Very well done, Sir.

Interesting points, all my lines are led to the cockpit EXCEPT the Cunningham and the outhaul. I rarely ever adjust them so 99% of the time not a problem. I am happily still sailing my Challenger 32, mostly single handed, and will be 87 next Saturday! I appreciate the genes that have given me good health and ability to keep on keeping on! John, S/V Felicity, out of Vallejo, CA

All standard when you've worked on fishing boats, also the bowline on the bight is a great knot for adding a loop in the middle of a long length of rope

great video - same goes for all your single handed content

Why can't they change the names to simple like forward and back right left ...no ya got to have a college degree to learn sailing

I don't get it. Some footage from some different angles would be helpful and a bit more step by step description

Do you run practical sailing courses on the island. I’m hoping to take some this winter as I have just bought a bigger boat.

Continuity is straight out of "Plan 9 from Outer Space", which flops from darkness to daylight. In this instance it's cloudy to sunny. NEVER MIND, it's still a very useful film.

NUC vsl Mastheadlight ??

Practiced this many times this past weekend. Now seeing it on screen and reinforcing what I learned and also gaining some perspective that I didnt have in the boat. Thanks for making this video.

Thank you. I'd love to sail with you.

If you are still monitoring this video, I am interested in how a stack pack affects reefing. If I have a stack pack, can I just let the loose part of the reefed sail lie in the stack pack rather than tying in the reef lines or sail tie? I will be sailing single handed offshore. I am looking for ways to simplify every task on the boat.

Thanks!

I've been a power boater off and on nearly 60 yrs, continuously though for the past 10. I've got formal training and been the go to person at many clubs and to handle many conditions. I don't feel omnipotent or superior but confident that "I can do this" even if I feel a bit anxious. But....with my first season owning a 26,000 lb 34ft long keel I have been humbled over and over. I've tried everything I can think, every option recommended and I can confidently say "I am on a passenger on a boat with a mind of it's own and which varies with wind/maybe current conditions". The only thing that saves me is a spring line but even after I've momentum and starting in the correct direction, the boat again does what it wants. Even in forward. I just make sure I have the space and then complete the turn in the direction it's going. Sometimes I can't complete the turn and have to reverse, deal with the direction and then forward again to complete. It's a nightmare at times. I find bursts of power only exxacerbates the push on the hull. I generally prefer power just beyond idle to overcome inertia but even then sometimes neither does anything. Sometimes it even pulls uncontrollably to the opposite side than expected. I have extra windage with a large wheelhouse which I suspect is the root

Thank you, and thank you Tony!

But what about anchoring single handed? Especially in strong breeze?

Nice and clear, just the right attention to detail. I appreciated the passing safety check that the companionway slide is closed and the mainsheet hardened before you climb onto the cabin top. We develop these small efficiencies and safety habits through repeated practice, so that under difficult conditions we're already in the habit of doing the right thing.

Superb video. I am looking forward to trying this method.

Outstanding. I’m learning so much from you. Thank you.

This was an outstanding video but shouldn’t the tether be to keep you in the boat, not if you fall in the water? Seems to me that it’s too long. Every video seems to want it long in case you fall in the water. If that’s the case, you’re being dragged. I just need some clarification.

Many thanks for your videos ! Just one question / comment : you do not speak (and do not use) your traveller for the main sail. For me it is a key tool for gybing in the weather conditions you were in. Downwind at the beginning (to release wind pressure), in the middle before gybing, and very quickly downwind after the gybe (before or after gybing the front sail, depending on the wind and sea conditions). All my greetings from Britanny !

Nice one

When your out in the middle of nothing your first method is very fast ruled out😊

Marco: Great material. Thank you. One feedback: slow your presentation down a little. Otherwise, great.

I just had this happen last weekend that I chafed through 2/3 strands of nylon rode on the anchor roller. Almost left $200 worth of new Rocka Vulcan anchor in 26 feet of 55 deg water. I also wonder if its worth doing one on both side to equalize the strain?

Great video, thanks

what source do you most recommend for acquiring navigational charts and course plotting equipment?

He does it wrong. You must ease the main to do it correctly

I know this is probably a stupid question but: Why make the tethers 6' Long? Wouldn't the slack from the Jacklines and a 3' tether keep you from going overboard while giving you enough slack to do things?

