This video might help you understand how the fuel gauge system works... kzbin.info/www/bejne/fWOxeHR-n7WVhLcsi=l_-Ua13p-s4XlGpZ

Listen to what I said... " Implemented into". Current? You can figure it out, it sounds like you have some experience. The minimum resistance of the sender is 10 ohms, the gauge resistance is 30 ohms. The voltage is 6.4 vdc... If you watch a bit more you will see that I implemented a .5 amp pico fuse on the input to the regulator. Then I added a 7.5v 5watt zener on the output of the regulator to prevent over voltage if the regulator had an issue. Since you seem to know a bit about electronics you should be able to explain the need for that into the design to implement the buck regulator into fuel gauge system. As for the wrapping it is high temp shrink wrap. It was needed to keep from shorting the regulator on the metal parts of the car. So the current is what? 160ma max. Design? Well I did use a buck regulator then designing the needed protection and correct wiring is a design adventure eh? Maybe you have a 69- to 8x beetle etc that has an inoperable fuel gauge eh? If so I have provided you a way isolate which component is defective and resolve the issue. BTW many other makes of cars use the same basic methods of the fuel gauge system. Many do not have OEM parts to make the OEM gauge work so they end up putting Aftermarket gauges etc on the dash of their vehicles. The VW's, there are no OEM parts avail to make it work with the aftermarket gauges nor regulators... This is the direction I have offered as a solution for those that want their gauge to work properly! Many VW's folks want to keep their car as close to orig as possible.

@@vwbeetlefuelgaugesystem what is the input voltage? With 160mA, i would just use a linear regulator. As for the heat shrink, that stuff is fine for cable but will break and tear over time on pointy surfaces. I would suggest you use a proper plastic enclosure.

@@commandoPR There is no pointy surfaces and it is secure from any vibration. My goal for it was to protect it from someone poking around in the area where the regulator is secured! Maybe you have not seen the exposed wiring in a vintage vw... It is scary! I only make 4 of these and decided I wanted something different, smaller and more compact. Watch the final video and you will see that I have settled on the encased buck regulator. That is what I would recommend. I am not selling, nor making $$$ off of the tube. I only want to offer a solution for those VW guys to have a fuel gauge that works. I have been corresponding with an engineer in Sweden and we have been corresponding with the gauge and sender mfg. JP Powergroups... They are not interested in a solution, only $$$$$$. My tube channel has had over 80,000 views... Huston has a problem eh?

​@@vwbeetlefuelgaugesystemi'm sorry you feel offended by my advice. If you're scared by the exposed wiring in your vehicle, i would suggest to do a proper rewiring. It should not be scary.

@@commandoPR Oh not at all offended! All VW's from 1949 had exposed wiring under the hood, front. Not scary to me but I have seen the results of folks working on them that are not careful when working around the exposed wiring. www.jbugs.com/store/graphics/00000001/25/main-wiring-harness-pic6.jpg

How then will you get enough current to make the gauge go to full? If you watch my other videos using the buck regulators you will see what the issue is. The difference in the resistance of the OEM gauge and the After market gauges is about 50%... Thus an increase of the output of the Vibrator/regulator. You did not read my comments for this video! Thanks for the reply.

Can't say for sure that the range between R and E will be 1 more gallon to go so I would recommend you find a time that you can fill the tank or test when the gauge is showing 1/4 tank. Then syphon the gas out of the tank one gallon or so at a time and see where the gauge ends up at. 1/4 tank is going to be about 10.5 gallons. 10.5 / 4 = 2.6 gallons. So one gallon out you should see the gauge close to R. That would mean you have about 1.5 gallons to go... So I would take another gallon out and see where the gauge sits. There are a lot of fellas out there just living with the gas level at full showing the same as you. Good luck and post on this channel if you need a bit more information. Jim.

A longer single float would work until about 1/2 tank. The baffles in the tank keep the arm from going further up. You can see the baffles at 30 seconds into the video. As for proper resistance of the senders, Standard and super there is no difference 10 ohms for full and around 70 for empty. 71-74 SB tanks were the same, then they changed them.

