You can replace the field coil with a power resistor and that would free up the power supply from the output stage. Than, replace the output transformer for one that has a primary that will work for the load resistance of the output tube (for this 6F6 tube it would be 7k ohms O.T. primary impedance), and a secondary that will work for a 4, 8 or16 ohm speaker of your choice. ;) Note: You can find the load resistance for any output tube in a tube specs sheet. It's easy to get them online.

Just work up to it! Just because a person can change a tire does not mean they are ready to rebuild a motor! 😂

Your thinking low voltage / high current: solid state. Tube devices are high voltage / low current. That is a major mind jump! So as a tube device, what we have is this circuit in question (C17 Field Coil C19), which is a pi filter, designed to remove the low millivolt 60/120Hz AC ripple off the high DC (B+) line. Keep in mind that the B+ is up around 300-375V DC! The percentage AC voltage ripple, before the the pi filter, is 5V DC (the filament/heater voltage of the rectifier tube). That is 5vac/300+vdc = 1.67% pre-pi filter. Another way to look at it is: a B+ voltage of 300V DC would be a pulsation DC voltage of 300V +/- 7.07V = 292.93VDC to 307.07VDC. The +/- 7.07V is the peek to peek voltage of 5VDC (5 * 2.828 = 14.14v p-p = sign wave of 7.07p+ to 7.07p-). That is quite insignificant at 300VDC right? And that is BEFORE the pi filter. After the filter, the AC ripple voltage would be a much lower percentage. Perhaps as low as 0.001%. Which at 300V AC is definitely insignificant! Next we have C7 going to ground which the AV ripple would see as a "water slide to ground", while the DC would see an insurmountable wall of concrete! Lastly, the Output Transformer is driven by the amplified audio signal, superimposed on that 300V DC. As for the reflected audio back to the high voltage power supply, who cares? It would be swallowed up and grounded, through the center tap of high voltage winding of the transformer. Again, all these things would be serious issues in a low voltage, solid sate device. And much worst in an analog to digital IC circuit.

@@ElectroRestore so that Hum will be bearly or not hearable and the feed back audio wouldn't be of any significance to cause echo or refraction effect.

@@Alessio-v3o Exactly! Each stage is pretty much isolated from the previous stage by the one-way signal path. On the RF side, you have high frequency filtering through the IF cans (455KHz for AM and 10.7MHz for FM). So feedback there not likely. If you have wires that are not dressed properly in their layout in the chassis. In such a case, it might be possible to get feedback in the oscillator circuit, which has high sensitivity. However, most of it would be stepped on pretty good by the incoming radio station and IF filtering. You would be more likely to get 60/120 Hz hum interference from the AC tube heater wires, if they ran over sensitive areas, than reflected audio signals. Very good questions! Thanks for asking them!

Thank you! I appreciate the positive feedback! Perhaps I will make a video on an AA5 using the smartphone function generator on the RF section to do an alignment.

I could not agree more! I have a TinySA transceiver, a small battery-powered AM, variable frequency transmitter, that I can modulate with my phone. And an even smaller, not much larger than a 9-volt battery, FM transmitter, which works on a good number of preset, fixed frequencies across the band. However, Ireally enjoy the function generator. Perhaps I will make a demo video, showing it in action for diagnosis and AM/FM alignments.

Thank you sir! :)

Yep! Electricity never shows mercy! That sounds like an awesome tee shirt! :)

No, there is no pump. It is called a pour over coffee maker. Because you pour a pot of cold water in the top (when it is already full)and a pot of hot coffee comes out the spout.

​@@ElectroRestore hola tu no tienes algun nuemero de telefono de wassap para que me puedas alludar

El problema de la cafetera es que ella calineta bien pero no echa el agua solo se pone bien caliente..y gracias por estarme alludando

LLENE EL TANQUE Y SE PONE CALINTE PERO NO ECHA EL AGUA SOLO LA CALIENTA

@@josecaceres6022 You have to over fill it: 1. Fill tank. 2. let water get hot. 3. pour in more water and it comes out.

