticeable consistency in power delivery aka "no sag" (that is silly, there is sag). I tried to figure out where that consistency comes from, sort of failed, but I definitely see it on my racing builds. That brings me to the second part, which is the fact that racing has gone pretty much exclusively 6S. I also fly freestyle and I like the convenience of having all my packs with the same cell count, especially the ability to parallel charge. So for me 6S on freestyle builds is just a natural step to bring them to the same cell count as my racing builds after I retire my 4S packs. As for 5S, I think it is a great setup as well, especially if you want to fly different cell counts as you pointed out. Personally though, I like sticking to one "perfect" battery size, so the versatility part is of less importance for me.

[@kronkite061]

This is the exact exchange everyone needs to see when deciding which way to go. Coming from the 5S camp, I agree with both your schools of thought 100%.

[@taterfpv]

@@ErgoFPV There is also more of a tendency with micros to change battery cells from 2S to 3S or 3S to 4S on the same micros. The auto profile change is something I had been waiting for and your video is clear and concise for anyone looking to implement that feature alone. I have a lot of larger 4S near end of life and a dozen sets of so called "4S motors" some of which were premium priced and I don't want to retire them. This is a very good solution for me as I gradually move my larger quads to 6S. Thanks for the work you put into making this. Liked and subbed.

[@fastfrank61]

Thanks Ergo since your Vidio with my Quad park (12) i changed all Lipos to 20x Tattu 6S V3 1500mph 120C and realy fantastic . Best regards from Alicante Spain :-))))))))))))))))))))))

[@ErgoFPV]

Awesome! You’re very welcome :)

[@fpvnycdream_4197]

Dude your video was spot on. Clear and to the point. I’m going to set it up as we speak. And yes my stack is 6s capable just going to double check camera. Thanks again. Keep the great content coming.

[@CarbonGlassMan]

Great video and instruction. I started with 4s as well. Now I'm ready to step it up to 6s since I'm finally good enough to notice battery sag and I need more power. I can just do this until the ten 4s batteries I have wear out and then just buy 6s motors to go with all the new 6s batteries I buy. Thanks!

[@prozay6856]

I fly my XL10 which has 2814 1100 kv motors, 6s motors, on 4S, 5S, and 6S. I did in fact do this method, but didn’t do the motor output as I am running opposite. 4S and 5S batteries on a 6S rig. I wanted options without doing too much programming and this is the best for me. Build 6S. Do what you see in this video. And fly 5S and 4S

[@jessefpv4949]

Just did this and it works.. tha is brotha man. Been fky 4s since I started now I can fly 6s batts SWEET!!

[@hillbillyfpv1]

Man I had 2 quads that I got to set this up on.. and if I switch out a flight controller on the third I can do it the same.. Love the option it gives!! And it works great just like in this video!! Thanks a lot!!!!

[@cjfpv]

Fantastic and clever way of doing this. Thank you SO much, worked like a charm!

[@ImagesHunter]

Magnificent! You've done magic! Now I can use my 6 cell batteries on my iFlight Megabee that board accepted 4s - 6s but the 3600kv motors, only accepts 4s batteries. Thank you a lot. New subscriber! Regards

[@othermichigansaturn]

Thanks for this. Nice work!

[@kansai9685]

great tutorial that really works

[@motiv8154]

Ok, that was a very well explained Video ma dude!!!

[@mlfunmix]

Hello. A big thank to you for this video. But a question : how to reverse to the origin? Because my motors are in 4S, and I put a limit with 6S batt. But i'll change my motors for biggers and 6S (lower kv), and how to reset these parameters when i'll have change? Thank you

[@barraca1393]

This open a lot of doors! Thank you very much.

[@MinhNguyen-dr4mr]

Awesome vid, very informative, can't wait to try it!

[@sorapochi]

Thanks for the nice info! Does this mean 1s motor with 2s battery is possible?

[@christianoppermann1784]

Awesome video! I'm wondering if there is some nice way of handling the scenario where you are running 6S and then have to unplug and plugin the battery half way through it (I guess it will switch to profile 3 in that situation) ? Do you then have to manually select the 6S profile again ?

[@ErgoFPV]

Thanks! Betaflight uses the max cell voltage setting to detect the cell count. I recommend setting it to 4.4V which means any voltage value within in the range of 22.0V - 26.4V will be recognized as 6S. I usually finish the flights at about 3.55V per cell loaded (hovering) and when unplugged it bounces back to about 3.7V per cell which is right above 22V. So even with an "empty" battery the auto switching works as it should. If you bring the batteries even lower, you can do two things. First, you can set the max cell voltage to 4.3V, that would bring the 6S threshold down to 21.5V, which is 3.59V per cell unloaded. Second, you can either make the 6S profile the "catch all" by setting the autoprofile_cell_count for it to -1 (and setting autoprofile_cell_count for the third one to 0). Having "0" setting for the third one would be a bit unideal though because the "0" setting has the effect of disabling the auto profile switching if you end up selecting that profile, so it would be a trap waiting for you in some sense, but it should work. In my personal experience, none of that is needed. I have it set up exactly like I showed in the video and I never had any problems with the profile selection when plugging in half-full batteries. And sorry I didn't reply to you earlier, KZbin for some reason was hiding your comment until today.

[@christianoppermann1784]

@@ErgoFPV Thanks for the elaborate answer. Sounds like it will work perfectly as you describe it - I will give it a try :) Is it correctly understood that the auto profile selection only happens when powering on ? In other words that it does not switch during flight if the voltage were to dip below the threshold for 6S for instance.

[@ErgoFPV]

Correct. It detects the cell count when powering up and keeps it at that setting, doesn’t matter how low you allow the battery voltage to drop after it’s connected.

