I did install the Johnson 115hp V4 on the Starcraft for a test run. Weight was fine. Very close in weight to the 1966 Evinrude 60hp V4 that came on the boat. I had thought about adding more bracing to the transom, similar to the angle brace that came on the boat. After seeing newer (1970's & 80's) Starcraft boats running larger outboards with pretty much the same setup I decided against the extra bracing. The newer boats did have the splash-well narrower at the rear which I'm sure stiffened up the transom a little and transferred some of the pressure to the front part of the splash-well. You could always add a couple braces to do the same thing without changing the splash-well design. I did use a transom support plate for the upper two outboard mounting bolts as well as thick, large diameter washers for the two lower mounting bolts. I think the transom support plate is a must for the extra torque the 115 applies to the wood transom. Your '64 Jupiter has a flat bottom doesn't it? Years ago I thought about getting a flat bottom Starcraft just to install twin 25hp outboards on.

4.0L Inline 6 cylinder

Rust-Oleum Professional - High Performance Protective Enamel

I don't think I have them written down anywhere now. Just mark the center line of the floor supports and measure from center out. Then transfer those measurements to the plywood. You can even set a narrow piece of plywood down the center line for the front section and use scrap cardboard that you can easily trim for the edges and tape or staple that to the narrow piece of plywood. Then you can have a traceable template.

The bolt head should be 1/2". As for the exact bolt specs if you are needing replacements, I am unsure without removing one from my Jeep. I don't currently own any cordless Dewalt products but their 1/2" and 3/8" impacts should be just fine for automotive. I currently use a Kobalt 24v 1/2" impact and a Kobalt 24v 3/8" impact. The 3/8" is perfect for most small fasteners like the bolts for that fuel tank skid plate. Only downside to the cordless impact is the large battery often gets in the way and I end up using hand tools or my pneumatic impact. Pneumatic impacts are more compact and you can also find them in compact/stubby models. But if you don't have a compressor the cordless impacts and hand tools are good enough.

@@jeepcollector91 Awesome feedback!!! Thank you so much. I was able to get the back bolts (under the spare tire) off, but the remaining 3 bolts under the body are rusted and stubborn.

@@MyShayShow Soak them in PB-Blaster if you haven't already. If you are having problems with the bolt head being too rusty for the correct size socket to grip, you can hammer on the next size smaller like a 12mm in place of a 1/2". Just use a socket you don't care about as there is a good chance it will be slightly damaged when you are done with the job. If using an impact, try tightening first. Sometimes the bolt will break off but it also may move just enough to unseize and allow it to be loosened. Heating them up would help but being that you are working near fuel it isn't the safest option especially if you have any fuel leaks or have already unhooked fuel lines and filler hose. Using a heat induction tool to heat the bolt would be a safer option. I would still have an extinguisher nearby and a fan blowing under the Jeep from the front to help keep fuel vapors away from the heat induction tool. I've had good luck with a heat induction tool on some really rusty bolts.

@@jeepcollector91 Thank you so much for this! The jeep is located outside, so ventilation is good. I'll try the impact wrench to tighten it and hopefully it will break the seal. I'll let you know how everything goes! Thank you so much for your reply.

I had thought about it but was worried that it wouldn't have enough flow. Probably would have worked just fine. I knew running the hose into the air box would have enough. I eventually rebuilt the carb and installed a rubber plug into the hole I drilled. I do have another air box for it.

That's kool that went back carb and culvert the but still I think there plenty of fuel going in the carb especially with the holes inside the carb don't you think it's a mine pussle

Installation is the easy part. Line the new pitman arm up with the splines and install the nut. Torque to spec. You can apply grease or anti-seize to the splines if you live in an area that uses a lot of road salt or if you drive on the beach. I did not. Drag link end is even easier. Just like installing the tie rod end to the knuckle. Put it thru the hole in the pitman arm, install the nut, torque to spec, and install the cotter pin. I did have to adjust the drag link length to recenter the steering wheel. I was having issues filming that day. Was really just a "look what I did" type of video that only showed the differences between the two pitman arms and the issues I ran into during the install which really wasn't much. Not a "how to" video like the suspension install.

@@jeepcollector91 Thanks for the info!

13" diameter 19 pitch 3 blade stainless

What was your top speed ?

The sway bar disconnects that were included with my kit installed the same as original. They might have changed the design in the past 10 years. I hope not. I'll have to look up what RE currently offers with the kit...

I looked them up. RE changed to a style that changes the axle mounting location to a tab that welds to the axle instead of to the original spring plate stud. The old style are now available from Warrior Products in four different lengths. warriorproducts.com/jeep-yj-front-sway-bar-disconnect-kit-83041.html On the site it doesn't list the actual length so I'm not sure which one would be the same as what RE used to offer.

Thank you for your answers and advice, having a hell of a time trying to figure this out quadretec was no help at all , customer service sucks

Yes. I retained the original shackles.

Thanks so much

No problem with the back?

@@rickyhino2367 None with mine. Unless RE changed something with the springs since then.

I'm having a hell of a time with my shackles, bottom bracket will no hook up correctly, axle hangers are going in crooked, do I need to loosen the other side to roll them

Just the direct replacement so I would assume not a high flow.

Mercury Spitfire 13.4" 15-pitch 4 blade. prop. Part number: 48-8M8026580