Are Flicker Free LED Shop Lights Worth It?

[@AdamsLab]

An FYI, it’s the driver that makes an LED like “flicker free” so if you already have lights (fixtures, strips or what have you) and want to make them flicker free just look for a flicker free driver.

[@Sevalecan]

Correct. The question is can you get a driver more cheaply than replacing these dumb integrated fixtures? But again, these fixtures are way too expensive as is. This is about the worst thing with LED lights is they're trying to move into integrated light fixtures, and LEDs dim over time, so you're going to throw your fixture away every time they need to be replaced...

[@slavkosky]

While a high quality driver will get you flicker-free, it's the LEDs that determine how accurate the color rendition is. Waveform's LED specs go beyond the typical 'CRI' (color rendering index) rating you see on most other fixtures. I could go down a rabbit hole on this but to keep it concise, the CRI rating doesn't cover the rendition of pleasing skin tones well. The 'Ra' and 'R9' values are much better metrics, and in the case of these 4000k shop lights James got have an Ra=96.1 and R9=86 (those are both damn good numbers by the way)

[@markrainford1219]

Or just run them from DC.

[@AdamsLab]

@@markrainford1219 - Errr, they already are.

[@markrainford1219]

@@AdamsLab Secondary side of a cheap AC fed power supply can be far from being DC Err.

[@RestorationStation]

This video is right up my alley haha. I don't think 99% of people who watch your videos notice or care about banding or lighting continuity between edits, but this is the type of stuff that keeps us up at night. I ended up buying 95 CRI lights for the whole shop, but I wish I had considered flickering issues with LEDs running on AC power

[@barryomahony4983]

Count me as part of the 99%. I watched this on a very big, very nice TV on a 1 Gig internet connection, and could barely see the banding he was talking about.

[@Tritium21]

I was going to say that the color rendering didn't look that different ... until you put up the side by side comparison. The new lights are night and day better.

[@Hagledesperado]

Agreed, the side by side comparison was eye opening. The color rendition went from merely OK to proper good.

[@DavidSchmitt]

Even the shirt upgraded to a button polo 😂

[@georgescott6967]

I reckon that painting your plaster board white would likely help too.

[@G.B]

Agree

[@billstoner5559]

I was thinking the same thing. Would it get rid of the yellow and make a harsher white light? Maybe…

[@dlgloege]

My thoughts exactly. Then we can watch paint dry for 25 minutes while James obsesses over the perfect shade of white. 🙂

[@erik_dk842]

I seriously don't understand why US garages are left with unpainted interior light absorbing surfaces. Old OSB plates are the worst

[@chatch15117]

@@erik_dk842 my home was built in 2021 and it has fully finished interior. I also bought 4000k lights which are already diffused

[@thecommentary21]

I thought Adam Savage was bad with his OCD but you sir, are the unquestioned KING of OCD on youtube! 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

[@ptsdchannel]

LOL!!!! Sorry but I burst out laughing and even spilling my drink when I read your comment. I think I have to agree. It must be miserable in a way to live life like that.

[@Zardwark]

James can obsess over things I never knew existed 😞

[@thecommentary21]

@@Zardwark LOL. Yeah I can see that.

[@advil000]

He's not at all. Most people just have no idea how much eye strain and annoyance they cause themselves with crappy lights. My high bay linear shop lights are no flicker, 150w, white diffusers that cast some light at 90 degrees, CRI of 90+. The room is both seriously bright AND pleasant to be in. Red is red. There's no eye strain. And you don't feel like you need to have a ball cap on when a light is in your peripheral vision. This stuff matters. And the stupid part is these lights only cost about $50 a piece. But if you look for lights that meet all these requirements it reduces your choices down to only a few... because most LED lights just aren't designed from the ground up to make a space pleasant to be in... just to cast max lumens. That's ok for throwing light across your driveway, but it sucks horribly for indoor light in a space you are supposed to be doing precision work in.

[@zmdoor]

@@advil000 Do you have a link to the lights by chance????

[@joedowling5452]

Like many other commenters I never noticed the artifacts in your video until you pointed it out. That said, the color with the new lights is an improvement over the old.

[@JohnThawley]

It’s gratifying to see someone obsess about lighting as much as I do. Bravo.