[@KamiKaze-bh3sr]

Awesome thank you for sharing this, I am going to set this up today :)

[@marioquadfpv4706]

Very good video, help me decide not to ditch my old quads. And also save money on cheaper motors with higher KV that are on sale even though I'm going 6s on all the rest of my quads😜👍 Thanks! Subbed

[@dapemaes]

Hi @ergoFPV Thanks for the video, it's very nice. Can someone helps me with one question? How did @ErgoFPV obtain the first data "1750Kv What you want". How can I calculate the KV I need to have to not burn the motors? Thank you in advance

[@ErgoFPV]

Hey. Sorry for the late response. I don’t have any formula to calculate the target KV, but instead look at 6S quads with similar weight and same propeller size that other people / manufacturers build and use that as a guideline. For 5” props on “normal” freestyle or racing rig it’s typical to use motors in KV range of 1700 - 1900. That’s where 1750 KV came from.

[@MrYelijun]

Very helpful, THANKS! By the way, your flight is ROCK!!!

[@ArmanAvedyan]

Explained perfectly. Subbed! bro thank you!

[@marizatiablae]

VEry nice video mate! I was looking for smth like that... but my doubt is... isn't just better to buy a 6s motors setup and use it with 4s in case? I mean... lowering the output motor limit, do you still have benefit of 6s also on 4s quad? Joshua Bardwell in his video says it's not the same thing at all...

[@aurelienwittmann4105]

Great video, I was wondering if you could use it just to lower lower the kv of the motors while staying on 4s to increase efficiency. I want to do this on some 1404 3800kv motors and lower them to 2750kv?

[@MindRiderFPV]

Nice and clear. What about 5S?

[@yuranium]

Great video! Thanks for sharing with the community. Do you know how this may impact motor efficiency and flight times? Will the motors run hotter?

[@ErgoFPV]

Thanks! There is an impact on efficiency in high throttle range (upwards of 50-60%, increasing the higher you go) but in my experience it only matters when you’re really pushing it, like on racing builds. I’m still flying the setup from the video for freestyle, and the motors are not much hotter usually as I don’t spend much time with throttle fully open. I’m actually running an extreme application of this setup on a racing build too - just because I had the motors already, and those are 2722kv. Racing on 6S makes them quite hot, especially on hot days, which means efficiency is also not the best (more energy from the battery converted to heat), but I don’t care really. I don’t see any dramatic difference in flight time when compared to an identical setup with “true” 6S motors - I can do the same amount of laps. To sum it up - yes, it’s less efficient and the missing thrust gets converted to elevated motor temperature, but not really noticeable for freestyle. Still doable for racing, but be prepared to potentially burn the motors if the ambient temperatures are high and you’re pushing it.

[@yuranium]

@@ErgoFPV thank you for the quick and detailed reply. I believe I have an issue where my FC restarts mid-flight and I believe it could be related to overheating, or too much power draw. I'm running a 2205/3200KV on a 3" cinewhoop quad with 6s and put an 80% limit on it. I just found this KZbin video as well where they did some indepth bench testing. Which also matches what you are saying. kzbin.info/www/bejne/sKGThqesl92np6c Thanks again!

[@ErgoFPV]

​@@yuranium you're welcome! In my experience an FC restarting mid-flight is hardly ever related to motors overheating. If anything, the ESC might misbehave because it can't handle 6S, but again that should not cause an FC restart. Drawing too much power could only affect the FC if battery goes too low for the voltage regulator that FC is powered from, which is also rather unlikely on 6S (even a fully discharged battery has pretty high voltage for typical regulators). I could think of three reasons for the FC restart: 1. mechanical issues - some wire or connector or soldering joint is not good, and in-flight vibrations cause it break the circuit sometimes. Check all of them, especially for wire cores broken inside the insulation and also around solder joints. 2. Interference from the ESC. If the FC restarts when you do aggressive maneuvers chances are the ESC causes voltage spikes in the system and those make the FC freak out. Mitigation is adding a beefy enough capacitor across the battery leads on the ESC or powering the flight controller through a separate voltage regulator / LC filter (rather extreme, usually a capacitor on the leads is enough). 3. EMF interference from ESC hitting the FC. Very rare, I've only had it on one of my builds. The FC was rather close to the ESC (tight stack) and in one particular orientation the FC would freeze when I aggressively pump throttle or flip/roll. Turning the FC 90 degrees in place reliably fixed the problem, so my theory for that one was FC and ESC had an unlucky combination of individual components placement. In one particular position something on the ESC was producing enough EMF to hit the component on the FC which was close by and sensitive enough to make the whole thing freeze. Good luck with troubleshooting!

[@OnepackFpv]

Awesome thanks. I’m trying this this weekend.

[@ikarus126]

Great information, I will definitely try that. Thanks

[@ErgoFPV]

You're welcome!

[@fastfrank61]

Vidio perfecto explicado :-)))))))) Saludos desde Alicante Spain

[@jdogb1]

Very cool Vergo, I heard of this but haven’t seen it setup. The quad sure sounds great with 6s ! I might try to do this with one of my old 4s quads 👍🤟

[@SH4DY]

literally all i needed to know, great video

[@iblackymb]

Thank you! Very nice video!

[@throttlenerd]

Whew man thanks! Super info! One thing I'm curious about: does a, say, 2400 kv motor limited to 1800 kv have the same power/torque characteristics as if it was 1800 kv "unlimited"?

[@golovanoffpv]

good question, Im inserested in it too

[@ALNDAddiction]

Awesome! Saved me alot! Keep it up

[@MrMaxkioto]

GREAT VIDEO!

[@noamamir0942]

so is there a point to get low kv motors? or i just can continue to get my current 4s motors and run them on 6s, is there a preformence different or any other reason to get low kv motors

[@tinongnjong1305]

8:58 The way you kept making cell count mistakes got me so anoid but then it was also funny because when you have a lot of kwads it becomes hard to know which one takes which cell voltage

[@GiffysChannel]

Thank's man, worked like a charm

[@ScoutFPV]

thanks man this works great

[@reyreyna3555]

Great info i did this for my 5inch 4s build but esc is only rated for 5s... is it still the same formula and cli also the same?

