The washer is concave. The concave side faces towards the steel balls.

Next time take the amount you’re narrowing out of the middle and the just relocate the mounting brackets. Less you have to cut up the beam and weld back together

Do yourself a favor and get a good valve soring compressor

Didn’t see you clock the CV joints…..?

What kind of tool are you using to work against the springs? thank you

What about the old Jeep?

Very nice, doing and old 1965 1200 40hp single port right now. Cleaning everything up and will do the same thing on these heads. Not sure about the valve condition yet and there is some impact damage from a blown-out piston in one area but not where you lapped the inside so should be good. Definitely had blow by on the head where the blown piston was so lapping is a must on these. I got one of those cheap spring removers too, so your video is helpful setting up for this.

Use a piece of pvc pipe just bigger then axle..slide boot on it then over axle remove pvc . Apply greas to pvc..first.. That's my idea anyhow..got to do this myself .just ordered the boots...thank for posting. 👍

what im thinking is your fuel getting too cold with no heat risers. Ive got a friend of mine who delete his heat risers and his engine wouldnt handle acceleration properly. With a Vacuum leak, you idle would be all over the place, range about 850 then dropping to 600 then goes back up, etc...

Great explanation and no nonsense video.

Good Job 👍👍

You may want to consider this... Your MIG welder can obviously weld with steel wire, but it can also work with MIG Brazing Wire as well... Now Mig Brazing is not Mig Welding, but it is extremely strong and it uses a whole lot less temperature, so it is much less likely you will have burn-through or warpage of the sheetmetal with MIG Brazing. Brazing of course is "bonding" it is not "welding", but the bond created with the bronze is very very strong, so strong you would probably break the two pieces of metal you have brazed together before you would break the brazed union. It's something to consider, and it is a perfectly acceptable method of working with sheet metal.

I like it. Gives an art Deco vibe. Perfect for the car

I’ve been welding on rusty vws for years and sometimes it’s hard to do . I’m not the best but what I’ve found like here on my latest beetle video VW Beetle 1972 Saved from breaking. Repairing the RUST !! kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZpKylZiJmLyWg7M Is fibreglass filler as I had a few deep dents that I never pulled out but a tip from bad Chad was to use fibreglass filler,smooth then body filler on top (bondo) it filled the dents and looks ok oh and hides the boger welds :) keep going and good to move on then go back like I’ve done recently 👍 keep going at it sir , it will be fine

Excellent Werk!

A job well done 👍

Might be mixing up points plate and weights area. The weights spin, but the points plate does not spin. Use shaft with weights from 009, use points plate from 034. Probably I'm missing something.

Check the wiper motor and the action now while it is open.

Sorry, but hardly the best welding job and sheetmetal work, thus nothing to admire and learn...

Lookig good!!🎉

PUT SOMETHING UNDER THE VALVE SO IT DOSE NOT GO DOWN WHEN YOUR PUSHING DOWN ON THE SPRING

where did you get the red horn button or where can i get one thanks Dean

I'd try not to hit my rachet with a hammer.

A tip for you. Watch Fitzee’s Fabrications for inspiration regarding rust repair methods.

Awesome JOB !

Excellent video!

If you're not cutting your shock towers you will have problems I have a EMPI 2" narrowed beam on my 67 and that's as close you can get with shock towers your literally and 8th or less from wheel well on the inside the shock towers.

SRV and Albert King

Getting closer

Keep at it 👍🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿

Great video

Good progress. It will be solid when your done

I think you need a tetanus shot just to look at it.

Yeah nice to see you back,wow unbelievable the front rust but looks a lot better once cut out 👍 good luck

Finally a more detailed procedure I've been looking for. Great video.

Thanks for that articulate and instructional procedure! Your academic English background clearly helps the presentation, LoL. Too many of these KZbin videos suffer from poor presentation, unclear English and grammar, which makes them a bit tedious to follow. This is a fascinating project for us 'buggy hobbyists' (if you were a professor of philosophy, would that make you a 'Buggy Hobbsyest', I can't help but muse?). 😆 Thanks again for this insight into the interesting world of bug distributors!

Thanks for the video, it helped me out a lot!

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11:30 > boot pull over solution - pull 1st boot over from the other side- no foldover! 2nd boot- Use thin plastic bag or wrap flat plastic to make greasy sliding sleeve, to allow 2nd boot to slide over the problem spots on axle.

Shoot it with some “Slick 50”, let it sit and then bang on it.

Wow ... those seats are ... LUSH ... nice find. Thanks for these videos and the others. Old, but I just picked up a 69 so looking forward to learning all about it! Subscribed!

Hi! the top right screw on my D ring alwasy vibrates and comes loose. i was able to just screw it back in. but now the screw is loose and cant even sit in its hole. any idea to get it to sit? teflon tape? helicoil? bigger screws? any suggestions?

If you put them on from the opposite and they will not roll over on their self

the tool used to replace the boot that uses bolts that are torx, any idea what size?

ITS THE STEERING DAPER BRACKIT

Quite a project you have there. Good luck. Lemme know if I can help. Most of my experience is on my 1969 Westy.

Do you watch, KOMBI LIFE, VWLife or OldVolks TV? And where is the Vanagon guy located?

Noice!😎👍 The usual suspects when it comes to rusty spots. That sure took a lot of elbow grease, bit it turned out 👍. Great job! STOC www.youtube.com/@SundryTalesOfConstance79WESTY