This channel is interesting. I just subscribed it. Thank you. 👍

5-10hp is not worth the longevity and health of my trucks engine. I'll stick with the best ability to filter well.

My last car was a 1995 Sidekick, which I drove for 2 decades. The air filter, like some Suzuki parts are more expensive , about $40 CDN. So I resisted changing it. I learned from desert people to just take out the filter and blast it with compressed air and then check it with a trouble lamp., I do it every year. Half way through about a decade, it had well over 200,000 km on it, I gave in and bought a new filter. Now , with my Toyotas, I added some A/C filter wool just before the filter as rough first stage, and I intend the OEM filter to last for life. I do not drive in dusty areas or desert much. I do the same to the cabin air filter. If you are foolish (or rich) enough at the dealer to authorize cabin filter service, they will ding you for $60, 70 extra. In the old days , well before year 2000, there was no such thing as cabin filters, and I have not heard of anyone who died breathing unfiltered air. In the military maybe at war when they need their NBC filter (Nuke , bio and Chemical) To get more bucks, dealers are also paying more attention to the age of tires, brake fluid, trans fluids etc. The only one left out of the money tree were the mechanics.

I’ve used Fram ultra filters on my Camry for 3 years after Mobil 1 went to paper from a synthetic filter back in 2021. (The Camry filter is not inside a housing so you can see the material being used). I just bought a fram ultra filter for an oil change last week and they now have downgraded to a paper material in their ultra series. So looks like I’ll be switching to Purolator Voss series!

The oiled filters have to be oiled in order for them to work. It's the oil that traps the dirt.

Amsoil is garbage oil The best oil, fuel and diesel products are made by Conklin.

Mann/Hummel own both Purolator and Wix

Just bought one of these k&n filters for my Nissan and the air box will not clip shut cus the rubber way to thick. Also it dont fit in yhe air box correctly. Dont waist your money on them. They are junk

I ran my 98 wrangler with no air filter for 12 years before I sold it. never had an issue and I drove it often on gravel roads

Oil gauze filters are shit at initial filtration. They depend on contamination to improve filtration. So it’s a curve of initial high flow performance/poor filtration, to poor flow performance/high filtration. You can’t have both. On top of that, oil filters have the negative effect of coating sensors with…oil, reducing performance by impeding sensor accuracy. K&N filters were designed and popularized decades ago when carburetors were common, but are poorly suited for modern fuel ejection that use MAP and MAF sensors. Long story short use a dry flow filter of some sort with modern vehicles.

This is what happens when you have Made In USA. They have to pay real wages for labor. not so much in China. So when everyone starts saying they want Made In USA get prepared for it. Buy Made in USA or STFU about Chinese imports. I don't give a crap if the Chinese filters are 2.00. I put my money where my mouth is. Yeah..Ok then they will all be in an uproar when K&N moves to China..

A performance air filter shouldn't meaningfully improve fuel economy. The biggest restriction in your intake is the throttle. If you have less restriction at the filter, you close the throttle more to achieve the desired power setting.

the best filter is the one that protects your engine... hi flow air filters will RUIN your engine... get a factory recommended filter and CHANGE it every SIX months... your car will thank you.

WIX > all of the ones tested

The thicker the air filter the more air restriction, starving your car for air is not the best idea either.

It worked in the 80es with carburetors, today with maf-sensors I'm not sure the oil is good.

Ain’t nobody changing their car’s air filter every 6 months, let alone washing it. Except for the nut jobs that would pay $60 for a filter in the first place.

So you really think that a performance air filter wont make any more horsepower than a factory air filter on a fully built engine? Their used in motorsports for a reason karen. Learn how to test properly and explain every aspect and scenario thoroughly. Your testing is very far from complete. I see some brown stuff around your mouth......

Would like to see how the PurolatorOne filter compares to the Boss. Prior to the Boss it was their top tier and I would expect it to land near the top of this list.

If fram puts up respectable numbers then it should be better than for use "in a pinch." If you had stated that it was second worse in the 5g dust test then that would be better justification. As someone else pointed out, a summary chart would help the viewer digest all the test info.

The accumulated dirt on the filter aids in the removal of additional particles from the unfiltered air. Should have done a continuous test over a period of time. Not the best in the beginning but will flow better over all. Regular filters will clog. Moral of the story is to leave the performance filter dirty. The results are incredible, best of all worlds. I put a K and N filter on my truck that had 170,000 miles on it and it ran the same performance numbers after another 75,000 miles. Irreversible damage?? Dont think so, real life results TRUMPS ANY testing

Any plans for testing with cone shaped filters? Do pre filters help or hurt?

This channel is way too high on flash and showmanship! It's crap! Bring on Project Farm. Far more useful and way less drama! This is the "Las Vegas Flash Channel".

If the "reusable high performance" air filters were any good, the OEM's would have installed them. They are looking for any improvement in fuel economy! Use paper filters and protect your engine!!

