🤯

You've only driven 100 kilometers since the job was completed? I take it you haven't identified the source of the noise just yet. Is it a persistent sound? It’s tough to speculate on what it might be without actually hearing it, but if you’re confident that everything was done properly and the timing is accurate, I'm not sure what to think. How does it sound when it's idling?

@ I’ve bought this car because the timing chain has to be changed on it so I’ve done the job and she’s working perfectly any noise but after 100 kilometres she’s start again to making noise but not the same… it’s tricky to explain here do you have Facebook or something so I can explain to you better and send you some videos too. Thanks

Sure. The_Nonnell on instagram. Feel free to reach out. 🙏

😂 oh man. This one had me going. Glad in the end it was an “easy fix”.

Yes, I do have it, but I'm planning to sell it. Sadly, my back problems have limited my ability to drive it, and I don’t want it to just gather dust in my garage. I’m hoping it will go to someone who can appreciate and make use of it.

@@TheNonnell I hope your going to the VA now.

I never tried using a regular filter wrench. The tool I used is relatively inexpensive and it fits perfectly for the job. I’ve used it without fail for well over 100k miles.

It sounds like you have some exciting upgrades planned for your GX! After changing the rotors and pads on both my GX and LX, I personally recommend sticking with stock rotors and pads. One major challenge I've faced recently is that my LX rotors needed resurfacing after just 50,000 miles, and unfortunately, no one will resurface drilled and slotted rotors. With this in mind, I'm opting to replace my rotors with OEM or OEM+ options. As for the pads, I'm using Akebono, which I've heard are the same ones Lexus installs at the factory, and they have performed exceptionally well. For my future maintenance, I’ll definitely return to OEM-style rotors. Also, SSW Off-road has some great wheels for Lexus/Toyota.

@TheNonnell I 100% agree on the cross drilled and slotted. I had a set on my 08 Lexus IS250 RWD about 12 years ago and did not care for them at all. I didn't like the feeling that resonated through the pedal when braking. They were not very high end which could have made them feel even worse but I can't remember what brand they even were. I've never had or put another set of cross drilled and slotted on any car I've ever owned since because of. I like the smoothness of high quality plain rotors like you were saying. Unless you have a higher performance car, they are completely unnecessary in my opinion. Ive had no problems with my oem rotors and pads on my GX460. I just need to replace them all now and unfortunately Toyota/Lexus doesn't make an oem 6 lug application rotor in the width that Wilwwod/RR Racing recommends pairing with these Wilwood 6 Piston Calipers. You can read all about this Wilwood Front Big Brake Kit upgrade on RR Racings website. It was put together by RR Racing specifically for the Lexus GX470/GX460 and 4 Runners. If Toyota/Lexus did make an oem brake rotor in the size this big brake kit calls for I would deff get them. The only options that RR Racing offers to go with this Wilwood Big Brake Kit are Centric and DBA Rotors. Only the Centrics are a plain rotor though so I wouldn't even consider the DBA rotors. I have heard good and bad things about these particular Centric Rotors so I'm not really set on going with them. Do you know of or have any suggestions on plain rotors that are 338mm x 32mm besides Centric?? Oem Toyota/Lexus GX460 Rotors are 338mm x 27.5mm. I don't know what the width is on any of the oem Lexus LX570 rotors is but it doesn't I really matter as they are all 5 lug rotors so they won't fit on the GX460 anyway. For the pads I am most likely going with Akebono or EBC. That's why I didn't know if I should go with oem rotors and or pads in the rear as in the front the rotors and pads I will be going with are aftermarket. I mean I guess technically you could use the oem rotors with their 27mm width but it would somewhat downgrade the function of upgrading to a 6 Piston Caliper in the first place. The wheels & tires I'm getting are quite a bit bigger as well which is why I think upgrading to larger breaks at least in the front is a good idea. They are 18x9 and will be wrapped in a 275/75R18 tire so the upgarded brakes in front should increase stopping power. The thicker rotor allows for greater thermal expansion reducing the possibility of warpage and prolonging the rotor life. I personally think the oem Toyota/Lexus calipers, rotors and pads are excellent and you can't go wrong with them if your GX460 has stock size wheels and tires. If you are upgrading to much wider wheels like I am and much bigger tires than a high quality brake upgrade kit can only help. I will say though for the size and weight of the GX460 the size brakes the Lexus decided to go is borderline is too small to begin with. I made an appointment and went to The Car Care Nut guys shop about a year and a half ago and he asked me if I have ever owned a GX460 before and I told him no. He said we'll they go through brakes quicker than other vehicles that are this size and weight because of them being on the small side.

