update, just looked at the data,, different pinout, so not a drop in equivalent, BUT an EBF32 IS same pinout as 6B8... tut tut, Philips!

EBF's are very common in Aussie Radios

@@exeterslab7781 octal ones?? EBF80 and 89 and UBF80 and 89 B9A types were extremely common here in the UK! the USA DDPs 6B8G or GT or 12C8GT were used here 'sometimes' i have a NZ radio i think? that uses an octal DDP but not sure of type number, certainly not EBF something,

I use a JVC Everio. I do know the Mic is quite sensitive. Not sure if it has AGC though

@@exeterslab7781 Okay, thanks for the answer, it is not a big question, or problem.

Great and simple definition Chris :)

I did and have no idea how it works lol. I'm going to use the case for my signal tracer

Hey Chris, I'm not embarrassed to say I would have no idea how to fault find that gizmo. Honestly, IC chips leave me cold lol

Hey Buff, wow, you know your stuff and most of it is way over my head, I'm really still a newbie lol. Thanks Man, I'll re read your comments a few times and it should start to make more sense to me. Thanks for the info :)

⁠​⁠@@exeterslab7781 lol sorry rereading it I haven’t really worded it right. So I’ll try and make it a bit clear So put aside what I said above for a moment. Imagine how the DC supply provided by the rectifier and smoothing capacitor is distributed throughout the receiver. If you go to 11:43 in your video where you show the schematic of the power supply? V4 is a double diode rectifier it has 2 anodes and a common cathode right, and remember that in order for current to flow through the cathode the cathode has to be negative with respect to either of the 2 anodes ok? So it’s exactly like soldering the cathodes of 2 solid state diodes together. As each of the top and bottom connection of the secondary winding of the transformer labeled L10 goes positive (in anti phase to each other) with respect to the centre tap each of the 2 anodes will conduct on one half of each cycle. R13 is connected to chassis earth and therefore references the chassis as 0V wrt to the bottom end of C18. So C18 is the main reservoir capacitor and I think you measured the voltage across it with your DVM before and after you changed C18 and the voltage was higher after you changed it? So without seeing the rest of the circuit the HT (I think the Yanks call it the B+) supply rail looks like the one above R12 which probably goes to the anode of your AF output valve via the primary winding of the AF output transformer? R12 looks like a dropper resistor and I would imagine that R11 probably connects to the top of C21 forming a potential divider? I’f this is the case then R12 and R11 form a potential divider and C21 is a supply decoupler and this supply will be lower than the HT and will probably be the screen supply to the valves. So that’s the supply distribution, now let’s imagine if C18 starts to go a bit leaky? What happens here is that a thing called ESR (effective series resistance) starts to go higher in value. What this means is as the capacitor ages it’s like having a series resistor inside the capacitor and even though it will still charge up and hold a charge, if you try to draw a reasonable amount of current from it then instead of the output voltage remaining at the full voltage it was when it was previously charged via V4, the output voltage dips instead of remaining high. That’s the job of the reservoir capacitor to keep the supply rail voltage across it as close to the charging voltage between the 2 positive halves of the output cycle? Hopefully you are still with me? So let’s imagine now if you are listening to a station with the volume really low and if your were to put an oscilloscope onto the HT rail (bottom of C18) then you would hopefully see a fairly smooth DC HT voltage (something around 150V DC ??).But now if you turn up the volume, the AF Output valve current will increase as you turn up the volume, yes? In fact the current through the valve and through the AF output transformer will vary with the say the voice of the