DIY Annealer for under $200 Part 2- Tips and Tricks

[@drivenaf2492]

This set up is dialed! The red button is a two wire switch and can be removed with very little effort by splitting the unit about half way apart and sliding it out of its place In between the two half's. The unit can then be screwed back together like it was. The two wires on the red switch can then be wired into the timer box and the units fans can remain on and cool the unit as intended. This configuration allows you to anneal large lots of brass with out over heating. Either way this is as consistent and cost effective as it gets! Great work!

[@KnowThyZomB]

got an image or video anywhere? like only thing going into the timer is the red button wires?

[@johnkennedy9189]

Beat me to it. Mine just landed and that was my initial thought as well. Would be REALLY neat if there was room inside the unit to cut in or maybe strap on the timer board right to the unit. Have to watch the light to know when the induction is active though rather than the audible fan.

[@chadshriver2952]

@johnkennedy9189 Thats exactly what I did to mine. Kept the red button so I can use it or the timer just tapped into its wires and also tapped into 120v inside unit to run timer then strapped timer to case with the wires coming through case under timer.

[@LatigoRanch]

After returning three "made in China" units, I built mine from a "Bolt Buster" (made in USA), and it works great! It is more expensive, but you get what you pay for, and I have had zero issues. Thank you for these videos and the idea. It anneals my brass beautifully!

[@joeleveque8188]

First of all thanks so much for doing this video. I was dreading to spend thousands on an AMP annealer. 2nd congratulations on a brilliant idea if you came up with it yourself . . Genius! Plus it's faster for a fraction of the cost. 3rd well done on your video. Your style is excellent 👌 brilliant directing, videography, informative, concise, complete, clear and to the point and no BS. Keep up the great work and I look forward to seeing other great ideas you might have. Joe

[@garymanley6264]

Just wanted to add a couple of tips from my own experience. The fan turns on when the annealer is triggered.by the timer. When you are finished you need to plug the annealer into an outlet and the fan will run automatically. ( if you plug the annealer directly into an outlet the fan will come on without pushing the button) This will help prolong life and vacate the heat inside. Also, if you use 12ga wire, cut 2 extra pieces about 11/4 inch long and insert them along side the coil wires before tightening the knobs. 12ga wire in not large enough to allow the coil wire to get tightened down and make good contact with the hand screw. which may be why some think the annealer is defective. Hope this helps my fellow re loaders.

[@donmarshall4888]

There is so much bull pucks out there on annealing, over or under annealing and what have you. I have constructed a twin to this unit and while it takes a bit to sort out what works/doesn’t work, it’s pretty simple. One thing I discovered was in sorting out timing of “hot” on the unit is to use crappy, aka, split cases to set the time. Mine is down to 2.4 seconds to anneal and 3 to switch to the next case. Everyone is going to have a different time based on how tight their coil is, type of brass and so forth. Variables exist. As someone online said, “it’s not rocket science”. Figure out where the sweet spot is and go for it. You figure it out pretty quickly on what to do. I appreciate this video a great deal. Only thing I wasn’t crazy about was the 21st Century bullet seater part. It’s great but dang, they ain’t cheap!

[@grassroots9304]

Nicely done on both videos. I really like the "feedback" (follow up video after a long period of use, seating force demonstration, etc.). Thank you.

[@leonardogarcia2506]

I feel like I need to say thank you! Thank you for the videos and all the attention to detail and time you put into explaining what you did, how you done it and things you’ve learned. I watched both of these videos over a dozen times as I’m very ignorant when it comes to anything electrical. Long story short, I did exactly as you done and the setup work’s amazing!

[@karlsailor]

I set mine up after watching your first video. Works great! I need to tighten up my coils like you suggest. I used the 120VAC timer to save some hassle. I also mounted my annealer to a board, then drilled a hole under the coil. A simple sliding door under the hole allows the annealed case to drop into a metal basket. Lastly, instead of using the female plug from the extension cord, I used an extra outlet box and gfci outlet to plug in the annealer and fan (the fan side isn't switched).

[@donmarshall4888]

Mine is a twin to this, up and running. Still tweaking the coil size a bit for the PRC case but need to check on the time better on next go round. Nothing against AMP machine, they’re pretty slick but for we po folks, this is a slick way to go. I think it’s far safer than having an open flame anytime. I will say the biggest issue I had was getting the danged wires from the extension cord into the tiny holes on the relay switch. Solved by soldering in a solid copper wire to them. Kudo’s for a good design and troubleshooting video.

