just try my luck see if anyone can help me with my problem: copied the setup with a 12v relay, rolled the coil as 15mm diameter for 308 brass. However it took nealy 40 sec to heat a Lapua brass up to glowing status. Can anyone help me with why this is happening please? Thanks!

Excellent. I wondered about doing something similar. Maybe with a 110ac timer relay.

Adrian Pimento? Good shot! :)

Hey Man…what type of press are you using? Did it start one way and has Ben Frankenstein’d into its current configuration?

Thank you, I have made the system you have, it works great. Do you have a 3d file to share for the fan mounting you installed?

Awsome vid especially with the timer. Never know had such thing.

target(s) sizes(s)?

Kenny G hasn’t hit ya with copyright infringement??😂

You sir are a genius. 👍

It was tricky moving the decimal point on the the timer, but i figured it out, cept forgot how i did it

if we cut some length of coil nothing bad happen?

I first attended training at NE TX tactical about 2 years ago. At the time, it was the second long range shooting class I attended to qualify for range access to a long-range shooting property. While it is usually possible to qualify for access to many long-range facilities by simply shooting targets out to a specified distance within so many rounds as is also the case with NE Tactical, I'm the kind of person who enjoys learning new information when it comes to long range shooting, so I enjoy attending classes when they are offered. After all, there is only so much you can learn off KZbin. When it comes to classes that I've attended involving long range shooting, Adam Morgan was the best instructor I've had. His background and military experience makes him uniquely qualified to discuss the subject matter. Class presentation media was professionally generated, logically organized, and very informative. Ballistic apps like "Applied Ballistics" (or a Kestrel) are essential long-range tools and required for use on this range so it would be a good idea to purchase at least the app ahead of time and look it over. I was already familiar with several of the ballistic apps covered in the classroom presentation (use a Kestrel Elite myself). So much of that info. was repeat information. However, Adam's wind holdover content, in addition to his section on the importance of "Standard Deviation" in reloads (or factory ammo) was excellent. A discussion on Ballistic Coefficients (ratings and actual bullet performance) was also very interesting. On the range, Adam ran a tight ship. All shooters were provided with a "Labradar" chronograph set next to their shooting position for monitoring of their bullet velocities and SD for the day's shooting. I wasn't expecting that, but it was a nice touch. I appreciated the fact I didn't have to break out the "Magneto" I brought with me (the Garmin Xero didn't exist back then). I was impressed by Adam's ability to assist clients with wind holdover values whether they be MOA or MIL when calling out impacts. With 6 shooters using both, Adam was able to call wind hold values at multiple ranges using both MOA and MIL using spotting scopes that supported both. The day's shooting activities went very quickly as evidenced by a really hot barrel on my .270 (modified hunting rifle used as my first long range gun) at the end of the day. My previous long shots had been at 800 yards. Got out to 1400 yards but walked shots all around the 1500 with no hits. By the time I got to 1400 yards the day of training my barrel was hot and the importance of "Standard Deviation" in reloads was becoming a reality. With a double-digit SD I never got hits on 1500. Plan to correct that next time I'm out to the range. As N.E. Tactical's online Gallery photos will suggest, the classroom facility, storage facility, and top-level shooting floor are large shipping containers. The classroom is wide enough to sit two students side-by-side provided the clients themselves aren't too wide. Good news is it's air-conditioned and it worked well for our class when max temp was around 90°. A secured company store is also part of the classroom and allows clients to purchase a variety of items ranging from ammo and bipods to company monogramed squeeze bags. For those traveling and staying the night before shooting, the range is only 10 minutes from Terrell's main hotel area. Several major restaurants and burger joints are all close by. A large combination movie theater/bowling alley/restaurant complex is also across the street from the hotels in the strip mall area. The usual array of restaurants is also available in addition to a Buc-ee's for refueling etc. The "Tru" hotel was adequate sleeping accommodations for my stay, but the free breakfast wasn't worth the "Free". Will try another hotel next time I'm in town. I returned to the range a week later and was able to join the "One Mile Club" hitting the outside ring on the one mile target multiple times and the center plate on my final shot of the day. Seeing the flashing lights on the target light up following each hit made the trip to Terrell even more enjoyable. A year later I purchased a new 6.5 Creedmoor and was able to get a one mile cold-bore shot on target as well. Adam provides shooters who accomplish these shots with a souvenir dog tag indicating a "One Mile Club" or "Cold Bore One Mile club". Nice touch and great marketing idea. Having attended numerous classes on a variety of subjects I can honestly say Adam's course was well worth the money. I look forward going back soon for a private 4 hour lesson that Adam offers during the week. SUPER RANGE! Great layout. Highly recommended!!!!!

