Hello, this gramophone is a double spring model. The new springs come cable tied with heavy duty ties. My replacement spring had 3 ties. Some people have commented on the approach of fitting the springs into the drum with the ties attached. This in my opinion is nonsense for a couple of reasons. The springs come pre-wound tight, but mine would not go into the drum as they are not wound tightly enough to fit into the drum. Secondly, assuming you can get the springs into the drum, as you cut the ties the springs would expand into the drum trapping the ties against the wall of the drum. I believe It would not be possible to remove the ties at this point. I see how people might think this would work, however, I haven't seen it done this way myself. The best place for gramophone springs is the internet or eBay. There are not many sellers left these days. It may be that once you get the old one(s) out you might be able to repair it or just refit depending on what caused the failure. I hope this helps and good luck. Thank you for your comment.

@@dembydish ok Thanks I’ve not ever worked on any gramophone in any way, apart from using different ones to upload to my KZbin channel. The spring in my HMV 130 is of course a double spring, it has been replaced once with a reconditioned one. I only want to buy another double as a future spare. The other gramophone in question that I want to try to replace a spring is a HMV 112. Is that a single or double do you know ? What you say about the cable ties and spring instalment now yes makes sense, thanks. But I hope to have a go at this spring replacement in the future, when I build a shed to work in and soon. I’m in my late 60s and don’t want senility to set-in before I try repairing the gramophone 🙂🙂

@@javierfonseca-sg7ku Thank you your kind comment, I hope the video is useful to you.

@@hugonotti9192 Hello Hugo, clock springs... . I'm guessing here but I'm thinking large clocks, maybe Grandfather clocks? Anyway, the gramophone is still going strong and still making music. Thank you for your comment.

Wall clocks and the like, also older kitchen clocks. They get up to 1" in width and quite substantial thickness as well.

Good morning. I rewired my home so I was aware of the location of the service entrance cables. Otherwise, I would have checked first. Always a good idea to verify these things for any home owner. Thank you for your comment and please subscribe if you feel inclined.

I forgot to measure it with a pressure gauge, but it was noticeably better. I was more concerned that it is up to spec and will last me out and I got rid of the lead. There's peace of mind especially as the pipe runs under the driveway (which is now finished!) Thank you for your kind comment.

@@dembydish That's great. United Utilities regs are different for my area in the NW, they recommend 100mm ducting, whereas I think you used 55mm. I bought 110mm Twinwall ducting and for the end caps I bought Multikwik Drain & Waste Adaptor MKUAB 2283. There are different brands that make exactly the same thing and even some in B&Q but basically its a rubber soil waste reducer cap which I can cut a cross section to feed the mains 25mm MDPE pipe snugly through. I got my caps of ebay, £10 for a pack of 2.

That's very interesting. Thank you for your comment..

You are most welcome. Thank you for your kind comment, glad I could help.

Remove all screws holding the logo. Replace one, but only screw into the speaker grill.. Do not screw through into wood behind it. Pry the speaker grill off. Shouldn't need much force.

@@dembydish I ended up using a small pry bar and a loop of stiff wire under the nameplate. One screw would have pulled out with this much force, but I finally tore the panel loose.

@@basspigI'm glad you fixed it. The power of Velcro!

@@dembydish I think it was more of a frame fit issue. The cabinet was too small and the baffle a tad to large. I had the same problem pulling the amplifier for repair. It was jammed in there such that I had to use a pry bar to pull it out.

I’m not being funny it’s kind of in the name

Tool steel has changed over the years. The tools your grandfather had weren't alloy tool steel. His tools just weren't as hard as tools are now. So the stones he used aren't as effective with modern tools either.

Thank you so much!

Thank you for your comment. The guitar still plays great (for its vintage type).

I've never fully crank the handle to the point where it stops. I go by feel and turn slowly and steadily. I also occasionally wind it up with the platter turning. As long as it plays one side of the 78 (between winds) I'm happy with that. It's an old machine so I treat it carefully. Thanks for your comment.

Is there a site for spare parts site . Ta.

Start with the fuse and plug wiring, then check if the mains on/off switch is working correctly.

@@dembydish my model has fdd No serviceable power cord And from what I have read the fuse is inside the amp So I will have to take it apart

@@dembydish yes the power switch could have went bad But I will look for the fuse first I will give you the exact model # when I get back Thanks

OK, this video may be useful in how to approach getting to the fuse. The glass fuses are generally available on eBay if that's the issue.

@@dembydish I replaced the power switch and fuse still nothing and while pulling board out to inspect it the main vol pot snapped had to piss amp off keep it for parts I bought a Marshall code 25 for $152.00

Thank you for your comment, and I'm glad the video helped. Happy cycling to you too!

Very informative video, thank you! My Pashley Britannia unfortunately has a different way of connecting the gear cable to the hub at the back and I can't figure out how to disconnect it. I've given up and am going to take it to a shop tomorrow to get it sorted!

Thank you very much for your comment and yes.. I do still use it and it still plays well!