Fully agree to lot of things sayed. The laser mode front MetroX is almost unusable with current SW. RaptorX on same laptop provides excellent results with laser. Full-field mode and auto-turntable from MetroX is quite good. Anyhow RevoScan need to improve a lot for laser mode scanning.

I agree with this. Albeit, this is also my first time with a scanner as well. I simultaneously bought the Creality Raptor and Metro-X. I found the Raptor to be much easier to get decent results and more reliable. However, I don't have the proper software to judge accuracy, so I can't comment. The software has more potential than Creality Scan, but needs significant under the hood improvements to compete. I do like the customer service so far of Revo better than Creality, but they are under the microscope at the moment so only time will tell to see if this continues. Case in point: Autodesk. If you look at their forums, Fusion is still riddled with many of the same bugs that it had at the beginning (latter half of 2010's). However they were extremely responsive in the forums during that time. Now, their forums go completely unchecked by the staff.

This is the video to follow. Watched several of these and he’s the only one that showed the actual solder process. The others just showed how to take it off. Good video

I'm about 4 hours into mine, suspect my expectations were a bit lower, but I sure hope some firmware and software updates come along to make it a better value proposition and use of my time. I've created a MetroX UG on discord is anyone is interested in discussions outside the Revopoint ecosystem.

I backed this on Kickstarter, but missed seeing the Advanced bundle so missed on the marker kit, so I'm 3D printing my own as I watch this, because mine arrived last week. On opening it, I need to make a better tripod mount, as I find the supplied "tray" not good enough to hold the scanner. I expect the software to improve. Thanks for sharing.

Thank you for the review. The letters and logos in the scanned parts are exceptionally clear. Given that you’ve had the scanner for less than a month, achieving this expertise as a beginner is impressive! We’ve noted your software feedback and passed it to our R&D team for improvements, so please give us some time. Regarding our Kickstarter shipments, we started shipping global orders in December. However, Christmas and differing carrier schedules caused some to arrive sooner than others. We’ll learn from this and avoid shipping near Christmas in the future. Finally, the MetroX community has many user showcases, and we welcome all to join and explore them.

Great review and well made points 👍

Some notes since I was pretty tired at all points in the video and voiceover recording that I'll probably update a couple times: Boy that intro took ages to render with the noise reduction I ran on it, damn. I also forgot to set my camera to 3:1 Two weeks (actually a bit less I just realised, but I've spent a lot of time with the scanner,) is still a relatively short time to become fully familiar with a tool, especially one that is brand new to many people, so more tips and tricks to improve scanning results are bound to crop up as more people use it, which I'm keeping an eye on. Laser artifacts on FDM prints are actually more than just noticeable, it's basically like turning on fuzzy skin. Certain red and orange colors aren't picked up by the scanner. I didn't comment on the case because honestly, it's fine. It's a fairly cheap design, but has nice feet and decent cutouts, a little cramped for space if you wanted to print off marker blocks and carry a bunch of extra markers, but at the end of the day it's not particularly noteworthy. I was also able to party scan a smoked translucent plastic object which was impressive. The included tripod is also quite nice. Edit: Auto exposure in laser scanning also seems to undershoot a lot and adds lag to the process, manually setting exposure levels, even with some red clippng is better. The RGB camera seems pretty light sensitive, almost too much as you can see in the breadboard example. I had pretty moderate lighting and it still looks blown out. Perhaps a small ND filter would help.

Yet, here we are

Mine is from the US with the “silicone” part on it already. It rattles like f’ing crazy. It’s my 2nd one and not any better. Ever have a final solution?

So I have the same card only it’s a 3080ti and I noticed I am missing both of those little resistors.. the one you soldered is missing along with the one directly above that one .. both are yellow in appearance and look to be the same resistors judging from your video.. I’m wondering if that’s why my card stopped putting out a video feed all of a sudden. Any help would be greatly appericated!

A little tip: keep an angle of at least 45°. In full field mode you could still turn the lighting to maximum. I used it to scan a black plastic part yesterday.

Beautiful Footage! BMPCC in the snow is awesome!

Did you ever find a solution? I just got one and was like... wtf? This has been out for awhile now and I am having the same issue you did approx. 2 years ago!

This was more just a test for me, but decided to put together a very short set of clips from my trip. Everything was shot in HFR and sped up x, then some basic quick and meh color grading if you can call it that. I also had an issue with the side mount orinetation (shots on dry pavement) where I couldn't tune the arm right and it either went fully up, or fully down. I think because it was at a slight angle back due to the rushed mount. Front and rear mounting worked great with the soft vibration module, especially with how rough some of the roads were. Might have done a longer one but not feeling up to it after travel and allergies kicking my ass.