Sounds like your gauge is an aftermarket. Measure the resistance to verify. OEM is about 18 ohms, aftermarket is about 30. You can tweak that aftermarket gauge a bit but you will find that you empty reading will be off. Jim.

@VW Super Beetle fuel tank system very much needed this video! Appreciate it and the information! Trying to join the volkswagen forum page 🙏 slowly falling in love with this thing

@@Hippinn Great. It is a super forum for VW help and info. Jim.

Do you still have your OEM gauge? Resistance is <>18 ohms... Non OEM <>30. If you have an OEM gauge then I would go with the zener type from Jbugs etc. 5.1vdc. Keep the vibrator though. If your gauge is a Non OEM then either the via or the zener type will provide a reading but when full you will read about 3/4 tank. I do not recommend doing the zener diode voltage change. Getting the proper voltage of 6.4vdc for the Non OEM gauge is not avail with zener diodes. You could design a regulator circuit adjustable for 6.4... Or get one of the Buck regulators and go that route. If you decide to do that, watch my videos on them. Let me know if you decide to do that route. Are you a member of the samba? If you are pm me... I am blue69baja there. Jim.

Yes it does switch from 0-5.x..... Thus they call it a vibrator!

@@vwbeetlefuelgaugesystem it causes my test light to act like an emergency flasher. Thought it provided steady 5 volts..

@@TonyMcBride100 If you are using your test light alone hooked to the output of the vibrator it will be flashing pretty fast due to the resistance of the test light! The vibration is designed for 10-70 ohms of the sender AND the resistance of the gauge combined.... The gauge, if OEM is about 18 ohms and the aftermarket is about 32. If you are using the test light with the gauge and sender hooked up it will still flash fast due the parallel resistance. What is your symptoms? Need to use caution doing testing. It does not take much to fry the vibrator and the gauge. Are you a member of thesamba? If you are or if not,join and send me a PM... I can help you there.. blue69baja www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewforum.php?f=3 Jim

Yep clean it up and then use a DVM and measure the ohms empty and full and move it slowly up and down and see if it is stable resistance wise. Using a DVM on ohms scale use the 200 ohms scale. 10 ohms for full and about 70 empty.

@@vwbeetlefuelgaugesystem experiment worked the needle is showing fuel the needle is not 100% stable but at least I know how much gas I have thanks again

Hope you have soldering skills. If you watch the Buck regulator videos You will see that the ideal voltage for the 30+ohms gauge is 6.4 vdc. There are no Zener diodes avail for that voltage. Jim.

Hi, I am away from home and will not be back for a couple of weeks. If you still have a problem could you take a picture to the part you call the switch and lid? So you can not make the assembly work in your hand, not installed? Jim.

As a note, I am not sure what centers the "nozzle"/tab until I look at the assembly. Will need to look at the assembly, Jim.

Thanx for the reponse Jim. Dragged the suspect into custody. It's a ridge, barely to tell, less than 0.5mm high. The disc rides on the contact switch. In the neutral position the disc glides in front of and towards the middle along of it. The ridge got a park position, an arc at the 3'oclock, setting the indicator handle on the left i.e. to 9'oclock. On a turn this disc moves along the ridge, its extension which shall be caught by the wheel eventually moves closer towards the center. Due to the fact the thinner side of the switch moves opposite side, the disc stays always centered. The switch itself got a spring which tightens the indicator handle to keep it in the desired position and drives at the same time the disc into the middle on a turn. After that your video comes into place. Due to the fact that plastic wears and tears with the decades the disc slips over this ridge eventually and that's the end of it i.e. from that on it works faulty as in my case or not at all. An almost unrepairable nasty malicious piece, but makeable for puritans. Will send you some pics once I am finished, as the result with the old disc where not satisfying me. I will replace it with brass and fix it with a solid screw so it still can move along to the ridge but not overcome it anymore. Guess, you'll probably will have a look at the assembly yourself until then anyway so take care of the following to save you a lot of time and anger which I did not as a first time on that issue: The lid is hold into place by a bolt (handle) and a tiny clip on the other side. Don't worry to brake it off, it's hard and unflexible already and in the way eventually. You'll need to drill holes with a thread anyway, I'll show you. Losen the wiring and you can lift and move the metal-lid to the side to get the switch of and out the handle arms. Note! The switch has a strong spring on it nose (front) with a V-shaped plasic cap which clicks into the given gaps on a turne. That shoots out like a bullet and four tiny springs with one or two copper contacts on the bottom easily fall allover the places. How to get that fiddling stuff back in again I'll pic later too, subject you care. It's maybe not worth the effort because someone get the whole indicator new and very cheap at EBay but it is a matter of stubborness to refrain from in our throwaway society ;-)