I really don't know. I just leave it on my USB charger when it is not in use. It still works great and can hold a charge for days when I forget to reconnect it. ;)

Yes, I later was able to switch through the hi / low frequency menu. It apparently does .1 to 10 MHz (almost) on low, and up to 60 MHz on high. On high setting, I can still get down to a solid 455KHz for most AM IF tuning and up to the 10.7 I need for FM IF. It will also do the AM/SW bands on antique radios for RF tuning testing and dial setting. But for $20, it is a pretty stable device. To be honest, when I bought this one a few years back, I did not expect it to be anywhere near this accurate. I will be upgrading to the newer one though because it uses more digits.

It is most likely a bad capacitor. Replace it and it should be fine. You might want to use one about .25 uF less than the old one with a higher voltage rating.

It can be caused by tin whiskers shorting the plates in the tuning condenser. I have actually had to use a strong magnifier glass to find and remove them. In regular variable capacitors, like trimmer caps, however, that does not happen. Because the mica chip is larger than the plates and no whiskers can cut through the mica to shorth them out. Glad you liked the video! Thanks for the comment!

There the center is half way! That was my point.

@@ElectroRestore No, the centre is half way down the length of the coil but the centre position is max inductance, with the slug in the centre you have max ferrite between the coils, with the slug at the top or bottom you have min so if you want a position of being able to increase or decrease frequency you need to be between the two.

@@stoptheirlies You are correct. The only way to increase or decrease the inductance, is to be either 25% down from the top, or 25% up from the bottom. That would be the center of the range rather than the center of the coil. I am use to tunable capacitors in antique radios and so it really would not matter if you was at max impedance because you tune with the cap values. For slug values (without SMD) I would just adjust for resonance with the slug and not worry about start or stop position.

Thank you!

@franzliszt3195, Yes they are the DC resistance of the coil wires. They are low because to DC, the coils are like just any other wires, only much longer. So they have some resistance. The IF transformer makers included them to their customers, because the anticipated failure would be an open or a short in the coils themselves. Measuring the resistance (DC ohms) should be in that ballpark. They did not supply the capacitance in most cases because they did not foresee any real chance of failure there. Great question! Thanks for asking! I will be uploading another video in this series soon; hopefully in a day or two!

@@ElectroRestore thank you for the response. It is seldom that anyone makes what may be called a ‘definitive’ version on a subject. Most only go very a partial answer.

Yes I loved Shango's video! I had a lot of experience with SMD. However, I never actually seen it arcing like that one was! You are correct, I should have said B- rather than ground. It is held above ground by that resistor on the secondary side. I was more trying to contrast the potential differences between secondary and primary. Dan's video documented just how much potential difference could exist in SDM to actually jump across such a gap. Thanks for your kind words Steven! I appreciate the support you have shown my channel; now and in my earlier days!

I saw that too. I really like the extra detail from ElectroRestor.

Yes, it is a fun one for sure! You are correct about the phonograph that was installed with it. It is the S-11680 model 78 player. I already rebuilt the motor and still working on recapping the main radio chassis. I love a challenge and this unit has been that! Thanks for the comment Steven! - Paul

That depends on many factors (current draw, phase angle, capacitor/coil values, age, lubrication, bushing/bearing condition, stator condition and hours of usage). Generally, it can range from 600 RPM or so on low to 2K RPM on high. What you need to be concerned with is current draw being less than or equal to the motor’s stated current. And the housing should not get hot to the touch after running.

As long as the inductor can take the high voltage, yes! But I do have a video showing how I rewind a field coil. It really is not that hard. Actually, you can repair them if they are not too bad by replacing bad spots. If just the speaker is bad, you can put the field coil in the cabinet (if the original one is good). Assuming there is room of course. Then install a permanent magnet speaker.

Sure! Visit our website for more info and submit a request via the contact form. It updates our database. website: ElectroRestore.com

Can you be more specific?

@@ElectroRestore Thank you for responding I opened it up left open for 24 hours and now it works thanks again and great video!

You could try oil and heat. Try to get oil to run down behind the blade support, where it slides over the armature. Let it sit a while with gravity pulling it in the gap, possibly. Then add more oil all around the shaft, and apply heat to the blade support. Keep moving the heat around the joint to make it swell so the oil can seep in. Lastly, do all the above on the set screw hole also. Never apply too much heat. Just get it hot so it expands. Then try and take the screw out again. If no luck, you have no choice: drill it out and re-tap the hole for another (larger screw).

