Sounds like it’s running good. I have a 1973 Pontiac 400 on the engine stand getting ready to pull apart and start the rebuild process. Hopefully the block is good.

Fan speed does look slow . When clutch fan engages at temperature it would've been so loud it would've showed up on video noise so much it would've been hard to hear you speaking when working properly. I learned the hard way that the lower radiator hose MUST have a spring inside like came originally. Most people toss the original hose into the trash and install new hose without transferring the spring over to replacement hose. There really should be a warning tag on every lower hose. You can make a coil the length of the hose with a metal coat hanger. I owned a 76 T/A 4 speed in 1995. I rebuilt the 400 and did alot of custom work to the ram air 3 heads I had and learned alot about the engine platform coming from racing only sbc's. Mine ran between 180 and 200 degrees based on how hard it was driven. . There's alot of tricks you can do to that factory quadrajet to really wake up performance without sacrificing fuel economy or drivability. You have a beautiful example of a 76. They can be amazing cars and reliable with great performance. Truly a fun car. I miss mine.

What a beautiful car!

Sorry dude, you didn't show me anything helpful

Put the camera on a tripod and leave it there.

This rebuild was a challenge.. thanks

Nice work!

Good work!

I'm most likely to install this Pypes system in my 78' T/A 4speed W72 instead of headers. My dad had a set in there and those header pipes hit the ground somewhere and was not fun to install. I'm going with a 2 1/2 inch pipe. How good/bad was this set up overall?

How do you fish that dam thing back in there!

It's all going well. The governor and valve body case bolts are only torqued to 80-120 in-lb which is less that 10 ft-lb. Therefore, a ft-lb torque wrench can't be used accurately. Without an in-lb torque wrench, you can use a short 1/4" drive ratchet which should keep you from over torquing. Continue on.

I give you credit, I never attempted a transmission rebuild. Looks like you’re doing a great job!

Everything seems to be going in the right direction. Going with the .090” #1 is the way to go since the next size up would be too thick to insert. Remember you will have to shave off the tags from the new washer to work on your stator support. There’s no washer between the clutch drums, only the narrow top edge of the direct drums bushing acts like a thrust washer riding on the narrow-machined surface area on the bottom of the forward drum. The waffle pattern on the direct fiber disks helps squeeze out the fluid on the synchronized 2-3 shift like treads on a tire channels out water on a wet road. The forward clutch engagement is not synchronized, so the larger contract area of a smooth disk is more important for the same reason drag slicks are smooth with no tread. The converter you picked up is for a larger 164 tooth flex plate. You have a smaller 157 tooth flex plate. Be sure to drop in your 24-spline input when you get the correct converter to verify it is for a 64-69 C4.

Robert, I’m using Ken’s videos to rebuild a C6 - not too far removed from a C4. Multiple resources will offer different perspectives…..a great companion to Ken’s videos would be Nick’s Transmissions here on KZbin. Have a look at his C6 series to get more info on overall function, link below. I don’t think he has one on the C4….Those small holes are the key to these transmissions. The fluid goes through the length of the shaft under pressure to make the pistons compress, and the various types of springs return them to position…..I wrench all the time on my 69 F100 and 69 Mustang, but building up a new C6 for the truck is my greatest challenge yet. I’m having a good time with it. kzbin.info/aero/PLMqgQ_reThtKGd3HnBFu_MBGl2bsiIO-j&si=cMKrK0BUvVN1jq-u

You have the clutch packs correct. Don't get hung up on terms just go by what part is. The forward clutch has a top and bottom pressure plate (one with the bevel and the other is a flat plate). It has three steel plates (drive plates) and four fiber plates (driven plates) just what you have. The direct only has one flat top pressure plate and four steel plates and four fiber plates just like you have. The thrust washer you're holding looks like a two-tag which is the #9 that goes in the back of the case under the one-way clutch race. When you hold up the shop manual, the picture of the #9 washer is at the top of the right-hand page at 14.09 minutes. The servo pistons pins will have holes in the center side like you show and on the other end facing into the servo covers. Clutches are applied to the pistons from fluid pressure through the small holes in the inner cylinder part of the clutch drums you were pointing to. Those little holes line up with the slip rings on the stator support. The loose ball check in the forward clutch piston will seat when it becomes pressurized. The fluid comes out of holes between the stator support slip rings and go into the drums through those small holes causing the pistons to go up squeezing the clutch packs. The #3 washer you found to be worn which is very common on the #3 washer. New washers are normally silver in color much like the color of new engine rod and main bearings. I don’t know what that little steel pin is from but looks exactly like a 3-2 control valve from a later built C4, but it appears your C4 does not have that valve so it’s a mystery for now..

