What oil filter would you recommend to use with valvoline restore and protect oil

ur saying a lot of complicated words! funny oil science man!

As a new car salesman, I disagree with this advice.

The only way to perform that on an older vehicle would be to remove the oil pump relay and turn the key

Honda honda honda, you have always been your own worst enemy, but this takes the cake. 350 hp.... should be 450 - 500 minimum. Did you even think about upgrading the driveline?? I've got a total stock 2012 2dr accord with 300 hp and simply putting turbo kit on it exceeds 400 hp easy. What a shame. You've got to be willing to take some risk but I know you won't. It's a beautiful gutless car. The civic type r with the its reduction in weight can probably outperform this thing both in straight line and turns for sure. What a shame, all this work for nothing...

Have u ever tried POWER UP Gen490 diesel fuel system treatment?

Your charts are extremely hard to read. If you look at the charts 'The Project Farm' uses, it might cause you to re-think the way your data is presented.

Those top liner seals would probably come in handy in a rotary engine or pumps. A big problem for those engines is how to seal the rotor against the sidewall.

Found oil geek about a month ago. Jeep has 220k, it’s getting this oil next change. Impressive.

Toyota will not spend another millions of dollars for there mass produced engine to have them break in. Unless stated.

I’ve been using the cheapest crap gas anywhere I can find it. My bicycle still peddles the same 😊

Great video, waiting the arrival of my Daughters new Corolla Cross, now have oil and filters ready for the 1000km and 5000km changes between the intervals the dealer will do

.... i dnt think the engine's gonna die if it does not get lubrication for a few seconds while the oil makes it's way up.... i unless you have a very overly sensitive engine design....

I truly wish they make this restore and protect for motorcycles oil line up as well, and would be absolutely hoarding all the oil if they have those line up that designed for efficient cleaning while have excellent lubricity additives that can withstand during high load, heat, rpm in a high performance motorcycle engine during track days or sprinted riding. I really want something that can clean my bike this goood. If it is available I’m definitely the one gonna buy it straight out of the factory production line waiting for it to come out through the conveyer belt 😂😂

What is AP or APP? I've heard of DEXOS and API (American Petroleum Institute), but never AP certification/classification.

Love your channel. Helped me with lot of knowledge. I have a doubt. I ride kawasaki ninja 300. It takes 2.4l pf oil but every 1000kms it loses about 100-150ml of oil engine is perfect they say it's normal for high reving engine. Is it so?

When manufactures puts break in 1000 miles in manual book. Do it

Seems many great ideas cocerning ICE engines in the past have unfortunately been overlooked for many reasons. Mainly money ❤ great video.

So silly

I drain my oil first and put 5 in without changing the oil filter. I run the motor for a couple of seconds, afterwards I change the oil filter.

I had a friends roommate ask me to change the oil on their new Kia. It had almost 15k miles and was the first oil change. 😂

What amount of time is older oil usable?

Il tell you I worked at a manufacturing plant and they rip them at the factory

I wish they would make VR1 in a 5W30

Hello. I have Honda CRV 2007 US Build .whit 146 000 . kilometers . Manual book for that car , Say -Use 5W20 oil. What is better solutiion , Use 5W20 or 5W30 ??? Thank You for helping people !!!!!!

More fuel content... where is it we want it?

Does anyone know, is this the same product as the discontinued Shell Rotella Gas Truck oil?

Just changed the oil in my 2013 VW Passat 2.0L TDI (which IS direct injection) with Mobil 1 0W40 which caused a "Oil Pressure: Engine off" notice on the dash at or around 20MPH. I'm switching back to 5W30 which is recommended by Volkswagen.

5:48 Why?

The pre filled filter guys have no answer for drop in cartridge filters.

Thanks for great content videos, Lake! I wonder about how good oil after 5 years, not the ancient one like more than 10y. We often saw good price oil in store but they are 4y old. I am very curious how bad it is after 6 or 7y, just 1 or 2 y pass the self life.

