@@michaelbarnes5269 that was a replay of it 😄 I should have been more clear, I only found out after editing

🤣🤣🤣 I'm adding a plug or shielding, just gonna get rid of the chance it will happen again

* 3 seconds

🤣

@@Beyond_The_Tint just wrap them an electrical tape for a minute.

@@jacktastick yeah but then I'd have to every time it's been an issue before I'd rather eliminate the issue or *try to

That's a good idea! In theory the lower portion should provide more output. I believe air getting in would totally end the siphon correct? Or would small amounts of air just ruin efficiency?

This is a fair question. I think a different motor may work alot better with this system but for this one anything over 50W would be impressive. I'm not sure I follow on the shorts portion of the comment though

You got it!

*YOU GOT IT!

This one isn't a 3 phase motor, 12v dc. newest one will be and need one though!

@ dc motors still produce ac current. ac motors acually would not produce any power because there is no magnetic force except the armachure so it’s super inefficient for power producution. I would place a bridge rectifier on that aswell as a capacitor to buffer out the spikes in power and adjust your pulley design so that you get more rotation of the motor.

@@playdropfiretopstop I will look into this more thank you! Yes I also agree I tested the 60T but realized I never posted the video for it

Thank you I planned on adding more to the exit bit this makes sense for the Inlet too!

This seems like it would work well with the closed pipe Rev in the works! I'm also working on a turbine that is closed with a siphon effect. I just posted a short of it a little while ago (shamless plug)

The idea was to find the balance point of rpm to water speed and flow, it also has been pointed out that that's the idea case for them but at the moment rev 2 is a closed pipe. (In the works)

@@Beyond_The_Tint the more water pressure you have the more speed you should be able to obtain. and dont take this in a condescending way as i have no idea what you know and you probably already know this. when building a ram pump the more drop you have the better the pressure you can build (more pressure = more lift). this would be obtained by having a longer pipe many feet upstream and by time it gets to where the pump is at it will have "X" amount of head pressure relative to how much drop it has. in a case like this if you have more pressure (longer inlet for more drop) then it will spin faster.

@@MrIrishalley no offense taken but yes that's correct, also know as head. It also could be because I'm working on another hydro turbine (just released another short) that would make it very similar and I wanted to keep the concept different. I agree though that should greatly improve efficiency

This has been a common point, im going to see about going that route thank you!

Well useless in what sense? That's a major apples to oranges comparison. See this isn't like buying a car, rather giving suggestions to engineer that designed it. Then I can improve the design and show its full potential. It takes time to get there and this is how we like to do it.

The full video of the power test is also avaliable, that shows the "car" starting and driving!

I believe we did this in the full Screw Turbine Video! If not I will try and get it done this weekend

@Beyond_The_Tint I'm gonna have to go watch it. Maybe play it well I'm doing the tool paths for the injection mold that's next week's project.

Thank you for this comment! I'm not sure it would need to be that wide for that much power but I see what you're saying. Definitely needs more length and a closed tube

@@Beyond_The_Tint si le cierras la tubería puede parecer mejor pero NO, puedes bloquear mas su flujo y perder rpm, ha de tener un equilibrio entre litros por seg y rpm! cuándo si se ha de cerrar es como en la mia de aspiración kaplan! cuándo son arquimedes al igual que una noria ha de entrar libre el agua con su propio fluido! si le das mas anchura de cangilones consigues un torque suficiente y con mas longitud mas presión y velocidad para poder con el freno de polea multiplicadora y el freno propio electromagnético del cogging! el ángulo parece bueno, entre 35 y 45° entre su eje y el alabe del cangilon! ánimo! seguro que resuelta eficiente

Thank you for taking the time to write this up! It gives a new perspective I hadn't had prior. I'll have to try this out and test, longer isn't too hard. Going 3x as wide will prove to be its challenging point.

I've been thinking of designing one of those newer more efficient style propellers that are being utilized in small scale wind turbines. Thank you for this comment though!

In theory shouldn't that material (water) have more force to act upon it? I agree in this particular spot a prob is much more efficient. My "Tow Turbine" project highlights on this and is likely close to what you mean.

I like this idea alot! It's actually very close sounding to my "tow turbine" there's alot of videos on that as well

In the full video I show this more. For this short it either is on a 80t (screw shaft) or a 60t to a 20t on the motor. It seemed like due to torque the 80 was just a little too high for this application. The next Rev will be a full closed tube like you said so the water has to flow through it. Thank you for this advice

Good advice comes from anyone in my opinion. You're absolutely correct this isn't the most efficient in this application but I just posted a different design with a prob! Check it out on the channel

Try different thread pitches. A steeper angle might work better. It's more of an obstacle when the angle is that close to 90 degrees. But a turbine might still be more powerful. An Archimedes screw like that works better for getting water uphill.

