Yes. Here's a link. rainwaterequipment.com/search.php?search_query=Y-strainer

It's not required (there is a small one built in), but it's ok to add one if you wish. They can be beneficial to help with thermal expansion when older hot water heaters are in use. They can also be useful in applications where your system is calling for small amounts of water over and over again many times making the pump turn on/off, on/off, on/off, like with a swimming pool auto-refill system or a drip irrigation system as examples. The rule of thumb is to set the pressure on the expansion tank at about 15 PSI below the pressure set point on the pump.

@@GetYurMindRite 1) you either want to install a low point drain so you can dump the conveyance pipe during freezing temps, or you may wrap heat trace tape around it. In most cases, it’s uncommon for 4 inch schedule 40 PVC pipe to freeze, but it can happen. 2) Rainwater is most commonly made potable with a UV system. In most cases, clients, use a sediment filter, carbon filter, and a UV light to make the Rainwater potable. We stock those systems, and you may find them on our website at rainwaterequipment.com

If you have a way to dead head it against a closed valve, try that, and see if it keeps happening. If it stops, then you likely have water dripping or leaking somewhere downstream...or a running toilet. If you don't have a shut-off valve on the pump's discharge, try installing one, and do the test. You may also want to open the priming port just a bit while the pump is running to make sure there's not air trapped inside the pump.

@@rainwaterequipmentllc7835I have the exact same issue as the prior comment. While water is running the Pump will run up to set point and shutoff, drops the RP value, kicks back on gets to set point, runs its time at set point and shuts off. Does this no matter how much flow I run, one faucet in the house on or all of them. Only issue I can see is that while is running or disabled, it is flashing 0.0 gpm. So only thing I can think of is that the internal flow meter has gone bad? Pump hits set point, sees no flow as if all demand has been shut off so it runs for a couple seconds at set point and then shuts off, sees the pressure drop and then starts the cycle again. Any ideas on this would be helpful. I haven’t found any forums addressing this issue.

@@ryanandrews6115 Not sure on this one. Try contacting DAB Tech Support. dabpumps.us/ Contacts link in the footer.

I don't think this type of float switch will work well inside an 8" pipe, although I suppose it might. It needs room to pivot up/down. It's better suited for a storage tank. You're probably better off with a small float that slides up/down on a stainless steel rod. We don't carry that style, but there should be something like it available online.

Yes. In fact, that's what I'm doing in the video.

@@rainwaterequipmentllc7835 so i have power connected to the 301 but when i plug it in it goes straight to the no contact red light. Am i doing something wrong perhaps?

Try setting the pressure on your other, larger pressure tank at 15 PSI below the set pressure of the ESYBOX Mini to see if that resolves the looseness and lag in the start time. For more info, you may also review pages 43, 60 and 62 in the manual to see more info on "elastic" and "elasticity". rainwaterequipment.com/content/documentation/E.SYBOX-mini3-manual.pdf

@@rainwaterequipmentllc7835 Thank you very much for your kind comment and my apologies if my English is not the best. I think I didn't explain myself well. What I wanted to say is that with the extra tank, the Esybox works much better, the start and stop demands are much less, result: I am very happy. I had problems with the electronic board at first, but the representative responded immediately by changing the product (it had only been used for a month). Installing a voltage regulator solved the problem. A cordial greeting.

No, but the latest version, part # 60212610 comes with integrated wireless capability. rainwaterequipment.com/esybox-mini-3-on-demand-constant-pressure-variable-speed-pump/

I suppose it’s possible, but a loud noise may indicate that debris may have made its way into the pump if you didn’t have some sort of pre-filter before it. Typically, that’s not necessary though if the water is clean, city water coming in. It’s more common in a rainwater or well water system.

​@@rainwaterequipmentllc7835i realize that the pump gets noisy (creaky noise not normal) after it streams over 18-20lt/min. The water is city clean water.

I can't argue with you there. I spent 45 minutes working with one the other night and was finally able to connect it and adjust the max pressure. You must use the IR connection method and watch for the red light to blink rapidly. That lets you know that the data is transferring. Once that finishes, you can toggle Max Pressure on. Then set it to your actual desired max PSI. Good luck.

I'm not following what you're saying. If it leaks on the suction side, you probably need to disconnect it and rewrap the the threads with fresh thread tape (5-6 wraps). If you're using stainless steel fittings, you need to use tape made for stainless steel threads, or they will leak. Again, wrap SS thread tape 5-6 times.

@@rainwaterequipmentllc7835 Thank you very much for your insight I appreciate it

It sounds like the check valve isn't sealing properly. Please use this video as a guide to check the valve for debris.

Ill give that a go and thanks so much for your prompt reply!​@@rainwaterequipmentllc7835

If you still need assistance, please call us at 877-331-7008.

I don’t know of any of our clients who have done that with this pump, but they have used smaller versions of the ESYLINE pumps to lift water. While it does have the ability to lift a maximum of 26 feet, I don’t ever like to test the limits of a pump’s lifting capability. It’s my understanding that it will significantly reduce the flow rate if it must lift the water before pushing it.

No.

Depending on what part of the country the tank is in, there may only be a few inches of ice that forms in the top of the tank during sub freezing temperatures over several days. It typically would require temperatures to be in the 20s for many days before ice would begin to form on a tank of this size. Then, of course, as temperatures increase, the ice will melt leaving the tank without damage. Tanks in colder climates may be equipped with insulated board between the liner and the steel walls to mitigate freezing.

