Hi. What is the shock part#. It should be on the top of the shock. Two letters and four numbers

@@theohlinsguy4649 It does not have any number or letter.

@@theohlinsguy4649 Is there any other way we can talk more easily and maybe I can send you photos or video?

@@drchila It may not be an Ohlins

Thanks! Glad it was of interest to you.

Thanks!! I'm not worthy!! My best pal Don Peake was racing a Lancia at Riverside when we met in 1968

Thanks! A smaller reservoir wouldn't really effect anything. The same amount of oil would be in it but just less nitrogen which wouldn't really effect much. I am assuming it is a 44mm ID reservoir. The shortest one is 80mm long.

if it is the 49mm reservoir there is also an 80mm long one available

Thanks a million for your prompt response. I love your gentlemanly manners combined with your halfway British English. It's a real pleasure to listen to your easy-to-grasp explanations. Unluckily the values you represent are quickly disappearing these days.

@@F4br1qu3 Thanks! You forgot to mention that I am very good looking (haha)

@@theohlinsguy4649 I've felt that something was missing I just couldn't put my finger on it 😂

When I look up that number it shows a conventional fork, meaning the big part is down. I have never done any of these. I looked to see if I could find a manual for them but none were available. I wish I could help more. Try Ohlins USA 838 692-4525 and see if they have any info.

@@theohlinsguy4649 Sorry to be precise its the FG 318 kit, Ducati 748-998

@@johnrobertson5489 I can only find a spec card for it It says it is for a 748/916 cc40

@@theohlinsguy4649Appreciated thanks for the quick reply

Thanks!!

Thanks. I am out of things I actually know about!

Thanks John. As you can see it's not rocket science. It is just a matter of doing a few of them but mostly having the correct tools

I think it is the blind leading the blind. Also most of these are way oversprung which mitigates some of the bad damping.

@@theohlinsguy4649 very interesting to me. My Penske 8300s are linear, but my Koni Doubles are definitely digressive. but they I read some F4 or F3 cars a have basically extremely digressive curves

HI Ben. Pressure balancing is time consuming and difficult exercise that is rarely if ever done. If a single tube shock is done correctly it is as good as any shock. One of the advantages of Ohlins TTX technology is that you don't have to worry about pressure balancing or cavitation. It is actually adjustable in a wide range. I wrote a thing on shock adjustability that applies to single tube shocks that I will try to attach. file:///Users/douglasbrenner/Desktop/SHOCK%20ADJUSTABILITY.pdf

@@theohlinsguy4649 Thanks for the answer. Sadly I cannot access what you shared, but I will contact you on your email, I'm quite intrigued. :)

@@theohlinsguy4649 Thank you for your answer. Sadly, I can't access the document, but I will contact you on your email.

@@Ben-cb7uq sounds good. My email is on my website brennershocks

Hi Ben. Actually some great questions. As for intended purpose, I only have some experience with vehicles that need mechanical grip. When you get into cars with high downforce made from the underside of the vehicle at some point downforce is more important than mechanical grip. At that point the shock is used for keeping the aero in place. I see many "experts" talk about using shocks in mechanical grip cars to keep the "platform" in a certain position. This is not the job of the shock. When this is done you are giving up grip. There are other ways to do this. There is really no difference between motorcycle and auto damping. Also there is no difference between street and track. Grip is grip. Soft is fast. Shocks put out resistance to motion relative to shaft speed so on the track you just get more damping because the shocks/forks are moving faster. Proper compression damping bleeds off extra energy that would have been stored in the spring so you don't need a heavy spring. Enough compression damping is essential and most shocks I see don't have enough. All I want to know is what is the motion ratio so I know what the tire thinks the damping/spring rate is. I only use linear damping. Most vehicles like very similar damping at the wheel. The great question is correcting anomalies. If you are valving for anomalies like hitting a big bump etc. then you are compromising the other 99% of your grip for 1%. Anomalies are just that and I ignore them in my valving.