person or the music that is being received as the signal. Now what we don’t want to happen is the audio signal as it gets louder, ie turn up the volume, to start to appear on the HT rail and that’s what happens when the reservoir capacitor C18 becomes leaky as we call it, like I said due to the ESR value in ohms increasing. So, what will happen if the main HT supply rail, starts to drop down and go up in time with the audio being received? Well for starters the screen supply may be affected if say C21 was also suffering with increased ESR but that’s not the main problem. What happens is that the IF amplifier valve HT supply also dips up and down. So hold that thought. Now let’s look at AGC, automatic gain control. So when we are say listening to an AM radio signal that is strong in signal strength ie we are just down the road from the transmitter station, we will need to turn down our volume as the signal will just boom out of the speaker. But when we retune to a weak signal, we have to turn the volume up and so therefore when we tune back to the first station it blows our eardrums out because we forgot to turn the bloody thing down! Also imagine driving in your car having to constantly be adjusting the volume control as you drive towards and away from the transmitter. Not to mention selective fading which occurs mainly above 2 to 3 MHz but can be lower than anyway, this will also cause the same problem. So we have AGC which is a magic little circuit built into the receiver that does the job of keeping the output volume as constant as possible. It does this my monitoring the level of the output signal from the IF Amp, if we got a strong signal, we get a huge signal out and if it’s weak we therefor get a weak signal. So if we turned our IF signal amplitude into a DC voltage that was proportional to the signal strength and we feed that voltage back onto the grids of the IF Amp valve stages, in theory we now can obtain a fairly constant signal level for a wide range of input signal strengths. Too much output, the AGC DC voltage may go up let’s say (some work the other way around) and this will alter the bias of the valves therefore reducing the gain of the IF a amps and if the signal strength drops, the AGC voltage drops and the gain is increased. Now one final point here, if we allow the gain of the IF amps to rapidly change then there is a chance that the whole receiver may go into oscillation so what we do is apply a time constant, in more expensive receivers we can have short, medium and long time constants often used to overcome fading at that particular frequency. So to wrap this up, let’s say then that C18 is faulty, it has a high ESR a then what will happen is that at low audio output with the volume turned down, the AF a output valve draws little current so the HT supply to all of the valves (AF, IF, MIXER, LOCAL OSCILLATOR and RF AMP). When we turn the volume up, the AF output valve draws more current and because C18 is faulty, the HT a supply will drop. What else will be effected? Well the IF amp will have a lower supply voltage and what will happen to the output of the IF amp with a lower HT? It will produce a smaller signal. What is the AGC going to think? Let’s drive the IF Amp harder, despite having a lower HT a it can still crank the output up. It gets to a point were the HT rail is pulled right down and the IF output can’t go any higher despite the AGC screaming give me more drive, at this point the signal going into the AF output stage will cut off with a thump, no AF output, oh look, low current drain by the AF output therefore C18 despite being leaky will gradually start to charge up again, the HT supply is restored, signal comes back with a thump and then the current drawn by the AF stage starts to pull the HT back down again because C18 cant store enough juice because of the ESR and the cycle repeats and the frequency of the beat is determined by how poorly C18 is and the time constant of the AGC. Sorry I turned that into a flipping lesson… hope it didn’t confuse you 😂😂😂😂😂😂

