I see, yeah, it is certainly a unique camera!

I understand it's pretty niche. It's prerelease so we will see if or when they offer firmware updates. I'm keeping it so I will likely use it more in the future. A friend of mine has a a7rV which I'll try to see if it focuses faster on or not. The port is USB-C. USB-A is the large rectangle port that goes into the receiving end like a computer. Micro USB has a long and short side whereas USB-C is symmetric in its outer shape.

Sorry, no. This was many years ago now and I had limited time with the camera.

I see, that's too bad.

Yeah, this is a very basic camera from what I remember. There might be a few settings you can adjust to get more natural photos. Here are two considerations to look at in the online manual: Adjusting "DRO"" helpguide.sony.net/gbmig/45333561/v1/en/contents/TP0000234001.html Picture effect (make sure you are on a normal mode): helpguide.sony.net/gbmig/45333561/v1/en/contents/TP0000234004.html Like you said, and older camera that was more expensive and featured is a better bet a lot of the time. Though digicams like these are a forgotten and neglected type of camera by manufacturers, so I don't think there would be anything remotely in that price range that produces quality photos compared to a recent smartphone outside of needing a long optical zoom. The DSC-W800 came out in 2014 so it's a decade old and it started off as the most budget camera in their lineup.

Thanks for the info. I haven't tried to figure out its history but it does say made in Japan. This lens isn't radioactive at all, so I've kept it. I had an Asahi Super Takumar 50mm f/1.4 for years and I get that people are not super concerned, but 1 mSv/hr I had measured in that older video seemed a bit much in my opinion (measured next to the glass). Anyways, that's another topic, lol. I've considered getting Flickr Pro and loading it up with full or near full resolution examples (as companion content to my videos) and other work like my cosplay photography, but not sure I want to lock myself into paying for decades assuming it continues to exist. Maybe if my channel eventually becomes more successful.

Yeah, as far as I know M42 related to Pentax but I'm not sure if they were the originator. That's why I've gravitated to that mount over others. Even with peaking and 200% zoom-in this lens can be challenging to focus when doing landscape style photos. Focusing closer is easier. At least that's what I remember. I've had these two photowalks on my video work drive for probably around 1 or 2 years, so it was nice to produce something from them. I still have this lens. It's generally a nice one and I like the look of it.

Yes, it's part of the OBS Studio plugin pack offered by Elgato themselves. marketplace.elgato.com/product/obs-studio-35615969-830f-45c9-ba0a-1a295bba7fec

Anecdotal, but the UV filter I had on the Super Takumar 50mm eventually got measurably radioactive. 😄

Glad it was helpful. I'm also a fan of Gudetama! 🥚✨📷

Crop factor depends on the camera being used. In this case the original EOS M is 1.52x. the only other situation to consider is using a "speed booster" focal reducer type adapter.

No idea what you are talking about unless you mean "tagged products" which is a KZbin feature. 🤷

💀

In my case ordered on the 11th and received on the 14th. It looks like the American branch is based in Brooklyn, NY. Good point about reusing packaging. That sounds helpful (and a good reason to buy more camera gear, haha) Yeah, the update process was directly from the PC to the camera. Using a memory card like Nikon does is much easier. I haven't had a chance to do much with the camera at this point. Still don't have a full-frame lens for it.

Oh, yeah, I get what you mean. That is better. I'm just generally not a big fan of the design with the triangle lugs. Some cameras have a metal loop on the camera so the extra piece isn't necessary.

@@ScottJWaldron I know, I'm not sure why it's designed like this. 🤔

I'm glad the video was useful to you. Thanks for stopping by.

I use them on all of my lenses when not testing image quality. It's a convenience thing for me because I don't like dealing with lens caps. I also don't want to deal with cleaning the front element of lenses unless I absolutely have to, so the filter is a big plus for me there as well. Good points about the VND. Yeah, this is not a good one if you plan to use a lens hood. I don't think the tab comes off. It looks to be welded on. The fan thing was... ahh... lol, yeah. The intent was for video and framerate vs. shutter speed vs. aperture (with and without VND) and how it would look different, but I didn't test that out so kind of pointless to have in there.

Nice, it's cool you still enjoy the camera!