[@greatwhitenorth762]

Sooo, i'm one of the guys who was a bit slow on the uptake and couldn't follow your wiring method in your first video. Thanks muchly for clarifying it here in this one. :) And also thanks for the additional tips and tricks...excellent info. As for the results; dude...wow! That's some really impressive shooting! Well done! And the hydro-press numbers were phenomenal. Amazing consistency and it sure showed on the range. Super video!

[@mobeus5019]

Id just like to comment on the casual humblebrag showoff with 223 cold bore at a mile. What a shot.

[@chuckbobuck1302]

Great video series and excellent tips. I set up mine by mounting the annealer to a large ammo can. Put a case holder (section of copper pipe with pull solenoid at bottom) under coils. Hid all the wiring inside ammo can. Once a case is annealed I push a button and the case drops into a metal tray. Thanks for the tips, I need to set up better coils and cooling.

[@lukekrawietz9322]

@chuckbobuck1302 : Love this modification you described... especially the solenoid operated drop function so you can just keep feeding a new case in by hand instead of handling the heater itself. Any chance you can post a link to the solenoid you used and notes about how you powered it?

[@jimh3588]

Link to the fan please. Would you consider printing and selling the fan to annealer adapter?

[@longrangelauber]

Just watched your first video and saw you had an update you put out a couple weeks ago. Looking forward to grabbing all the parts to build one of these. Getting the coils the proper diameter was my biggest concern but once you covered that in this video regarding using sockets, I feel pretty comfortable doing this. I think I'm going to go with the AC style relay delay module to eliminate that extra plug and wire. The PC case fan seems like a good idea, just need to get my hands on a 3D printer to make a shroud similar to the one you have. Can't wait to see how it performs (seems like hundreds of people are happy with the performance so far!) Awesome videos, keep it up!

[@viper8049]

Seeing your video I built my own and it works just like it should. Great work, appreciate the help with the build and this video with the "tips" was a good idea. Keep'em in the 10 ring.

[@mikeortho1]

Thanks so much for the update. You covered every question I had. BTW, I couldn’t get it to work without the DC transformer either. Mike

[@ceytoy13]

Thank you, Sir, for knowledge sharing! It save me a lot of money! Greetings from Ukraine! God bless America! Thank you and your nation for supporting us! Stay safe and small groups!❤

[@northeasttexastactical375]

Yes sir, y'all give em' hell out there.

[@SharmanshikKarlo]

Слава Україні! Nice to see you here brother!

[@ceytoy13]

🇺🇦🤝🇺🇸@@SharmanshikKarlo

[@rload4374]

Great vid! Are you willing to share your 3D file? I want to add a bigger fan and also not willing to glue a fan at the back of the unit.

[@blaqkpanda]

any interest in 3d printing computer fan adapters?

[@blaqkpanda]

have cash will pay

[@arnoldmoos1791]

I would be interested in the adaptor and where to get the fan

[@Gman-lf5bh]

I use a little water in the plastic loading tray to avoid melting.

[@j.muckafignotti4226]

That black carbony looking stuff is cupric oxide. It is an oxidation of the copper due to the high heat and 02 absorption.

[@WaderHunts]

Great update and great shooting!

[@firstthes2811]

I'm still using my annealeez which I like if not for burning wheels that I believe is now fixed. Lol. But I know I'll move in this direction at some point so I really appreciate you sharing all you've done here. Thanks.

[@CrustyOldMarine]

Nope, burning the lower wheel still happens far too easily. I got my Annealeez a couple months back and have done several hundred cases, always happens with some of them and, I'm building THIS ONE!!!

[@firstthes2811]

@@CrustyOldMarine Yep, I have to agree. Even with the washers to protect the wheels I ended up burning the lower wheel doing 6 DASHER since my previous post. I didn't even realize what was going on and now I've got a bunch of cases with melted wheel on them that I have to try and clean up. Imo, the machine cannot do short cases without having to stop after approximately 25-30 and letting the wheel cool down. I think it's fine with 223 and larger cases but the ones just give it fits.

[@CrustyOldMarine]

@@firstthes2811 Yep, and clean-up of the melted wheel goo off the case IS A BITCH!!! Ask me how I know...lol. Can't wait to get this DIY Induction Annealer built (ordering parts today). I think it's going to be much quicker and much more consistent.

[@A-a-ron480]

Well done I'm sold

[@jrb1263]

What size fan to fit on the back of unit? What powers the fan? Have a link to one? Thanks so much for sharing!