Such useful and informative content. No fluff all gold.

Love the info and the way you also leave it up to the sailor to make the final decision based on the boat and conditions. Great information

Very helpful - thanks!

On every boat I've ever been on I'm the first to put on a PFD, the only one with a rigging knife/marlin spike, and my tether is always attached. I've read the accident reports. Most drownings are of people not wearing a life jacket. They were 'within reach,' which is the US Coast Guard requirement, but whatever happened the person in the water couldn't reach it or was unconscious. What I did for my own 46' sailboat which I usually sail solo is my jacklines are high up. The previous owner was a fire fighter, so good safety knowledge and thinking. I liked it so I've kept them up high. They don't get in the way of anything. My double tether is a bit long.... After seeing a KZbin video where they discussed What happens if you go over the life lines and your hanging there? Can you pull yourself up? I think I can, but what I've done is to DIY 1" webbing to make a 4' (1.2m) tether. It's sewn correctly. At one end is a loop where I use a carabiner to attach it to my PFD, but at the other end the loop extends back about 16" (40 cm). There's a loop right at the end, but then about about 12"(30cm) there's a bulge to make another attachment point ( then enough webbing to sew all the rows of stitches to make it strong). So there are two carabiners at this end. This is specific to my boat. If I fall, I won't go over the life lines but I have enough slack to do almost everything I might need to do. The second carabiner allows me to have a shorter length so a bit more secure, but it also gives me the needed secure transfer around the shrouds where my jacklines are attached. For headlamps what I've learned is that all of the inexpensive ones are too dim to be of much use. Get a good one. I have a Black Diamond. I love the rechargeable battery (you don't need one with a monster battery at the back of your head. I can use mine on deck, working on projects, reading a book.) I always carry a >2000 mAh lithium battery and charging cords. If say my iPhone drains I can loop the cord around my neck, plug my phone in and tuck the battery in a pocket. I've also found that really bright LED flashlights are small enough for a pocket, but bright enough to shine around rocks and things on moonless nights. I always have one that goes up to 1700 Lumens in my pocket (nerd with emergency training...) But I've got another one on board that's even brighter maybe 3000 lumens. You want these to have multiple light levels, a strobe, red light, and a rechargeable battery. This one replaces a huge 6 or 12v one that has something as big as a car headlamp on it. Always on the back end of my flashlights I wrap that stretchy silicone tape. Now I can securely hold it in my teeth without damaging my teeth. You also want a good waterproof rating. A salt environment can be really hard, even on waterproof electronics. (First step when anything electrical doesn't work is Contact Cleaner.) Binoculars. Great advice. They need to work at night, so 7x50. I also have a pair of Fujinon 14x40 TSX1440 Image-Stabilized Binoculars. These cost about U$1300. Absolutely brilliant. Unlike the stabilized Canons these don't 'fuzz' out when stabilized. They're tack sharp. But what you see is only about one quarter as bright as 7 x 50s; so at night? Pretty useless. I've had a pair for a few years, love them. I've read more sides of ships and identified more 'stuff' far out in front of the boat with them. But these are only in addition to 7x 50s. I've got the Spinlock PFD, added a personal EPIRB (I am almost always the only sailor on board, even when there are other people. If I go overboard I can't count on my friends remembering what to do. The Mustang is a lot more comfortable (at the neck). I made crotch straps for the Mustang, then made a bunch for friends. 1" webbing, a loop stitched on one end. This gets carabiner'd to one side of the PFD, then the webbing goes under a leg, then up and through the vertical back strap and then down under the other leg. At this end I have slide adjusters and a carabiner. This way it can be adjusted. What I know is that if anyone in that vest is dropped a hook from a helicopter all they have to do is clip in, they are not going to fall out of that rig. The Spinlock came with a strap. PFDs with crotch straps can be a little fussy to put on... but wearing it is comfortable. You put them on like a pair of pants. The Gerber knife looks really good. One thing when buying a knife for use at sea. Check the reviews. Does it hold its edge? I've got a kayaking knife that I thought was pretty good, but whenever I went to use it the edge was gone. To cut Kevlar, and Dyneema for making soft shackles I bought a pair of Claus Shears. 8" Really useful and not too expensive. Better than any pair of scissors. Do those ceramic knives shatter if they get dropped on something hard? If so get two. They're cheap enough. For gloves. I have terrible circulation in my hands and feet, so I needed gloves to keep my hands warm. For a very long High North Pacific ocean crossing I stepped onboard with a pair of lined rubber janitor gloves. Everybody had a good laugh. They were brilliant (the gloves, not the knuckleheads. They also laughed at carabiners and paracord. I hid my stash of Vietnamese aluminum clothes hangers - until I started using them.) What I have now are heavy duty rubber gloves that go up my arm a bit, and merino wool liners - two pairs. This way I can swap out the liners to dry. The rubber gloves cost like $10 and liners? $30. They work almost as good as sailing gloves, they might get damaged but they'll protect your hands. For general safety mind set I follow aviation accident analysis. Once flying was one of the most dangerous things anyone could do. Commercial aviation is now safer than driving to the airport. There's an expectation of every pilot that if they do something wrong, they need to report it. There's no penalty for reporting it. The FAA wants to know, what you think you did wrong, and why do you think you did it? I always say, I will be the dumbest guy on the boat, but I will learn everything I can. Checklists. The best most experienced pilots always use checklists. It's too easy to be interrupted by something, another person, a thought, almost anything, and then not remember a step. (This is why my engine keys are kept on my engine thru hull. I once opened that hatch, and closed the valve. I'd forgotten to close it after the last time I went out. My brain was not 'it has to be open,' but 'reach in and turn it.' I've been using ball valves for over 40 years at that point. Stupid mistake? That's what nitpickers would say. Human mistake. What someone else did, I might do.) Stay safe. Sorry to go on and on.