You can view the manual or download it from here. archive.org/details/1986-1988SuzukiSamuraiFactoryServiceManual/mode/2up

Are you a member of the Zuwharrie technical site. You can look at the Samurai tech on it. Lots of help and info... bbs.zuwharrie.com/content?action=forum;#c6

@@vwbeetlefuelgaugesystem Thanks a lot!!! I am going to search for it now!!

Checked a couple of my old carbs that have never been apart. The choke on both were a bit sluggish when I touched and moved the little tab by the return spring. I sprayed with carb cleaner and the choke would slam shut. Hope this helps ya. Jim.

Yes that is the Idle fuel mixture adjustment only. RPM over <>1500 that adjustment is not used. If you want to adjust it make sure you use a skinny/narrow straight slot screwdriver. You can damage the threads and that would be VERY bad. If it is rich at cold idle then check your cold idle rpm. I like 1700-2100. The cold idle speed adjustment is shown at about 3:10 in my video. This helps the engine burn the excess choke gas and the cold idle lope.. If it is rich above idle and warm then you have an issue with timing, carb or maybe valve adjustments. Hope this helps ya, Jim.

I missed your remarks, sorry. Did you resolve your issue or improve on it? Jim.

Have not done any videos for the carb tear down etc. My bud did a wonderful write up on the carb rebuild and it might help you... Pretty lengthy but it is very good. bbs.zuwharrie.com/content?topic=133663.0

I took this video myself and it is in my shop.... Need some help?

@@vwbeetlefuelgaugesystem Yes,I need help. I have a suzuki samurai with the carburetor in the video, at the first start sits very revved (4500rpm), and after it heats up and decreases rpm less than 1500 dies(as if drowning)

@@canalulluscorpionu9412 Sounds like someone has messed with the adjustments. Look at the video and watch where I point out the cold idle adjustment!.... Turn that screw CCW 1 turn and start the engine cold.. If too high turn continue to turn it until the RPM is about 2000... See how that works. I HOPE that someone has NOT bent that tab that I talk about in the video. Let me know how this adjustment works first. You should become a member of this group and go to the samurai tech part of the forum.... bbs.zuwharrie.com/content

@@vwbeetlefuelgaugesystem I applied the pen advice you gave me and there is no change

@@canalulluscorpionu9412 Fast idle at warmup should be 1500-2000 rpm. Idle at working temp is 850-1000rpm as per the FSM

Some guys on Zuwharrie have put a manual choke on the Hitachi carb. Not an easy job. What issue are you having that needs the choke to be fixed?

The regulators are ready to work you just need to wire it up properly and adjust it prior to installing it. Getting the proper terminals and the protection diode and fuse link requires soldering skills. If you are a member of the samba you can PM me there. I am blue69baja on that forum. I can guide you there. www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/index.php?sid=41a774125c41913b31012a892ec8d1d7

Ace hardware, one that has nuts n bolt. Radio control model store, Amazon... Like: 1/16" collar with set screw. I did not use an exact fit.. Jim

Well, I got it going but it is inconsistent with readings. Probably needs to be replaced after 50 years.

@@randywalters9015 Bummer... Did you install the OEM and it was erratic or was that on the bench. If possible, install it and see how it performs.... Best if you can get a Mexico sender.... J bugs has them but make sure that it is a true Mex sender. I like these guys... vwparts.aircooled.net/Fuel-Tank-Sending-Unit-MX-or-B-All-Super-Beetle-p/113-919-051fmebr.htm If the sender leaks let me know. I have a few larger O rings... I will send ya one. Jim.