[@Rob_65]

Yes, flicker free lights are an absolute must in every shop. Not only for filming, the flickering sometimes results in a strobing effect (especially on very cheap panels) and it may even result in headaches (not just because of the video shooting problems...). I bought panels that are specified to be "UGR

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

The new light is obviously better than the old one. Everything I do takes a lot longer than I thought. The boss lady always set aside twice as much time as I say to expect. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.

[@M3nd0zaBrack3n]

Lighting tech here. We usually cut our gels (lee filters) on a grooved board with a knife/exactoblade/razorblade to get the sizes we need. Super quick and super easy, also easily cuttable as a stack of 3-7 layers, depending on how skilled you are.

[@AnonymousBosch]

My first thought would have been to try a single to 3-phase converter and split the lighting load, paint the ceiling silk white and also bounce a few lights upwards. Always great seeing how different people come up with different solutions.

[@FullSendPrecision]

If you paint what you can, of the ceiling and walls with gloss white, you'll get a huge positive difference in light

[@pendarischneider]

The flicker caused by the AC would go away if the LED units were powered by clean DC. Presumably the new units have a decent rectifier and filter circuit doing this. Thank you for a very good demonstration of some hidden gotchas I would not have thought of - nicely demonstrated as well. Someone else might take your experience as a learning moment, and build their own units. The LED strips would need a clean DC power supply which would be easy enough to buy/build and then the light units would be powered from a low voltage DC distribution. The light units could consist of bare LED strips mounted along a length of square tube with a sheet of diffuser film fixed to the top of this bar and circled under. End caps will allow for wires, diffuser sheet containment and mounting.

[@user-fy2tm2jg6c]

I read the led website. They are not powered by dc, they are still pwm but at a much higher frequency than usual. These are 25khz. Good for flicker and audible noise, bad for rf generation.

[@pendarischneider]

Thanks@@user-fy2tm2jg6c for the clarification. I am old school in thinking LED means diode where current only flows one way through them. Of course this is still true but the devices can be packaged as pairs so AC current will work efficiently with each diode in the pair conducting in its turn. That this 25KHz can cause problems in some cases is correct - think dogs and bats which can hear these frequencies, which can be generated as noise when current is near metal fittings. Personally I prefer DC for LED lights but this can be more expensive, and, like I said, I'm old school. 😃

[@user-fy2tm2jg6c]

@@pendarischneiderI think one main issue with driving them with pure DC is government regulation. They have to hit certain efficiency figures in order to sell them, which may only be possible with pwm and other switched methods.

[@greengohm]

Even before showing shots of you side by side I immediately noticed your skin having much more pleasing color. Side by side view confirmed that. Another fantastic video, James. You are always an inspiration!

[@lwilton]

When I was doing lighting ages ago, a paper cutter was a fast way to cut small sheets for the gel holder of Lekos, Fresnels, or Pars or the like. But any long cut was done with a matte knife and a straightedge. If there was no flat surface handy to cut against you could use a pair of sewing scissors. Start the cut, then just hold the shears at a constant open angle and push them down the cut. Works really fast with sharp shears, and with a little care can cut very accurately down a line.

[@bobtorrence3461]

I always love your approach to solving problems and the professional looking outcomes. Well done James!

[@zaprodk]

The new DC-lighting looks soo much nicer. And the better CRI really shows - Good job!

[@DeadeyeDaily]

Lee is where it's at! Plug and play! straight edge and a utility knife, and you're good to go.

[@tobiasripper4124]

the new/old contrast really shows the effect. its amazing how used we get to certain types of light fixtures. to me, the old looks "familiar" or "normal", while the new looks ... odd, yet so much better.. but still odd. i'd say its like when we started replacing incandecent lamps for fluorecent ones, then leds. that jump from incandecent to fluorecent played some tricks on my visual cortex back then. then my brain became acostumed to the new lights. Anyway, out with the old, in with the new. amazing progress, i like what i see.

[@prototype3a]

Another option for diffusion film is D-C-Fix "milky". I've used it with good results on a few projects in the past. It is a self adhesive film sort of like a laminating film so you might have been able to simply stick it to the factory "glass".