@AlexDiesTrying thank you for the comment. I'll try this as well that's also been pointed out too. It's better at moving a medium rather than producing power from it!

Thank you! It's the comments that have driven these projects so far. Welcome to the circus 🤣

Thank you! 😊

I'll have to grab this tool! Thanks

@Beyond_The_Tint look for 'casette removal tool' (it can grab the inside of the locking ring) and a 'chain whip'. It's a 5 minute job the second time you do it😜

I agree, I plan to add things like that into the design when it's more sound. It definitely would increase power and efficiency but I think it's important to improve the other components then add more in!

What's the first thing on the list?

You're right it is an amazing feeling especially when it works as intended. The support from my viewers is also a huge driving force for me. You guys are amazing

It's funny you say that, I've been thinking of exactly this. It would also allow me to change the ratio very quickly to test various speeds. Fantastic idea

@Beyond_The_Tint yes sir.. there will be losses to consider through the chain but you may have enough gear ratios to find one which the losses are negligible. Just my 2 cents. (Probably only worth a penny, though) Keep up the awesome work!

Derailers don't like do do their thing while under full load, but it would be fun on a short term prototype.

@@REG3305 I'll have to play around with this idea further, I agree though one should work better than the others

@@Bbonno I wasn't aware they had a preference! I'll have to do some testing but I agree on a short term prototype it should work out

Its a link to another video that shows an archimedes screw

Yes I linked that video as related! I'm still working on the archimedes screw turbine Rev 2. Thank you 😊

That's correct, thank you!

Thank you

@ hope you get more views. Very verynimpressed with the first pulley!

I actually am working (with) a company that does metal 3D printing, but for other things I definitely will reach out. Thank you, it means alot! *fixed grammar*

@@Beyond_The_Tint I'm jealous lol. I have a 4 axis mill and a small Swiss

Stay tuned should have more details in next video, cost is much lower than you would think! I think I'm the one who's jealous here

Nah I charge a tesla here the printer is nothing, it's not really as bad as people think. Not to mention as its getting colder the energy isn't wasted as it's heating the room and keeping thermostat up, so in the end it's a balance!

I'd think it's at 60mm/s with this nozzle

This is a great idea! Right now it has a .6mm hot end I've gone up to .8 for speed but ended up loosing some quality. I'll definitely check them out tho! It does come with one that clips on but it self destructed on the first tap lmao

@@Beyond_The_Tint If you are going for anything quality the most you will really want to go is 1mm but they go all the way up to 2.4mm.

I'll check them out for sure thanks

That's an insane print time! I've loved my bambu for anything that fits. I'm looking into the k2+ for size and speed

Check out my newest short! This is very much so a water wheel haha. Great advice for this one I'll definitely look into this

Thank you, that's a great idea to help with some of that tension. I also like the flywheel idea too

I'm interested to hear more on this. This is the very first print so idea is to print something that works as cheap as possible but in the next one I'd love input!

I'll be honest I hated mine for a long time I don't use it much (only when it doesn't fit on bambu) but the past 2-3 times I've used it its been great. I can give you some input on it if you need help. I'm not an expert tho*

@Beyond_The_Tint it randomly loses step after long prints, so i don't even want to bother printing on it when i have two new enders. the hotend clamp has warped, so now the hotend sits too high, the fan duct crashes into parts. new step sticks, but it still randomly loses steps. i've watched it, it doesn't crash or anything, one of the motors will bind and fight itself for a second or two and then resume at the wrong x/y point. they aren't warm or anything, and it happens regardless of printing from sd or usb.

It's giant

I think it could be that partially, but the main factor seemed to be it tensioning the cable to the point it has to "flex" rather than the motor. I really like the idea with the potentiometer to regulate the resistance! Thanks

No problem! I'm actually using it right now haha

12v/24v brushed DC motor. 250w they are also called escooter motors

Stay tuned I have a 1000w ebike motor coming up!

Thank you!

Check out my power on a stick vid! There's a collector on that just like you decribe. I'll see what I can do on this I'm just worried too much will make it unstable as well. 🤣 ik when I was editing I saw them and decided to really zoom in. That could have caused the jumping as well