@StormDude96 Yes, we did thank you, and I hope the same for you too. Thankyou.

@zacfergie8202 That works just as well.

@@Pankuchnia Cheers. Thank you.

@DTJoinery You welcome:-)

@@Pankuchnia Where are you based?

@DTJoinery England:-)

@b3owu1f There are certain timbers that we won't use, as they are likely to twist. If you machine the timber correct and the weather is somewhat consistent, then it's not a real problem. Big contadictions in the weather, though, are a problem for us, 40 deg celcius today with westerly winds( meaning very dry) then 25 deg tomorrow with 95% humidty will almost certainly cause us issues with the imber stability. A jointer with nice long tables is important for straightening your timber. Anything shorter than 6ft will be a challenge.

​@@DTJoineryI don't know enough about how outside weather affects interior doors. We get 115 summers and 25 winters mostly dry though very little humidity. We typically keep house between 60 and 78 year round though sometimes we shut heat off when away and it may get colder. My doors are all 8ft hollow core crap so I wanted to build some to replace those. I originally thought I could use 2x4 Douglas fir and joint and plane them then make them stave core with veneers but I plan to paint the doors so may be a waste of money to try to use veneers only to paint. I don't have the room for a big jointer so I picked up cutech 10" which has extensions to 54". Figured that with rollers on both sides should work well enough to support running 98" or so stiles or wood to joint then run thru dw735 to plane ? I know it will require ensuring the rollers are in same plane and level with indeed and oitdeed. But I don't have much else to work with. Do have festool track saw to cut edges if need be. Also bought a ton of bessey clamps for clamping up stiles and rails and pipe clamps for door.

@b3owu1f As long as it's all in wind, there is nothing wrong with table extensions, and there is no reason that you shouldn't get a nice true finish. If your internal temps and humidity are stable year wide, then you should not have any issues with the stability provided that the timber you select is a suitable quality to do the job. Douglas Fir would be fine, western red vedar also, even oak although a lot harder to work with than the former timbers.

@@DTJoinery The reason I ask about douglas fir is all the premium 2x4s at my local big box are that.. and run about $3.75 per 8ft length. Though they may not be long enough as I need a 96" door I believe and 8ft after a little fixing/etc may be < 96" so not sure I can use that. They may have longer boards. My thought was using cheap 2x4s for the core staves, then use better hardwood (poplar, maple) for the outside staves sandwiching the 2x4 douglas fir. But I dont have a good band saw to cut veneers with so not sure I can find good quality veneers at 1/4" to put on the face of the staves and at 96" long. This is for 1 3/8" thick interior doors too. Other concern is weight.. not sure how heavy this door will get with 8ft real wood stiles/rails and panels. I did buy the interior/exterior door bits from Infinity which was about $300 for the 4 bits including the ogee raised panel bit. My router is the Jessem 3 1/4hp so should be able to handle the cutting no problem with these bits. But if not douglas fir, then maybe I can find poplar cheap enough to work with.

@b3owu1f As long as you get decent grade and not knotty or lots of gum veins and sappy spots (can be hard with Douglas Fir to avoid sap) it should be ok. Just make sure your hardware is sufficient, at least 3 hinges per door for that height.

@@billwhite5853 Indeed.

Ps. I’m south of Sydney. Could bring the old ones up to duplicate.

@Dadolaurenovic A glazed single light sash, I charge around $300+ gst. Clear glass.

@@DTJoinery​​⁠ thanks for the reply - much appreciated! I’ll be in touch when I get to the next room’s windows. I assume you’d be able to make completely new matching sash windows for a room extension also.

@Dadolaurenovic Yep, no problem. Windows and doors is our specialty.

@rcav1501 I'm not sure if you mean seal or timber. If seals, no we don't. We use a 10mm parting bead, a 20mm stop bead to the inside and a 20mm outside lining to form the channels for the sashes to run in. On a window with chords and weights, the construction is very different to this window.

@@DTJoinery Have you shown (or could you show) the construction of a traditional double hung sash window with weights? I am setting out to build 20 this year. A long time ago I made a pair, but I'm rusty - hence brushing up with KZbin. I'm getting machinery sorted as I type, and plan to use Accoya for everything. Do you have any experience with this material? Thanks for an excellent channel.

@karob6569 I've not filmed any with chords and weights. We don't get to make many these days. We only did a handful last year, I will if I get some come through this year. Accoya is well raved about but has not been around long enough to make an experienced judgement, we have uaed it on a couple of jobs, and it works ok. it smells pretty heavily of vinegar and has quite a lot of static when machining. If it's as good as its talked up, then it will be fine.

Thanks. We were happy with the finished product. Depending on how I feel and what's involved, we have 2-3 different methods of construction when we do arch windows..

It's a shame that all these old manufacturers are longer around, quality was so much better than tiday.

@eyuptony Yes, they have always been my favourite machines.

@@eyuptony After looking at it for 25 years, I am still impressed by it.

@eyuptony Thanks. Not a big enough problem for me to change.😁

@andrewarthurmatthews6685 Well, you could certainly do it that way. Each person will have their own preferred method.

Cheers. Thanks for the input.

Practice, paractice, practice. It's the only way to improve.