I will presume that you have an 87-=89 Zuke with the Hitachi carb and the engine is all stock with OEM emissions still intact! As you know, the Idle up valve is vacuum operated and electronically controlled by the ECM.... There are several things that can keep it from controlling the idle up/down..... 1. The engine compartment/under the hood temp sensor mounted on the firewall. Holds Idle up until the engine room reaches about 60 deg... 2. Engine temp will hold Idle up until the coolant sensor reaches about 170. 3. Generator/battery voltage will engage Idle up if the ECM sees extra load on the gen. Lights, fan... There is a solenoid that the vacuum line from the Idle up vacuum valve is attached. The solenoid has a vacuum input line and it should have vacuum when the engine is running. If the ECU tells the solenoid to turn on then the vacuum will transfer through it to the Idle up solenoid. Check the vacuum coming in to the solenoid... If that is good then it is going to get a bit technical... You might have to go to this website and have us help you there. Lots of threads on just this subject. bbs.zuwharrie.com/content?PHPSESSID=kji5pkfumht5l09q2l8kj5vtnja8bro8hufcb4jr4rtmu36blvhi6qg2q7kb67p6&board=12.0

@@vwbeetlefuelgaugesystem Thank you!

There is no need for schematics. The regulator has + and - labels and in and out... So it is a soldering, adding fused protection, knowing how to put 1/4" connectors on wires properly and the knowledge and use of a DVM.... Read my comments below the video. Here is what I said, " This video is for information. I am not a manufacturer and will not produce this product. I am in hopes that the Vendors will press the Gauge MFG to fix the gauge. Or provide something similar to solve this issue. This gauge regulator applies to buses, Gia's, Beetles std and SB, Things that use the electronic gauge. Doing this project without knowing electronics and soldering is not recommended. Damage to your car could occur. Finalized wiring, showing protection devices for over current/voltage. I assembled the pico fuse package... .5 amps/500ma and installed the 7.5v 5watt zener diode for voltage output protection. I used very flexible wire with high strand count and a silicon based insulation. Caution: The voltage adjustment potentiomenter/screw is a 30 turn potentiometer Turing the screw 20 turns CCW will drop the output voltage into safe voltage to start adjusting! Bench adjustment should be done before installing... Set the output voltage for 6.4vdc. You can use a 9vdc battery for input voltage to set the output voltage. All buck regulators come from the factory set to high voltage output. Adjusting the voltage down to around 2-4 volts before adding the 7.5 volt 5 watt Zener diode is required, if you do not the zener and the regulator will fry. If you have already put the pico fuse on the fuse will blow protecting the Zener. The aftermarket gauges have 32-35 ohms... The set voltage of the Buck regulator seems to work best around 6.4vdc."..... Jim.

@@vwbeetlefuelgaugesystem which regulator did you use? I thought this was one you built. There are dozens but finding a good, easily adjusted one in a nice tight package is a bit more daunting.

It looked like screen shots from a forum thread. I figured you had that info there.

@@TEDodd I went through a few renditions before I settled on this one. After getting it all working I used shrink tubing to cover the regulator. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WQJ2GD6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

@@TEDodd Here is a link to how I ended up packaging and protecting the circuit board. photos.app.goo.gl/J9gezBPezhE5Ez6BA

Are you a member of Zuwarrie Samurai forum? Lots of carb info there. Especially by my bud Zuk4x4. Will find you a link later if you need it. I should do another video about the MCVS and the accelerator pump valve.... Zuk4x4 and I did some really good stuff about how the emissions work and the ECM... No real videos but we learned how the system operates... Jim

@@vwbeetlefuelgaugesystem thanks for the tip! I haven’t been on that forum, so yes I would appreciate the link. I have lots manuals but I’m such a visual learner that I do better with videos. My old brain just doesn’t pick up things quickly like it did decades ago! As the saying goes, “one picture is worth a 1000 words.”

