Fantastic, thank you for sharing!!

Thanks for the video. Leave off the background music next time. It's annoying and makes it hard to hear your voice.

How do u quantify your work?

Just built and works great.

Hello Mr North. Just question for you or others reading. I bought everything and it works AWESOME. However, the induction heater I have works with the fan on all the time even when you don't press the red button. This is good to save the machine as you mentioned. However, when I put it on the timer relay the fan only works when the button is pressed. I think the relay cuts all the power off the heater. Is there a way to adjust the relay so that it still powers the fan ??? Or the work I did with the relay is just a continuous stop watch. PLS HELP!

I have a 0-150vac variac and I'm thinking I can do this very same thing using nichrome resistance wire. I like the timer so will incorporate that into the build. Up till now I just use the variac to make hot wires for cutting foam but have nichrome wire in sizes from .09 guitar string size to 3/16" heater coil. Will let you and all know how it works out.

There is a recipe for an induction heater that costs an order of magnitude less. I just ordered all the parts for about $20. There's an electrical engineer who puts up builds on youtube, and one of his requires two transistors, two capacitors, wire, and a power source. It does require to to put the power in at the middle of the heating coil, but that is how it gets to be cheap. Oh, and it is all naked wiring operating at 600 v, so build at your own risk. I haven't worked out how I am going to cover it up. kzbin.info/www/bejne/eIinlX14odismsU

What size fan to fit on the back of unit? What powers the fan? Have a link to one? Thanks so much for sharing!

I just ordered all this from your links. Nice! Also, I swage my own bullets and should be able to use this to bond lead cores to copper jackets without a high temp oven.

It looks like the brass is getting way to hot

Perhaps I’m just too thrifty, but has anyone considered using a Forstner bit and make a case holder out of wood? Particularly not problematic for large cases like 30-06. It’s just going burn, and if it singes, it’s just no big deal.

Are these M62 tracers?

Thanks for the videos! They helped me build my annealer and just got done with 50 pieces! Have you noticed the base/web of the brass gets pretty hot? This is the fire annealer I’ve ever owned so maybe it’s normal. I did all 50 pieces in very low light so I could make sure I wasn’t over cooking the brass

Well done I'm sold

Just put one of these together. Works great! The fan runs the entire time button pushed or not! Goodbye propane! I used a bullet box as well. Thanks for the vid.

This is a practical setup for as far as it goes. However, just getting the brass red hot for a split second or so, and even checking for the tell-tale change in tint/color on the brass afterward does not mean that the brass is correctly annealed to the correct hardness. You really need to go about testing the timing scientifically, including hardness testing, to determine the correct duration of heat application. Other than that, you've presented a great way to get into annealing inexpensively. Check out this vid by RussDouglass 222. kzbin.info/www/bejne/iXeTiqCjmqp9gZY

Has this annealer withstood the test of time? I have heard that some induction devices break down over time as they have a very low duty cycle and overheat when used repeatedly in a short period of time.

I just concluded an experiment to water cool the coils. I got it working, but the results weren't satisfactory/worth the effort. The problems I ran into include: Cumbersome mess of wires/water tubes, kept the coils cool enough to touch, but didn't keep the hand unit any cooler (my primary purpose for trying this experiment), and finally, the copper tubing (as @NorthEastTexasTactical351 mentioned in the video above) didn't heat up as quickly as the wire by a factor of at least 3x (resulting in the hand unit heating up even more). I ran my unit hotter than I should have in the past and it sparks and pops, but, keeps on going. I wonder if anyone has popped one of these units open to determine whether/how to add a heat sink and possibly a fan to cool it. Finally, I think using an air compressor rather than a vacuum would probably cool it off faster due to the cooling effect from decompressing air.

Greetings, I constructed an annealer assembly using your idea with a similar unit but added a couple of convenience refinements. In lieu of using the push button all the time I installed a 3.5mm phono jack and plug. The jack receptacle is installed at the rear of the annealer and wired in parallel and soldered to the push button pins. The male plug is wired to the dry contacts of the timer so that when the dry contacts of the timer close it acts the same as pushing the button thus turning on the annealer. This allows the annealer to be used for other purposes and not dedicated to servicing brass. An on/off toggle switch was also installed on the cover of the timer case and wired in series with the “hot” conductor of the power cord so the timer can be turned off and on rather than having to unplug the timer from the power strip each time. The annealing unit came wired so the fan stays on all the time. On other units where the fan only comes on when the button is pushed the fan can be rewired to the annealer input power wires so that the fan stays on all the time. I have not had the annealer overheat as yet even when annealing a couple of hundred cases at a time. I found that using #10 AWG solid wire took too long to heat up and cool down. I made some coils with #12 AWG solid wire and they seem to work better, reducing heating and cooling times. All in all everything works quite well and I believe is much safer than the propane torch or hot lead immersion methods. Good luck.