Thank you for your feedback! I had no idea there were so many ads. It’s quite a lengthy video, after all. If you managed to watch through all of them, I really appreciate your patience-those ads help support my channel and the projects I’m working on. 🤝

😂 you’re 100% correct.

@TheNonnell congratulations

Thanks! I retired last May. It’s been a transition, but I’ve enjoyed it.

It turned out to be simpler than I expected. What did you think?

Nice! If you have any questions feel free to reach out on instagram and I’ll do my best to help.

For sure. Always willing to help where I can. 🤝 thanks!

That’s a good deal. My barber is an hour away, so most of the time I cut my own hair.

The only two rivnuts that were drilled out were the ones that were stripped. They were successfully replaced with new rivnuts, effectively resolving the issue.

I ordered them from rockauto.com.

​@TheNonnell .. thats the 4.0L engine right?

Yes. It’s the 4.0L engine.

It’s not too difficult. Instead of reaching through the viewport, I approach from the side and utilize the opening to see the filter.

Per the we website: (The optional Winch Frame allows for installation of TJM Torq and WARN Zeon 9500 winches). Looks like it would be an additional fee.

Oh man. I don’t even remember. If I touched it then it was replaced. New hoses, seals, o-rings. Was there a specific area you were referring to?

The rear bottom bolt is the trickiest one, but I think a thin layer of RTV would not hurt.

You’re very welcome!

Awe man. No good. I still couldn’t tell you exactly where the water came from on mine. This was one of the most troubling jobs for me. I can deal with a lot but I do not like a leaky vehicle. After taking off all the trim in the rear I’m more confident that the leaking was coming from the back glass moldings and the trim that sits underneath them. Also, my subwoofer box had a lot of water in it and rusted the speaker. Something to consider. If you’re able to, I would suggest taking out the back paneling and carpet to do some water tests. I wish you the best of luck. 🤞

@@TheNonnell Thanks! That is the plan. Have some time in the next few days to start removing stuff. I appreciate the reply!

Thanks! I was very fortunate with this X. The previous owner kept it immaculate and all service was up to date. As much as I love it, I think I may part ways with it in the coming year.

The rack and pinion was in the way so I was unable to remove it completely; however, that did not stop me from taking off the timing cover. Do you mean, is there a specific way the crank bolt needs to be torqued?

@@TheNonnell Knowing in advance that bolt does not need to be removed completely to remove the timing cover helps a lot. Torque-to-yield bolts are considered one time use, so I was curious if the Nissan Xterra crankshaft bolt is like that. I will check the Nissan Service Manual.

@ I replaced mine. It was inexpensive. I’m not sure if it called for it but I thought it would be a good idea.

Unfortunately, it was totaled. Camry Series Ep.5 - Kamilla's Goodbye! *EMOTIONAL* kzbin.info/www/bejne/nIOxgoith85qqcU

Thanks. Project cars are the gifts that keep giving. Always fun to learn a new skill. 🙏

Thanks! 🙏

Absolutely! It's time for me to create an update video. The SMOD incident occurred when my Xterra hit approximately 189,000 miles. I’m still behind the wheel of the Xterra, which is on the verge of reaching 227,000 miles. I had a new radiator installed and performed several coolant and transmission flushes when the issue was discovered. There’s definitely a reason to be optimistic! 🙌

@@TheNonnell I appreciate the information and I did watch bother videos. I will keep eye out for your next video. Thanks again, as soon as I get a few things squared her I plan to replace the radiator and flush it. Course will not be driving it until it is done.

