Is there such a thing as a (cheap) hydrometer with a output signal you can set to indicate to a monitoring system and/or to a relay to trigger a active heater when needed so a automated/monitored storage system can be designed? I´m thinking like a miniature house ac system that triggers the dryer/heater when ever a "room" goes above a set moisture level. Either with all storage boxes in one loop or with baffles only heating the box that requests it. After all, if it can be done for your house at macro scale should we not be able to do the same in miniature and at a descent prize? What do you guys think, could you build such a setup and how would you do it? Ps. Are bearings really needed, do not the filaments feeder pull strongly enough to use teflon coated sliders(like the ones on your mouse)? (I just got my printer and have not even mounted it yet as I am building a place for it first, so I really wish to know if this is plausible).

It would be cool to modify these to work with the modular polydryer system.

Why not have a container that can hold 4 filaments or so? Those can still print from the container. Single filament boxes are so silly to me. You need a crap ton of hygrometers and whatnot. It's a major hassle to have 20+ of these individual boxes around.

Hello Mark, found you channel a couple weeks ago after i started my BTT Voron build. Im having issues with my print head not coming to the center of the print bead after i hit the HOME button in mainsail. The "x" "y" homing went good as far as i can tell, it just wont home so i cant do the bed leveling because it thinks its elsewhere. Any insight would be great.

This is an amazing design and works really well. Being in the UK I did have to search about a bit on Amazon for the right containers and humidity indicators but I found the same same size etc and it all fits together really well. Thank you.

Just use wood drill bit with pointy tip instead of bits for steel and "pilot" drilling.

Hello Printing the part on my Bambu Labs A1 using ABS filament. the BOX-BASE-4.STL file does not print. After I looked at the file it is different than the one you showed on the video. It is all one piece do you have the half piece file still with the supports on it?

I was a little hesitant because someone mentioned the Bambu spools don't fit, but I received my initial supply of containers and they seem to fit pretty well in there. The only other issue I need to consider is the storage space the containers take up on my shelves. Currently I bag my filament and lay them horizontally, stacking them four in a column for four columns, 16 rolls in all. I figure in the same space I could fit about 7 containers, so it leaves me less space to store them. But it would look much nicer and I would be sure they would stay dry.

Great work and Thanks for Sharing

Very Nice and I am building 6 of them in the next few days.

I just wanted to throw this out there , I watched your video and I found it very useful , Thanks for the idea . I wanted to add that I also buy the Desiccant packets from Dry/Dry . Which are blue and turn Pink when there used up I place 2 Packets in my containers 1 on each end then place filament inside And place a Humidity Indicator card with your Cereal Container Filament Storage .Works even better now ...

Very nice

Love this design and have decided to have a go. I would like to replace the hygrometer with a zigbee version so my smart home system can monitor the humidity of each dry box and warn me if they start to rise. Would you be prepared to share the 3D cad file for the filament guide so I can modify it for my zigbee hygrometer? I would of course be happy to share the modified design, should anyone want to do the same.

This is a awesome way to store and use filament. The Bambu AMS doesn't like to load mixed types, with this I can load the AMS with PLA and use this system to store and feed into the external port, while leaving the AMS untouched. Just a side note the ROG font works in Bambu studio. 😉 I'll leave feedback when I have my first one together. A second filament guide STL for the round humidity meter would be great. :)

Filament is scratching at the coupler nut could you fix that? Its making loud noise

PLEASE DO continue developing this ecosystem idea you have. I have already started the process of building a set of these for myself as I watched this video. I think this is an excellent idea that answers a lot of the shortcomings that other attempts at filament storage have.

We have the same problem in Canada: it is a metric country, where Imperial measurements are still the norm. I'm building boxes using your ideas. I'll keep you posted.

Very nice. Is there any chance this could be adapted to work with the PolyMaker PolyDryer? I really like their system but it's too expensive to buy dry boxes for every roll.

Excellent video with the exception to the mentioning to "freedom measurements" The US uses metric officially.

Thank you for the tutorial. But what caught my eye was the stand/action base on the 3D printer, is it 3D printed? I been looking forever for a robust stand model that can be use with PG kit.

Is the G2 wristwatch the same thing as the G2 stand alone (SA) extruder? There isn't a knob on the Stealthburner version, but then, there isn't a way to have one! So I assume you just push the filament into the extruder, and then use the controls on klipper to advance the motor a few mm. (I'm building the Stealthburner version for my Enderwire). BTW You CAN remove heatsets from plastic parts and reuse them! (Assuming you don't need the parts). Removal process is just the opposite of installing them using the soldering iron. You might have to clean up the heatsets to remove some plastic, easy with a wire wheel or brush and a hot air gun (hot air soldering station). I've reused heatsets from parts salvaged from upgrades and abandoned projects many times.

Very good, but for me it takes forever for the humidity to drop to 10% if it even will get there

Thanks a lot for the video, what probe are you using on the v0 ?

Great work! Love the ball lever arm idea, seems simpler than using a bearing ball. Have you researched smaller switches? There could be some room for miniaturization.