Hi. I don't really use any software. I just kind of know what I want to see and mess with it until I get it where I like it. I just have lots of experience but still need to mess with it to get what I want. I have a dyno to see what I have done. I have lots of data stored on my dyno so I kind of know what I have done before to get what I want and I have a starting point. There is no software that tells you what is better or worse that I know of and if you can find one it will be bogus. There is software for Ohlins TTX40s that you can also use with some success on TTX36. Look up Ohlins Valve Referencing Program (VRP). There are a bunch of different shim stacks in the program and last time I looked two valve choices. (linear and digressive) It can get you in the ballpark of where you want to be. I never use two way adjusters (low and high speed) so if you are using single adjustment you can just put the High Speed at about 38 and it usually is close to correct when manipulating the low speed adjustment. Remember that this software just tells you what the damping might look like but not what is better or worse.

Hi Brook. I do some but not all. I don't do motocross shocks. what shocks do you have? The part# is on the top. should be 2 letters and 4 numbers. Send to my email. [email protected]

I don't know the name of it. i just see it in some forks and shocks I service

That could be the latest new dance craze.

​@@theohlinsguy4649Shocking realisation 😮

Hi. Yes but I don't sell or service Ohlins R&T shocks as I am concentrating on motorsports Ohlins products

@theohlinsguy4649 do you happen to know anyone that does service them in the U.S.? Apparently Ohlins US is not providing it.

Call 3DM Motorsports in North Carolina@@odiespankers07

Hi The needle can't come up the shaft because there is a counterbore inside the shaft. No oil goes up the shaft because of the o-ring on needle. The needle is held in from coming out the bottom by the shaft jet. The need is held against the rebound shaft by the nitrogen pressure in the canister pressurizing the shock oil

You can take off the end eye or clevis on the top end of the shaft and take out the rebound shaft but the needle and oil will not come out.

@@theohlinsguy4649 Okey thanks alot for the answear! i Need a new shaft to my KYB Shocks so i have to look if its build the same way! this is the only video ive seen someone replaceing it

Thanks for the reply. The video explains it the best I can. Who are the "not many" who don't share it? The video title says why I don't do it. Do what you want.

HI Glenn. Thanks for asking but I am not really doing videos at the moment. I took a look at the FL 969 parts list but couldn't find a service manual. The other problem would be that I would have to have one to do a video and since it is so new I probably won't be getting any soon unless someone bends one up. Pretty interesting piece though. I see where you nitrogen fill it but I can't tell if it is an emulsion fork or if there is a separator piston somewhere.

Thanks!!

Hi. Is that a TTX46 in the front? If so the reservoir serves a much different purpose. The through shaft does not displace any oil so no mechanism for dealing with displaced oil is necessary. All the small reservoir is for is to allow for oil expanded by heat to go. The separator piston in the canister does not move when the shaft moves. In any TTX there is also no need for high pressure in the canister. They are usually set at between 6 and 8 bar because there is no danger of cavitation with that technology. Usually the TTXs have a solid piston. There are pistons available with blow off and high frequency configurations but I rarely see this in the applications I use.

@@theohlinsguy4649 Thank you for the explanaition . It helped a lot . I viewed all videos and I got it after I wathed your tth36 ilx video .

If you do have a TTX46 front the TTX40 video is the one that is similar to your front strut. Sorry it took so long for me to respond@@dacianmuntean

Hi. No problem. Contact me on my email [email protected]

Thanks Ramone. I am in Ventura county. I just service Ohlins shocks and forks and don't take them off of the bikes or cars. Most of my work gets shipped to me but if you are close you can bring them here

Thanks I’ll ship it then! Con you give me shipping details please!

Hi Alexander. As far as I know the only way is on a dyno or have some linear data collection on your vehicles shocks

@@theohlinsguy4649 If I want to reset the shim stack, then how can I correctly calculate it for weight and height if I do not know its speed?

I don't think damping has anything to do with height and weight. I think that is the job of the spring@@alexandergavrilov5491

Hi Jason. As everything I have done in my life I have no idea how it happened. I just was lucky enough to have Bruce Burness has a friend and being around racing in the 60s in Southern California. It was interesting to me as it is to you. I fear that seminars are mostly just people telling you things they actually don't know about. Just remember it is not rocket science and you can learn by doing it and making mistakes along the way.