So the bottom line is, no matter how much will the 5w50 shear down it should be still higher in viscosity than 0W40, and for sure is totally higher in the begining. So I don't umderstand why you're you saying you prefer 5W30 instead of 0W40. Why are we even talking about this? I think it is because we see the engines break down and we all feel that the recommendations of water like oils is in general as true as life time transimssion oils. In my opinion the whole theory about tight clearance engines and the neccessity to use water like 0w20 is close to a nonsense and total misunderstanding in general. I think we have already all understood that the life time automatic transmission oil is not really life time and it makes no sense not to change the transsmission fluid. Now we ve got to prove ourselve that the high viscosity oil is not really that "thick" and there is no one surface in the engine that it wouldnt flow to.

I've always been told that it doesn't matter if the oil is regular, synthetic, blend or of the 3 but High Milage as long as you change the oil between 3 to 5 k miles.

well dang! I've been needing to do an oil change and I think I might use this stuff on my 140k mile 6.2L.

Too much zinc and phosphorus increases timing chain wear. Moly IN SUSPENSION decreases or attenuates wear. The white papers suggest for modern engines phosphorus in as little as 65ppm didn't increase wear. So I looked up all of the favorite oils or the one's people recommend most and then I compared them to the ones I choose and there it is! There are very good reasons why I choose oils with less volatile phosphorus and less zinc. In modern engines it's really not even about how much additives are in the oil. It's about how the oil is able to lubricate in certain conditions and circumstances. So, it's about the base oil. The physical properties tell me what I want to know. So that's why I pick certain products from Shell, certain products from Castrol BP, and then certain products from Mobil. If I had a VW or a Chrysler product I'd be a little pickier about the oil service interval along with making sure it meets their specifications. I enjoy your videos. Someone on another mechanical forum said something about how more additives create more deposits. So I researched that for awhile and found it depended on what kind of machine, what additives, service intervals, etc.

Penzoil UP vs Amsoil vid is what many want to see

No way you pumped all the engine oil through the filter unless you ran the drill for a lot of minutes. 30 seconds is only going to filter a small fraction of the total engine oil.

I call bs on the Porsche filter pre oiling unless you did not prefilled it on the fourth change and daw the bearing material come back up.