I really enjoyed hearing of your upbringing with electronics,. It brought back memories of my childhood being taught by my dad, who had a TV radio repair shop. I wish intensely, that more young folks were interested in learning to repair these devices! It is sad that not many have your zeal for learning it! The issues is not that they shouldn't do it till they learn how. It is the dangers of learning on a transformer set that sources out upwards of 600-700 volts AC ,and 200-300 volts DC to the plates of the tubes! One wrong touch, in the wrong way, and it's an all expense paid trip to harp land! Also, these devices are getting rarer to find that are not botch by bad service work. What I suggested was that folks learn on All American Five (AA5 and AA6) radios, which do not have high voltages, are cheaper and more plentiful, and easier to rework back to specs if a restore is badly done. You can stirp them to the chassis if needed, and try again, and learn much doing so! Safety first, skills second, expensive and rare device should be last. You have to learn to crawl, before you learn to walk, right?

​​@@ElectroRestoreI'm 25 now I've gotten a few sets going so far noticed I said going my first was a AC/DC 5 tube zenith my brother got for it was already " cheaply repaired" from the eBay seller a cheap Taiwan no name filter cap. With the ground end crimped to the aluminum can of the filter cap, upon receiving the radio and opening it uo the ground had broken rigth at the crimp, the one mica that would of be in circut of the oscillator to the mixer was changed or replaced with a capacitor tolerance 20% not the 5 % that it should be. The radio has been used for some parts as it was in great shape externally. Wound up building a two tube regenerative receiver based off mike1 I think that's the correct portion of his user name on KZbin I'll edit it correctly. Any how his design was intened for lower b+ im essentially using his circut to but at a higher b+ the oscillator coil has had some turns removed, now I think I'm gonna redone the resistors. Really fell in love with this radios since then. Got me a vtvm,an eico which was in pretty good shape extrenaly electrically the whole voltage divider was 10% or more out of tolerance so got. Got really good 1% resistors from mouser

@@Anthonytheredneck It sounds like you have quite an aptitude for vintage electronics! Thanks for the comment! It blesses my heart to hear that younger adults are still showing an interest in tube radios and the like! I have tried to find an apprentice around my area, with a basic skill aptitude but with little luck. It may just be my area idk. If you start a KZbin channel, be sure to comment and let me know and I will subscribe. :)

@@ElectroRestore I've thought about restarting, lost my old account a whlie ago do to the sercuity set up. But I think it would be wise as my work ethic is handled a bit more seriously, I work on soild state too, actually were I statred doing first. Being already mechanically inclined at the time and you tube pretty much just came to be about 3 years after KZbin started. 30 watt iron and scarping old boards for their parts like transistors and the wire and so on. Gosh i let the smoke fly doing stuff like that. Much older and it didn't really take long to comprehend how circurts kinda work.

Unknown. At this point start all the way counter-clockwise and go from there.

You can't buy SPDT (OFF ON ON) switches these days. If fact the switch I used here, I bought from Granger. It is a Carlton switch. Stay away from them! I had to buy 3 to get one that worked. You usually have to get a SPTT rotary switch: OFF ON ON ON and tie the last two together (OFF ON ON ON) or cut the last wire away (OFF ON ON OFF),

You should also change the cutoff switch. If the water gets too hot, it will boil over and spew out wherever it can. Also, the silicon gaskets on the tank lid should be replaced. One was replaced with your thermostat most likely. Check the other too though. When they get hot, they expand and loose their tight seal. Boiling water will destroy their integrity.

Hey, myn leaks from the tank top when I dump water in it. I'm guessing I need to change this seal? Also my machine sits in my cold barn. Anything I should do in winter time? Will it break if it's full of water? Thank you

Change the tank lit gasket and it should be fine. If it freezes full of water it can split the tank. However, it is more likely to pop the gasket and bend the lid.@@tonyb3676

Very interesting. I did not know Westinghouse sold the patent on this fan. Glad for you that they did! Sounds like you got to enjoy this awesome fan for many years. Thank you for sharing this history with us! It is always fun to learn what happens to these things when they are no longer available in their original place of origin.

@@ElectroRestore es una reliquia, y lo sigo usando, acá estamos en verano, de hecho hace un día, compre uno de piso industrial de la misma marca de aca (Siam) pero de una patente también comprada a Westinghouse, genera tornados ese

Thank you sir! :)