[@flikflak24]

36:46 yes there is a difference from old to new. The color of the new looks more full and there don't seem to he that brighter high spot /high light on the motor on the mill. It looks more even

[@design8studio]

Love the hanger clip design. Will be doing this for my LED lights in my workshop

[@craigs5212]

I purchased their bare strips to retrofit a 4 tube fixture over my electronics test bench. To power the fixture I used a switching DC power supply, thus I have no flicker. I modified the power supply to add a voltage control so I can adjust the brightness. I really do like the CRI 95+ and I have plenty of light for SMD soldering.

[@siberx4]

The skin tones are _visibly_ better after the swap; very much worth it! CRI is super important, and often under-emphasized in lighting (especially for "shop" spaces). It's frequently impossible to find any CRI rating _at all_ on packaging when I check out LED lights available at the local hardware store, and I won't buy anything below 90CRI so it's quite frustrating!

[@Voidmonster]

It's always reassuring to see other folks wrestle with infinitely elastic projects that just keep stretching that goalpost out. Back when I got some cheap Viltrox panel lights specifically for a tiny studio lighting setup, they came with diffusers but they barely worked. Had the same problem with hotspots and a zillion jagged shadows. My solution was to nab a big TV with a shattered LCD panel some neighbors threw out and to steal the diffusers out of that. Worked great! Also, the light guides in TVs are all fancy. It was like 5 layers of different kinds of films and in total pretty seriously reduced overall brightness. So I just went with one layer. Also, I think your effort was worth it. The new lights look good!

[@NWGR]

Definitely better than before; less washed out and more saturated colors. The lack of diffusion would have bugged me as well. I probably would have went with simple stick-on diffusion material though.

[@joell439]

wow - your dedication to high production quality is very commendable and appreciated.

[@davepost7675]

I've used white parchment paper (for baking) as a diffuser that worked well.

[@JFirn86Q]

I would have never thought just a screw into drywall like that would hold! That mount is pretty smart man.

[@Oberkaptain]

I just sprayed matte varnish on the existing window.

[@Cookie-cn2jc]

Much, much better. Even though the color temp was the same, the new lights appear to give a much truer color, especially skin tones to mu eye.

[@TheUncleRuckus]

Even at 480p I can definitely see a difference in picture quality, it's much sharper/clearer of an image now. If I didn't know any better I'd think you got a different camera there that much of a noticeable difference.. Great video as always James! 👍👍

[@MichaelLloyd]

I think it's a lot better now that you showed the side by side. I never noticed any problems before though.

[@mkegadgets4380]

Very interesting build and great use of your 3-D printers. With the old lights down I’m surprised you didn’t take the time to paint the ceiling. Maybe give you a little more light reflection a bit more even look forward to your next video

[@tullgutten]

If you didn't notice the diffusion also made the roof A LOT brighter so it will be softer in that way also, was very noticeable when you installed the first one. A good improvement for filming and quality of life in the shop 😁

[@rpower1401]

I have to give my respect to your dedication to the quality of your craft. Great job on the mounts. When i did mine I just didn't care and put steel straps across them and screwed it into the ceiling. As for diffuses, I would have just lightly sanded or sand blasted the clear lens on the housing...but I'm also impatient on this type of task...refer to straps for mounts lol

[@PaulSteMarie]

Intertec is an equivalent to UL, based in German IIRC. Big Clive would most likely tell you to just crack open the old lights and add a capacitor to the DC side of the driver.

[@richms]

Finally a youtuber doing something about this plague of crap LED lighting in their videoing space. Its worse for use outside the US, as we have 50Hz, so we either have to video at 50FPS and get something that plays like crap for most people, or else put up with the camera doing the syncing and making a 60FPS video with really bad motion.

[@sheep1ewe]

As i jut mentioned to another commen, i could not even find proper drivers for the reading coach in my dining room that did not flicker or disturbed some of my DX equipment, and one could just forget to find pulse dimmers that worked, i could not stand to even be in the room more than like 30 secunds whan i sat it to the desired light intensity i wanted, it was just unbearable for the eyes even without a camera... I think the main issue is that the drivers one find in the regular hardware store are way off and can not that high up in frequency, they seem to only chop it up in badly flickering pulses, and the pro ones are like 200$ per unit where i live... As i wrote above it ended up i had to install a fluorescent tube armature in order to get rid of all the disturbance and also not getting crap back into my radio room... I got fedup then so i still use it. However it does not quite work well for photo shoots because of the light spectrum is wrong on those old mercury lights, but for waht i did back then i could get away by switching it off and rigging up my old xenon lights. So, well... no...