[@69mwhite]

Wow , awesome instructions video

[@johngalt176]

Excellent follow up video!

[@beartownful]

Great video, thanks for the update and tips. Would you be able share the print file for the blower adapter as well as the fan you used?

[@algreen5559]

Idea for creating the coils. What about using a bolt to create them? This would allow the spacing between the coils to remain consistant. Maybe over kill but just a thought. Looking forward to making one of these myself. Thanks for sharing this as well as the detail you go into.

[@__MAT__]

Damn, this is excellent!

[@bigchungus1292]

Just ordered all the stuff , ive been having a hard time with neck tension and am looking forward to getting into annealing

[@lelenbates3367]

I have the timer and annealer on order. I am going to add a second plug that is wired in series with the push button switch and use the timer to activate the push button which will leave the stock fan running the whole time. Ideally the push button will be low voltage to the motherboard but I don't know until I take it apart. Thanks for the idea. I also plan to make an aluminum fixture to hold the brass upside down in the coil like the Amp unit does. With a 6-8 second delay between cases it should keep it cool and allow me time to place and remove the brass at leisure, though I am sure that number will be adjusted.

[@joekruchowski6203]

You could sell those add-on coolers if you decide to. I would buy one.

[@lookingfortacos7882]

Thank you, I have made the system you have, it works great. Do you have a 3d file to share for the fan mounting you installed?

[@northeasttexastactical375]

@@lookingfortacos7882 I don't, I would just recommend buying the right size fan lol

[@tyler6147]

Thanks for the video! If you want to see how I have mine wired up without using an extra power supply let me know.

[@jimm0802]

I would like to know

[@jrb1263]

Would love to see

[@HumbleDishwasher]

Hi Tyler, i would also like to see this! I am trying to just use 1 extension cord

[@rayman1366]

if we cut some length of coil nothing bad happen?

[@simonharris4801]

Should have cases etc in water so heat doesn't get to case head

[@Chuck_Carolina]

The common and ground are always connected at any AC switch you install: Whoa! The crust on the coil is oxidation - keeping it clean between use with Denatured Alcohol and a brass brush will probably work good for what your doing. I kind'a like it for what I plan on reloading again.

[@King-of_Katos]

I just ordered all this from your links. Nice! Also, I swage my own bullets and should be able to use this to bond lead cores to copper jackets without a high temp oven.

[@northeasttexastactical375]

That's a pretty sweet dual purpose!! NICE!!

[@epippins]

Remonds me of the old days when I was making my own coils for my "Cherry Bomb" Ecig

[@TheSuburban15]

Have you uploaded the CAD and STL files for the fan shroud somewhere?

[@northeasttexastactical375]

I haven't, only because the fan was just the wrong size. If I would have got the right size I would have just screwed or glued it directly to the back.

[@j.muckafignotti4226]

No, we want the .STL files.

[@timothyrichburg7331]

Thanks for these videos

[@Hunter4Life.]

Great work sir! Thank you for sharing! So question: how many times can you anneal a piece of brass before the brass “breaks down”? Does it lesson the life of the brass? Thank you

[@northeasttexastactical375]

The annealed part of the case isn't what goes first on my rounds anyways. My printer pockets tell me when my brass is too far gone. Annealing extends the life of the brass by allowing the neck to be resized more times without cracking it. Without annealing, I think I was getting maybe 4 reloads before the neck was just too brittle from all the work hardening and cracking.

[@Hunter4Life.]

@@northeasttexastactical375 Thank you again sir. I have yet to hear anyone mention case life from annealing. I’m still new to hand loading. It makes sense primer pockets stretch before case necks “dry up?” From annealing. I’ll be selling my torch annealer to build this model. Excellent coverage of this type of machine. Well done!

Just great, I'll do it like yours, not expansive and great tool ;) Thanks for your two videos

[@KennethTodd-wg7fn]

I wired mine up just like yours and It never came on. I had a drill plugged in and started revving it up and blew the bottom off the timer. A small barrel looking thing setting in the corner on the inside exploded with silver cardboard was everywhere. I had to order another one of the same and a different one. Maybe one will work.

[@TexasTrained]

I would have liked to build one but it looked like it was abit for my simpole mind..LOL So I decided money wasnt that big of a deal and bought the Amp annealer. You have a cool set up and pretty slick.