[@ErgoFPV]

There are two things to adjust if you want to make it switch between 4S and 5S. First, the target KV ("what you want" in the video) should be that of a typical motor for 5S, which I guess is around 2000 to 2100 KV. Then you divide it by the motors' actual KV and get the percentage as instructed. The second difference is in the CLI. Instead of "set auto_profile_cell_count = 6" you need to do "set auto_profile_cell_count = 5" so the second profile ("profile 1" according to the CLI) gets selected when you plug in a 5S pack. If the ESC is rated up to 5S only, it might make sense to look around for people actually flying it on 5S or maybe ask on /r/Multicopter or see if you can find 5S builds with that ESC on rotorbuilds.com to see if people did it successfully, just in case. The fact that it's not rated higher might mean that it generates more electrical noise when running on higher voltage, and that can lead to weird quad behavior like twitches and vibrations. If you can't find much online, you can try borrowing a 5S pack from somebody to try if it flies okay before committing to buying lots of them. But in principle it should work with those two adjustments I mentioned above.

[@JaraFPV]

I NOTICED: I have a 4S setup (T motor F40 2400kV) and a 4S and 6S battery. I done all the configurations you set. but when arming the quad, I hear a difference between 4S and 6S. So I done a little testing in motor output tab. In 6S, I gave the motor a 1020 PWM motor output and remembering the motor noise. Then, going down to 0, replace the battery with 4S, trying to look for the same noise in master slider and I got 1040 which has the same motor noise in 6S. So obviously, 6S spins the motor faster than in 4S when only giving a 1020 PWM. What's the difference between using the Throttle Scaling vs Motor Output Limit ?

[@ErgoFPV]

I just looked up the F40 motor on Miniquadtestbench and apparently it is actually 2470KV even though the specs say 2400: www.miniquadtestbench.com/t-motor-f40-pro-ii-2400kv.html That is something I could have taken into account in the video I guess, but haven’t thought of. What you can try as well is setting throttle output limit to 67% because 4S is 67% of 6S and comparing the noise. I also have seen some mentions that 6S has torque advantages in low throttle situations, so it can be that and the inaccurate KV spec contributing to the difference you hear. The difference between motor output limit and throttle limit is that with the latter the only thing you are limiting is the overall throttle position, but the flight controller can still command the motors to go full 100%. That can happen when you hit something like a branch and the quad freaks out trying to recover. With motor output limit the motor power setting is limited regardless of where the command comes from, being it throttle input from the radio or the flight controller counteracting an external force. Which is the right thing to do since you don’t want a high KV motor get full 6S voltage.

[@8anos8anos]

Thank You Pal, I was looking for this. Based on this mod, what about Spike Absorber, specially on 6s?

[@ErgoFPV]

You’re welcome! What I can tell from my experience is you definitely need a capacitor on the battery leads when you go 6s. You can get away without it on 4s, but on 6s there are going to be weird issues with the tune or the quad would sometimes jerk to the side until you install that capacitor. Having a full spike absorber with a diode-capacitor pair should theoretically be even better in terms of cleanliness of the tune and quad reactions. I haven’t tried it myself, that’s why I say theoretically, but if you can get one easily I would say go for it. Otherwise, install a 800-1000mF low ESR capacitor (assuming it’s a typical 5” quad) and you’re going to be fine.

[@8anos8anos]

@@ErgoFPV Thank u for the quick reply ;)

[@rapolo01]

you deserve a sub, tumbs up !!

[@TransAm2k4]

Have you seen the video from Joshua Bardwell. Wonder what he did wrong other than not setting up the automatic profile selection which btw is super cool!!! Even usefull for 6s motors using 4s (higher pids for 4s). Thanks!!!

[@ErgoFPV]

You’re very welcome! I believe there was a bug in Betaflight at the time JB was filming his video which required the quad to be restarted in order for the motor output limit change to take effect. If I’m not mistaken, he even filmed another take on it later with a Kopis running 2100-something KV motors, and that time it worked.

[@limitsizyasam3891]

Hey man, many thanks for this best video, Today I tried and booooom It does work man you are awesome, I have been doing fpv for 5 years. This video makes me sooooo happy thanks a lot man really. Just because I haven't used real 6S motors I dont know how is that I mean If I use the real 6S motor like 1800KV will the torque change ? I have doubt any way it works and my thousands of 4S motors are not wasted thanks to you man really thanksssssssssss

[@ErgoFPV]

You are very welcome, mate! I'm currently working on a more detailed comparison video regarding 4S motor on 6S vs 6S motor on 6S, so a proper answer is coming. But at the moment all data I have points that there should be no significant torque or efficiency difference between the two. I also have two "proper" 6S racers with low KV motors and I don't feel any magic in low KV compared to high KV with output limit.

[@limitsizyasam3891]

Thanks mate. You dont know how much you saved my life and budget ❤️❤️ a question; I did 72 motor limit on 2500kv but want to change to 80 motor limit so what is steps for that ? Should I flash fc and do all things accourding to 80 or any easy way ? I am waiting your 6S vs 6S high kv by motor limit output ❤️

[@ErgoFPV]

@@limitsizyasam3891 Hey! I'm happy to hear the tutorial was helpful :) You don't need to redo everything to change the limit value. Just connect the quad to Betaflight Configurator, open the CLI tab, type "profile 1" (without quotes), press Enter, type "set motor_output_limit = 80", press Enter, type "save", press Enter again. Done. Nothing magical there, but you need to select the right profile when you change the limit value, hence the "profile 1" command. "profile 1" actually means "select the second profile" since in the CLI profiles are numbered starting with zero, and it is the second profile which gets auto-selected when you plug in a 6S battery.

[@bolts5372]

@@limitsizyasam3891 you don't need to reflash. just re enter the new number in the CLI

[@limitsizyasam3891]

Also I just found that after you done these settings, you can adjust the motor output limit on osd :)

[@khylianedwards6611]

Thanks man such a good tutorial!