Hi, Thanks for this solution and this great video. In this video you talk about an future active solution for this box. Does it go on? Thanks

what a great explanation, Thank you,

This is great stuff and I am planning to build some for my burgeoning filament collection. And I, like many of the others here, are interested in integrating some type of heating unit. Several good suggestions were mentioned in the comments. However, I am trying to reconcile best practices when using this system in conjunction with an AMS or other multi-material system. I want the best of both worlds and at the moment I don't think that's gonna happen. But wouldn't it be cool to take your system and be able to feed it through a multi-material system?

This was a great guide, thanks

Stumbled across this excellent 'how-to' DIY build and made it my first project on my new Qidi plus4 (after the ubiquitous initial PLA benchy of course!). All in all it has gone 100% according to plan. Parts printed perfectly - once I figured out the correct orientation for strength - and I am now the happy owner of 6 of these excellent & cost effective dry-boxes. Thank you Mark from a UK fan. Well done!

I’m confused. Your Printable files are not the same as what is shown in your video. Specifically, the base is very different and does not fit most of my filament spools (they are too wide).

Can you post alternate sellers for the containers? The people who sell these are raising prices cause of your videos getting greedy. I’m scared to buy another version not knowing if the print will fit. Post 3 containers that also work so we don’t have to pay $40 for these now when they use to be $20

Haha. Freedom Units

Hi Mark. Thank you for the well done and informative video series. I had my LDO box sitting on the floor waiting for me to crack it open. Before I did I found your playlist and watched the entire playlist in preparation. Once I started my build I referenced back to some of your videos to clear things up before continuing. I still ran into my own flavor of trouble, but I just finished tuning my second filament on the printer. This was not my first printer build, but it was my first Voron build. I recommend anyone building their first Voron 0 watch your playlist. It will undoubtedly result in a smoother build process. If you are watching or building alongside, pay attention to the pre-loaded nuts for the enclosure side of the magnets. Do NOT use standard no-drop nut mods. Although Mark points it out I missed it. It takes some thought and disassembly to correct this problem!

Has someone tried rewinding them with a magnet does it work?

After watching your vids, my 0.2 is ready to go but for one thing. There is no way to power the Rpi 4B. I don’t see a way to add the top hat you mentioned. Maybe LDO has the wrong part in my kit?

I really like your design as well, I'm building some. I was wondering why you have access holes at the top and not the bottom where it would be easier to pull the filament through? I'm going to try that for at least one and see how it works. Again, really nice work.

This is my 1st time hearing that imperial = freedom!

good day i have the foot fits that should slide together doesn't fit, have to work a lot to make it fit so that it fits, and the support that comes with it I can't get off is it me or is it in the design?

Can you tell me the g code for the purge line please

Really cool idea. I have just started printing the needed parts for my first box. I have a Bambu Lab A1 with AMS Lite and my idea is to have a dry box for each of the rolls of filament to make easier switch of filament, feeding the AMS Lite from the boxes. I like your idea about an active dryer system. I guess food dehumidifier with a printed "lid" with a "coupling" that fit opening in the box could du the job, but it will need an exit hole for hot air as well 🙂 Keep up the good work and keep the videos coming 🙂 Thanks.

hello, have a link for stl beacon? thanks

I was thinking the same exact thing about the PolyMaker dryer system.... I'll still probably get a couple to keep my AMS dry and a couple to keep the spare spools dry and ready. I even keep my PLA dry; it really helps with finish quality especially at speed.

You might want to consider a desiccant holder that goes into the middle of the spool as it will allow you to add an additional amount.

is there an Oring on the cuppler andcuppler hole and top hole ? if not, Why, they are dirt cheap. ? and i have a few ideas more for updates, you should design, the desecant holder to be inserted, into hole with a sealer like silicone or something, air tight, then make it screw on inside, instead, that hole , plus those other 2 are never gonna be air tight, it would i my mind be much much better to make those 3 holes more tight, with the Orings and design change.

Many thanks Mark for a great & helpful video! I bought my Ender3 V3 last week and, apart from the odd benchy, this the first real project I’ve printed. Everything printed and fitted perfectly. All the parts were easily obtainable from Amazon here in the UK for roughly £10 ($7.7) per box excluding the desiccant. I found some connectors that came with 5m of Teflon tubing which will allow me to run the filament from the floor to printer fully enclosed. Thanks again

Dude, your videos are really high quality. I'm surprised I haven't seen your channel before!

Why don’t use double sided tape instead of the screw on top for the hygrometer?

Very cool solution. Thank you

Hey Mark! Saw your video this morning and thought it was a great idea! I'll probably try and make it myself. Later in the day I came across another video that you might be interested in: kzbin.info4r3wGYqxg-8?si=eS5jh2knk9ajg2-K A modular heating/drybox system! Seems like a DIY version is needed ;)

i wish id have seen this video a month ago before i started prototyping my own version of this... i ended up drilling out two middle hole for a bearing roller and attatching a fan and 5ohm resistor for a bit of mild heating. powered by microusb. all attached to the lid. doing it all upside down is great but you have to remove the filament from the tube if you want to uncap it. had to make like 6 different sized rollers for different hole sizes. cheaped out and just poured dessicant beads into the bottom. now I'm going to prototype a version that uses 2 nested containers for insulation and i can put the electronics in the gap.