Great video and subject. I once took a trip for fun in a boat with a captain that charge a fee to go. One the return trip, the starboad toe rail was in the water, and there were small kids on board, which were freaking because they couldn't stand straight, and were visibly crying. The captain ignored the kids, and by then I could see the stress on the shrouds. I was a bit anxious as well, but I knew the drill, though on my own boat, I'm not racing, so once I get close to 15° of heel, it's time to reef. Needless to say, never went on another trip with that captain.

So Reef The Main Centre it Up into the Wind Then The Main Traveller Sets The Sail ...as the Jib Luffs and Tacks to the other side Lock the Wheel to Starboard and Have a Cuppa Tea ...I am away from Boats at present and would like to get this Ingrained into an Automatic Manoeuvre is this a partial understanding...Thanks for Showing👍

Straight from the mouths of top Americas Cup helmsmen : they aim for 5⁰-7⁰ of rudder angle upwind. This is because the rudder is much more efficient at creating lift than the keel because it articulates and so does not require leeway to create lift. Thus the more lift generated by the rudder, the less leeway. In most classes this is in that 5⁰-7⁰ of rudder angle, though obviously it will vary by boat and rudder type.

The main cause of weather helm when heeled is NOT underwater shape change, but that the rig is moved out to the leeward side which of course means that the thrust is applied out to that side.

What an absolutely amazing video. Many thanks 👍

seem some problems for using the steps, if u do not have an mechanical hoisting equipment it is difficult to pull up yourself

what is the brand of this shoe ?

I use a folded/doubled 25ft dock line with a prusik hitch attached to the chain or rode. I run it through the second bow roller so I don’t worry about abrasion from the toe rail. Seems to work well and easily so far.

When did you tightern the boom vang? Never noticed it.

If there is something like excellence in teaching, this is it. Sailing student here, I have already watched half of your videos, and indeed the level of teaching in all of them is consistently excellent. Greetings from the Uk!

Excellent demo. Thank you.

Good, useful, articulate. Just one thing, similar to all documents I have come across, Taiwan is marked as being in region A when it is in region B. Regards to all fellow boaters.

Why don't you just round off the edges of the metal. Then they won't chafe the rope.

Nice Video! Saves Lives

im thinking re rigging with new in mast furl sail mast for main and my mizzen. my main mast needs a new base plate, its rusting away..lol so why not go all out right.. lol work smarter not harder and i have the monies and time to do it.. plus more...... upgrades too.. making an old boat a new boat aint fun but very rewarding

Best sailing knots video. Thank you.

Fantastic video 🙏🙏👍