[@marizatiablae]

And question 2: at this point isn't better to buy a 6s setup and eventually use 4s on it? I'm stuck in decision which one to buy between nazgul 6s or nazgul 4s... conisdering i own a lot of 4s batteries... Thank you mate

[@CarbonGlassMan]

So I did this and the quad is nearly unflyable on 6s. Do you have to change the tune for 6s? I am overshooting big time on rolls and especially flips with huge bounce back. It flies great on 4s. Just plugging in a 6s battery, that is only 23 grams heavier than my 4s battery, the quad flies horribly. I don't know anything about tuning so if I need to retune the quad I'm screwed on this idea.

[@ErgoFPV]

Hey. I'm still flying this setup on two of my quads, and neither needed any tuning. Basically default PIDs and in the case of the racing build a bit more filtering via the sliders to tolerate heavily battered props. That one runs really high KV motors - 2722KV with zero problems at 65% output limit, so it should be something with your build or setup that causes this. Here's what I can think of: 1. Verify that motor output limit is actually properly configured. Take the props off, connect a 6S battery, connect the quad to the computer, go to the CLI tab in the configurator and type "get motor_output_limit". You should see the number that you set as the desired motor output percentage, and that should be less than the default 100 (probably around 60-70). 2. Do you have a low ESR capacitor across the battery leads on your build? Voltage spikes that the ESC produces on 6S are higher, and you need a capacitor to smooth them out so they don't affect the flight controller electronics. The same applies to 4S actually, but the spikes are less extreme, so you can get away without a cap. I'm running capacitors on all of my builds. Something like Panasonic FM series low ESR 1000uF 35V for 6S. 3. You could be unfortunate to have an ESC that doesn't behave well on 6S even though it's rated for that. What ESC and FC are you running on the build? 4. You can go into the configurator's CLI tab, type "diff all" and paste the configuration here so I can have a look. Maybe I can spot something.

[@CarbonGlassMan]

@@ErgoFPV I'll have to wait till Amazon sends my replacement battery. On the 2nd use of my Ovonics 1300mah 6s battery it went from 21.9v to 10v instantly. The quad dropped out of the sky. It was a bad battery. I did watch in the PID tab it change from profile 1 to profile 2 just by plugging in a 4s or 6s battery. When I get the 6s battery I'll check the CLI for motor output like you said. I built a Geprc mk4 frame. Velox 2207 2550kv motors and my stack is a 30x30 Mamba f7 APP with a Blheli_32 50a Mamba ESC. I do have the capacitor soldered onto the battery wire pads on the ESC. The 35v 470mf cap that came with the stack. I wouldn't think it should fly any different from 4s to 6s. My percent is 66.333% I believe. That gives my props the exact same rpm at full throttle. I made the motor output 66% so my props should be a few rpms slower on 6s than on 4s. I can roll slowly or flip slowly and it's fine on 6s. It's the jerk moves where it goes nuts.

[@CarbonGlassMan]

@@ErgoFPV Yeah, it says motor output limit is 66. I'll try lowering it even more. I just flew on the 6s battery again. Good level flight. I punched out and did a half roll. That was good but when I half rolled again to put myself right side up, it did a 360 roll leaving my upside down. It way overshot and did not correct to the setpoint. My stick input was for a half roll, not a full roll. Very weird. Very strange and so far no one has heard of this problem.

[@ErgoFPV]

Very strange. I did a bit of research, and the Mamba stack seems to be able to handle 6S fine. At least I haven't found many problem reports. The capacitor that comes with it seems to be on the smaller side somehow, so if you have another one lying around I would try temporarily replacing or adding it in parallel to bump the overall capacity to ~1000uF to see if that changes anything. There is also one weird case that I personally had which might be relevant. I had a build that would fly just fine when doing nice slow turns, but its flight controller would freeze on sharp maneuvres. Literally the OSD stopped showing any changes and it stopped reacting to anything and (thankfully) drop out of the sky with ESC telling "no signal from the flight controller". The interesting part is how I fixed it. The freezes it was having were very strange and the flight controller was the one with one side being completely flat for mounting VTX/RX, so all of the electronics was on the side that was close to the ESC. I thought it could be that the ESC was interfering with the FC electromagnetically, so I turned the flight controller the components side up, and the problem was gone. Later I discovered that it was enough to even rotate the FC in place by 90 degrees to prevent the freezing. So maybe that is also something you can try - either move the FC a bit further away from the ESC, or turn it 90 degrees in place (don't forget to change the gyro/acc orientation in the configurator).

[@jeremyvenet]

Nice. Thank you. Do you get all the advantages of the 4s like low throttle control and flight time?

[@ErgoFPV]

You mean advantages of 6S, right? Speaking of throttle control, especially at the bottom - definitely yes. I do feel a difference, I can best describe it as thrust being reliably available earlier. On 4S I have to go higher to have the same “reliability” feeling, and on 6S it comes much earlier. Speaking of flight time - depends on what you mean by that. If you normally fly with a 1300mAh 4S and then slap a 1300mAh 6S instead, you basically increase the volume of your quad’s fuel tank by 30%, so surely you have more flight time. That comes at a cost of more weight the quad has to carry, and that changes all sorts of things as far as flight characteristics go. What I recommend doing is looking at the weight of your 4S battery and finding the one that weighs almost the same, but in 6S. That will keep your flight characteristics intact and will provide roughly the same flight time, but also bring the consistency of power delivery throughout the flight (6S packs feel very similar in the air when fully charged and when almost completely empty), and also that increased low throttle authority. For my freestyle rig I went from 1300 mAh 4S to 1050 mAh 6S.

[@jeremyvenet]

Thank you! It was what a was wondering.

[@romeo88865]

Niceee I want to do this to my Protek 35 from Iflight is that ok ?

[@bolts5372]

The vid out there exampling this - I'm planning to have two quads running everything the same including motor size 2306. The difference being in motor kv one at 2450kv and the other at 2750kv. i'm then planning to run 6s and run the same rpm on each. Would the scaling work differently and feel different? Also how different is it running a true 6s / unscaled back motor?