Thanks Mike, you're a legend 😃

Yeah, I've seen some of his videos, he could turn it into a death ray lol.

@@exeterslab7781haha yeah… saying that he’s a very clever and funny guy but he knows his stuff … imagine BANG ‼️ OH F***K ‼️ 😂😂😂

That's one of my greatest fears Buff, they give me the creeps big time lol

Thanks for watching JE :)

lol

Oh Ken I love Rocky as well. Well I'm turning 60 soon so I am getting on lol. I looked at the circuit board but to be honest, It was too much for me, as I have no idea how these things work. I'm going to use the case to house a signal tracer, which is my next project :)

Hi Stuart, I've never had an issue with those switches but I can look into it for you. Hopefully, we can suss it out

​@@exeterslab7781 Hi Frank. Sorry for misleading you. It now works. It also revolves at the correct speed. I guess lubrication did the trick! However, as I have no sound, and having a clue about tracing faults, I am considering replacing the amp with one from Jaycar.Any chance you might make a video or diagram for this? Cheers mate.

@@stuartvaughan-williams7257 Hey Stuart, no probs at all champ, I'm glad it's working correctly. The Amp is another story lol. Before changing it, you can check if it's the cartridge or speaker which are faulty. I'd check the speaker first by using a 1.5v battery; pos and neg of the battery across the speaker terminals. If it crackles the speaker is good. That leaves the cartridge. Trace the wires coming from the cartridge to a terminal strip on the underside of the turntable. There maybe four wires or just two. if it's two wires one will be the signal from the cartridge the other will be its earth wire which is easy to pick as you can see it going to the chassis. Four wires just means stereo, 2 wires for signal and 2 wires for earth. With the unit powered on and the vol turned up, touch one of the cartridge signal wires with one finger, that will short it and you should hear a buzz of some sort from the speaker. If you do, the the amp is working and the cartridge is dead. If you don't hear anything, the amp is likely shot. I'm not sure of how much experience you have, so please excuse me if you already know this stuff. Please make sure you don't touch the bare metal of the chassis or turntable with your other hand when doing this or you may get a very very nasty jolt from the unit. It may even kill. If the cartridge is dead those cheap chinese cartridges I use at about $2 each will do the trick. From memory, the monaco amp uses two AC128 transistors for the audio output. These may be dead, but I've seen them for sale on Ebay. I have the schematic should you need it. The unit also has two other transistors an AC125 and OC44 but I don't know what they do. I think I've seen them on ebay as well. The jaycar option is also a good idea, which we can discuss if you go down that path. I hope this helps a bit and feel free to email me at [email protected] we can send pics etc and makes the process easier. Happy to help as much as I can. Cheers..........Frank

@@exeterslab7781 Thanks Frank. I will let you know how I get on.

You are a legend. One one thing I thought it would not be, it was. The speaker is faulty. No to find one that will fit. Stay tuned.

Thanks Champ. Yep, Am valve radios and radiograms are the best. They remind me of when I was a kid listening to a DJ playing all the hits and best of all, it was lo-fi lol

Thanks so much Baz :)

ps: Yes, the more schematics we share the easier it gets for everyone. Helping people is the best reward

Definitely luck at times Chris, Thanks for watching :)

Larry, when I first saw it I thought no way, then after having a think I thought why not, I cant make it any worse lol. In the end it wasn't that hard esp with a bit of luck thrown in.

Thanks Terry, much appreciated :)

Thanks again Mike :) Three years ago I would not have had a clue of what to do lol

Thanks JE, much appreciated :)

A compliment from you is a joy to read Steve and boosts my confidence, thanks so much 😃😃😃

Howdy Tex, three triple word scores for you lol

Thanks Mike, Cowboy music is tops lol

Thanks so much Baz :)

I think nostalgia has a bit to do with it Larry in bringing back memories of listening to granddads or aunties' radio when you were a kid. Some people have definitely looked after their old radios while some just leave them in the shed for decades. I'll check out your video too. hope all is well with you :)

The poms had a bit of flair back in the day Mike lol

Thanks :)

I wonder where shits and giggle came from Ken lol? Yeah, it is a good little radio and definitely a keeper. I wouldn't mind another one in a different colour

It does work well. I've been listening to it all morning, so far no glitches

That is strange. Is YT getting cheap on the bandwidth?

Hi, trying to remember but I think I just had the chassis only. If there's no grub screws holding the knobs on then they just pull off. Likely they're stuck fast to the shafts. One trick is to wrap twine/cord several turns around the base of the knob and start pulling. They can be difficult at times. I've also used a plastic lever designed for car trim removal. Hope this helps, and you have a great name for a song BTW :) www.amazon.com.au/Wetado-Upholstery-Fastener-Terminal-Blue-8PCS/dp/B08ZHZMMHR?th=1

Thanks for watching Mike :)

Thanks Baz. Aristone were cheap and nasty as you can tell lol. Radio Museum says they were mainly sold by Myers but the company also opened a showroom in Elizabeth St. here in Melb. Yeah, those red loctal valves were common in Aristones and Stromberg also used them occasionally

Thanks Larry, always a bonus when the easy ones come around :)

I can't think of the owner's name ATM Steve, but he was renowned for cheap sets. He would buy excess cases from the manufacturers and fit his cheapo chassis in them. I don't see those loctals very often, but they were also used in a particular stomberg mantel as I recall

Thanks Robert. I've noticed the thickness of some leads are greater than other and yeah, they are hard to bend

Thank you Larry

My pleasure Mike

Happy to help out as much as I can :)

lol, how true Terry

spot on as usual Steve :)

I would never scrape the carbon off a pot.

@@kenf8563 Thanks Ken, I hope it helps some people. I agree on NOT scraping the carbon