[@charlesirby9222]

Sure glad I joined your channel, this is some great information. That last test round that wouldn't seat with 100 pounds of force...I have a question about. Was the case sized when you annealed & then loaded the projectile and it loaded with about 38 pounds of force? Another question about your other cases. Are you annealing before sizing the cases or what exactly is your method? Or...just link me to a video where you discuss that, this is the first video where I had this question. Thank You...charlie...😎 ...👍 # 11

[@northeasttexastactical375]

Glad the video helped you. The case was sized only when it wouldn't seat. Then I annealed it, but I can't remember if I resized it again after that or not. I rarely clean my brass, but if I do, I'll do it first, then immediately anneal, before resizing, trimming, etc.

[@charlesirby9222]

@@northeasttexastactical375 Thanks, I appreciate the answer, I am new to annealing by machine, always used the old'skool socket & torch. I finally built an annealer, was a fun project too...now I am actually trying to get to the bottom of the temps we should use & time in flame. If your interested in my DIY annealer, here's a link. kzbin.info/www/bejne/o3Wkh2Z9lNyLa7c

[@donmarshall4888]

Is there a photo or video showing the whole length of wiring used for connecting things up?

[@daig54]

What's the set up you're using on bullet seating on you're brass!? I like that!

[@northeasttexastactical375]

21st Century Hydro Bullet Seater

[@valq661]

Great tips!👍

[@RS11199]

Thanks for the videos! They helped me build my annealer and just got done with 50 pieces! Have you noticed the base/web of the brass gets pretty hot? This is the fire annealer I’ve ever owned so maybe it’s normal. I did all 50 pieces in very low light so I could make sure I wasn’t over cooking the brass

[@northeasttexastactical375]

The base can get hot depending on the anneal time. That's how the bottom of my reloading trays got permanently head stamped by a 260 rem.

[@RS11199]

@@northeasttexastactical375 any concerns with effecting the structural integrity of the base/web? Just thinking along the lines of case/head separation which I highly doubt but just thinking/asking Im at 1.5-1.8 seconds depending on the brass manufacture

[@northeasttexastactical375]

It just super heats the brass inside the coil, I haven't seen any issues with the residual heat. Literally never had a neck crack or case head separate.

[@RS11199]

@@northeasttexastactical375 one other question, I shot some once fired Peterson brass (from my rifle) that I annealed using your setup and the ES was not good +- 50fps. I didn’t change anything from a reloading standpoint other than annealing. Doing some reading I’m finding that annealing the brass can make the neck and bullet “sticky” and show up in your ES. Your SD and ES and seating tests prove it works for you but I’m wondering if I need to lube (imperial dry lube) the inside of the necks before seating a bullet?

[@northeasttexastactical375]

Absolutely need to get a hold of your neck tension. Annealing alone isn't going to fix your SDs. Chamfer, lube, mandrel...

[@Accuracy1st]

Just a guess but over time can you just put a coil in an ultrasonic cleaner as needed to clean them up?

[@1340MB]

I've watched both videos. Great job. I'm just not clear on one thing. The extension cord that powers the timer/heater and the DC power supply both need to be plugged into the wall socket? Thanks.

[@northeasttexastactical375]

Yes, 2 plugs. One is the end of the extension cord, the other is the 12v DC power supply for the timer

[@BZE_Fishin]

Hey Man…what type of press are you using? Did it start one way and has Ben Frankenstein’d into its current configuration?

[@northeasttexastactical375]

@@BZE_Fishin that's a 21st Century Reloading Hydro-press

[@JimWooddell]

I added a larger 12v relay to handle switching the 120v circuit. So, there is not any AC voltage on the little relay in the timing unit.

[@carfvallrightsreservedwith6649]

12V relay upgrade info requested here.

[@JimWooddell]

@@carfvallrightsreservedwith6649 it is just an automotive relay in line with the small relay in the timer. IOWs, the small relay drives the larger relay.

[@jeffallen3382]

Have you had any problems with these Chinese made induction heaters themselves? Some of the reviews sound like it's a sketchy product? Live the idea of making this work; thanks for putting this together!

[@northeasttexastactical375]

I'm still using the original one I bought, I haven't heard of anyone's breaking yet

[@jeffallen3382]

@@northeasttexastactical375 thanks, just saw a few of fhe reviews talking about it.

[@mobeus5019]

Any chance you could share that 3d print file and blower you used?

[@rudolphferdinand3634]

If I would seen this video; I more than likely gone the recoil way for annealing my brass cases. I want something that is simple and easy; the EP Integrations annealer fits right for me.