[@KevinBrowder]

big fan of 24v high cri led strips with aluminum extrusion holders+diffusers; good 24v powersuplies are pretty easy to come by (eg meanwell).

[@AlexMusayev]

A few years ago, I was also searching for light diffusing materials. The goal was to achieve even light diffusion for RGB LEDs located behind a control panel while keeping the overall device dimensions (height) minimal. I ended up using a similar semi-transparent plastic film. Not something specialized like Lee Filters, but just general-purpose sheet plastic. Today's takeaway from your video is the reference to the Lee Filters brand. I'll consider using this type of film if I ever need diffusing material again. Thanks, James!

[@lwilton]

There are several brands available, all equally good. Rosco, Lee, and Cinemoid come to mind immediately. Prices vary, so it can be worth shopping around. Gel normally comes in sheets about 24x30, or in rolls, such as he showed here. Sheets are cheaper than rolls if you don't need a huge amount of a single color, and are easier to store than boxes of rolls. Rolls are better for things like a movie shoot where you may have to cover all the windows down 80 feet of the side of an office to color-correct the ambient light from outside.

[@crashkg]

I work as a cinematographer and have to deal with this flicker nightmare all the time. When I do car commercials many times the different panel and lights will flicker at different hz rates because they were sourced from many places. When the set dec dept brings practical lighting to the set sometimes they will flicker at certain frame rates. Sometimes you can take it out by adjusting the shutter angle of the camera to 144 degree shutter. The banding in youtube videos really annoys me, but I thought it was just me being nit picky. Thank you for solving the issue.

[@dathat555]

Diffusion spray coating is available at craft stores and big box hardware stores. Rust-oleum has a "Frosted Glass" version. That said, for the price Waveform should offer a diffused option.

[@shawnstuart1029]

For 2 grand I say its a worthwhile addition to your already massive investment. Curious why you didn't just cut them to size to fit flat on the existing panel, but figured you probably thought it would not be diffuse enough. I use the 4 inch round led slip in pots in my shop, you can set them to 3000,4000,5000 in the supplied power box. I use 5000 and love it. When one of the lights stop working, I disassemble the light, test for the burnt out Led (using a multimeter in diode mode) and solder in a new one (using a hot air station from below the led strip) and its saved me from buying a new one many many times.

[@AlexSwavely]

Cutting long strips evenly off a roll is fairly easy - mount the roll on a spindle with a sharp blade clamped at the appropriate distance from the end, and pull through. Search terms: balsa strip cutter / leather strap cutter / tape slitter. (not that you need it now, but there might be use in the future)

[@0x574c]

Or just put the roll directly through a bandsaw

[@frigzy3748]

I got into the exact same Costco trap: bought a few of $30 shop lights. Really liked them, wanted to buy more, but they suddenly disappeared from their stock 🙁

[@christoph72761]

Except for the 960 frames per second clip, I have not noticed the banding etc. but now I can. Thanks I guess. 😛 It's called being a perfectionist. And there is nothing wrong with that! Definitely an improvement in overall look. Thank you for sharing.

[@Cybernetic_Systems]

The new lights look great, the colour rendering improvement is quite dramatic on my calibrated OLED TV, And still very noticeable on my cheap LCD TV.

[@danpumphrey9645]

When you have a 3D printer, it's nice to have a project to justify it. I would purchase some neodymium magnets from Amazon, screw them to the ceiling, and stick the lights to them. I put magnets on my lights and stuck them to the metal I beam in my shop, and it works great.

[@f.hababorbitz]

Any way you could insert a filter capacitor on the internal DC bus on your old lights? Large farad count with voltage is probably the limit. My new garage is lighted with very low cost LED fixtures. I have unpainted drywall, and there's no comparison to room brightness with my wife's sewing room (24x32 space), with super white latex paint. I'm going to paint the garage walls and ceilings as it's not bright enough, and there's 24 lights in the garage, 4500mc each (26x44 space), where the sewing room only has 6 fixtures (from Harbor Freight) and it's brighter then the garage.

[@billdoodson4232]

It's amazing how much difference decent LED lighting can make. My thoughts though, are whats in the big cardboard box with "Team Lift" printed on it.