My timer never loops even though I am in P05 and loop count is 99. Also my timer never displays “out” like shown in the video. What am I doing wrong?

Thanks for posting this option. I have listed my set up on E-Bay.

You could sell those add-on coolers if you decide to. I would buy one.

I’m far too dumb to build this lol. By chance do you put these together for people?

I'm sure I'm missing something but am I correct that the white wire from the extension cord does not get hooked to the module? The white wire does not get cut.

2 quick questions: what temp were you shooting for to be annealed? Where did you find the brass glow color chart? I’ve looked but can’t find one.

Why do we only anneal the neck and not the whole case?

Mate you’re a freaking legend.

The coils you use have to be within the heaters resonance frequency. Personally, I’d use a multimeter to measure the inductance and make sure your homemade coil are close to it. Otherwise, I think you’re going to find the mosfet burn out.

You actually CAN touch the case as long as you have that white fiberglass sleeve on the wire, As a matter of fact you can get them done faster if you use the sleeve as the thing that keeps the gap consistant. Its as close to the wire as you can get without touching it.,

ZzBE AWARE --- I BOUGHT THIS KIND OF ANNEAL DEVICE TO USE IN MY SHOP (VERY EX"ITED ) FIRST PAGE DO NOT USE IF YOU HAVE A PACEMAKER OR OTHER ELECTRONIC INPLANT . So much for my excitement !!!

I found this video last Summer when I was searching for an effective, yet affordable, way to anneal my brass. Watch the video, take your time assembling the different components, test it on a few rejects to get the timing and process dialled in and then get started! I decided on a stripped wire with a tight tolerance to reduce the duration of annealing. One of the most useful videos I’ve found on KZbin!

Hello to everyone. I just got mine today but I Can't get it to work with the timer. Mine is the model that once pluged the fan starts going and it does so permanently. I just push the button to anneal. The problem is that the timer wired exactly like in the video doesn't do anything... The fan keeps on going once pluged like there is no timer in between... The timer has no effect on the annealing function or procedure. Any idea?

Tried again with another module and still nothing

Do you sell any of your compleded annealers

I built something similar to this a couple years ago. still bought an AMP . if you are this much into shooting put the $200 towards an AMP.

Fantastic, thank you for sharing!!

Thanks for the video. Leave off the background music next time. It's annoying and makes it hard to hear your voice.

How do u quantify your work?

Just built and works great.

Hello Mr North. Just question for you or others reading. I bought everything and it works AWESOME. However, the induction heater I have works with the fan on all the time even when you don't press the red button. This is good to save the machine as you mentioned. However, when I put it on the timer relay the fan only works when the button is pressed. I think the relay cuts all the power off the heater. Is there a way to adjust the relay so that it still powers the fan ??? Or the work I did with the relay is just a continuous stop watch. PLS HELP!

I have a 0-150vac variac and I'm thinking I can do this very same thing using nichrome resistance wire. I like the timer so will incorporate that into the build. Up till now I just use the variac to make hot wires for cutting foam but have nichrome wire in sizes from .09 guitar string size to 3/16" heater coil. Will let you and all know how it works out.

