Cute model :)

Can u link stl?

I personally would never recommend elagoo's Neptune 4 Series.

Can you answer which solvent you used for the nylon slurry?

I'm missing the STL / STEP file Link 😢 Or I'm blind today?

Where did you get your pricing from for the Mole? Seems it was promo pricing? Just checked and its $649 (593 EUR). At that price, pay a little more and get the Creality Otter perhaps? What do you think?

i think Joshua is both right and wrong here. right about it improvements no longer being easy, but wrong about it having to be easy for the community to function. communities are absolutely incredible and have done _much_ more difficult things than the next steps in 3d printing require. hell, there are people out there doing diy litography. anything is possible the important factor is the health of the community, not the difficulty of the problem. as long as there's lots of open cooperation the rest will fall into place

29 years old? I need that discount for a 3d printer 😂

"CAD features" oh boy.....

is nobody gonna mention that tall printer in the back

For the screen ,wont a android phone do it, I have seen people use it and its very cheap if you can get an old used phone.

In fact, as a practitioner in the luxury goods industry, you need to go through a lot to find out which ones are fake, luxrul which is why people buy fakes because it is difficult to distinguish

I've had good success making tpu bags using vase mode printing. Even used a leather texture once to create a book cover.

Thanks for the review, I just ordered the non pro and looking forward to trying some printing.

Can u share me options video of models 300x300 or better in closed case print models,im range price creality k1 to x1 carbon bambu.

ITS fucking plastic NOT LEATHER

Nice tests :-) - But such a shame you use plastic spools instead of cardboard and masterspools!!!

I have been using my Bambu Lab AMS to print TPU after making the modifications suggested by Noozle3D. The video was 7 months ago. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pl68dqtmdsafpcUsi=oihwyuqT44suqmLy

Nice video and thank you for making videos like these. It is rare that a shop actually knows and understands the interests and needs of their customers. Just that you have so many glues also available. Looking forward to more general maker stuff and CNC related accessories. Oh and I agree you need a tool changer :)

first

Nice work. Any chance you'd release the STL/step files for non-commercial use?

Having 3 scanners and not comparing the result on one screen is a fail. Useless review.

The “layer stacking” seems a bit rough on those printed parts. It doesn’t look like z banding, so I don’t know what the term is. Anyone know what it’s called and the major causes?

Nice job. You have more patience than i do.

Would be useful if I knew where to find the carriages and idlers for a Corey

Lmbo, that tsoilet SuperVinlin

And the point of this was??

What an annoying sound

Do you know what Gcode flavor it uses

Man the dust on those belts, they look like they stayed dorment at least for a year.

Is the headcrab model available to download anywhere?

Why no PLA? PLA tough has good impact resistance it seems

PLA is arguably as strong to use for these parts as opposed to CF-PETG or ABS however its temperature handling properties let it down.

My kobra 2 pro the nozzle just sticks to the print and when the it moves rhe does to and it just crates a big block of filament im using normal tpa and i did do all the calibrations

Why oh why oh why do people forget that not everyone has a 3D printer or access to one and do instructional videos involving circular dependencies, here's an idea for the next series "how to make a 3D printer without access to a 3D printer and with only stuff we sell on/in our store" that way you can help people into the custom 3D printer hobby without increasing the cost by the price of a 3D printer and the time to get it working right and you find out if there's anything missing from your product base

if you want to cut cost in almost half ,then buy a used printer ive been thinking about buying 2 older enders and somehow smashing them up to get a voron style printer you can scavenge the aluminum extrusions and the motors and probably the pullies and the bearings , that can offset the cost significantly ... i have a prusha style printer meaning i have rods ,i want to somehow convert it on the cheap to a voron style printer ..... im going to try to reuse everything , i want to substitute the aluminum extrusions and the rails for rods and lmuu8's and im still figuring out how to do it .... the printer doesn't need to know that its made of rods instead of extrusions !! pray for me plz as im about to ruin my only printer !!!

BTT HDMI5 is my go-to for klipperscreen. It's really handy to be able to reboot the printer, fix wifi, change filament, and so on. The super budget screen option would be an I2C OLED screen (see klipper docs for supported modules) and a rotary encoder, but you'll need to design your own housing.

Instructions unclear, send Help 😅

Hmmm... 🤔

I will get around to do that, after I built the Anet AM8 clone (I got so much scraps to look through, never had Anet A8).

Just might as well use the Ender 3 bed size. There are tons everyone in stock, it's got other compatible alternatives, and it would be a great upcycle or upgrade for anyone. If I foresee this correctly, your build would end up even a better budget friendly than any other Ender conversions in existence... Not bad =). Btw, I like your road map on printer builds. Cheering up!

My first choice would be 180, but 165 would probably also work. I have a v0 and honestly I have a lot of prints where I am like "aww, it just slightly too small" and have to use a bigger printer. I might build the micron one day to get a small 180x180 build volume. The appeal of the micron to me is it fits in about the same footprint as the v0. If the tradeoff is "bigger printer footprint" for 180, I think I'd do 165 instead. (and be happy with it). The 180 build volume, and a 3 hour build time would be perfect for print farms, assuming cost being cheaper. As an enthusiast machine I think I'd love a tinkerable printer that size that's easy to put together too. Regardless of if its a 180 or 165 build volume printer. Side note, I immediately subbed after watching just a few seconds of your video, I really love the idea of this project! Edit: Opinion on the screen. I think a screen is a nice to have, but I agree with it not being necassary for a budget DIY printer. My v0 didn't even come with a screen. I added one because I wanted it, and I would probably add my own. For the base price I'd cut it.

Never knew you had a yt channel haha, iv had stuff from you quite a bit, subbed 😊

180mm is a good size for a mini. Just ask Joe.