@@theohlinsguy4649 I have a spare shock for my 750 that I took apart specifically to learn on. Seeing the actual parts in my hand, in conjunction with having the knowledge from books and watching videos has helped to some point. Now I just need certain pieces of equipment, but I don’t know if you’ll see enough hobbyist buying that just for a hobby lol.

@@jasonsarmiento3029 Perfect. Some tools can be made and some things can be done without tools but it takes a lot longer to do it. Ohlins tools are at times a bit expensive but there are other sources for tools that are less expensive. Check around on the internet.

Thanks!!

Thanks! I try

I don't think any suspension is totally linear. There are linkages which purposely manipulate the motion ratio.

Look at my valving basics #1 at about 15 minutes in. Even though it is on an in line canister shock the method is exactly the same.

Sometimes it is just better to know what works than try to explain why. I'm just not that smart and it is a moot point to me. I just know from learning from the best and experiencing it first hand that it works and the other doesn't. Trying to quantify things in something as dynamic and a race car or motorcycle is pretty much impossible. I don't work with off road position sensitive shocks but what they usually do is have bypass tubes at different places on the body so when the piston gets to that place the adjustment changes. relative to velocity. There might be other ways that it can be done but I am not interested in that side of damping so I just don't know.

Unless the shock has some sort of bypass mechanism in the body there should be no difference in damping forces based on shaft location. It is only sensitive to velocity

Thanks for answering this. Is there any way you could post a link in this comment to a picture or a video where such a shock body is shown (seen), so I could understnad how those types of bypasses look and thus, hopefully, be able to determin what type of a shock I'm looking at if I ever see something similar in future? Thanks!

A bleed is pretty much low speed damping. You can run without bleeds but it makes the damping very digressive. Bleeds also allow pressure to be relieved that has built up in the shock. If the bleeds are closed you get lots of hysteresis

Thanks for answering, this is exactly what I wanted to know. Just to recap and be sure I got it right - the most influence any time of bleed will have, whether constant internal or externally adjustable, will be at the lower shaft velocities varying the dyno curve (that is, changing the character of the curve) at slow shaft velocities from a somewhat flat or even progressive (what I mean by progressive is non linearly increasing damping force with increasing shaft velocity) to digressive whilst only "shifting" the curve up or down relative to some "midpoint" at higher shaft velocities?

Thanks!

Thanks!!

Thanks! I'm kind of running out of things I know about!

Hi Niko. Not true. Quite the opposite. Let me know how your test goes. It is great that you are interested. Thanks for the comment!

I don't believe there is any reason to revalve for spring rate. One has nothing to do with the other in my opinion

That’s really interesting as the conventional (internet) wisdom is that you have to revalve for spring changes. That being the case , when _would_ I need a revalve? If the adjusters aren’t able to give me the range of damping I need?

Yes, conventional wisdom is often wrong. Ask one of these people why you need to change damping and how would you change it. I am guessing they all want stiffer springs. Conventional wisdom strikes again! Once you have the damping and springs that work you never have to change them. You don't need different damping and springs for on and off the track or for different tracks. Grip is grip. If you find you need more or less damping initially you can easily valve a bit more or less and try again. My video on clamping shims shows one way to do it.@@nobbytrussin

Does it have a bump rubber? What is the Ohlins part#? There could be internal spacers you could take out

Firstly thanks for your reply. Secondly thanks for not just telling me not to bother 🙂. The part number is HO 914 and it’s an STX 46

Sorry, no. They just press out. Some of them have a round circlip on each side that you have to remove and some of the motorcycle ones just press in with no circlips. I use a small arbor press to remove them. Heating the end eye sometimes makes it easier

@@theohlinsguy4649 the ones I have don’t look like there’s room for a circlip, but want to make sure before trying to remove it.

is it off of a car or motorcycle? What is the part# of the shock? It should be on the top with 2 letters and 4 numbers @@straighttimestirrups

Have you removed the press in spacers?

@@theohlinsguy4649 I tried removing them with a bearing puller (slide hammer type) and they didn’t budge. That’s why I stopped before breaking anything.