I made TL rims on Africa Twin in 2009, with SIKAFLEX, and they still work.

Any update on this? How did it hold up?

What was the issue then? 😁 I'm having the same noise with the stock (not really worn out yet) pads...

Mine came loose today 17500km

Also having the same problem with my cb 500 x when i have my topcase on it, I have new tires cause the bike is still new only dobne 4000km and when i dont have the top case its all good but with the top case at around 50-70km/h does this wobble thing, did you find any solution ???

Super helpful video. I am really curious about sliming your rack cage. Do you have video on that? Could you kindly elaborate on this? Many thanks

So ditching it because you can't tie the rear down to a T7... and the fact that you bring dirt into hotels .... got it. I personally love the Reckless on my Super Tenere 🥰

Anyone watching this thread, the guy in a comment from two years ago said it failed. He then replaced the tape area that leaked through a nipple and used two layers of tape. No comment about how long that repair lasted.

I am torn but as far as the expense people keep mentioning, i don’t know of any of this luggage that is cheap and that isn’t absolute junk.

wow, done. Thanks. Michal from the Czech Republic

You guys are awesome. I thought I couldn't buy the T7 before doing some serious weight lifting training. I'm otherwise fit, so using these techniques, I should be good to pick up the T7 all day long. Thanks so much!

We need to create a portable jack for big bike that we can carry all the time

You could run the oem rim tape over the 3M for a bit of protection

How thick is the outex outer protective tape? 3M have thicker 4412n tape up to 2.3mm

Thx for this video - I find those first hand videos of actualy users so much more helpful than all this "review" videos.. I am also currently researching into luggage systems for my KTM 8790 SMT, but all of them seem to have some sort of issues.. One thing though I know for sure is that whatever I carry at the back NEEDS to be smaller in width than my handle bar in front. That's mandatory for me. Other than that I'd consider anything, but run into the same considerations: With Kriega I am afraid I won't like taking the bags on and off (too much dealing with straps too I guess) and also I have to bring them into hotel rooms when they are messed up and dirty, which I think I really don't like. On the other hand I thought Mosko kit would solve that, but then you say the dry bags get dirty too, AND it's tricky to get them in and out... So back to square one... Maybe Kriega bags and using some generic inner bag? Another option might be using a rack with very narrow paniers like Kriega's OS-22s / 32s? I also couldn't find any comparison video in all of youtube comparing Kriega's OS-BASE kits with the Mosko reckless kits - which I was very surprised to find out...

What should one do if there's no luggage rack (i.e. you use saddle bag)?

I tried "backwards lifting", I always found that it is impossible to lift the bike just with the power of my legs because either my arms are too short, or my bum is too big! The tenere is specially difficult because it doesnt hafe any handles fitted to the rear ... that means your bum gets even closer to the bike and is in the way when you wana lift

I changed the standard 15 for a 17 teeth sprocket on my 2020 Yamaha Tenere! best modification ever ... I can still ride almost everything in 3rd gear offroad and onroad! 1st and 2nd are only for uphill starts / uphill offroad and very slow riding onroad. The big benefit is the reduced RPM in 5th on B-roads and in 6th gear on the motorway. The engine has so much low and mid range power (aka "torque") the 15-sprocket just doesnt make sense to me.

Its funny to see my native language there :D Greetings from czechia ;)

Drip feed engine oil onto your inner cable, it'll suck it in, use an oiler. When it gets out of the other side is done.

You are a thinking problem solver cheers

Oh salt! I thought the adhesive was reacting with the aluminum. My 90% road application in a low road salt area should fare much better. Thanks for the follow up video.

Thank you well illustrated on the subject.

Viva Czechia

This was fantastic

My back is twinging just watching this video.... 😮😮

This reflects the salty conditions it was used in and the poor anodisation / surface treatment of the stock rim and spokes. That corrosion could have been even more widespread if in a tubed configuration. I would suggest a good set of Excel rims would be the best solution here, and reapply a new Outex kit. I am not a metalurgist but I suspect stainless spoke nipples might help as well. Something I haven't tried myself yet is to use an anode to balance the wheels rather than lead or brass weights. I might try this to see if it helps.

Engaging the front brake with the bike on its side will most likely introduce air into the brake line.

Wasn’t installed correctly. If the nipples are not grinded, it creates an air pocket that keeps heating up, expand and progressively weaken the outex. The small patches wouldn’t have helped because of the nipple bulge, which is close to the rim edge. If the nipples are flush with the wheel, the patches, then the outex would have held

You have offered quite the practical perspective. I’ve always thought that the Reckless 80 didn’t do much to lessen the weight and you just confirmed my thoughts. But, the points you made about the hassle of loading those dry bags into the holsters is eye opening and makes a lot of sense. I have a set of X Country panniers that the Rolling Hobo used, they’re from Poland and I like them a lot but the opening could be just a bit bigger. I also have a set of Enduristan Blizzard panniers that are also great but the only issue with the set that I have is I bought the medium instead of the large or extra large that they sell. The Blizzards fit tight to the bike and they don’t flop around. But, without a doubt the best bags that I’ve ever owned are the first gen Magadan panniers from Adventure Spec. The Magadan’s are tough as nails, have dry bag inserts with wide openings for accessibility, two external pockets front & back, and the best thing that I like about them is they are lockable with the use of Steel Core straps. I can’t tell how much piece of mind it is to get off of the bike in strange place when you need to run into a shop or stop for lunch somewhere and know that your soft luggage is locked up. That’s not to say that someone with bad intentions couldn’t cut through the bags if left unattended for some period of time but, you get my point. The Magadan’s do require a rack, though. ✌🏾