I'm not an expert in audio systems, but I recently had to replace the subwoofer in my Lexus. Unfortunately, the replacement speaker didn't match the factory's ohm rating. The technician informed me that due to this mismatch, I would have to increase the volume to achieve the same sound level as before. I don't know the specifications for the Camry, but it seemed to produce better sound and was definitely louder with its factory radio, especially after having new aftermarket speakers installed. The Camry has never had any audio problems relating to this installation. I hope that helps. I found this Reddit page that may help explain more: www.reddit.com/r/CarAV/comments/pozovb/replacing_8ohm_speakers_with_4ohm/

I bet so. I was fortunate that this Lexus was rust free. The frame and under carriage components looked great.

Indeed, that's the disappointing aspect of the job. While swapping out the part itself doesn't take long, the real time-consuming task lies in disassembling everything and then reassembling it all.

I completely agree. It would have been fantastic to experience a straightforward process for removing and installing this dashboard. It seems that with older model cars, the connections and installation procedures are often more complicated than necessary. I found myself scratching my head at some of the engineering.

Thanks. Just when I think I’ve done the hardest job on my vehicle, I prove myself wrong. 😆

😆 it was extensive for sure, but fortunately I had another vehicle to drive and a garage for the Lexus while I did the work.

😆 yeah. Did not happen.

Similar price per hour here in the US. I think it took me roughly 6 hours to take everything out over a few days and about the same amount to put everything back together. It took me over a month to complete the job as I decided to replace several other parts while I was in there. Waiting for parts to come in was my biggest hold up. Overall, it’s not a very complex job, just need patience. 😁

@@TheNonnell 150 aus is over 200 us .just replaced heater tees that was hard enough no chance of do that job

I agree. Replacing my tees is what got me into this mess. Also, replacing Tees and laying across the engine is one of the most uncomfortable things I’ve had to do.

Yes. It should be same for left and right. 7550660031.

Not that I can recall. Obviously, for drilling purposes it would have made more sense for it to be in the up position.

Ok gotcha, thank you! Very helpful video :)

I would refer you to your owners manual. I did not add any additive.

I’m not 100%, but I want to say it was 2005-2009.

@@TheNonnell I'm trying to buy a 2013 Xterra 4pro. 200,000 Miles. $8888.

@@Stavros1977 I’m pretty sure anything after 2009 doesn’t have those issues. I haven’t heard of any problems relating to that with later model 2nd Gens.

@ ok thank you very much for reply. I’m picking up the xterra next week n plan on doing 2 inch lift.

@@Stavros1977 PRO 4X will be nice! Congratulations and best wishes.

Right on! It’s hard to find someone to do it exactly how you want. 🙌

Yes. Available on Amazon. a.co/d/9geiNqu

I'm assuming E-6000 is a type of adhesive? It's not very expensive to get a replacement nozzle and pop it in. My nozzle never popped out but it did start to leak. Since replacing with a new nozzle I haven't had any issues.

@TheNonnell yes it's a popular industrial adhesive sold everywhere

You’ll have to disconnect the AHC line to the shocks, but you shouldn’t lose a lot of fluid. Maybe check the reservoir after you’ve completed the job and started the truck to make sure the level is in spec.

Appreciate it! It turned out better than I anticipated. 🙌

Good to know. I throw it out now.

Can you give me the time in the video where that came from? Thanks. I don’t recall the question from memory.

@TheNonnell I wasn't brought up in the video it was just shown in the video that the main timing chain tensioner had the locking clip on, it's because I was told it had to be removed

What is the time mark in the video you’re referencing? I’ll go back and look. Thanks

Thanks 👍

I use an 18-inch ratchet. Its length allows me to loosen stubborn bolts, and once they’re released, it effortlessly removes them.

There is a bolt that clamps the two sides of the mount together around the filter. Simply loosen the mount and pull the old fuel filter out.

😂 if only I had the time

@@TheNonnell 😂😂 I feel this deep in my soul.

You’re welcome! Honestly, I can’t remember how much things cost, but I bought all my parts from rockauto. I’d assume you could buy everything for $250 or less.

@@TheNonnell awesome man! Thank you again!!!