@@NicBarr-oc2ib I used 3/8th

@@Artseventy6 thank you just got this older one did 2 passes ans it crapped out. 👍👍👍

@@NicBarr-oc2ib crapped how bad? Engine?

@htconesv897 You're welcome. Thanks for watching.

You're welcome. I hope it works out for you too. Thanks for watching.

Yeah, it worked really well for me, I just left the holes open and didn't see any more condensation issues.

I have a kitchen window that looks like that, and I was wondering how to try to clean that too.

Well, we moved from that house back in late October, but at that time it was still clear and fine. And no, I didn't blow more air in there or fill the holes.

​@Artseventy6 thank you!

I would think so, probably just have to use a straight bit set to the right depth, and come up with something to guide it straight down the edge of the 2x4.

It still looks fine. there are no issues

@@Artseventy6 Thank you! (A video update 😊)

My sliding glass door has like a dried condensation so wonder if this would work? It’s too expensive to buy new sliding doors!

​@katielandis1677 yeah, I don't know. If it's dry already, I imagine it's like a dirty/water spotted window, I don't think blowing air in there would clean that. I wonder if there's a way to purposely cause condensation in there, to moisten it up, then try to blow air in there??

@@Artseventy6 Yes, I’m not sure either, I don’t know how to get in there and scrub it so easily. I may look at habitat for humanity for a new or used door. Thanks for your help!

It looked to me that there was a big enough gap between the glass, that I would be fine as long as I drilled in the center, and use a bit just big enough to get the air nozzle in.

Does the wire look broken? Like it came off of one of the connections? Or is it clean cut, like it is just an extra wire in the harness that is maybe used for a different model timer? I would try cleaning the rest of the connections to see if that fixes your problem.

@@Artseventy6 it is a wire with a connector on the end, just not hooked up to anything. From your video, I believe I can see it hooking up to the side of the timer switch, between the green and yellow wire. I'll just give it a try and see what happens.

Yeah, it's worth a try. Let me know what happens.

Well, it seemed to work just fine for me, I didn't see any scratches, and it polished up quite nicely. Are you a clay bar salesmen?

It still looks ok, the heat does discolor the chimnea, but it's fine, I plan on resealing it soon anyway though.

No, it still looks good.

I hope it works out for you, and thanks for watching.

I just used my air compressor in my garage to blow air in there to dry it out.

You can use a vacuum cleaner to suck instead of blowing. The dryer air will be pulled in through the other hole.

I have the same problem with my patio door. I'll try this method soon. Thank you for the video.

That's great, thanks for watching. 🙂

Yes, I've read that it's recommended to reseal periodically, and I think especially if you don't have a cover for it.

I don't actually know if there is a specific setting. I set mine so it was about 1/4" or so out, and that worked just fine. Also remember that scraper bar has two edges, so when it wears down you can simply rotate it to the new edge.

The point is that I'm showing the process of using the plumbers putty in place of a regular clay bar, I wasn't showing me doing the whole car, THAT would have been pointless.

I live in Michigan, so it certainly gets cold here too, this door is part of my Florida room, which is not heated, basically a three season room with several of these sliding glass doors, so I'm not worried about it being insulated. This is the only one with this problem.

If you have moisture inside the glass it means the seal is no good and more than likely the gas escaped long before the moisture presented.

That's great, I hope it works out for you, and thanks for watching.🙂

I'm not sure of the spacing between the glass, and yes I think it was a 1/4" drill bit. The can of compressed air might be worth a try. And no, I did not reseal the window, and so far I have not seen any more condensation.

So far, no signs of condensation, still looks good.

Yes, the base plate on mine is plastic, so I made a small pilot hole and drove the screws in.

Hi, we've had several fires in it, and other than some discoloration from the heat (which I'm sure is normal and expected) it's been fine. Thanks for watching

Hi, you should be able to pull back on the spring loaded carriage that you used to load the nails, that has a fork like tab on it that is what actually holds the nails in place, once you pull it backwards past the nails, you can push upwards from underneath that fork to disengage it from the nails, then let it slide back forward and the nails will slide out the back. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching.

That's great to hear, and another benefit is that you can keep an eye on the cooling system output stream too. Thanks for watching, glad it helped.

It still looks ok, but there is certainly some discoloration from the heat, which I'm assuming is normal whether it's sealed or not, as it does get quite hot.

@@Artseventy6 thank you )