To remove and refit the undertray and replace the belt, I would set aside an hour. You can complete the job in 30 minutes once you have done it a couple of times. Adjusting the spacers will add more time. If simply swapping the belt with no spacer adjustment needed or removing the power steering belt to replace the alternator belt, the pulley can stay in place. Simply loosen the bolts to create enough slack so the belt can be removed. This will save time.

@@T4TipsGuides Brilliant thanks! My undertray is off already... hopefully I won't need to adjust the spacers.... but I guess I'll set aside plenty of time... just incase!!

​@@wendyjackmusicJust take your time. The bolts are called cheese bolts for a reason 😂

Just tested the link. It is working. The link is to the seller's shop, not the individual item, as those links expire. Once you click on the link, you will see two search boxes. One at the top to search the whole of eBay and one lower down to search the seller's store. Type "heater control arm" into the lower search box, and that will bring up all the different types of heater control arms.

I used the kit from Elring. I tried a couple of Febi Bilstein gaskets but they both leaked. Don't forget a small amount of sealant in the cam ring corners. Underneath the gasket and also above once the gasket is in place. Link in description as to where to put sealant. Code for Elring kit is 413.690 That is for the gasket + sealing caps.

@@T4TipsGuides great thanks, yea I read about the sealant, nice one 👍🏼

@@annagriffiths717 I'm so happy to hear my content has helped you out, Anna. 🙂👍

4.8mm x 19mm (not including head) Phillips Pan Head with a captive washer. Mine are pretty rusty, so I'm replacing them with 4.8mm x 22mm, without the washer. The nearest size I could find as 19mm was sold out. I have just been out and fitted them. Absolutely fine. Not too long. I'll post a picture up in the community section of my channel.

@tonyphilp953 I'm now using Meyle for parts and Bosch for filters. I'm hearing more and more people reporting negative things about Febi parts. It's such a shame. They were my go-to manufacturers for many years.

Glad it helped!

I added that step to the description after forgetting to use sealant during filming. I also added a link to a video showing where to place the sealant. I thought I had pinned a comment telling viewers to look in the description. I'll pin your comment now.

When it first broke years ago, I spent a few weeks using the diverter valve arm under the bonnet to control the temperature. It wasn't ideal. Hope you get your one fixed

Thanks 👍

😂

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There is more than one leak. In this video I show the water is coming in where the A pillar joins the roof 2:15 and also where there is some separation behind the weather strip 2:24. After showing the water coming in I then show where those areas relate to on the exterior of the van. As a temporary fix I have used black duct tape around the edge of the windscreen and Dirko grey sealant in the crack behind the weather strip. The van is now dry. The windscreen is also leaking along the bottom of the frame and no doubt in a few other places as well. The purpose of this video was to show leaks in places that might not be so obvious and also to demonstrate the borescope.

Hello mate I have been chasing a leak recently on the drivers side I have a video showing it and I've had the screen done the apature was absolutely perfect I was driving home from the window place and no rain but water must have been still in the a pillar because I could see it leaking I recon somewhere in these areas are my problems thanks for the video its gave me some inspiration on my next video ill be looking to quote this video for others to watch ? Cheers dave

​@scousebikers Hi Dave. Thanks for watching. When I filmed the video I forgot to show inside the bottom of the A pillar. A centimetre or two below where the water is leaking out, where I removed the plastic tab, there is some kind of foam. It is kind of like expanding foam. Water can well up and sit on top of it for weeks. The area where the top of the A pillar joins the roof and the crack/separation behind the weather strip, is, in my opinion, a major weak spot on T4s. I think it affects more vans than people realise. It has caused the passenger side step under the plastic cover to rot on my van. Probably the cause on many other vans too. I have left the rubber floor covering out of the van until I get the leak sorted properly. Rusty water leaked out the back of the matt (van always parked facing uphill) and into the plywood floor in the back and up into my new vinyl oak effect effect flooring, that it now ruined. Water leaks are the absolute worst, but it is all fixable. For the time being duct tape and Dirko grey sealant has got the van water tight. It's not pretty, but it is dry. 😂 Hope you get yours sorted and that my vid helped you diagnosed the leak. Without seeing that second dribble of water with the borescope I never would have looked behind the rubber weather strip. Cost me £100, and even if I never use it again, it was money well spent. All the best Marc

@T4TipsGuides Marc that's correct mate that's exactly what's happened to mine on the drivers side the the lip for the door seal has gone with the wind 😅 I have now sealed in the locations you mentioned with heavy silcone sealant I'll add a video soon go the channel to shoe a temp solution just got to wait to see what happens after the rain I agree with what your saying these vans are classics in the making I've had her about 3 years now great vans same problem with the water travelling down the van destroyed my wood hopefully fix it temp for now and get some seal sealer on her soon and repaint cheers dave

​@scousebikers ​I'll make a short video tomorrow to show where I applied the sealant. It isn't pretty, but the van is dry.

I hope the video helped you clear that pesky service indicator. Thanks for watching.

Yes. I believe the front doors, side sliding doors, and barn doors use the same barrel. The up and over door or tailgate you wish to fit uses a slightly longer barrel. They contain the same amount of wafers/tumblers.

5:08 Brass spacer rings are used to set the correct tension. To add tension, remove spacers from the centre between the two pulley halves. If your belt has been adjusted previously due to wear (spacers are removed), you will need to add some spacers until the correct tension is achieved. It may be that you simply need to change the belt and not change the amount of spacers. Unused spacers are stored on the outside of the outer pulley.

@@T4TipsGuides cheers thats great thank you

​@@goonluvNo worries. Hope it helps.

That is a great observation. I didn't think of that. 👍

I'm glad to hear this video is still helping T4 owners.

Thanks for watching. I am back using a Contitech belt for the power steering. I found certain compounds can be noisy. Also, not all makes are exactly the same design, and they can sit slightly differently within the pulley. Here is the belt that is on the van at the moment. "ContiTech V-Belt, Vee Belt, Auxiliary, Drive - Pt No: AVX10X650 - OE Quality" That is the search term on eBay U.K. The belt size is 10x650. That is for the ABL engine code. It may not be the same for other models.

Interesting. Since I made the video, I have also had the exact same issue with a Master-Sport MS (German company) fuel filter from AutoDoc. I managed to get the R clip in eventually, but it took an immense amount of force. It wasn't fitted to the van. I have been purchasing certain items from different manufacturers simply for test purposes. I have also had issues with Kamoka (Polish company) parts from AutoDoc. I'll maybe cover that in a future video. I have the footage already. I just need to edit it.