If you are ok for selling some (or just one) of this, if it's fully working and ready to go, I'll be super glad to buy one even if its expensive :) Hope you can ship it to france ;)

I still use my Anycubic i3 mega, no real issues with it, just works and is in an enclosure. I use it for PLA, PETG and ABS. Just replaced the nozzle with a more modern one better than the original and have many spares. The modern one can get to 300 Deg C. Bed leveling is a pain, but with feeler gauges can get it down pat all the time (gap is now just 0.1 mm, can gown down 0.04). I replaced the glass bed with a magnetic sheet and now use PEI spring steel sheets. Got these of Aliexpress, you can use larger PEI sheets but you just need to make sure not too large (in my case 220mm for 210mm original glass bed). The only thing I would like to see is allowing the nozzle to get to 300 Deg C and the bed to 110 Deg C. I know gcode can force it 300 DegC and Bed to 100 DegC, but using the interface limits it 250 and 90. This is due to the S/W being at an age when 250/90 was pretty decent. The best thing about.. You can tinker with the basics. Unlike my Bambu Lab A1, its closed and thus limited in tinnkering.

It worked!!! Thanks. I skipped the entire flux step (don't have the gear/know-how) and just touched a fine tip to each joint around the odometer, including resistors (both sides of the board). Not hard to do at all with a long fine solder tip. Odometer is almost blindingly bright now. [Edit: Solder gun was a Weller WES51 set at maybe 800 degrees F] ... oh, and I'm not very good at soldering either.

Great job on the component level troubleshooting and repair. Pretty neat. Subscribing!

i dont think klipper help..u pay about 40 bucks too much...and fast isnt word what anyone searging for

Take a piece of heat shrink tubing (3/32 fits perfectly) and cut a small piece off - literally 2.3 mm. Slide this over the end of the end of the nub and past the thick neck part. Push the nub back in until the heat shrink covers the neck. Heat up to lock it in place. I did this with the CR touch disassembled. Its pretty easy. I used the included flathead with my ender 3 v2 and pried the shell apart. The magnet and nub come out and you can work with it easier. What you're basically doing is when the CR touch is in the 'resting' position it'll sit on the heat shrink and have a little more resistance against the magnet. This solved my rattling issues completely.

Never use force. If you'd just waited a bit longer, the solder on the other side would probably have melted too, and you could have gently pushed it off with almost no force.

"I'll just put this with the rest of the fire"

Looks awesome!

This is the EXACT reason why I'll never get anything bambu. I like to tinker and fix stuf...kinda one of the reasons why I have 3D printers in the first place. But I want to diagnose and repair not just press buttons and send it in if something breaks. It absolutely drives me nuts when I see someone too lazy to even try to figure out how to fix something they paid so much money for.

If you decide to mod that printer, I recommend putting a Bmg extruder or clone on it

I already fixed the “broken” mega S at my Makerspace. Idk why but I love repairing 3D printers, including my own.

not bad. saved the ewaste. great work

Hey, I pretty much did the same exact thing!!

I bought a broken Ender 3 Pro. I turned it into a Voron Switchwire.

Love these videos. It always is a good time when i can see the troubleshooting process!

Nice! Bought my printer cheap and broken as well. Unrepaired off eBay, it was a Microcenter return. Ender 3 S1 for $90 shipped, when it arrived the nozzle had a huge clog on it, and the seller sent me a 2nd whole printer when I asked about parts for it.

I bought an ender 3 3D for 60 bucks Canadian, but i had to assemble it.. It does works but I had to upgrade a few things like a glass bed and auto leveling.

Easy fix if you are experienced. That i3 mega were good machines. Change the board to a skr, add a screen and some mosfets

Ran across your video just scrolling through. Learned a bit in how repairs work and dropped a sub. Thank you for taking the time to share the journey.

Where did you find it? I've been interested in a resin printer but don't have a real need for one, but if it was cheap.

Having owned an anycubic mega-x it’s a giant piece of junk. It’s been sitting in parts for the last year I need to recycle it.

Looks really cool, though crank the accels higher mate, you can go at least 20k accel with that

really cool toolhead

It looks nice but like. it still wont out perform a $300 slinger, convert to a 2.4 with all that hardware

Did you use blind fasteners for the corners of the aluminum extrusion?

Fantastic Its work for me thanks i have lot of time to resolve this .

I have a refurbished thinkcentre m920t with rtx 3050 6gb is the io shield a part of the case? Or can it be removed for future upgrades? Like whole new motherboard cpu ram

What an utterly idiotic design. Why not build it with plug-in fuses? Mine needs two fuses but it's off the trash - life is too short to fix junk like this.

Hey man! Thanks for the plug hack and the web interface hack. And the cable pin out guide in the comments, hahaha. Still watching your video on 2024.

Do you have the design of the pulley uploaded somewhere

I think they mint to go AIO water cooling with that PSU on top but still no enough space for an AIO to breath.

Sorry is that the fans comes with the case ?

Not really a sleeper if it has a shitload of RGB in it

Bro there is no way this is like the 20th video ive seen and we are doing the same projects lmao this is awesome