How’s the house project doing?

How about a half-wet pour? Enough water to kick off the thermogenic crystallizing, but not so much that it squishes or lets a metal anchor sink in it? Mixed in more water while it was in the hole. Saved us a whole day of waiting for the cure when putting in anchors for shed posts. We set the posts on the anchors immediately after wiggling the metal anchors into the damp cement. Kept wetting it for a week. No noticeable shift or sinking after placing the posts on top. It’s working great for our horse shed.

Just use normal cement. Why use this new product ??

I'm no genius but I believe that press or the ram is upside down mate. How was that unnoticed?

Nice work

The only dry pour that is actually hard is one that is buried right off the bat. We used a dry pour at the joint between the perforated and solid pipe, when developing springs. I've seen those dams get so hard a backhoe couldn't break it. Exposed dry pours never last. The freeze thaw cycles will turn them to gravel. At least the ones I've tried and seen done by other local folks.

how would this be modified for popcorn ceiling? Do you need to remove all the popcorn ?

Amazing

the dry poor concrete is just fucking retarded , also on the normal one u put 2 much water

My dry pour does not look like sand it looks like it was a wet Pour he said he over watered it, I didn't.

You can get rid of the honeycombing with a vibrator

Great job. I'm impressed.

Please wear a mask when cutting or grinding concrete that stuff is no joke for your lungs brother

How long did you let it set before taking apart?

How would this hold up against moisture?

Nobody even mentioned the fact that it is not even actually mixed

How much for the unit

Well I know now that I will 😅never dry pour lol

Color is useless…smh

I'm in the NE US and I dry-pour for wooden fence posts around my pastures. It pulls a ton of moisture from the ground and the posts always seem to hold really well.

A layman here. This was not at all shocking.

Not to be a nerd but concrete gets it's strength by aligning it's particles and that's done when water is added thoroughly and mixed in, it makes sense that the dry technique is weaker given there no thorough saturation and mixing.

Has anyone used these before? Are they any good? And how do they deal with fluids compared to a normal floor?

I'd argue that dry pour will get stronger over time due to water seepage during rain which will gradually cure the concrete even more

What did you do with the excess line for the refrigerant? Did you leave it coiled up?

Ok everyone, I need some help here. I have a few questions: I currently have a tile floor in my kitchen that needs to be replaced. How do I remove the tiles? What tools do I use to remove the tiles? Then, how do I remove any old mud from the floor that is left? Where on the floor is the ideal place to put the first plank? How far away from the wall do I go in inches? Also, I know the planks need to be staggered. What is the general rule of thumb for what the length is when you cut them in order to stagger them? Finally, after I decide what flooring I am getting and the size of the floor, what is the general rule of thumb of how much excess percentage I need to make sure I have enough for full coverage?

I saw people on KZbin using this dry method in the last few years and just laughed because the outcome is going to be bad, maybe not right away, maybe not in a year, but sooner rather than later this will fail. Why not just use it as intended? You don't need a ton of water and the end result is much stronger.

I loved that you mentioned I don’t have to use a table wet saw !!!! That’s the only thing preventing me because I’m not gonna be one when I’m only using it once. I rather just buy the handsaw.

No guard, no shield and no mask. Are you insane?

The sheep on the internet will believe everything they see on a 30 second video, and they expect it to work, thats even funnier. Dry pouring concrete is just an excuse for being lazy and not wanting to do physical labor, people need to grow up and do things properly.

Excellent video 👌👌

Should i draw a line on the bottom course if i don’t have a laser level? Also, if I’m working with dips in my wall, should i back butter the tile to make up the difference on the wall to help it stay level with the rest of the tile? Did you use a level against the tiles to make sure they’re all flush with each other? Sorry, my brain goes to all the “what ifs” scenarios….

I love the addition of the steel barn doors.

Do they make a concrete putty that you can roll on the outside to help with the edges?

Hi! What kind of doggo is Stella?

Dry pour is clearly a waste of time and materials. I always hated this "hack"

this guy is a fool. but at least you got the water bottle with the hole in the cap. only reason your shit didn't explode.

Dry pour is a waste of time and $$ Takes more time to complete a dry pour than a wet pour also you sacrifice strength and durabolity ....

The thing you’re missing is that you wet the ground under the dry pour before putting it down. It still won’t be as strong but it will be stronger

Will fail, fabric will clog! No fabric on bottom of trench. I have had to repair enough of them.

Oh look, here's an original vid that no one has seen before! Sorry.....just practising my sarcasm.

add cement powder after wetting it to get a perfect finish.

Dry pore was invented by lazy people. And then they have stupid people convinced it’s OK. Lol. Idiots.

How about less talk and stupid "family time" crap and get ti the tutorial.

Geotechnical dentist engineer here, the dry concrete tooth fillings are no good guys.

Thanks for the great video!

It didn't work because you did it wrong, all that misting was just wetting the surface. You didn't give it enough water for the cement to do its thing. Put the concrete in the form, saturate it with the same amount of water you would use in a wet mix, any excess water will be absorbed into the ground. At this point there might be some minner surface mixing needed to work some stones down into the mix, but other than that work it just like regular wet mix concrete. I still would not use it for structural stuff but most smaller flat work should be fine. The dry pour is acually best suited for fence posts, you just dig a hole big enough two sacks of mix, fill it with your post and your concrete, dump 5 gallons of water on it and your done.

Dry pour works best for things like posts. I do all of my posts with dry pour from bottom to six or eight inches from the top and cap it with clay. Dry pour gets better strength when it can slowly extract moisture from the earth. I haven't tried it for slabs but if I do, I will bury them in moist earth until cured. If the dry pour doesn't get enough constant moisture for the catalytic reaction to develop a good gel it will fail to get good cohesion.

With you yes anytime !!❤

God Bless y'all