There is a recipe for an induction heater that costs an order of magnitude less. I just ordered all the parts for about $20. There's an electrical engineer who puts up builds on youtube, and one of his requires two transistors, two capacitors, wire, and a power source. It does require to to put the power in at the middle of the heating coil, but that is how it gets to be cheap. Oh, and it is all naked wiring operating at 600 v, so build at your own risk. I haven't worked out how I am going to cover it up. kzbin.info/www/bejne/eIinlX14odismsU

What size fan to fit on the back of unit? What powers the fan? Have a link to one? Thanks so much for sharing!

I just ordered all this from your links. Nice! Also, I swage my own bullets and should be able to use this to bond lead cores to copper jackets without a high temp oven.

It looks like the brass is getting way to hot

Perhaps I’m just too thrifty, but has anyone considered using a Forstner bit and make a case holder out of wood? Particularly not problematic for large cases like 30-06. It’s just going burn, and if it singes, it’s just no big deal.

Are these M62 tracers?

Thanks for the videos! They helped me build my annealer and just got done with 50 pieces! Have you noticed the base/web of the brass gets pretty hot? This is the fire annealer I’ve ever owned so maybe it’s normal. I did all 50 pieces in very low light so I could make sure I wasn’t over cooking the brass

Well done I'm sold

Just put one of these together. Works great! The fan runs the entire time button pushed or not! Goodbye propane! I used a bullet box as well. Thanks for the vid.

This is a practical setup for as far as it goes. However, just getting the brass red hot for a split second or so, and even checking for the tell-tale change in tint/color on the brass afterward does not mean that the brass is correctly annealed to the correct hardness. You really need to go about testing the timing scientifically, including hardness testing, to determine the correct duration of heat application. Other than that, you've presented a great way to get into annealing inexpensively. Check out this vid by RussDouglass 222. kzbin.info/www/bejne/iXeTiqCjmqp9gZY

Has this annealer withstood the test of time? I have heard that some induction devices break down over time as they have a very low duty cycle and overheat when used repeatedly in a short period of time.

I just concluded an experiment to water cool the coils. I got it working, but the results weren't satisfactory/worth the effort. The problems I ran into include: Cumbersome mess of wires/water tubes, kept the coils cool enough to touch, but didn't keep the hand unit any cooler (my primary purpose for trying this experiment), and finally, the copper tubing (as @NorthEastTexasTactical351 mentioned in the video above) didn't heat up as quickly as the wire by a factor of at least 3x (resulting in the hand unit heating up even more). I ran my unit hotter than I should have in the past and it sparks and pops, but, keeps on going. I wonder if anyone has popped one of these units open to determine whether/how to add a heat sink and possibly a fan to cool it. Finally, I think using an air compressor rather than a vacuum would probably cool it off faster due to the cooling effect from decompressing air.

Greetings, I constructed an annealer assembly using your idea with a similar unit but added a couple of convenience refinements. In lieu of using the push button all the time I installed a 3.5mm phono jack and plug. The jack receptacle is installed at the rear of the annealer and wired in parallel and soldered to the push button pins. The male plug is wired to the dry contacts of the timer so that when the dry contacts of the timer close it acts the same as pushing the button thus turning on the annealer. This allows the annealer to be used for other purposes and not dedicated to servicing brass. An on/off toggle switch was also installed on the cover of the timer case and wired in series with the “hot” conductor of the power cord so the timer can be turned off and on rather than having to unplug the timer from the power strip each time. The annealing unit came wired so the fan stays on all the time. On other units where the fan only comes on when the button is pushed the fan can be rewired to the annealer input power wires so that the fan stays on all the time. I have not had the annealer overheat as yet even when annealing a couple of hundred cases at a time. I found that using #10 AWG solid wire took too long to heat up and cool down. I made some coils with #12 AWG solid wire and they seem to work better, reducing heating and cooling times. All in all everything works quite well and I believe is much safer than the propane torch or hot lead immersion methods. Good luck.

FORGET all bullshit ,,,,for 89 bucks more you can have a real machine

I load….and I have this tool….. why have I not thought of this!

Nicely done on both videos. I really like the "feedback" (follow up video after a long period of use, seating force demonstration, etc.). Thank you.