[@ErgoFPV]

I hate to say that, but I'm still preparing the experiment to see what the difference is between a true 6s motor and a scaled one. I have the motors already and currently am building the thrust stand rig and also working on the quads to do real flight testing. Theoretically though, the only difference should be the slight loss of the motor speed setting resolution between the ESC and the flight controller. DShot allows 2048 distinct motor speed steps, and motor output limit cuts off a chunk of those steps at the top. The difference between 2750kv and 2450kv when you scale them down to, say, 1750kv is that for the former you only allow 1303 throttle setting steps to be used out of 2048, and for the latter a bit more - 1463 steps. Both numbers are higher than 1000 throttle steps that radio protocols use, so there should be no difference in the throttle feel, but theoretically the flight controller might not be as precise with the very high kv motor since the available throttle steps are reduced quite a lot. But that's one possibility, while the other is that the flight controller is perfectly fine with lower amount of motor speed steps because delays in motor reaction smoothen them anyway and the flight code these days is just good enough to work with that. Again that is theoretical and if you have the motors anyway I suggest you to just try it. Worst case 2750kv has weird issues and you buy new motors. Also, as I have some 2750kv motors, I will include them in my testing to see if I can spot anything wrong when scaling them for low kv 6S.

[@bolts5372]

@@ErgoFPV Thanks for the replying I find it a really interesting topic. I have not purchased the 2750kv motors yet might hold fire for the time being. I'm just stock up for the year and seen the 2750 xings at a good price. Looking forward to your testing.

[@masslona]

Great video man! Very informative and usefull! Really well done also! 👏💪

[@doktordrone]

Thank you 👍👍🤩👍👍

[@shpazhist]

Ништяк хобби Нашёл твой канал через интервью у Синьора-помидора софтваре влогера

[@ErgoFPV]

Хобби вообще огонь! Время ест только так, и деньги периодически тоже. Но зато много интересных граней - постройка коптеров, пилотирование, теория и конфигурирование, съемка и редактирование видео, и еще 3D печать. При желании и программирование можно притянуть - софт на полётном контроллере опенсорсный.

[@andihamzah3148]

Nice information for me.. let me asking one thing, what will happen if I use throttle limit on my taranis, without changing profile in betaflight like u do in the video?

[@andihamzah3148]

FYI, im an revoltosd user, and i cant find profile auto select like you do in betaflight 4.1

[@ErgoFPV]

Hey. So you definitely need something like motor output limit, and setting throttle limit on your taranis is not enough. The flight controller will still be able to use 100% motor power when doing flips or rolls, so unfortunate things might happen if you run a high KV motor on 6S like that. I’m not a Flight One person, but apparently FalcoX has the needed feature. Confusingly enough they call it “motor throttle limit”, and you set it up via the flight controller OSD menu. Check out this Wild Willy’s video kzbin.info/www/bejne/iWa2ZHh_fNaDepo

[@barraca1393]

But can we do the oposite, can we increase the kv of the motors on Betaflight?

[@ErgoFPV]

Sadly, no. Betaflight modulates battery voltage to simulate lower KV, but it can’t increase the voltage to simulate higher KV. You can, though by going to a higher voltage battery if components of the quad support that.

[@neilfpv]

Thanks for this awesome tutorial. I looked at my "Power&Battery" tab in BetaFlight Configurator. The "Maximum Cell Voltage" is currently set to 4.3. Should I still change it to 4.4?

[@ErgoFPV]

You’re welcome! Voltage detection is not very accurate on some flight controllers, and sometimes it reads a bit higher value just as you connect the battery. That might cause Betaflight to think it is a terribly discharged 5S instead of a 6S pack that you plugged in and that would mess the profile selection. Setting the Max cell voltage to 4.4 leaves a bit more slack for the voltage reading inaccuracy, so I recommend doing that.

[@neilfpv]

Got it! Thank you so much for the very detailed explanation! 👍

[@fercase7]

hello i need invert the situation , i have drone 6s but batterie 4s . are you help me? - Torre de vôo: SucceX-E mini F4 FC + 35A BLHeli32 4 in 1 ESC + 300mW VTX - Motor: XING 1408 6S 2800KV Tattu 4S 1300S

[@ErgoFPV]

Hey. Unfortunately the reverse doesn’t work. The ESC just modulates the battery voltage, so it can go lower and emulate lower KV values, but it can’t go higher. You can try buying the steepest propellers out there (with very high pitch) to compensate a bit, but it would be just a bit. To make it go full power you either need the right battery, or motors with the right KV.

[@jjenningsoh]

Thanks 🙏🏻

[@gubrathwatches]

Is there any performance difference running 4s high kv versus 6s with motors limited?

[@ErgoFPV]

Theoretically there shouldn't be any performance downside. I want to verify it practically though so I'm currently designing a proper test. It is far from being complete as of now, but I will share the results as soon as I'm done.

[@gubrathwatches]

@@ErgoFPV thanks. I take it though when running 6s the overall amp draw is lower than compared to 4s?

[@ErgoFPV]

@@gubrathwatches correct.

[@Victor90NOR]

perfect! Thank you

[@iainjack9249]

did you need to add capacitors or upgrade the capacitors to run 6s? if you added higher rated capacitors did this affect the quad when using 4s batteries?

[@ErgoFPV]

I was already running a 6s compatible capacitor on that build. Higher rated capacitors don’t have any practical downsides if you run them at lower voltage.

[@iainjack9249]

@@ErgoFPV many thanks! great video and easy to follow . i have setup mine using your guide. i also notice you did not have the mah entered on your batttery section of betaflight but the mah's is predent for 4s and 6s on your fpv footage. mine is set to 1550 at the moment for my 4s but my new 6s battery is 1300mah. do you have any advice to keep the current sensor accurate?