I've got quite a few photo walks with vintage lenses on here (getting close to 1000 public videos 😸), but KZbin isn't great at recommending my videos. It's around 15% of my viewership. This is pretty old footage so I don't have the lens anymore but it was pretty nice. Photos from the convention are here (I'll make a video or two eventually but editing is my bottleneck): m.facebook.com/media/set/?vanity=CosplayBanzai&set=a.951383687000881 Thanks for the feedback. 👍

It's been a long time since I've used this lens. I don't think I liked it a lot, but if you use small enough apertures then it might be decent. Though the challenge comes with small apertures, long focal lengths, and the need for higher shutter speeds. This is the remainder of content I made on the lens: An article going into more detail: www.photographybanzai.com/2020/02/trying-canon-100-300mm-again-cold.html Canon 30D with the lens: kzbin.info/www/bejne/j6e4hH2wlLieoNU The lens on Canon EF-M: kzbin.info/www/bejne/r6a7nWRmpNmWn7M

@@ScottJWaldron​​⁠ Thanks for your advice, I will read the article.

I've never used that zoom lens and don't do detailed resolution tests. If you care about those technical aspects then check out websites like "optical limits". They do have a test on a version of the 24-105mm: opticallimits.com/canon/canon-rf-24-105mm-f-4-usm-l-is-review/ As well as a 24mm f/2.8 STM photozone.de/canon-eos/889-canon_24_28stm

I assume enable the clean HDMI setting. helpguide.sony.net/ilc/2110/v1/en/contents/TP1000616546.html

All of these old 1/2.3" sensor digicams are pretty similar. Getting the most recent one you can find is probably your best bet. If the optical zoom lens isn't the reason you want one of these then use a smartphone instead. Another option if you can find it is an original Sony RX100. It has a larger sensor and should produce higher quality results compared to anything like these cameras.

@@ScottJWaldron I just want to take pictures of myself and my family when I travel (nothing professional), just beautiful photos. I'm not sure which one to choose. Based on your experience, which one do you recommend, please ?

@@drraf6984 I know nothing about those cameras and this Sony I looked at for a few hours years ago but I will say the Sony is one of the cheapest cameras possible and its features were limited so probably one of the worst options. Like I said a used RX100 is a better option or a phone unless you really need an optical zoom lens camera.

Lens numbers are always the same so you have to apply the 1.52x crop factor when calculating the field-of-view and equivalent aperture. Here's a quote from wikipedia ( en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crop_factor ): Lenses designed for the smaller digital formats include Canon EF-S and EF-M lenses, Nikon DX lenses, Olympus Four Thirds System lenses, Sigma DC lenses, Tamron Di-II lenses, Pentax DA lenses, Fujifilm XF and XC lenses, and Sony Alpha (SAL) DT & E lenses. Such lenses usually project a smaller image circle than lenses that were designed for the full-frame 35 mm format. Nevertheless, the crop factor or FLM of a camera has the same effect on the relationship between field of view and focal length with these lenses as with any other lens, even though the projected image is not as severely "cropped". In this sense, the term crop factor sometimes has confusing implications; the alternative term "focal length multiplier" is sometimes used for this reason.

@@ScottJWaldron that's strange, with it being for the cropped sensor why not just put the actual numbers on thdt it will be haha, thanks for the reply

@scratchgonzo The way I think about crop factor is if I were editing a photo on a computer. You'd take the normal photo and crop it in the editor by 1.52x. Doesn't really have anything to do with the lens and what numbers are used to define its properties. It's all about the camera. Like getting half a sandwich at a restaurant instead of a full one. All that is happening is you see less in the APS-C photo than you would using a standard full-frame camera because it's cropped out. The whole designed for APS-C lens thing is odd, but just a cost saving measure. That's why you see APS-C lenses like 10-18mm. Or small digicam/smartphone lenses with like a 3mm lens. They are trying to get a wider field-of-view to compensate for the smaller sensor. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Focal_length en.wikipedia.org/wiki/F-number

How has it worked out for you? I found it pretty challenging with the limitations of that original Crane-M gimbal. Even the M200 had issues. I ended up not keeping it too long and haven't used a gimbal since though I see benefits in their use in general.

Look at the lenses available. Either camera would likely be fine, but the R50 is newer so might have the edge in some use cases. I haven't used an R50 or any Canon cameras after Canon discontinued the EF-M system.