That's an H4 carb, by the way. H6 has four mounting bolts, not two, as can be seen. Chris Crees, ex-SU factory service tech.

Not that convinced about the shining for the bearing to twist like in your drawing the outer race would have to be a poor fit in the hub so much so you won’t need a press to put it in the hub why not use 601 bearing locking ? I will change my bearing this week not that they are leaking but like the up grade

Fabulous sound....

I'm stunned the MG has survived after what would have been a hard campaigned car when Phil owned it. Do we know how much of the car is original re panel work, drive train etc?

This is great. I never knew about this car. Its in perfect condition! Thanks again for posting this. Im in Litchfield County, CT... Big fan of Lime Rock Park!

Vielen Dank Doug für die Vorstellung des tollen Wagens! J.Buttler MG TC 1949

Wow that's so cool Thank you sir

Ich würde mich sehr freuen, wenn Sie regelmäßig Videos rund um Arbeiten am TC veröffentlichen würden. Vielen Grüße aus Deutschland! MG TC 8564

I would also like the car that you restored🤗

I'm sure that the number of rotations you've made to prime the pump is at least equal to those it takes the engine to normally build pressure. So a lot of effort for no gain. Yes, I do have an xpag engine, and agree that it takes a looong time to build pressure.

Thank you for the video Doug! Appreciate the help as always.

It's beyond perfect. Unfortunately its too pristine to use.

Great explanation of the slow running control both brackets are missing on my car and was wondering just how it was supposed to work now I know

Thanks for the video. I was able to order a rebuikd kit locally in Australlia from a Brake suplier that deals in parts for many old cars. The spreader washer often talked about was not required because the new rubber cup had one moulded into it. One difference though was the little valve body suplied in the kit does not fit into the opening of the spring so I have retained the original. Also it came with 2 types of secondary seals depending on what type was originaly fitted. I guess the master cylinder was common to other British makes and not just MG. My Master cylinder has already been resleeved and the container is made from solid metal with a cap the same as on top of a gearbox or diff. A 29mm box spanner that comes with most house tap repairs fits neatly over the large nut to remove from the chassis. I did not disturb the extension tupe for fear of not being able to get a new copper washer but had internals honed. My reason for dismantling was a rear cylinder was sticking so thought may as well check all . Great video Doug.

Great video. Very informative! Thanks Doug.

Your video are extremely informative and thats the right way to restore a TC Sir!!

Good Video, From The Frame Up has been good providing some TD parts as well.

Always glad to get your advise on MG TCs Sir

promo sm

A always no b/s aadvice from Doug !

Good to have you back on screen! Best regards from an avid follower!

Always informative

Thank you!

Die allerbeste Adresse, wenn es um Teile für den TC geht. Der Online Katalog ist atemberaubend. Es gibt nichts Vergleichbares weltweit. Herzliche Grüße aus Deutschland!

Thank you for the kind words. Doug

Always nice to see you Mr.Pelton you are indeed great help to me restoreing my MGTCs Sir giving correct info as well as to precure hard to find MG parts which no body else does being your customer from far off India I know keep up the good work Sir thank you!!

Many thanks for a very detailed description of replacing with the modified rear hub seal kit. And adding the torque settings.

Nice film. Im about to put mine back together. I have a rubber ring in my repair kit that seemed like a spare part. I can see it's the first part to go in. Previous owner must've missed it out. I do have a thin metal ring in mine that you don't show. How important is that bit?

Hi Doug, Just to be sure, the thread on the bearing retaining nut is left on the left side, so the opposite of the knock-off? Also any suggestions on haw to remove the original nut? Thanks.

I am confused about the " fibre board strip and bifurcated rivets"; where and why is that part?

Doug, I drove my TD to Reno from Michigan. First time I've come across this video of yours. Great build!

Thanks for the info on the slow running mechanism. I took it apart 15 years ago and have misplaced bits due to moving to various properties. Watching any footage of TC’s makes my heart feel 18 ( when I purchased my TC 9291) again. I’m now 74 and for the first time in my life, it’s ‘My Time’. Keep it up. Love your work. Best regards from Australia.

This oproved helpful in rebuilding the hubs of a J3 Midget.

happened twice on my TD too. on two hot days (100+) and long distances >100 miles with lots of cornering, i've had two rear axle oil leaks into the rear brake shoes. the first time, i thought the seals were bad. i replaced them and the metal cones too. it happened again and i figured that the air pressure relief hole in the axle housing was plugged, so i double checked that it was clear. but now i'm wondering if this is just a chronic problem with these cars and its just a matter of time before it happens again.

Great instruction. Love your explanation and demonstration.

anyone know what gear oil i should use? 1937 TA

Hello, Doug. Thanks for the great video. One question. I noticed you left the original reverse scroll in the axle when you installed the new kit. Would it not be more prudent to remove it so that, in case it is working as was originally designed, you don't have the risk of the new lip seal running dry? Thanks, Alvan Judson

Thanks!

Hi , I'm restoring a 47 tc in india,I was looking for a frame for this car, appreciate if you could advise

Ist class job. Well done.

But you don't show how to remove the master cylinder from the frame, especially the pushrod.

Very informative and very much appreciative on the video of how to rebuild the Master cylinder for the TC! Now to take it out and order the much needed parts to rebuild it! Thank you, Doug! Looking forward to seeing you on our next visit to Meza! Bruce

What a brilliant and informative set of video's. These will really help me when I come to the trimming of my MGTF replica project. Kind regards from Paul at 48 Spokes (UK)

Hi Doug, can you buy the supply tanks anywhere as mine is rusty. TIA Mal

Very informative video's, Thank you Doug.

Outstanding detail and great camera work. This will definitely make the process on my TD (while a bit different) go much faster. The details on how to cut/fold the vinyl were really helpful. Can't wait to watch the rest of your videos. Thanks again for taking the time to document and share your process and results.

Where can I buy this kit and how much does it cost?

WOW, that is really like new...I have always loved T series, specially this model with 19 inch wheels.

Any kit for the TD (1951) ?

Just asking.. wouldn't it be easier to slide the steering excluder over the column first and then bolt it to the bulkhead when the column is installed. Seems like it would be a little tricky to manhandle the column and steering gear into the excluder after its mounted to the panel.