[@sniper7810]

Hello to everyone. I just got mine today but I Can't get it to work with the timer. Mine is the model that once pluged the fan starts going and it does so permanently. I just push the button to anneal. The problem is that the timer wired exactly like in the video doesn't do anything... The fan keeps on going once pluged like there is no timer in between... The timer has no effect on the annealing function or procedure. Any idea?

[@georgemckee3275]

Do you sell any of your compleded annealers

[@en2oh]

The coils you use have to be within the heaters resonance frequency. Personally, I’d use a multimeter to measure the inductance and make sure your homemade coil are close to it. Otherwise, I think you’re going to find the mosfet burn out.

[@northeasttexastactical375]

@@en2oh thats a bit beyond my experience level. Sounds pretty cool for those who know how to do that though.

[@UteFan925]

I’m far too dumb to build this lol. By chance do you put these together for people?

[@seanbaumer6039]

Are the heating coils simply copper wire and not a heating element?

[@northeasttexastactical375]

Yes, just copper wire.

[@randallgibson3212]

How has the inductor held up? A guy told me he built one and it degrades pretty quick . I’m guessing he overheated it too many times. I just built one and now I’m wondering how to rig up a small fan to the back like you did but I don’t have a 3D printer.

[@northeasttexastactical375]

I'm still using the original one I built with no issues.

[@Drakehilt]

Do you just wrap the coils around the sockets by hand?

[@northeasttexastactical375]

Yes sir

[@Drakehilt]

@North East Texas Tactical sweet. I'll be starting on my first handloads using the annealer once I cam get around enough to do it myself. I just had surgery so I'm a bit limited

[@henrychavez3852]

Thanks for the video! Super helpful and easy to understand. It’s been a while since you posted this video but I do have a question. I’m working with 270wsm Norma brass and I’m at 4 seconds w 12 gauge wire and 6 pretty tight coils to avoid getting down too close to the bottom of the case. Does this seem like an ok time? 270 win cases are going off at 2.1 sec. Which seems reasonable to me. Thanks again.

[@northeasttexastactical375]

I would think that time should be cut in half. Maybe more coils...

[@henrychavez3852]

Thanks , I’ll see what I can come up with. Thanks for getting back

[@briansteiner2116]

Would love to print the fan adaptor, do you have the file shared anywhere? I have the version that blows from back to front.

[@northeasttexastactical375]

I don't have that file shared on any of the printing sites. It would just be easier to get a smaller fan that fits the back of the unit better. I originally just planned to glue it to the back if it actually fit.

[@andrews5371]

What amp controller is that. Amazon has two of them. A 10A and a 30A.

[@northeasttexastactical375]

I think either one is more than enough. I'm not sure which one I have

[@toddprickett6376]

I just concluded an experiment to water cool the coils. I got it working, but the results weren't satisfactory/worth the effort. The problems I ran into include: Cumbersome mess of wires/water tubes, kept the coils cool enough to touch, but didn't keep the hand unit any cooler (my primary purpose for trying this experiment), and finally, the copper tubing (as @NorthEastTexasTactical351 mentioned in the video above) didn't heat up as quickly as the wire by a factor of at least 3x (resulting in the hand unit heating up even more). I ran my unit hotter than I should have in the past and it sparks and pops, but, keeps on going. I wonder if anyone has popped one of these units open to determine whether/how to add a heat sink and possibly a fan to cool it. Finally, I think using an air compressor rather than a vacuum would probably cool it off faster due to the cooling effect from decompressing air.

[@FC2ESWS]

Hey do you anneal after every firing or how many firings do you go before annealing?

[@northeasttexastactical375]

I do now that it is so easy

[@carfvallrightsreservedwith6649]

Others that anneal every time are claiming 20+ reloads.

[@carfvallrightsreservedwith6649]

And like author states, use primer pocket to indicate case serviceability.

[@arnoldmoos1791]

did you disconnect the internal fan? It blows from the rear to the front on mine, so you are pulling air against the internal fan with the added fan

[@northeasttexastactical375]

Oh, that's a new one to me. No, mine blows out the rear of the unit.

[@arnoldmoos1791]

@@northeasttexastactical375 Maybe thats why mine heats up so fast . I wonder if i could reverse the fan leads on the board

[@northeasttexastactical375]

@@arnoldmoos1791 I would definitely try that, or flip the fan around in the housing

[@rickyk.6944]

@@northeasttexastactical375 Mine blows from the rear to the front !