@@brucegolder8726 Bru, the thread my bud did currently is missing pictures. You will have to check the website periodically to see if the Moderator has fixed the issue. It has happened before... Here is the link, lots of information on this website. Note that there is a special section for Samurai's. bbs.zuwharrie.com/content?topic=133663.msg1316071

Pictures are there now... bbs.zuwharrie.com/content?topic=133663.msg1316071#msg1316071

Oops... Here is 1 cm in inches 0.393701... VW owners are all over the world. The US is about the only country that uses the IMPERIAL measurement system, yard, foot and inches. For accurate measurements the metric is so much easier. As for driving I love the Imperial system! I can see 5,280 ft... but in metric... I am lost... hahahaaa.

Germany, the home of VW, is dominated by metric units. Using imperial units can crash an airplane.

No. Get fucked

It is in quite a few places. I got it from Thesamba years ago. The resistance readings are exact as you can see in my videos. The resistances of the gauge and sender have to be a matching set...All OEM elect VW gauges and senders all worked at those resistances. Buses included. www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/index.php?sid=71f3ea98cb54562d47efc82f51d228bb

@@vwbeetlefuelgaugesystem ok tx. I'm trying to work on my fuel gauge too

Are you a member of the samba? If you are you can PM me from there and I can work with you if needed. Jim

I am blue69baja on the samba.

@@vwbeetlefuelgaugesystem I'm not a member yet, but likr to visit it for refference

Hi campion.... You did not say if you had a vibrator or a regulator device. That is not important at this time but would be if you are going to determine what is going on with your gauge. A quick test to see if the gauge and reg/vib is working but not a complete test. Have someone sitting it the drivers seat. Key off. Remove the sender wire off of the center lug of the sender... While holding the wire have your assistance turn the key on.... The gauge needle should not move!~ Cautiously connect that sender wire spade lug to the sender assembly, not the sender lug. The gauge should go to full! Quickly if you gauge has a vibrator and kinda slow if it is a regulator. Do not leave that wire touched to ground/frame/sender body more than 5 seconds if the needle swings quick to full... That would mean that you have a vibrator and that the gauge and vibrator is good. Leave it on maybe 10 seconds for the regulator type. If the needle swings nearly all the way in that 10 seconds then all is good there. If the needle performs as it should then the sender is most likely the issue. You can review my video to see which type of voltage regulation you have... Vibrator or regulator on my video here. If you have more questions just provide a reply... Jim kzbin.info/www/bejne/aGqsZKKbi8-Kfqs

The bottom adjustment is a fine tune adjustment. I have found it to be of no effect. Can I ask why you are going to adjust the gauge? Review this video and my comments. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fnSben5qeciXp8U

Haw, I just realized who you are...ahahaaaa.... I'm your neighbor with the Blue SB and the Baja..

Haw, caught me with my pants down. After doing a couple of EMPi senders I was not happy with the short arm bending that I talked about in the video thus I deleted it and was going to do another. As time went by I was really busy re-designing the Vibrator/regulator... I did not like all the things that was needed to get the aftermarket gauge to work properly. The resistance of the AM gauges were not the same as OEM. While doing all the recent redesign of the regulator I installed the new regulator/buck type and a non-calibrated gauge in my 72... It works very good. I also made up 4 systems for guys to test. They sent me the parts, sender and gauge then I did the calibration to the sender and gauge if needed. I packaged up the system and sent it to them. The Mexico sender is the best of all the senders but it too might need a bit of full stop calibration. Empty not so much. Along with all of this I recently had to have bypass surgery and a heart valve replaced in my old 75 year old ticker...hahaha. I am just getting back to normal. 5 weeks. If you would like some help PM me at the samba vw forum. I am blue69baja on the forum.. Here is the buck regulator that I was working on. There are 5 of these installed in fellas Vw's and are being tested. kzbin.info/www/bejne/sHe5YYZ7o8t5fpY

@@vwbeetlefuelgaugesystem many thanks B69B, hope the valve replacement went well and youre fully recovered and beeltin' round again. I thought I remembered a video where the LONG float arm was adjusted?? I had a look through your profile pic on samba and found a couple that are semi relevant but not what i think i neeed. my gauge goes from full to empty in approx 35miles and I figure its to do with needing to bend the long arm down ?? are you able to enlighten me any ? :)

@@jeremyraudys7230 Hi Jeremy.... I have been so busy with home projects I have not been able to revisit the EMPI sender arm bending project..... Probably be another couple of months.