[@ErgoFPV]

​@@iainjack9249 thank you, I'm happy you found the video useful! If I understood you correctly, you're referring to that "Capacity (mAh)" setting on the battery tab in the configurator. That setting is the warning threshold and it doesn't affect current sensing calibration. Even if you have the warning threshold set to zero, you still get the current measured and displayed via OSD. The accuracy of the amp readings is not affected by voltage, so you don't need to recalibrate the sensor. But if you wanted one warning threshold for 4S and a different one for 6S - I'm afraid you can't have that in Betaflight. I do something similar on my radio however - my receiver supports telemetry so I get battery voltage and spent mAh sent to the radio, and I have the radio configured to start saying the spent mAh every 10 seconds after a certain threshold. The way it's done is similar to what JB does here for the low voltage readouts kzbin.info/www/bejne/aKnXZ2Vpi6aAe80 What I added on top was a bit more logic so it chooses the threshold depending on the voltage it sees from the battery (basically, higher than 18V - it uses the 6S threshold, otherwise 4S).

[@isaacsccc]

Bro i need help, i just bought geprc mark4 4s on banggood, but i want to use 5s on it, can u help me count what value should i put on betaflight cuz even after watching ur video again and again, im still confused, any help would nice ty

[@ErgoFPV]

Hey, sure. So the key thing to settle on is the target KV value which you kind of have to know, and that is somewhat of a blind spot of this video of mine. But I think we can make it pretty simple - according to the website the geprc mark4 for 4S has 2450KV motors and for 6S - 1850KV. That means for 5S the KV would be between the two, i.e. (2450 - 1850) / 2 + 1850 = 2150. So your target is 2150KV. Plugging that into the formula at 4:15 you get 87% (2150KV / 2450KV x 100) , and that is your desired motor output limit. You can use that with the rest of CLI commands in the video. By the way, I haven't checked if the hardware on mark4 4s is compatible with 5s, so that's on you. Not to say it's not, I just haven't checked but wanted to give you a friendly reminder so you don't fry the thing in case geprc decided to use different hardware for 4S and 6S versions. Cheers!

[@isaacsccc]

@@ErgoFPV thank you so muchhh for helping me, but for now ill try to digest all the information first, i hope i can contact u later on this comment section in case i don’t understand smth, plus i tot leaving a comment here would probably help someone in future tht going into the hobby, thank you again broo🙏🤝🔥🔥

[@ErgoFPV]

@@isaacsccc you're welcome! Feel free to ask more questions

[@realKokeny]

Hey, great video, keep up the hard work, but I am not sure if I can use this method if RPM Filter is enabled on my quad.

[@ErgoFPV]

Thanks! RPM filter works perfectly fine with motor output limit, I fly my quads like that. When RPM filter is enabled ESCs measure the actual RPMs of the motors to base the filter frequency on. RPMs are always RPMs, regardless of motor KV, battery voltage or throttle output limit, so there is no reason for RPM filter not to work.

[@quincypurcell5222]

What esc were you running on the quad in this video? Just curious as mine only has a 35a

[@ErgoFPV]

It was Aikon AK32 V1, also specced for 35A.

[@quincypurcell5222]

@@ErgoFPV OK thank you 🙏 great video BTW

[@noamamir0942]

do you know how this affect efficiency? hows the effiecieny compared to a "true" 6s setup

[@ErgoFPV]

I ran some tests of Hyperlite 2207.5 in 1922KV and 2522KV variants with a throttle limit and got a few insights. Someday I'll release that in a video, but I can share some insights here. 1) Timing and PWM frequency affects the high KV motor on high voltage more than a a low KV motor. 48kHz PWM frequency on the ESC and higher motor timing (28-30) result in higher efficiency and less waste on heat generation. 2) Speaking of efficiency, up to 30-40% throttle 2522KV variant with throttle limit produced exactly the same thrust for throttle position and was even slightly more efficient. In higher throttle range efficiency dropped, and the high KV motor produced less thrust than a "proper" low KV one for the same throttle position. It also consistently ran 2-3 degrees Celsius hotter. At the same time it consumed less current, so efficiency wise it was almost on par with low KV, just 7-8% less powerful. To me the conclusion is high KV + throttle limit is perfectly fine for freestyle, I actually prefer it for the versatility as I can raise the KV even higher to run very shallow props. For racing though, I would recommend proper low KV motors for the power and lower temperatures at high throttle.

[@noamamir0942]

@@ErgoFPV thanks for the insight, did you mean motor output limit when you wrote throttle limit? anyway I just ordered some 6s batts for my 2750kv racing setup, probably still a step in the right direction until I get low kv motors, I don't care as much about 8% power because I cap my throttle to 90% anyway and I can also just change my motor output limit to match a little higher kv in order to get a preformence boost. Just hope I didn't go backwards in preformence because of heavier batts and some power lost in kv conversion. Thanks for the replay, have a good day

[@ErgoFPV]

@@noamamir0942 I meant the output limit. It should be fine, and as you said if necessary you can bring in more power in by changing the output limit. Just watch the motor temperature. And set the PWM frequency to 48kHz, in my tests that was what affected the efficiency and thrust output the most for the motor running with the output limit. You're welcome, have a great day too :)

[@AhmadFPV]

Hi, thanks for that. Is the performance similar to real 6s KV motors?

[@ErgoFPV]

Hey, you're welcome. According to my measurements, up to 30-40% throttle value the performance is identical to true 6S (i.e. low KV) motors. After that high KV motors start losing efficiency the more the higher you go on throttle, reaching 3-4% less thrust at full throttle. All that missing thrust gets converted to heat. So if you fly freestyle and spend most of the time below 40% throttle, you will not really notice a difference. Feel-wise they are exactly the same. But if you want to go racing with long straight lines and go aggressively on throttle - there will be a slight difference in max power, but more importantly more chances to have the motors overheating (didn't stop me though from flying my 5" racers on 6S and 2722KV motors just because I had them 😬 - they still are going strong). Hope this helps.

[@yashasranjan8497]

In the amp reading of the osd, the cruising current was the same for 4s and 6s. Is that true? If it is, then we are sacrificing the efficiency and this method is really not worth it. What do you think?

