There's actually a bolt hole that comes like that from the factory, that allows you to insert (something in this case a catch can) and tighten down the bolt to the bracket to the engine block where it is located, etc. It is located on the front of the engine block right next to and near the area of the thermostat housing, timing cover, valve cover, and intake manifold. It's a very tiny bolt hole. It's in that area/vicinity, etc. Hope that helps!!

@@_Srt-616 I got you bro!! Im going to do a video on how it sits, right now, I'm loving the look of the rears, I might do the fronts as well!!

@@EvanTheMenace💪.. that was what was holding me back. I wasn't sure if the back being lowered on the eibachs would match the stock height up front. You da man Evan !

@@anthonygallegos5198 Please check the video description for that information. Hope that helps!

I sure can!!! I did actually record how it sounds inside the cabin. Both cruising around normally and of course opening it up alongside some flybys. I just need to finalize the video edit and I should have it posted sometime later this weekend or early next week! ✊💯 Thank you for reminding me and for the great video idea as well!!!

@EvanTheMenace sounds great brotha, thanks for these videos I have a 2010 model and I'm just a couple clicks away on shipping it but just want to make 150% sure its the one I want. Thank you!

A+A+

@@MrMoonsilver Yes, the glass is removable without having to take everything apart!

You are amazing, thank you so much! Keep up tue great channel, really useful and well made content there!

@@danielpichardo4878 Yes they are!

Sorry about that! Just the way the video went and how it was taken during that time! Next time, it will be short and sweet!

Honestly, I do not want to say because if I were to sell it, then people will know or use that number against me and it will be difficult to try and sell the car with the right number in mind (meaning the number I would want to get in terms of price), later down the line, etc. I would honestly fix it if possible as opposed to parting it out. Although parting it out may be more difficult you may fetch more as opposed to selling the car as is. I was able to fix it because I am mechanically inclined and I did not put much into it as it wasnt that bad of a fix to begin with. Hope that helps!!

@@EvanTheMenace thanks for the reply, I understand. I’ve considered replacing my head gasket but would rather just sell it as is and be done with it. I have little to no extra time to work on it

@@redthebarber9611 I agree with everything you just said. Not everyone has time or the means to be able to fix a car with a blown head gasket. What I would say is look at what a low mileage 300c srt8 is selling for in roughly good to excellent condition and minus $5 to about $10,000 off the price and that should give you the realistic price you should sell it around at. Hope this finally bit of information helps you!

@@EvanTheMenace thanks, that does help.

I gotchu G! Here's the link: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3739803&cc=1443403&pt=7556&jsn=876 Also, there's other ones you can look at as well, if you're interested but I have no complaints with the ones I went with initially. KYB's for the win. Hope that helps!

@@EvanTheMenace I went with the KYB EXCEL-G Thank you!

Motor does not need to come out nor does the supercharger!! First, you will need to buy a good universal crankshaft puller tool (either from amazon, Ebay, etc) or buy the specific one for our Jaguars (which I bought from Ebay). After that you can remove the big crank pulley and remove the timing cover to remove and install the new timing cover seals (both top and bottom). Then reinstall everything back together. When reinstalling the crank pulley, you can reuse the same bolt (just clean the threads and apply red loctite) or buy a new one from the dealership or from anywhere online, etc. After that, you can torque the crank pulley bolt down to 275ft pounds! Hope that helps!!!

@@EvanTheMenaceThank you a lot!)

@@EvanTheMenaceBefore, do I need to remove a radiator fan?

@@AndreasRitt Anytime my man!!

@@AndreasRitt Yes!! Radiator fan needs to be removed to allow for more access/room to install the crank pulley tool!!