FORGET all bullshit ,,,,for 89 bucks more you can have a real machine

I load….and I have this tool….. why have I not thought of this!

Nicely done on both videos. I really like the "feedback" (follow up video after a long period of use, seating force demonstration, etc.). Thank you.

Thank you, Sir, for knowledge sharing! It save me a lot of money! Greetings from Ukraine! God bless America! Thank you and your nation for supporting us! Stay safe and small groups!❤

Copied you only the module isn't turning in 😩

There seems to be parts missing on the electrical?? You didn't show at all how you wired the DC side of things. The video just forwards to where all of that was already done without showing the adapter you have there or the wiring. Can you expand on that part that you for whatever reason left out of the video?

Outstanding. Works just like you say. I set mine up next to a single stage LEE Challenger and changed out the switch for the inductor so that I don't have to hold the button down. Control is through the relay with a locking on/off on the inductor. I raise the brass into the inductor coil and use a longer gap between cycles to give me time to swap the cases in the shell holder. I'm using it to anneal 24ga Magtec shotgun brass to form .577/450 Martini-Henry cases. Once I got the time dialed in I haven't ruined a case since, forming in 3 steps and annealing between each step. I'm not doing hundreds of cases (generally a box of 25), so the longer time isn't a big deal and the fan keeps up with the temperature well.

So how do you know when the case has been sufficiently annealed ?

Yes the AC wire diagram for the timer is wrong. It was drawn as if it was DC except they put the (+) on the wrong side of the load. To make it work you would splice an additional piece of wire into the cord's white(neutral), which would go to the timer's GND terminal. Then cut the black(hot) wire; split the male plug side into two wires, and connect one to VCC and one to S1. Finally, connect the black wire on the female plug side to SO. Leave the green wire uncut. This applies to the device in your first link.

Wow you check comments fast. I deleted my comment and reposted it because I hate when it says 'edited'. Anyway I'll post it again... Keeps disappearing now, not sure if it's you or YT. Oh well.

INduct-ref

Thank you so much! I am going to make one from basic components for my senior project for my EE degree. Glad to see people are doing this already. As a student I can never afford any nice reloading equipment and have had it in my mind to make this to save money for other things.

Place the hand held induction heater on a drill(Hand drill) press stand to lower and raise to a set height, use a foot pedal/swich to start heater, place a U shaped aluminum channel as guide and drill case sized holes in a strip of wood or aluminum that will run in the guide under the heater coil, place water bucked under the end of guide so cases drop through hole. About the same as cartridge press, One hand to run the handle and the other to place the cases. Nock youself out if you want to automate. Same foot activated swich for a raise and lower hidraulic/pneumatic/electrical press stand

Excellent information!! Thank you. 🐕

First of all thanks so much for doing this video. I was dreading to spend thousands on an AMP annealer. 2nd congratulations on a brilliant idea if you came up with it yourself . . Genius! Plus it's faster for a fraction of the cost. 3rd well done on your video. Your style is excellent 👌 brilliant directing, videography, informative, concise, complete, clear and to the point and no BS. Keep up the great work and I look forward to seeing other great ideas you might have. Joe

Brilliant sir! Thank you so much for this!

After returning three "made in China" units, I built mine from a "Bolt Buster" (made in USA), and it works great! It is more expensive, but you get what you pay for, and I have had zero issues. Thank you for these videos and the idea. It anneals my brass beautifully!

Seeing your video I built my own and it works just like it should. Great work, appreciate the help with the build and this video with the "tips" was a good idea. Keep'em in the 10 ring.

Excellent follow up video!

Remonds me of the old days when I was making my own coils for my "Cherry Bomb" Ecig

What amp controller is that. Amazon has two of them. A 10A and a 30A.

studio.kzbin.info/door/TA7XGTBn0Hw5m7jUWtSV_gvideos/upload?filter=%5B%5D&sort=%7B%22columnType%22%3A%22date%22%2C%22sortOrder%22%3A%22DESCENDING%22%7D

Should have cases etc in water so heat doesn't get to case head

I love this. Thank you.

Great idea and great video! I hope you make money from us using the links to buy. -Cheers! UPDATE: Note that some brass heats up MUCH faster than others. I thought something was wrong with my unit, until I tried another brand of cartridge and bam! It heated up just like the video. Slow heating is not a bad thing - it give you finer control over the result. Also, don't forget to cut the coil wire as short as possible, like in the video - it helps a lot.

Don’t catch your trailer on fire!

Tony!

That spark that shoots out at the start... something is wrong :D

Any chance you could share that 3d print file and blower you used?

Making sure I understand your wiring. You cut the extension cord so that hot wore is cut in two, but leave the ground and neutral? The cord is plugged into the wall, and the hot wire goes to the relay. The relay outputs the hot wire to the end of the extension cable, in which the heater is plugged in to. The relay itself is powered by an ac/DC power supply. Is that correct?

Lowes has 6AWG wire. 😂 don't get that for the thickest wire.