[@ErgoFPV]

Current sensor wasn’t calibrated, so the actual values are off, but you are right, we can still compare them. They are similar because the 6S battery that I was using for the test was way too heavy for a freestyle quad, so it had to put out more thrust. I just had those 1300 mAh 6S packs at hand, but on that craft I would use something like 1000 mAh 6S or even smaller. The 6S configuration was 62 grams heavier, which was 10% more weight to carry.

[@yashasranjan8497]

Got it👍 So technically a low kv motor on 6s vs high kv motor on 6s (with output limit) will perform and feel the same?

[@ErgoFPV]

I haven’t tried “true” 6S motors on that quad, but my racers are low kv 6S, and running high kv with a limit gives the same feeling of extra power down low that is characteristic to 6S. So as far as I can tell high kv with throttle limit does feel the same as low kv. But it’s a good idea for the next video on the topic - get the same motors in 6S and see if true low kv gives any noticeable difference.

[@yashasranjan8497]

@ErgoFPV yes that would be epic! This will solve the doubts of many people as there is no single article or video discussing about the effects and 'feel' of high kv 6s. Also if you do this, don't forget to add the efficient data of these two as that will be a key factor in deciding if it is worth it !

[@marizatiablae]

Last question: the target KV... you say that you have to decide which target you prefer (in your video 1750KV), but isn't it better to determine the target KV dividing you actual motors KV for 1.5 where 1.5 is the power of 1 cell of 6s compared to 4s? for example... 2500kv on 4s is equal to 1.666 Kv on 6s (2500 / 1.5) ... and then you divide 1.666/2500x100 and you get 66% which is the value for your motors? am i wrong?

[@ErgoFPV]

Thank you! Answering all three: Currently I’m setting up a more scientific experiment regarding 4S motors on 6S vs a true 6S motor. It will take some time though. So far everything I found theoretically suggests there should be now downside to running high kv motors on high voltage with a limit besides motor throttle control resolution. Dshot provides 2048 steps for motor power control, and motor output limit chops off the top third. The rest is still more steps than radios have, but it might affect the flight code a bit. How bad is that influence? What about efficiency? I have no data yet, so take that theoretical conclusions with a grain of salt. As for flying a low kv motor on 4S, I would only do that if I had a good proximity spot that did not require full power from time to time. 6S on 4S will be slower, and if you are fine with that - go with the 6S version, it is more future proof. But if you want to absolutely shred it on those 4S packs, the 6S version is probably not the right choice. What you said regarding target kv is not wrong, but you can actually make it even simpler. RPMs are KV times voltage. 4 is 67% of 6, so to bring your 4S motors kv down proportionally you can just set the limit to 67 without any calculation. I wanted to give the audience the formula because with that you can actually move the target kv according to your needs. For example, you can use a very light low pitch prop for improved throttle control precision and still have the top speed by upping the target kv to 1900.

[@marizatiablae]

ErgoFPV thank you very much mate for all the answer and the quick reply. Can’t wait for that test you’re running. ❤️

[@alaingosselin8764]

Right on man! 👍got a new sub !👌

[@OnepackFpv]

Do you copy rateprofiles also? And do you keep rpm filters the same for 6s? Thank you.

[@ErgoFPV]

Rateprofiles are independent from (PID) profiles, so no need to copy them. The RPM filter is also independent from battery voltage and motor output limit. In my case it flew just fine with exactly the same filtering settings on 4S and 6S, but I can imagine there might be a need to adjust PIDs or filters on some builds, especially if the KV that is stated in motor specs is different from what the actual KV is. Otherwise the motors output the same RPMs on 6S and 4S and for the flight controller there is no difference. One other thing I can think of is the ESC performance. Some ESCs might be particularly noisy and require larger capacitors installed on the battery leads when using 6S batteries. Mine (Aikon AK32) flew fine with just a 470uF cap. You're welcome.

[@dittobimaputra]

Hi bro. This is super great video. When you used 6s how was your temp of 4s motor? is it quite hot or warm or warm ++ 😂??

[@ErgoFPV]

Hey, thank you! I haven’t noticed any motor temperature difference between 4S and 6S. They were just slightly warm.

[@sobstvenno]

Слушай, я не понял. Вот есть мотор, условно 2522kv на 4s. Как ты пересчитал на 6s, откуда цифра 1750? Вот у меня мотор 5500kv на 3s. Как его на 4s пересчитать?

[@ErgoFPV]

1750 KV - типичное значение KV для пятидюймовых пропеллеров на 6S. Подсмотреть его можно или у готовых коптеров того же веса и с тем же размером пропеллеров, как у тебя - которые продают в интернете, или на rotorbuilds.com. Есть второй путь, о котором я не рассказал в видео, но он довольно простой. Если коптер хорошо летает с 5500KV на 3S, ты можешь пересчитать KV на 4S так, чтобы моторы выдавали те же обороты. Нужно KV умножить на количество банок, на которых ты сейчас летаешь и поделить на количество банок, на которых ты хочешь летать. Т.е. 5500KV * 3 / 4 = 4125KV. Смысл в том, что обороты пропорциональны напряжению, а напряжение пропорционально количеству банок.

[@sobstvenno]

@@ErgoFPV о, так до меня дошло, спасибо!

[@Oderwat]

Thank you!

[@MCgranat999]

Soo… if I'm building new 6S quad should I buy 2500KV and do this or just buy 1700KV?

[@ErgoFPV]

If you're buying motors anyway, go for 1700KV. They will run cooler, give more thrust at mid- to high throttle and have better efficiency. If you already _have_ 2500KV motors, you can run them on 6S with the advice in the video and still get decent performance. Otherwise there isn't much reason to go for 2500KV on 6S.

[@MCgranat999]

​@@ErgoFPV I'm just thinking about what if I'm flying with someone and I need to borrow a pack, or if I decide to buy 4S in the future since they're cheaper. But I guess I won't borrow 4S batteries from anyone anytime soon. Thanks for the lightning fast response time!

[@ErgoFPV]

You're welcome! To be honest, I would not go back to 4S after trying 6S for both freestyle and racing. Yeah, I can't borrow 4S packs and I have to spend a bit more on 6S ones, but it's totally worth it.