After a longer trip to Nordkap with Rack-mounted Kriega-bags on my Ténéré 700, I found the rack solution to be too wide, sold it and bought the Reckless 80. Tried it for a 2 day camping trip - only to find out that it is not made for long distance travel - the bags don't slide in as shown in the merch videos (when fully packed, even empty its difficult), which is my greatest complaint - other than than, 1001 straps to tighten. Still want to stay reckless, but the reckless 80 is up for sale. Great review!

Hey! Did they take your voucher or they just looked at it and gave it back to you? Or did they like studied it alot?

So. I made a classic failure and knowing what I know now, it will not happen again. But, I checked and then removed the exhaust shims. The left side first which was a bit difficult and I was worried about losing a shim but more because how strong the magnet was. To make it easier to remove the right side i thought it best to turn the crankshaft a bit as I did it, the two other exhaust shims went flying. One landed a full 3 feet away and the other, well that is the issue. I cannot find it. I had a full garbage bag full of stuff and emptied it but no luck. I drained the oil and filter. So, I got an endoscope (good camera) and can look around every where. Of course now I can see if you leave the plugs in and cover the cam chain area you can probably get a dropped shim easily but the cam chain area is a different story. So I used the scope and magnet all over the valve cover area and nothing. And the same for the cam chain area. Nothing. I have tried a vacuum and a compressor to blow but no luck. I removed the clutch cover and endoscoped and magnet through there and no luck. leaned the bike way over and did the same with compressor but nothing. I have turned the bike engine over with the rear wheel (with the plugs out) and everything spins and no binding. Drained the oil... SO. I don't think I am going to drain rad fluid and turn bike upside down securing it from above. I am at the point now where I am going to pour some oil down from the top, maybe spray it with a small pressure bottle. It seems to me I can see just about everywhere it could be except behind the camshaft bottom sprocket that I am very reluctant to remove. I am thinking the next steps, after flushing with some lightweight oil, will be to re-assemble turn over and start and then slowly go through the gears. I have probably looked for about 6 hours just at the valve cover area and clutch, with about 6 hours searching and cleaning the garage. Probably, just looking for some sympathy. ps. This is a great video. .

I know it have been couple years since this posting. But, I had some questions. The Outex instructions seems to state Do Not overlap either tape layers. Cut a 30-40 mm. splice for the joints where both ends of the tape meet flush. So do I have it correct and does is matter which way ( direction ) you apply the tapes to wheel?

Thank you for the information, this was very helpful

Дякую Вам!

Mmmmm - this has got me thinking. I've been using tubeless on my mountain bikes for years and always wondered why motorbike tyres couldn't be run the same way. Many on MTBs just use gorilla tape instead of the expensive specific sealant tape they sell in bike shops. But MTBs don't have the same stresses and strains of a motorbike I guess. So I like the idea of the 3M tape but then why not put a layer of gorilla tape over that to protect the 3M tape? Also why not put some sealant in the tyre like Muck-Off Tubeless Sealant? That would if needed work its way into the spoke holes and seal the rim better. You also obviously have a puncture sealant solution in the tyre as well to potentially seal a puncture on the road. The issue for me is getting the tyre off on the trail. if you tear the tyre or has a hole that can't be plugged then you have to put an inner tube in. But TL tyres can be impossible to get off the rim, especially if you ride alone and can't use someone's side stand to break the seal. Finally long videos are good if it gives you useful info - short videos that lack detail are pointless! So many thanks. regards, Mike

Always wear sandals with your 550# top heavy bikes..mmkay ?

I guess the scotts one is way bether then this one just beecose of the installation process

First off, the Outex instructions call for grinding down the factory nipples which he didn't do. Second we have no idea how well he prepped the surface pf the rim prior to application. Since he didn't grind the spokes I have to assume that he didn't properly prep the rim either!

So if you're concerned with damaging the 3M tape you could clean the factory rubber rim strip and stretch it over the tape before installing the tire...

What about 2 Layers of tape? First, with drilled holes at the nipples and the second as a total as it is? The first layer with the holes, would compensate the hight of the nipples

Thanks for this series of videos on the T7, they are really useful and well thought out.

Thinking about getting Tenere for my first bike but I'm the opposite - normal height but too skinny -183cm 65kg. Any chance I'd manage to pick it up at least few times in mud? Sadly I don't know anyone with such a tall bike to try myself.

Where did you get the tenere 700 sweatshirt?!😮

Excellent review. Thank you.

Durability in crashes=moskomoto, ease of removal or locking=moskomoto back country.

great advice Guys, maybe I will go with the heavier bike now..

The high front / low back combination - I see that on a T700 and it just smacks of being a styling thing and nothing more, which is fair enough if you’re honest about why you’re doing it, but the reality is that it’s the worst of both worlds. The back will clog. The front will cause the front to feel weird at speed (it sure always did on my enduro bikes at speed) as it flaps around. Go one or the other.

Just got Bartubeless done on my bike, can't wait to try it out