The boss says screw it

Ill donit either way, depends... Id 'prefer pigtails but its more time consuming. Contract work vs T and M

What``s with the red wirenut on the ground wires?

Please for tell me you didn’t backstab that outlet

Love wiha handles 👌

He said gfci...what a rookie

RICKY DON'T TOUCH THAT! RICKY!!

My Guess is The Black and Neutral White Is The Same Wire or Or Runner Yet It Was Cut I Would Have Removed 1/2 Inch Of Insulation Not Cut The Wire and Wrapped or Loop it Around The Screw Post Tightened Down So The Black and Neutral Continue In This Case Yes I Would Pig 🐖 Tail Too One Black and One White To The Receptacle It Makes For a More Professional Job Outstanding This is Actually a Good Video Thank You 🙏

A lot of contractors use the slots

Put a pigtail is it prefer preferred method but it would really depend on where that outlet lies in the circuit if it’s at the end towards the end, you’ll probably be fine if it’s very beginning and possibly an air conditioner hooked up to the other end, not a good idea to go through the little metal tab on the outlet

forget the pigtails, what are those 3 inch long strips?and do you always shorted the wires that much when you change an outlet?

Is it listed?

I'm not an electrician, but those receptacles already have the connecting bar that would essentially maintain continuity if the interior workings of the receptacle failed. Or am i missing something ?

Just fill them with drywall mud!

Usually that was an old original installl I pigtailwhen I replace them

By code you only have to pig tail if it’s a multi wire branch circuit. So the neutral isn’t reliant on a device but no problem since it’s faster and time is money

this some zesty shit

I posed this question earlier on another channel. Is there any advantage or reason where you might prefer to feed downstream devices from the receptacle rather than splice and pigtail?

a lot of people don’t seem to understand that the receptacles are not in series if you don’t pigtail. they are still in parallel. the face of the outlet can melt off and the wires are still going to have continuity between each other due to the plates underneath the screw. when you pigtail all you’re doing is moving the splice point from the plate underneath the screw to inside the box. if you don’t pigtail, and something causes things down the line to not work, you have quite a problem and a pigtail wouldn’t have prevented it in the first place. that being said, i like pigtails just so we only have to deal with one conductor per side vs 2. but there is absolutely nothing wrong with not pigtailing.

All good comments, I would add old outlets should be replaced when plugs are loose and start hanging down, not 90 degrees. Especially check in the kitchen and bathroom.

I'm not an electrician, I would prefer using the screws if I'm going to put a space heater on the outlet

If you can’t trust the screws to connect wires you probably shouldn’t trust the outlet at all. I see plenty of plugs from the 60s that still work just fine

I always pigtail, if there’s room

Resi no pigtails, always pigtail on commercial jobs though.

Pigtail

Greenies. Only thing I use. For decades.

Surprised I haven’t seen more people talking about the 14-2 back stabbed for the closet light. Whoever added that came off of what’s most likely a 20a circuit and 14 is only rated for 15a. Probable overloaded before that but it was most likely the nail in the coffin

All of that is true. But most electricians are using 16 gage now where we use to use 14. A lot of outlets and switches wont accept 14 into the push in. The wire. Is a little less expensive to the buikder, but a big headache to the burer or homeowners.

A pigtail is just another joint that can come loose another point of failure line and load

Gosh,solid wires??? Grew out of that loong time ago,have a look on Aussie cabling💪👍

Pigtail always the double screw connections are not made as a junction they're made for hot switching options

Loose connection or may have even been a stab in the back

Overload

All I can hear is “it works!”

Pigtail if it's 12 gauge, easier installation with only 2 conductors instead of 4. 14 gauge is more flexible, so either way is fine. A 20 amp receptacle should not be used on a 15 amp circuit with 14 gauge wire. You need spacers or an appropriate thickness single gang box extender to bring the box flush with the wall, the yokes should not be bent like that.

Continuous high load on that receptacle w/obvious sign of it being plugged in at top side and little to no time to recover from the heat (microwave/toaster/air fryer/whatever), another appliance downstream drawing at same time probably didn't help, may have happened over time or all at once eventually leading to enough arcing/a break in continuity between hot/neutral (it's possible hot melted enough to make contact with the ground/yolk/grounded metal box in wall) causing line and load unbalance at upstream GFCI which caused the reset, GFCI did its job and probably prevented this from becoming a much worse case scenario. Tis why NEC requires basically everything to be GFCI protected and so many dedicated circuits for kitchens.

I pigtail, it saves a ton of labor during "trim" and I never have warranty calls

I don’t think anyone understands someone snipped the top off to make it a grounding wire nut

That to me only applies to commercial wiring. You can pigtail if you choose to in residential….it’s really up to the installer I would say.

Looks like it only rated for 15 amps, kitchens should all be rated for 20.

I only pigtail if there’s 3 cables.

Pig tail

Good to meet the people that influence your work.

😂 thats awesome!

If you swap the green wire for the black there's no need for a pigtail

Both methods are Code acceptable, as the Code makes no recognition of either. Personally (being in the trade for 40 yrs, now retired) I prefer to pigtail. While it takes a little more time on new installs, I've always felt that NOT having the device carry the full downstream load is better. In commercial and industrial environments (where I did most of my work) it also allowed for changing-out a bad receptacle with the circuit "hot", since you are only un-wiring the device, and not the downstream loads.

Just picked these up at Lowe's on clearance for $15 I like em

I dont believe its ment to have them in the back and on the screws. I could be wrong but my assumption would be to use either or and not have loaded like that. But yes the back stab iv always been told not to use and loose connection on top of it being completely loaded on high draw outputs.

Mike holt slept w my wife..