Hi Robert, I haven't seen your oil pan yet, but I noticed the filter appears to be crushed at the opening. That might indicate the wrong filter was installed. The 64 and some 65 C4's have a special shallow pan which takes a special shallow filter. You might check to see if the filter has made witness marks in the floor of the pan.

Love the TA great job sir !

I have used these in the past. We been building Pontiac engines for over 40 year's, we now build our header's to support horsepower over 500. If you need our help we are, Miller Automotive in Boston Pennsylvania

I was doing a transmission flush using transmission's pump itself - one of the tubes came off and sprayed lots of ATF all over the engine bay - that was a fun clean up!

Oh man, I hate when that happens!

Thank you. I am in the same place your were (re: what service/manual do I need?). You are 100% correct... KZbin has the info needed. I have spent too much time not making a decision until I saw your video Thanks.

An 18lb bag of floor dry is 20 bucks.

It's not a good idea to use the same tank for oil and radiator fluid. What happens is that radiator fluid becomes acidic over a long period of time. Even after emptying the tank, some radiator fluids remain suspended in the oil and will slowly eat away at the inside of the tank.

I had a big cleanup job just like that, i used a squeegee and a duat pan, scouped it all into a 5 gal bucket. That way i didnt waste so many towels/rags.

Oil dry....! A Must have for every garage.

floor dry. The kitty litter style stuff. Made of clay, easily cleans up nuclear size oil spills like that one 😉

Best to keep some cat litter or saw dust on hand just in case of a spillage

dang. i hate when that happens. i keep a few bags of floor dry for my big messes.

Nice!!! The TA looks great! I like the chrome around the wheels. I hope you keep it, I can't imagine mine ever looking that good. That parts car looks like a solid car. Good work!!

Congratulations! I have to catch up on your videos. My aunt had a turquoise colored 64 Ford with big round taillights when I was a kid. I’m looking forward to watching you build it!

Thanks for all of your hard work. I at least appreciate it and your willingness to share your solutions for the next guy.

I'm so glad i found your channel!! I'm about to start restoring my 1976 black trans am too!

Love the colour Robert what is it

nah get a "bigger sheet" of metal. weld it together the first time. this would simplify the job. done and done

Dude, should’ve cleaned it better and added baking soda three or four layers keep repeating until you feel happy and safe and warm and fuzzy 😂

Looking good Robert.

Good day Robert you are really showing me teaching me your skills thank you mate

Hello my friend! Thank you for doing these videos alongside your projects. They are very helpful for me with my 1980 firebird. Thank you!

Good news is……you can only see one side of the car at a time…..if this side isn’t perfectly rounded on the bottom, no one will notice unless they wax the car for you, then, it might be noticeable…..looking good !

"Do what you don't want to do." I hear that. Underneath my Mercury this morning degreasing the frame and suspension parts around the motor with a scrubby sponge because I want to paint it. Next comes sanding. Keep it up! Subscribed.

Thank you for posting your efforts, looking good !

Good work Buddy a sweet body works supposed to be done

She’s coming along…..you have the white qtr panel you can use to help you figure the bends and angles…..I wonder if you could make and weld the lower 1” piece on the wheel lip and then make the outer wheel arch piece and weld them together as you go,,,,,,seen fitzee do this many times on these complicated pieces. I’m following, we are about same age…..im like you,I have way less tools,but,I’m too old to buy any more tools……wish I could,wife says…..you have to make due with what you got ! Takes longer,but, it is what it is.

I would get the 500 dollar. Part. That's probably why i don't have much money. ❤

I love stuff like this

For someone who don't know what they are doing looks like you been holding out on us nice fitting the metal

Just a few years on you at seventy four, might make seventy five if lucky. I drove these cars new and well sorta new after the service. I seen more fords than any other cars on the road in those days and just wonder where they all are. I live in alaska and so not many here at all. I have watched a good many different channels, seen them comb the woods or other places and what I notice is fords alright but real old as model T's up to around nineteen fifty four. Then it takes a huge jump to in the late seventies, and few of those. Mostly around nineties and newer but for some reason nothing to speak of from fifty five to the early-mid eighties and up. I know millions were sold yet so few remain. Any ideas as to where they are now??

I have a Miller 211 an it couldn’t be simpler to use. I can’t imagine it being confusing.

more important to see him do the template than you sand .

Cover up you glass it will all pitted from the mig welding👍