I think you’d have to contact NLR directly, it’s not a separate item that they send to retailers.

Nah the apto is like the pagani, it's another level up with no pretence of going racing. Also when i did this review the v3 didn't exist, and the existing apto was kinda very flexy.

@@GameCubitsso the apto is better? Also which is your top 3 ranked 1-3

The bowkvr signature is 75USD, the provolver is 410USD with the front grip, and that's before shipping charges. They're in completely different ballparks in terms of cost and use cases.

Mine devloped some splits in it after it fell off the top of my chair where it lives. It fell with a 10k powerbank attached to the back of it. It still worked fine, but i replaced it before those cracks fully propagated.

Just the sequential mode on the ds8x, it's nice and quiet.

You need to maintain visual contact between the cameras and the controller ring, so cheek might not be far enough away to be seen properly. I use the tip of my chin which works, but you can also stick your thumb back to give a bit more distance.

My brain apparently takes many many hours to warm up, i rarely race during the day and when i do this happens!

There isn't a limit to how long i can race, motion sickness does go away completely with time and game settings that suit you. I play competitive fps games like quake 3 in vr so i have vr legs like tree trunks, but if i turn off horizon lock in a rally game I'm toast. I'd start out with non-racing games until you've broken a few inner-ear neural links then ease into racing. Car movement without feeling it in your head is difficult to raw dog. But still totally worth it, vr racing is the best.

Yes, every F-GT manufactured in the last three or so years will have it in included the box.

@@GameCubits thank you

I have it pushed all the way forwards on the middle slot and the wheel quite low because i like the rally-style position. But if you can’t move your seat further back and pull the pedals in to compensate, then you’d have to move the wheel mounts to the front slot section where the pedals connect. I’ve got enough room on that slot to do it and it would add a good few inches, but i also now have my pedals set up without the stiffening mounts as i use threaded rods in the top of the plate down to the cross-bar that runs underneath.

I have this cockpit and this issue, I moved the pedals all the way forward without the pedal strengthening kit and was able to mount the front 2 bolts of the legs on the first slot where the pedals go while also occupying the 2nd slot for the rear 2 holes. it works great but i'm now unable to use the TV mount kit.

I assigned it in the retroarch menu. I did it for each controller type so when i had the right controller plugged into the wiimote it would automatically be mapped correctly for the corresponding console. This isn't an emuvr specific thing, i just followed a basic retroarch tutorial.

@@GameCubits thank you very much! I think that may point me in the proper direction

@@GameCubits do I need to have a dolphin bar for this to work?

@@jordanmeyer5835 dolphin bar is best, but i lost mine in a cupboard somewhere years ago so now I'm just using the onboard Bluetooth of my motherboard.

@@GameCubits hmm, how curious. I've connected my remote, it shows paired, but I does not seem to work at all on my pc. Thought maybe I needed the bar. I'll keep messing with it. Thanks!

This game never was on PS4, and never will be on PS5. Maybe you're thinking of the non-vr games Onward is based upon?

Usually the cockpit camera angle shows a lot more roof so i can put the webcam there, but the delta is a bit different. So I'll move the camera down to the left foot the next part and see how it goes. ;)

Yes, as long as they're compatible.

It was originally listed at $400 (AUD), then got a $50 discount just before they started shipping. That discount is still applied, so i guess it's just a $350 product now, but it was hard to tell at the time. I was retroactively refunded that $50 too. Handbrake is still going strong btw, rock solid.

It's best to ask this in the rallysimfans discord, bit hard to work out what needs to be set from this comments section. But how i have the vr set up is the default behavior for the vr plugin, menus are 2d but projected on a void, the way it's captured for streaming looks different to hire it is in the headset too. Jump on the discord and i can be more thorough.

Can be played in desktop mode. VR not required but VR is easier to setup your room with.

Enthusia was every bit as advanced under the hood as Richard burns rally was, the two games were released months apart. It's still a really good drive, and it runs well at 4k emulated on the pc. It does suffer from a low physics update rate which makes the cars feel a bit too rubbery, but it's amazing how detailed the simulation is down to correctly handled torque converter automatics!

@@GameCubits Eh, I wouldn't be emulating it at 4k, I think I'll play it on a PS2 on a CRT the way it was intended. I've got both, so why not? Costs a fraction as much as a 4k panel and looks better anyway. You don't notice that the maps are chunky af when you're on a CRT lol

Oh i still have the ps2, a crt monitor, and a wheelstand with a modded g25 on it to play enthusia "the right way", but it does hold up remarkably well at higher res and via the emulator i can run it on my big sim rig. I've got a video up of a 180sx at tsukuba, and i think it looks pretty great. Plus 4k monitors are way cheaper than good crt's these days. I've clung to a trinitron for 20 years now, it's still the best way to play all my favourite lightgun games.

@@GameCubits Very glad to hear that, but gotta be crafty about buying CRTs. Don't buy CRTs online, they're inflated. All of my CRTs were bought through classified ads, or found at tips. I've combined spent max $150 AUD for four CRTs of exceptionally high quality, which is way better than 500-600 for a single cheap and not very good 4k panel, or 1000-1200 for a single OLED panel. I have two Trinitrons (one PC monitor and one TV) and two shadow mask tubes (same deal) and genuinely the shadow mask tubes often look better than the trinitrons for some applications. It's not really about the quality of the tube, but rather what games expect which tubes. All you get with more expensive tubes is higher dot pitch, which often isn't want you want for games as it brings out details that look iffy. I still find that, even with OLED panels, the colours are off compared to even the cheapest, bucket CRT. On top of that, lighting and transparencies in older games always looks horrid on any LCD. If you play San Andreas on a CRT at night and look at car headlights, they cast beams like real headlights. On an LCD, it just looks like a solid object. It's definitely not gonna seem worthwhile if you're paying ridiculous money for them. But that's exactly the thing: be frugal, buy them cheap or find them free. Obv I don't need to convince you bc you already have one, but I tell everyone the same thing when I find out they're getting into retro games