Yes to both questions, although the CMBE 1-44 may have a long lead time. The DAB ESYBOX MINI 3 would likely be a better option if you need something right away. rainwaterequipment.com/esybox-mini-3-on-demand-constant-pressure-pump/

Sorry, but we don't handle the DAB swimming pool pumps. You'll want to contact a nearby dealer for assistance. And since you mentioned "cubic meters per hour", I'll assume you aren't in North America. Start your search here: www.dabpumps.com/en

If it’s been working fine, I probably wouldn’t change it now, but yes, you were supposed to change the configuration for the city water pressure coming in.

@@rainwaterequipmentllc7835 yes. It’s been working perfectly for 5 years. The location my cabin is in and the way the water is ran we basically had zero pressure. It would barely pour out of the faucets. I could pee a bigger stream lol. I never even messed with the settings. I unboxed it. Hooked it up. Plugged it up and forgot about it. What about that plug on the back with oil can logo? I just noticed it the other day is why I started doing searches on it now. I’m happy to see all the positive stuff about this pump tho. I did zero research and honestly had very low expectations Are you suppose to add oil or change it at all? It’s a black plug on the very back bottom corner

well that sucks. Is the thread NPT?

Yes. 1" NPT@@vo2098

do you have a tutorial for adjusting the bar pressure ? it's not just a case of pressing arrow up or down. A adjustment must be made behind the panel next to the display screen.

@@daveking777 hold down the mode and set button simultaneously for about 3-4 seconds, and then you will be able to increase or decrease the pressure with the up-and-down arrow.

@@rainwaterequipmentllc7835 the factory setting of the dab mini is set at 3bar in the uk. i was led to believe you have to open the panel to the left of the lcd screen and adjust the valve below the no return valve. It's not just a case of adjust the arrows first ??

The DTRON 2 and 3 are not "constant pressure" pumps. But they are "on demand" pumps. If you need a submersible pump that is also "constant pressure", I suppose you could use the DAB ESYBOX Diver, but for an evaporative cooler, you should probably use an expansion tank between the pump and the cooler to act as a buffer. 1st time we have ever been asked this question.

@@rainwaterequipmentllc7835 thank you for answering

We are not well water experts when it comes to iron in the water, but we can say with some amount of confidence that the iron will make its way into the pump and may shorten the life of any pump over time by weakening the seals and potentially causing the pump to leak at some point. Depending on the level of the iron in the water, it may have an impact on the performance of the pump, but whether this occurs in 6 months, 10 years, or longer is difficult for to say. That being said, people use these pumps in well water applications all the time with success, but we couldn't say with any amount of certainly what the level of iron content is in these users' well water applications. Sorry we couldn't be of any real help in this area. Try searching online for competent sources on this specific topic. You're sure to find some relevant and helpful content. Good luck!

It depends on the flow rate that you’re wanting. For 8 - 10 GPM, we recommend this constant pressure, variable speed pump. It allows you to set the PSI where you want it. And it will run off of 115V or 230V. rainwaterequipment.com/esybox-mini-3-on-demand-constant-pressure-pump/ For 15 to 20 GPM, we recommend this 230V one. rainwaterequipment.com/dab-esybox-electronic-water-pressure-system/

No. Sorry.

Is the pump boosting city water pressure, or is the inlet of the pump being flooded with water from an above ground storage tank?

@@rainwaterequipmentllc7835I’m having the same issue, city water in this case.

We are still using that same pump in that same location. We’ve had no issues with it and have been very happy with the performance. The Scala 2 pump from Grundfos has been improved, and it is performing much better than in years past.

@@rainwaterequipmentllc7835 Scala2 should be improved because it's a very good pump if not for its shortcomings. I will also consider the Esybox mini 3 based on your review and assessment. Thanks.

The overflow is shown on the top/left of the tank in the video. The tank includes a 1 inch outlet that feeds a booster pump that is not shown in this particular video.

No. CMBE 5-62 is not offered as a Twin.

The only way to alter the flow rate is to partially close a shut-off valve on the discharge/outlet of the pump to restrict the flow. And you can set the pressure on the pump pretty much anywhere you like. Just select a PSI between 15-30, and set. Hold down the Mode and Set buttons simultaneously for about 3 secondsn until the PSI level begins to flash, and use the up/down arrows to increase/decrease the PSI. Then press the Set button.

We almost never get snow in Texas. But the heavy rain events will fill it surprisingly quickly when collecting from a roof of substantial size. The multiplier is .62 for every square foot of roof space. For example, 1,000 sqft will yield approx. 620 gallons of water in a 1" rain event. This building is 9,000 sqft. So a 1" rain will produce approx. 5,580 gallons of collection.

It depends on the amount of roof space from which you are collecting. The multiplier is .62 . You multiply .62 x # of square feet being collected. For example, in a 1" rain event, you can collect 620 gallons of water from 1000 sqft of roof. 1000 x .62 = 620. This 500 gallon tank frequently overflows when it rains.

We can customize the length for you when you order. Just choose the length you prefer, and if you need something shorter than 6' please indicate the preferred length in your order notes: rainwaterequipment.com/search.php?search_query=floating You can do it yourself, but it's incredibly difficult to remove the barb that goes inside the hose after it has been fabricated. It would essentially need to be cut out, the hose shortened, then the barb re-installed in the hose. Not an easy task.

Sorry, but this video is for the CU301. We don’t have experience with connecting floats to the CU300.

Do you have a shut off valve installed right after the pump? If not, you should. If so, close the valve, and allow the pump to deadhead the water against a closed valve. If the pump shuts off, there's nothing wrong with the pump. And you either have a leak downstream in your pipe somewhere, or a leaking or running toilet, etc. If not, then yes, try inspecting the check valve (like in the video) for debris.

I have the same problem, I will try to inspect as you said. I will turn back with answer. Thank you!@@rainwaterequipmentllc7835