@eyuptony You are probably right, they came out of a TAFE department for machinist trade apprentices, so over the top with safety. Thanks for the input.

@@mellery451 It's the forming of the burr that creates the cutting edge, unlike a chisel or plane iron where the burr interferes with the cutting edge.

@@TinekaJasonPalmer No worries 😊

@@NonNone-qm4zi There is always a variety of methods to achieve the same outcome. In 65 years of doing it like this, no injuries to date👍😁

I use a purpose made burnishing tool but any tool steel rod will work

@@PeanutsDadForever Thanks.

👍

Something I cherish.

Agreed.

The key is to not put too much pressure on the chisel and have it angled away from your hand, that way a if a slip happens, no damage done. However if you have a method that feels safer for you, use that.👍

@DTJoinery i use a dedicated edgeless tool for it. Kirchen sell one for a few euros. But i do it mostly the same.

The picture at the end is all I have. I never received a pocture once installed.

@@bccev770 😊

@jimgeelan5949 I've never heard it called that before.

@@DTJoinerynearly every USA channel does and the English channels are bowing down and calling it the same 😮 just to get more views

@jimgeelan5949 Yeah, ok. Sadly, a lot is being lost.

@jimgeelan5949 nothing to do with views. Its called a card scraper, (because its shaped like a card) to distinquish it from the cabinet scraper, (which has handles and is easier to adjust)!

It is if you’re using it to remove the magnetic strip from your offspring’s credit cards.

I'll give it some thought. Thanks for the suggestion.

@campbellmorrison8540 Yes, it's called a feed unit. It is set with an angle facing toward the fences, being closer to the tail out fence, so this holds the timber against the fence. It's also set to hold the timber flat on the table, whilst still being able to push it through.

@@DTJoinery Very neat. I have just had to make a similar piece out of oak to fix a clock case but I only had a metal mill and was limited to 400mm, I got there but would have been a lot easier with a spindle molder for sure

@campbellmorrison8540 It's good that you were able to make it with what you had. It's definitely a bonus when we have access to the best tool for the job. It wasn't always the case for me, I worked my way up over many years.

Totally, being able to run to the grinder and adjust or grind afresh with some tool steel is so simple and practical, and as you say, so cheap. They are widely used in Australia still, and many joiners I know still run them regularly.

@@johnmorgenthaler3611 Thanks. They are a very simple design, yet so versatile.

@justcruisin109 Yes, we use a variety of heads too. It just depends on what the profile shape is and what I have to create it. Thanks for your input.

@jimgeelan5949 Haha, we used to do the duck with Jointer cutters😅 Hopefully, I am retired by the time they are outlawed here. I have a cuoboard full of heads, but as you know, the slotted collars are far more usable than a single use head.

Thank you.

It's unfortunate as they are so versatile. As I mentioned in the video, it would cost me a fortune to replace what I have with heads. Did you use pins with them?

@@DTJoinery no they were in the back of the knife drawer we just kept them sharp and balanced gave that nut a good pull and rock an roll

@BlackHawk295 With a bit of planning, they are not a difficult thing to make, provided you have the parts required.

😊

@truckguy6666 Kwila is a species of Hardwood grown in New Guinea. Very good timber!

@@DTJoinery Nice. Never heard of it! Maybe I heard some of the other names. Love the videos, thanks!

@truckguy6666 Merbau is the same botanical species grown in Malaysia.

@@jimgeelan5949 Yep, perfect mindset. 👍

The motor is a 1440rpm, so looking at the pulleys, I'm guessing the disk is spinning at around 720rpm at the centre, maybe 1000rpm. I can't see the pulley size clearly on the motor to be certain.

If you check out my earlier curved projects, like the semicircular window, I use it on there. However, it wasn't extracted, so it was a bit dusty. When it is extracted, it gives off basiccaly no dust at all as the disk is sandwiched in its own compartment.

@chrisgardner3606 Haha. As long as it works, that's the main thing, and work it does. One of these days, I will get time to tidy it all up and make it look good😁

@DTJoinery Yes at least yours is running. I've been setting up a central collector with semi auto blast gates and a VFD on the motor for over a year now but still useing a portable 3hp for everything. Never enough time.

@chrisgardner3606 It's a very expensive thing to do, I've spent about $15k alone in just ducting. My poor old cyclone and bin are in terrible shape, but it's around $50k for me to replace it.

Thank you.

@@jimgeelan5949 Aint that the truth. Cheers.

@@tinycuisine6544 Thank you.

@counseloridealist Also something new to me is the drawstring on my hoodie, never had one before, and have noticed a couple of times, it is a potention hazard hanging down. I tuck it into my jumper now.

@ I saw a kid in shop class decades ago who had his jersey sleeve caught in a shaper. He pulled back, but the cut was substantial.

@counseloridealist Happens too easy and so fast. Long hair not tied back is another.

@@DTJoinery Notably, women are used to brushing their hair out of the way. The machines will grab the hair faster than anyone could react.

@counseloridealist Indeed.

👍

Thanks for the offer, it would appear my usb slot that I was using to download my media has become faulty. I also need to put my camera in for a service.

I've seen them like that too. I beleive my fence setup is not original, in fact I am wondering if it actually belongs on the SCM. Bith came from the same place.

Sounds like a good buy.