My 2009 Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT8. Mine were located one on the Driver Side Inner Fender Liner Wall, Passenger Side Inner Fender Liner Wall and the other one in the Right Rear of the vehicle, towards the trunk space/area underneath. After some reading online: There are two tire pressure monitoring systems (TPMS) available for the 2007 - 2013 Chrysler/Jeep Compass and Patriot, a base system and a premium system. Personally, what I would do, just to be sure, if possible, is that you will need to check/pull the fender liner area in the front side (both sides of the vehicle) and specifically check to see where they are and how many you have. Also, do the same for the rear. Also, to note, make sure you buy good quality TPMS Sensors for your tires. Sometimes, the sensors you buy may actually throw off the reading and/or cause a system error within the TPMS module itself. When I first bought the Jeep, I opted to buy cheap ones from Amazon. Later on, I was having a hard time figuring out why the TPMS module was not working and/or displaying the same error code. I decided to change the TPMS sensors (one was not displaying up on the dashboard anyways) with some higher quality ones from Rock Auto and that solved my issue!!! Hope that helps!!

Good eyes! It was the light mist of fogging oil that I sprayed which I then wiped down (off camera) in those areas to remove the fluid that you see present in the video. It was overspray!

@@EvanTheMenace gotcha but it will still cause a hydrolocked stud. Glad you got it sorted before assembly

No! Jaguar XJR Cylinder Head! The same concept applies for any cylinder head though.

No, no! Prior to this, I actually had connected my leakdown gauge because I was getting a misfire in two different cylinders (cylinders 5 & 7). Which prompted me to further diagnose and find out the current health of the motor. So I decided to hook up my leak down tester gauge, I inputted 100psi on the left gauge and on the right gauge I was getting 77 psi (showing roughly 22psi of leakage). While the gauge was hooked up still, I was hearing air hissing around the valve spring area (valve covers off) as well as air filling up the crankcase or the bottom of the motor after pulling the oil dipstick and hearing air rushing up from it. So I pulled the cylinder heads (bottom of the block will be coming to replace the piston rings) and I decided to look at it using this method demonstrated in the video and also help others as well. Doesn't hurt to test and verify that the valves are actually leaking and to also double check your work! Great Question! ✊💯

Pretty well actually! No complaints! The jeep rides pretty smoothly, it's nice and firm and the rear shocks seem to handle the imperfect roads well! Way better than the blown original shocks that were on it before! However, if these shocks ever do go bad, I do plan or do want to try the RANCH shocks from RockAuto, just to see how they will perform on the road

Glad to hear, I’m looking around at shocks for my 09 at the moment. Trying to get some input before I make a decision

Yes, I have! Super easy! You can easily find them on rockauto or any other website that is offering them for a good price. Jack the rear end up, spray the bolts with some penatrating fluid, remove the old sway bar end links and install the new ones in the reverse order! After the install, you'll notice that the rear end is much tighter especially when going over small imperfections or uneven surfaces in the road! Hope that helps!

@@EvanTheMenace thank you!

Yes I do! Got them off Amazon: Scosche Compatible with Select Import and Domestic Vehicles Universal 6" x 9" to 5.25" - 6.5" Speaker Adapters (1 Pair) SA69, black a.co/d/3Pz7pKZ

Yes, it is! It's a 2001 Jaguar XJR (US Model - Non R1) with factory suspension. Nothing has been touched, changed or modified, etc. Everything is all original!

@@EvanTheMenace well thank you for your content my man I appreciate that make some more! I still have stuff to fix on mine 😂👍

Thanks man! I greatly appreciate it! I'm not entirely sure but I believe it has to be the one on the far left side (facing rear bumper straight at it). I believe that the rear sensors are numbered: 11, 10, 9, 8. In that specific order, if I'm correct. However, if it isn't, you have to remove the rear bumper anyway to get access to all the sensors regardless. What I would do is remove that sensor, install the new one, clear the code and see if that works (code should not come back) if that sensor was actually malfunctioning or bad to begin with. If that wasn't the case continue on to the next sensor and so on and so forth. Hope that helps!

Well on mine, when I would put it in reverse that light bar wouldn't illuminate (service park assist) and reversing I would not hear the indication beeps (as you backup the beeps get significantly louder) letting you know you are close to something, etc. I immediately knew something was wrong with that piece or something correlated to that. So, I hooked up my scan tool and went into the body module and found that code associated with the service park assist (light bar for reverse indication). I looked for an Ebay replacement part, hooked it up, cleared the code and the unit was working perfectly again. If you believe, the sensor's in the rear bumper are not working, more than likely a code would be present for the sensors. Hope that helps!