[@dnafpv]

Thanks dude

[@KwadLife]

Awesome comparison and topic! 👍👍How about flighttime?

[@ErgoFPV]

Thanks! While filming the comparison the flight time on 6S felt a bit shorter, but that is because I absolutely thrashed it trying to see if I can push it to misbehave. With that 60 grams heavier 6S power nugget it required throttle to be opened for much longer to get to the speed typical for my lightweight 4S setup. With a smaller battery I think the flight time could be even longer than on 4S since motors do not have to go into the high rpms band where efficiency is lower. Wild Willy is also doing this and did not report any differences in flight time compared to "true" 6S motors.

[@KwadLife]

Thanks man! 👍👍

[@FlyingSID]

Thanks man 😍😍

[@FlyingSID]

Had set of 2500kv F 60 t motor lying around on my desk, now it goes into my Freestyle setup , would you recommend these settings for Race setup ,ideally it shud but still thought of pitching up the question 😅😅

[@ErgoFPV]

Sorry I haven't replied earlier. So I have researched the high KV high voltage topic for a while now, and it seems like the only downside to running high KV motor on 6S with an output limit is lower motor throttle resolution caused by chopping off the top of the throttle band. DShot allows for 2048 steps in motor throttle position, so if you apply a 30% motor output limit it will be reduced to about 1400. That is more steps than our radios produce for the stick inputs, so throttle resolution on the stick should not get affected, but the flight controller will be just a tiny bit less precise with motor power commands. Theoretically that might affect the tune, but probably just a tiny bit because I haven't noticed anything personally. There are also contradicting opinions I found online as to what happens to the motor efficiency when an output limit is applied to a high KV one. I'm currently setting up more experiments with high and low KV versions of the same motor noting the efficiency, and I will try running high KV motors on a 6S racing setup as well, so another video with more details is coming. As for your question - I don't see problems putting those F60s on a 6S racing rig with an output limit. Just watch the motor temperature and bring the output limit even lower if they tend to overheat. Motor manufacturers don't state the actual KV, what they put in the specs is the "target KV", so those motors in reality can be higher KV than 2500. So watch the temperature. Side note: an interesting possibility is to put a very low pitch prop on that racing rig, like the latest Gemfan 51433, and reduce the output limit to put them in the area of 1900-2000 "virtual" KV. You might end up having more throttle resolution and control because of the low pitch of the prop, but still have enough top speed because of the high KV. Just thinking out loud.

[@nicksfpv]

Thanks!

[@birdhz]

do this not burn 2500 kv motor with 6s ?

[@ErgoFPV]

I’m still flying my freestyle build exactly as shown in the video, with 2522 kv motors on 6s, and they’re doing just fine. The thing is though, this setup is less efficient when you go above roughly 40% throttle, and lost efficiency is converted to heat. In my estimation at full throttle it’s about 8% of electrical power. So if you’re flying typical flippy-floppy freestyle, this setup works just fine as you don’t go 100% throttle very often and motors have time to cool down. If you want to race, or fly very intense high-speed freestyle, or your build weighs a lot - this setup would be running with hot motors. They won’t go up in smoke immediately as you blip the throttle - one of my racing builds runs 2722 kv on 6s, but on a hot day you would want to be careful and check the motor temperature from time to time. I fly with this setup because I still have those motors and some spares from the time when I was flying 4s, but when I finally destroy them, I’m going to switch to the proper low kv ones.

[@birdhz]

@@ErgoFPV ok i just fly cruising never 100% throttle .i don't want to trash my5x 6s i will try this tomorrow thanks you

[@MarioATEFPV]

Good stuff on your YT:-) subbed!!

[@healharm9210]

i set the quad but i have to buy a voltage regulator thanx a lot!

[@YuriuSSS]

profile 0, set auto_profile_cell_count = 4, set motor_output_limit = 100, please write this commands in to the description

[@threebladestory3679]

Tq i need thus tutorial...

[@TheCoreys]

Will this work on INAV?

[@ErgoFPV]

I have never tried it myself, but quick googling didn't yield anything regarding motor output limit on INAV. Tough luck for INAV I guess.

[@246rs246]

what flytime u have on 6s?

[@ErgoFPV]

With that exact setup it depends on how hard I am pushing it. The quad is 10% heavier with that 1300 mAh 6S but the battery stores 50% more energy. With 1300 mAh 4S I get about 3 and a half minutes of non-stop hardcore acro or 7 minutes of cruising. With that huge 1300 mAh 6S I get around 3 minutes of hardcore acro (so less than on 4S and it also feels weird because of added weight), but I can cruise for almost ten minutes. The 6S setup is not ideal, it needs smaller batteries. The closest equivalent would be an 850 mAh 6S, but there aren't many of them available on the market so I might get a heavier 1000 mAh 6S. Still 20-30 grams heavier than I like my quad to be, but somewhat compensated by better throttle response down low.

[@246rs246]

@@ErgoFPV thx for help, I'll stay with 4s 😎

[@qcrctv2409]

I should I seen this before buying a new motor and upgrading my 4s quad :(

[@JaraFPV]

why -1?

[@ErgoFPV]

To have something different from the default that is 0. If you switch to a profile with the setting of 0, automatic profile selection is completely turned off until you manually switch to another profile. I just felt it wasn’t great leaving that sort of a trap open so I included setting the third profile to -1 which doesn’t block the automatic selection from working. Otherwise it isn’t doing anything.

[@JaraFPV]

@@ErgoFPV oh OK that's good then. So whenever you plugged in a battery other than 4S or 6S, it will automatically switch to P3

[@ErgoFPV]

@@JaraFPV exactly.

[@fpvdronekim7873]

Nice cool friend🤔👊👊 +271

[@NOT_ANOTHER_FPV]

I just did this! Yay...with that said I was running 1404 motors at 2700kv or so... that last a couple minutes...now all 4 motors are fried :) so yeah don't try this.

[@NOT_ANOTHER_FPV]

PS NOT YOUR FAULT -