I would like to see a test like this repeated after around 2,000 miles of road use. David Vizard did extensive dyno and flow bench testing years ago on K&N filters and my memory is that he found a brand new paper filter flowed fractionally better, than a K&N cotton one in the same box. But he also found the flow of paper elements diminished rapidly while the K&N flow didn't significantly alter, until it was seriously loaded. It was also noted the the K&N filtration capabilities ramp up swiftly with use. That was decades ago however and here you are comparing different brands of cotton type filters. Be nice to see how they compare to each other, after a period of use.

There’s no replacement for displacement! If you want more power get a different vehicle or more powerful engine components…those filters do more harm than good for 5 to 6 extra hp. Trust me you won’t even notice the difference. Stick with OEM filters

Let’s take a moment of silence for the oil change engine of 18,000 miles

k&n owns specter

Would love to see the S&B and AFE filters tested. S&B have a lot of data available about the filtration capabilities of their filters

I would have to say the lowest particle size range probably doesn't even hurt an engine at all and should get suspended in the oil and flushed out when it is changed

When driving a 130k suv I’ll just stick with OE filters 😂. Plus it’s fast enough as is….

Maybe you should mention the actual flow of oil in an engine. I believe my big block Chrysler oil pump can flow about 5.5 gallons per minute maximum and that's for the high volume pump I believe the standard pump is 4 1/2 gallons per minute . as a person that changes his oil very often in a high-performance situation I don't really care about the filtering capacity I want to make sure the oil flows better in all situations.

I know some people who use KN filter who didn’t spray the oil on. Lol the oil suppose to capture dust well.

stay away from light colors (yellow) over a light background (white) I have good vision and it was hard for me to see

Foreseeable result. I'm impressed by the inclusion of the extra explanation of why the K&N "ran away" with the particulate absorption vs flow test...it was plain for me to see that the K&N lasted longer before becoming "clogged", simply because it passed more particulate through rather than absorbing it. I've run a K&N on the street before in a boosted application. It REALLY performed, and in combination with a couple other intake performance parts, it helped increase the HP by a whopping 15%. I strongly believe the filter was responsible for a 15hp gain by itself (it was part of a cold air induction system). However, I didn't accumulate much mileage with the car in that configuration as I knew it wasn't filtering much. For a track driven performance car, a K&N or even no filter is fine. But for street driven performance cars that don't receive engine rebuilds every 25-50k miles (or 250 engine hours), it's better to just run a normal pleated paper filter and take the hit in performance. Be nice to your car, and it will return the favor with quiet reliability for many years.

Performance air filters do not filter.

Just get the stock filter. The cost vs K&N you'll probably get 5-6 more filters. Besides these "performance filters" have oil on them which may effect your MAF. If you want HP gain get a tune, slightly larger exhaust, or add forced induction (turbo/supercharger). On most my (Audi/VW) 1.8 turbo cars I just add a more free flowing CAT and or a cheap cone filter and it spools up quicker. One car I had (Passat 1.8t wagon) I upgraded to a slightly larger turbo and injectors with this set up and it performed very well.

No issues with my blackhalk. Run it on my Ram now for 4 years .

You serious have the best videos on KZbin for this topic. Thanks to you I use the amsoil oil filter and I’ve always used wix air filter so I’ll keep using. Thank you very much!!

Who replaces their engine air filter by time? we're not running plant equipment just idling all the time, we replace on mileage, when/where the engine air filter is 'operating'.

Did you test the hp without a filter? Most people rarely drive in dirty areas so who cares about the filter lifespan. Less dust it will last longer.

I've had a Spectre air filter in my Ford Focus for years now. They're great for the price compared to a K&N.

Wasn't the old saying K&N had was "the dirtier it gets the better it cleans". Maybe rerun the test after 5000 miles or so and see what the results are.

It all depends on what vehicle you have a certain filter on , where you live, how you drive. What you’re looking for. More flow will only be achieved by letting more go through, even some dust. I’d still rather wash mine out than replace it, over and over. Only test missing here,is their more mileage with different brands?

I wish "Sprint" air filters would get into the car game they are doing good tgings in the motorcycle game these days. Would be good to get their technology tested in the automotive world

K&N destroyed more 4L60E transmissions than most people can imagine. The oil that comes off them, and the dirt that goes right though, contaminates the MAF sensor, resulting in lower calculated load values, and reduced transmissions line pressure. GM published a TSB about it.

I went to get a filter at O'Reilly's and the guy presented me with a Wix filter ..... Told him i didn't want it ..... He said Wix makes filters for everybody including OEMs ..... So i took it, tried it and no problem

fuckingclickbait!.... $41 bucks on amazon no were on that site will you find any of these cheapass chinna air filters for 7 bucks!

I’m just not going to buy anything from china if my brother is making one.

Leave it stock and buy a faster car