@@jeremyraudys7230 You say your gauge goes from F to E in 35 miles.... That is not an arm bending issue. Even if the long arm were missing or the float came off the F to E would be about 6 gallons of gas used! The long arm controls the short arm from about 1/2 tank to empty. So what is your problem? It sounds like the sender is not reading right because it is not sending the correct resistance to the gauge.... If you remove the sender and can move the short arm around and watch the gauge you should see that the gauge is not reading correctly.

@@jeremyraudys7230 I am writing these replies in different replies because things get confusing. Is your gauge aftermarket or OEM? Is your vibrator OEM or do you have the plastic/metal type that is a regulator. ? If you would like more help got to the samba and send me a PM... I am blue69baja... Jim

What did you do to fix your gauge?

@@vwbeetlefuelgaugesystem Fuel gauge started to read empty. I joined together the two fuel sender wires and fuel gauge read full. Put new sender in the tank. Filled the tank and the gauge read 1/2 tank. Then I pulled the speedo and put on a new vibrator from Jbugs and the gauge went to 7/8. I haven’t drove the car enough to know how the gauge works through to empty.

@@scottwrite633 Well run it and see what happens down to the 1/4 tank or so... Do you have a dvm to read the resistances? <>33 ohms from the sender with the center wire disconnected. R would be around 47 ohms.

@@vwbeetlefuelgaugesystem I have a dvm and will check it when it gets down to 1/4 or so. I have two wires on the sender. A yellow and a brown.... I should unplug the yellow wire and test ohms across the two sender prongs???

@@scottwrite633 Yep. Yellow wire is on the center connection. Great that you have a DVM!

Yep clean it up and then use a DVM and measure the ohms empty and full and move it slowly up and down and see if it is stable resistance wise. Using a DVM on ohms scale use the 200 ohms scale.

Empi will hang up on the baffles if tightened too far. Omw should not hang!

Is your VW a Super Beetle? The SB is the only one that has an issue of the long arm hanging. If you have a true VDO sender there is no problem. You can fully lock the sender all the way CW... The issue is only with EMPI and Classic line by JP Power Groups. There is a sender avail that is made in Mexico. It will not cause the long arm to hang either. As a note, you can not hear or feel if the long arm float is dragging on the baffles in the Super Beetle tank

It will be accurate to about 1/2 tank, sadly it will show empty at about 1/3 tank. The short arm hits the top of the tank at full and moves down with the gas as it moves downward towards empty. At about 1/2 tank the long arm gets into play controlling the short arm.... If you decide to get a new sender get the Mexico one! It is pretty accurate with no modifications most of the time. Do not order from Parts Geek.. They say they have Mexico senders $50 and then they charge you for the Mex sender but send the $30 EMPI. Empi will be inaccurate! You can see the difference here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/epKroaien7Opr6M Air-cooled folks have the Mex.. vwparts.aircooled.net/Fuel-Tank-Sending-Unit-MX-or-B-All-Super-Beetle-p/113-919-051fmebr.htm Jbugs says they have them but I would call them to order. Making sure they understand that you want the Mex. If your gauge is aftermarket you will not get a good reading without using the Buck Regulator Like my video shows or modifying the gauge and adding modified aftermarket vibrator/regulator. I would not at this time recommend that. The buck regulator with the protection is the way to go. Are you a member of Thesamba? www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewforum.php?f=3 I am blue69baja. You can PM me there for help. Jim

@@vwbeetlefuelgaugesystem Thanks Jim. I also have the mexican sender as backup. I was really hoping to just use the VDO sender. I wonder if I could the long arm of an EMPI sender and attach it to the VDO, but it probably wouldn't work because the floats are different. I will probably just end up using the mexican float in the end. Thanks again for your help. Yes, I am a member of Samba and just found your thread on the forum 👍