Update?

So essentially with a feeler gauge you would want a clearance of just about .25mm between camlobe and bucket for intake side?

hi, i’m doing my son’s second gear plus synchros and 3/4 fork, brilliant video by the way. can i measure the preload without taking the shim out, as i can’t seem too get the outer bearing race out

Thank you so much for taking time to explain yourself in this video, I am currently in the middle of doing this project on my 18 RS. I do have one question…Where did you get the tool to pull the outer bearing race out of the bell housing?

What was the total cost of this project?

It is the same process to clean any possible residue on the piston if my car has push-button ignition?, I am a little afraid at that point, I would not want to ruin any valve.

When my car ignition is off, i can shift like normal but once i start the car, i can't do that anymore. Does that mean that my clutch master cylinder is dead?

i didn’t disconnect half this shit and still was easy

Would this be the same to replace the synchros on a automatic?

You have absolutely saved my life with this video. Paid a shop to do the syncro upgrade and they botched it pretty hard. Where did you get the workshop manual 37:09? There is nothing in the ford workshop manual for the focus other than "Replace Transmission", and I've had no luck finding anything other than in your video.

Excellent video, thanks! I was able to replace the assembly on my 2013 ST without removing any parts of the dash, airbag, etc. It was a tight fit, but it eventually worked out!

Good job, im finishing up my stroker build currently

Just did mine today man. Thanks for the tips. I was able to do it without taking out the steer or anything on the dash. Video helped a lot

Благодаря этому видео, я понял как считать натяг подшипников. Летом тоже буду ставить блокировку.

WOW, what a pro.

Классное видео! Профессиональная работа!

Great video, thumbs up ❤. Here is the one question. What is the tool you used that has pi pi pi sound?

Where do you buy the seals from?

I’m on my 3rd gearbox build and this video is still my go to! Appreciate your hard work brother it doesn’t go unnoticed 🫡

is it better to install the oil catch to that oil vent tube?

Hey man I’m experiencing the exact same thing. Only on acceleration, replaced both axles and rmm and just gets louder. It now seems to be alternating from driver to passenger side occasionally. Did you ever get the noise from other side? Not typical sound of a wheel bearing that’s why I’m wondering

Holly really. That's wats. Wrong with mine. Thanks for the perfect reference

6

do not have to take off wheel or unassemble wheel well can easily slip on socket fly wheel

coming up on 100K on a focus I bought a couple months ago, so not looking foward to this, but I wouldnt be surprised if I have simlar problem... oi.

Did you only use rags to get all the stuff out? Did you vacuum it out at all? Just wanna make sure none of the carbon chunks get into the combustion chamber or get caught in the valve seating area

I cannot get that fucking last plug at the end 😮‍💨😮‍💨

This was by far the best video I found for replacing the synchros in this transmission. I realized I needed to redo what I had done. I'm glad I watched before I reassembled my transmission.

Got to pull my trans to rebuild it. Where did you find all the parts to rebuild yours? Any info would be greatly appreciated.

hey i am looking for some shims. youdont want to sell one do you? lend me the measuring shim? ford tells me its backordered until julys end....crazy times

Hello, I just have two quick questions, is the input shaft bolt also 75ft-lbs? i'm replacing the input shaft bearing also. Also is there a torque spec for the case bolts and the shifter base, or do you just tighten them using your best judgement?

This video helps so much. I'm just looking for the name of the bearing you pulled off. The Ford dealer doesn't seem to know what I'm talking about.

Is the part number for the updated one with the metal plunger a different part number than the oem one with a plastic one? I’m trying to find one for my 17 ST, but I’ve seen both variations from different sellers and they share the same part number

You Do Not need to disconnect the steering Shaft

That didn't need to be done. Not enough build up to cause a difference.

WOW. what happens with all that grease when the wheels starts spinning? goes everywhere including the disc brake surface. STUPID STUPID AND DANGEROUS.

Excellent presentation!! Very thorough and precise. Thank you!

What’s the part number

I really thank you very much for this amount of information

more Focus ST videos please 😊

If y'all have a 2013 Focus, there will be a very small elongated "o-ring" at the end of the steel line. You will need to pull it our of your old clutch pedal assembly. If you do not you'll end up with brake fluid in your engine bay, ask me how I know.

Help please asap; I’m currently almost done with the synchros I have the 1-4 done but for 5-6 when I get the slider on, it gets stuck in 5th if I put the slider on then the ball bearings, if I put the ball bearings in first then the slider it’s get stuck in 6th. Any suggestions? Thank you in advance

Man, this was excellent! Great to see up in and behind stuff with your camera angles and lighting. I, too, sheared off my coolant overflow line....Those damn things are so delicate and the plastic is so brittle after 10 years of hot engine bay aging....

Do you have a part # for the shims or where should I get them

I guess the 2018 Focus ST is different. I just had to replace my clutch master and I was able to get the pedal out without removing any parts of the dash, or the steering shaft. It was not fun lol, but I was able to do it.

Regarding the bearing race with the oil funnel. Where on the race do you place the pilot bearing remover with the funnel still on? Is there a lip or something for the remover to grab on to?

Great video, however, other than disconnecting the airbag You don't have to remove it. Mind you with a 3-in ratchet and extension, You can get the 13s off that go into the firewall to secure the clutch pedal assembly. But I think maybe the book asks to take the air bag out. So you have a clear shot at the 7:00 nut. But it's not necessary. It's actually a waste of time.

not sure if you're still around to see this but... how did you get to the airbag bolt to the right. The left one was fairly straightforward albeit a pain in the ass, but there seems to be a piece of metal directly in the way of the blind one. Any advice?

Is this also for the ford fusion? 2.5 engine? I'm having cylinder 123 misfire

I did my first ever clutch and pressure plate install on '15 FoST. Everything went back in, Putting in the transmission was a bitch and a half - especially doing this on jack stands. I fucked up the bleeding procedure. Workshop manual states that you should PUMP OIL IN through the bleeder valve. I put a vacuum on it, and blew a seal on slave cylinder. Said fuck it and gave the car to AMMCO. They did great job, $1000 bucks to replace a 3 dollar seal inside a tranny. But car runs like a champ. Im a little jelly about your LSD. Any update on lightweight flywheel. I heard people who installed it said they regret it, because taking off takes WAY more gas. A lot of them said they would keep the dual flywheel.