[@northeasttexastactical375]

@@rickyk.6944 Dang Chinese can't keep anything consistent... You can still cool it off quick with the vacuum trick. If you put a fan on the end just make sure it's blowing the same way as your internal fan. You're just trying to air cool the internals; it doesn't matter which way the air flows

[@ronin6158]

use tempilaq to get the temp exactly right. Over annealing can be dangerous.

[@billsharpton4206]

I'm annealing 6.5 Grendel brass. My anneal time is WAY longer. 9.5 seconds! I must be doing something wrong. I wrapped the coil tighter. I wrapped it on a piece of 1/2" PEX pipe. Grendel is 0.438" od. The coil is close to the case so I'm not sure of the problem. Any thoughts would be great.

[@j.muckafignotti4226]

How many wraps due you have in that coil?

[@northeasttexastactical375]

Smaller wire, more coils. None of my brass is more than 2 seconds

[@arnoldmoos1791]

Is anyone going to make an adaptor to put a fan on the back? I could glue one on the back but would have to move the power cord, so it comes out the bottom rather than the back end.

[@carfvallrightsreservedwith6649]

Just nick a notch (in fan housing) to allow power cord to exit.

[@Edgy01]

Perhaps I’m just too thrifty, but has anyone considered using a Forstner bit and make a case holder out of wood? Particularly not problematic for large cases like 30-06. It’s just going burn, and if it singes, it’s just no big deal.

[@joearledge1]

My white heat shields started crumbling the second I started trying to bend the wire, before I ever even used it once

[@jordanjones5612]

I bought this heater and the timer. It seems as though I can only get the timer relay to operate while using their "shared power" method. I checked continuity between the two output (switching) pins and even with the timer triggered, the relay never latches those two output pins. That being said, i assume I have a faulty unit. The timer works great in the dc only configuration with shared power. Did you have any issues like that or should I just return the relay?

[@jordanjones5612]

For clarification, I am using an external trigger, and only cut one AC wire, to run through the switching pins as you showed in the last minute of your video

[@northeasttexastactical375]

I'm not sure what that could be. I couldn't get mine to work with shared power, only by using separate DC to power the unit.

[@jordanjones5612]

@@northeasttexastactical375 So I pulled the board out of the housing and I have a main wire trace on the PCB that has burnt out (probably from trying to figure out their crappy schematics). It is on the display side of the board and not noticable from the back. A little solder work and it works as you described. Note, for shared power to work you have to run 3-30v DC not AC. Their drawing for the dc shared is actually correct. I ran the wires from the push button on the annealer to the output terminals on the relay timer so it will only turn on when my trigger trips the circuit. Works great. Thanks!

[@Smithermal]

I like your video. and I also made video with my induction heater. Really good experience. fantastic

[@finalaccuracy7695]

My question is, where did you find your 10mm socket!?!?😂😂😂

[@northeasttexastactical375]

I buy in bulk amzn.to/3zrYRse

[@michaelvorster5913]

I just got my induction heater. Used it for 3 times and then I heard a pop and a flash came out the front. Now it's not working anymore. 😡

[@northeasttexastactical375]

The beauty of Amazon's return policy

[@matthewkramer6543]

Man I really wish you would show the WHOLE 3 prong extension cord, I’m too dumb to figure it out. Didn’t understand “cutting into it and splicing the timer into the extension cord.” I thought I was supposed to cut the whole 3 prong off 😂

[@northeasttexastactical375]

aww bummer, well, at least that's the cheapest component.

[@brucebalfour8042]

Have you tried using an infrared thermometer to see what the temp actually is? 700 degrees seems to be the best temp. templaq can also be used. Heating red might be hot enough to melt the zinc in the alloy. You are obviously getting the tight groups and performance...just my 2 cents.

[@northeasttexastactical375]

I have tried a couple, but they don't go high enough to read the temps and I'm not concerned about it enough to spend hundreds of dollars on one that can. If I can see a orange glow in the daylight or with the lights on I know I've gone too long. Dim the lights, look for a deep red glow, lock it in that timer and start cranking them out.

[@toddprickett6376]

Annealing is a combination of temperature + time. You can anneal brass at 700 degrees, but you'd have to do so for 20 or 30 minutes. 1000 - 1100 degrees seems to be the sweet spot where you are able to anneal within a second or two.

[@coldbore1444]

Does anyone have a link to a fan that fits on the rear of the hot rod?

[@alouiciousjackson5812]

Wow you check comments fast. I deleted my comment and reposted it because I hate when it says 'edited'. Anyway I'll post it again... Keeps disappearing now, not sure if it's you or YT. Oh well.