[@cucumbersonfire]

You are a man of superior patience! I fear that all of the diffuser paper and all of the lights might have wound up in the bin after attemping to tuck the paper into one of them, if it were me... Can't argue with the results though.

[@transmitterguy478]

James, try running them off of DC. Make yourself a 120-volt DC power supply and see if they light up. Just thinking.

[@David_Hogue]

I got an Opple 3 to check my office lighting frequency, CRI, and temp. I don't know if the expense was necessary, but it's nice to know.

[@zeke7515]

Definitely looks better. Would've been neat if you had some before/after shots of certain tools (or fruit as they usually use) for comparison. But it's going to be a very worthy upgrade to the shop.

[@benfranz5812]

Expecting screws to hold in drywall long term may not be best. A few dollars worth of EZ-Anchors and an extra 30 seconds to install them at each fastener would be worth it. I do think the new lighting is a big improvement.

[@davidcashin9194]

Hi James really does improve the video the colour seems some what sharper anyway it all good in the hood.

[@tullgutten]

For filming in flickering lights and to have zero motion chopping if you film in 30 frames per second you want the shutter speed to be 2/60 or 1/30. Then each frame is averaging a longer time instead of having a fast shutter that might be very dark. But then your camera won't be able to adjust easy for high or low light so you must manually use Neutral density filters (sun glass for camera) when it is bright and just ISO adjustment isn't enough. Learned this when filming with dji drone for panning since if you have it on auto the video is choppy and seems like it is lagging

[@JCWren]

Verra nice. I just finished putting up 77,000 lumens (14 x 5500 lumen) of LED lights from Horror Fright. No video being made in the garage, but it's great for working on cars. Entire project costed about $220 (lights were on sale). These are the "new" 1 tube versions. I have about 30 of the older 2-tube version, and they're about 500K hotter than these. Some of them are 8 years old, maybe even older, and I've never had one fail. Also, what are the blinky lights at 20:15?

[@terryandrews49]

Good to see the benefits of OCD Good job

[@SolomanPhenox]

You can also use a can of "frost" like you use in Christmas decoration to frost your windows.

[@MattOGormanSmith]

Your old lights would probably run fine on DC (YMMV, IANAEE) so you could have built a single box with a fat rectifier and smoothing caps. If the lamps have high frequency SMPS inside, then you might have strobing with the H scan of the cameras instead, so the ideal lamp would be plain series strings running directly at mains voltage. You could even put smoothing caps in all lamps like this. It would be more work but it would keep the wiring standard AC.

[@AllenCavedo]

Abom79 put up a lot of high intensity LED round lights in his new shop and had a terrible banding issue in his videos. He changed the shutter angle of his cameras to mostly eliminate it but it still shows up occasionally.

[@Bigwingrider1800]

I'm kind of an older guy I NEED LIGHT. My boss put the 220v star burst lights in the shop and it was like the sunshine BRIGHT. But he said something about the dark spots in he's vision and told him to stop looking directly into the lights. 25 foot ceiling and no shadows anywhere. I just have to do my garage the shop side this is next.

[@The_Privateer]

I think it's interesting that you wanted to eliminate the chain to get more of a 'flush mount' to the ceiling... but the length of the mount is just as long as letting light hang from chain. Wondering why you didn't design in key slots in the mount so you could slip it over screw heads.

[@RathOX]

This is why i use aputure lights

[@WilliamLeue]

Much better lighting!

[@JimWhitaker]

Except for the slow motion clips, I can't see the problem you are talking about! The slow motion change is great and the colours are obviously better. I agree with you about how LED's are irritating when in direct vision.

[@PowerScissor]

I thought I was looking at my garage shop ceiling for a second. I have those same Costco lights, and used UniStrut for mounting misc things from the ceiling in 2 strut rows about 4" apart. Sheetrock is taped,but unpainted. I have an orange extention ladder up there. I literally thought I was looking at my ceiling for a brief moment

[@MrGadgetgav]

Definitely an improvement! When it came to cutting the diffuser film, was it too thick to use something like an Olfa rolling knife? I'd have thought a straightedge and one of those would have been a quicker way to get straight cuts. Maybe it would have been too hard to keep a 4ft straightedge in place.

[@avejst]

Great project The Light is mutch better. Thanks for sharing your experiences with all of us :-)

[@JBLewis]

The skin tones in the comparison are MUCH better with the new LEDs.