Primer on Filtration Allow us to offer this primer on filtration. Filter media has a range of particles that it will remove. The smallest particle size it can catch is usually referred to the “nominal” size. The largest particle size it lets through is referred to as the “absolute” size. The sizes between those two are usually expressed as a beta ratio, or percentage of efficiency. In other words, if you introduce 100 particles of the 15 micron size and 60 of them get caught, you have a percentage of efficiency of 60. It is interesting to note that some companies are very liberal with their advertised absolute numbers. There are many different test procedures that can be used to test the particulates a filter media will remove. There are single pass, multiple pass, SAE, ASTM, and even European specific tests. What gets difficult is how to compare the numbers used for marketing filters. Picture yourself standing in the auto parts store in front of a rack of filters trying to decide which filter is “best”. You see a 22 micron filter with some sort of efficiency rating attached to it (for example 94% efficiency) and another with a 15 micron number printed on the box with no efficiency rating. And then you see one that has printed on it that the filter will catch down to 5 microns. There is no way to accurately compare those numbers. From a marketing standpoint it is better to print lower numbers since most consumers don’t have a clue about efficiency ratings, and there is more of a chance of the customer purchasing the lower number filter. Problem is the “5 micron” filter may be letting more particles through the filter than the one that has 22 microns printed on it. A good example of this is the Harley Davidson Twin Cam filter. On the box it says it will filter down to 5 microns. When tested at the lab it actually passes 40 micron particles. Before you condemn the filter, I would note that it pretty much tied with the Dodge Cummins diesel filter as the tightest OEM filters tested. As an fyi, most paper filters range from 50 to 90 microns as their absolute number. Ours is 35 (and yes, we can catch 5 micron particles as well). We use the ASTM test because it offers the smallest amount of manipulation of the testing process. We test for worst case, or absolute numbers, partially to be able to compare apples to apples between filters, and partially because of FAA testing. As filter media gets tighter, the flow rate gets slower and the resistance to flow increases. This resistance is referred to as differential pressure (the difference in pressure between the outside and inside of the filter element). As the differential pressure increases, the pressure against the bypass valve increases and the chance of the bypass opening increases. K&P Engineering focuses on maximizing flow rates while meeting or exceeding OEM filtration. Not all stainless steel filter cloth is created equal. We specify the wire diameter, thread count each direction and the type of weave to use to create our filter cloth which is how we meet the filtration and flow goals. We can get between 5 and 7 quarts of oil through our filter element in the time it takes to get 1 quart through an OEM filter element while still meeting or exceeding OEM filtration. The reason for this is that paper and synthetic filter media is made of fibers that are pressed or glued together and require a certain thickness to get to the filtration objective. This type of media inherently has more flow restriction that the filter cloth that K&P Engineering uses. We tested a pro stock engine on the dyno with a gage on both sides of the filter cavity. At wide open throttle we measured 20 lbs of differential pressure on the paper filter (0w at 180 degrees). The K&P Engineering filter measured less than 1 lb. This means the bypass on the paper filter is open letting unfiltered oil through the filter and into the engine. Ours has a lot further to go before it opens. The result is more filtered oil getting to the engine, and getting there faster. The reduction in differential pressure also results in less backpressure against the oil pump which has the potential to improve performance and or fuel mileage. Some will argue for a very tight filter media, and concentrate on the smallest particles a filter will catch (even though it might be a nominal number). An analogy we use is to think about the towel you are about to dry your freshly washed new car with. Are you more concerned about the dust that has settled on the towel, or the rock that is in the towel left over from when the towel was dropped. It also becomes a moot point on how tight the filter media is if the bypass is open and the debris is flowing right past the filter media. Some filter companies argue that they are ok with the bypass being open because the debris will eventually get caught as the oil seeps through the media and the oil will get to a cleaner level at some point in time. Our concern is what damage is being done while that debris is passing through the engine over and over again waiting to get caught in the filter media. We have customers that do want to get to that finer level of cleanliness, and they usually go with a bypass filter setup. They use our filter as primary filter, and a very tight filter on the bypass circuit. That way the oil is cleaned to OEM levels with our filter, and as it dribbles through the tighter media of the bypass it will get even cleaner. The stainless steel filter cloth technology has been around a very long time. It is used in military aircraft (fighter jets, helicopters) and even used for filtering blood. K&P Engineering filters are approved by the FAA for aircraft use, and have just recently been approved by the European equivalent of the FAA (EASA) for use on aircraft in Europe. We are consistently monitored for quality assurance as a part of these approvals. Having said all this, K&P Engineering appreciates the people that question the quality provided by different filters. There are some cheaper counterfeits of our filter out there that use the K&P Engineering information and numbers to promote themselves. When we sent the media of those knock off screen filters out for testing at the lab, they came back as filtering worse than the worst paper filters we have tested. It is kind of like the Harbor Freight versions of Snap On tools. K&P Engineering www.KandPEngineering.com

Please analyze pennzoil ultra platinum 0W-20

Can this be used in modern Chevy 5.3s?

Have you done a comparison on racing oils yet? Like driven vs pensoil, pengrade, Schafer, amsoil, and other popular performance oil brands?

Run nothings but 10-W40 dirt bike oil and dominator 2 stroke oil in my YZ 125 & 250. Amsoil is the best bar none.

Have you ever reviewed Phillips 66 Shield brand of oil? Haven’t really seen any information on it.

Wow!! I stumbled across this video and it has great content. I am a big Harley rider and have been using Amsoil for a while now. I don’t think I’ll switch to anything else. Thanks for the video.

Have you ever reviewed Phillips 66 Shield brand motor oils? Just curious there isn’t a lot of info or reviews on it.

Do you have a test on Amsoil Signature Series 0W-40 to see how well it does against shear?

My first car was a Volkswagen bug ( during the great fuel crisis )that I built from a junker. I had read ( yes, read, as this was pre internet ) that 70 percent of wear was upon startup. I installed a separate starter switch on the dash so I could prelube the engine prior to engaging the ignition.

I am shocked that you have gotten this much mileage out of this ridiculous question, yet here I am. All I needed to hear is the other side of the argument, realizing that flat earthers are the architects of said argument, Im out.

I have a 2012 tundra with a 5.7 that has always had the tundra timing chain slap at cold start because of a varnished tensioner on one side. I changed to restore and protect to see if tensioner might get full range of motion with any build-up removed. I drove 65 miles on the restore and protect and the timing chain slap at cold start went away and is perfectly quiet now at cold start. It was a $30 solution to an old and persistent issue with the 5.7. I wouldn't have believed this if someone told me. But it worked and it worked fast. Thank you for making this vid.