[@broderfoder9348]

Diffusion 360 for all your lightning needs.

[@twobob]

110% better. without question. more rounded colour handling and an overally more sumptuous finish to the resulting footage.

[@sheep1ewe]

The new lights give a more natural look in comparision.

[@Bob_Adkins]

A clear cover sprayed with clear mat rattle can paint makes a surprisingly good diffuser, though you still see the LED's.

[@bendingsands87]

I love seeing your 3d printed part iterations and how you develope them. The lighting stuff is okay too😊. How do you like that tablet? Recently I've been wanting something like that. Does it allow you to make lines, circles, shapes, etc? I'd love it if there was a pad like that that had basic Cad functions for drawing.

[@ryansprunger9218]

Great video. A couple family members of mine get headaches from led flicker and glare. Today I ordered five of the waveform lights for a new garage We are building. Have you considered selling some of the flush clips you made? I would definitely buy 10 of them..

[@keithmonarch447]

Hi James. A couple comments from me. I didn't buy the real cheap LED fixtures. I noticed much less, since my power grid really was improved when our power company ran new poles, 1 high tension line, and new transformers. It's now much more stable.

[@gerardlochmans589]

Much better coulors ! 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

[@Crusher9mil]

As usual you've come thru with well thought out solution's to problems as they reared their ugly little heads. It's a real shame though that you had to put in so much effort and materials to solve problems the manufacture should have, especially at that cost point.

[@meraydin1]

Hi James, new video definitely looks more vivid. One question: how does a portable AM radio sound like near the lights? I wonder if the light emit RF noise or silent too?

[@garrett9186]

It does look like you have more natural skin tones with the new lights. It does look good.

[@g.tucker8682]

Attention to detail as always! Would you mind mentioning how many days were invested in this (not counting sittin-around-waiting time)?

[@meanman6992]

Single layer thick white is what I went with in PLA for a bathroom light fixture…

[@invertedpolarity6890]

I would think if you painted the ceiling and wall white, it would make the light even more diffuse and brighter your shop. Not an easy task but it would definitely look great.

[@Hossimo]

Haha that's so funny, before watching the whole video I pulled out my Lee and Rosco books to get you a number, lucky I watched the whole thing before sending. Probably a heavier frost flat might have been faster but don't know if that would have given you the right look. Good work though. Definitely don't work over head though. Save your arms 💪

[@White000Crow]

I can see that flicker with my eyes and it drives me nuts!

[@Myrulv]

Perfect as always, but was the crease neccessary? You could possibly have cut the strips narrower, and mounted them without a crease?

[@joeanon1415]

Broken LED TV's at the dump are a good source for quality diffusion materials for cheap. Perhaps you could use a usb endoscope camera to inspect those led drivers without too much hassle.

[@johnalexander2349]

That was actually less complicated than I was expecting... The rabbit hole I'm peering down involves Bridgelux Thrive LED strips (thankfully, they make strips, so there's no PCB design needed), Meanwell HLG drivers, fabricated aluminium extrusions, and Plexiglass Softlight diffusers.

[@aaro_n]

Seeing your access point. Do you do anything special for your home network?

[@edishergiorgadze4413]

Definitely better! well done.

[@EZ_shop]

Much better, James. Ciao, Marco.

[@nophead]

You look younger with the new lights!

[@EyeMWing]

On the power fail, I had a print with *two* power failures (hooray semi-rural locations) on the Bambu X1C, and it did just as well, with exactly the same artifact. Very weird.

[@josephbasanta]

James, should you also have painted the ceiling in the shop, it is a bit dingy, wouldn't have it given more light?

[@lightaces]

As a former professional in lighting, including too much video lighting, yeah, it looks much better. The old one is washed out. Now, that could be any number of things, but definitely looks better.

[@RambozoClown]

It does look a lot better, but it was a lot of work. I probably would have taken the lazy way out and just built a nice stable DC supply to run the lighting circuits on. Most LED drivers have a bridge rectifier as the first thing, so they will run on DC or AC just fine with no mods.

[@KolyaNadj]

On my Koorui 27E3QK monitor I can see the difference. You're skin does look more pale with the old LEDs.

[@BretBerger]

Awesome but I'll be up all night wondering why you didn't use drywall anchors.