I absolutely hate to see people using oversized cutting blades on small angle grinders.

It will get much stronger if you wet it very well, keep that mist on it much longer.

You speak English very well 👍🏻

30 years of building fences has taught me to ALWAYS wet pour. Easiest post replacements I do and most common....... Dry tamped concrete.

The irony is I'm watching this video because I'm building a chicken coop lol

Editing error at 8:39. Video is of the wet slab, not the dry. However, you are over talking about the dry slab misting process.

Why no piston into wet pour?

THANK YOU!

Here's your problem. You state that there is no standard for applying water, so you just try something hoping it is right. Instead, the smart thing to do would be to develop the standard. So how would you do that? I have taken an engineer's approach to testing and developing the process. Starting point is the amount of recommended water for a standard wet mix pour. If you know much about wet concrete, you probably know that a "stiff mix" cure stronger than a sloppy ""wet mix". So there is an ideal volume of water for the volume of dry concrete mix. If you are using Quikrete 80lb bags minimum is 6 pints or 3/4 gallon water. Max is 9 pints water. Ideally, you want to end up being near the minimum or slightly above. You can mix your own at a 1:2:3 part blend of cement, sand and stone in that 123 ratio with a 1/2 part water. This is pretty close to the Quikrete mix and if you mix your own, you'll have to calculate based the volume measure use. So once you know how much water to use for the volume of dry mix, how do you measure that? Well, for small dry pours, a garden sprayer can be used. Or you can calibrate a hose sprayer in a 5 gallon bucket by measuring the amount of time per volume of water. This takes a little math, but it isn't rocket science. I recommend using a watering nozzle/wand with a fine mist setting. I find misting as the best way to water, looking for a color change and wetness without any puddling. Of course, this is a judgmental thing, but if you track the time of you calibrated sprayer, you'll know how much water you added. So now let's talk about the watering schedule. There is a channel called CajunCountryLiving and they have done a lot of research on this and they have a pretty good watering schedule. I have taken their method a bit further. I made a test form using plexiglass. You could potentially us a glass baking dish oir an old aquarium to make the same type test mold. The key being that you can see through the sides and the bottom. What you observe in this test mold will tell you what your watering schedule should look like. What I have seen seen when watering with the mist as O have described, is that the water migrates down at about 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch per watering. It takes about 30 minutes for this to happen. At that point it pretty much stops migrating down. Another watering, will take it down another 1/2 inch or so. What is surprising is that this migration is pretty consistent across the slab. So for a 3-1/2 inch slab, you'll need 7 or 8 waterings to fully wet the volume of concrete mix. As a double check, measuring the amount of water you have applied will tell you if you have watered enough. It should be right at or slightly above the calculated amount The watering schedule is critical to dry pour strength. As I have described, it may sound complicated, but it really isn't. Once you learn what proper watering looks like it get prett easy to recognize. It's actually quite easy, but takes some time to get through the complete schedule. Avoid a temptation to shortcut it. I have tested this using the sam method and results are much better than you achieved and very comparable to wet pour. As for color and finish you can improve it. The reason it looks different is that in a wet mix, the fine particles migrate toward the surfaces and typically, when you finish a wet pour, you work the wet slab to "bring the cream" to the surface. In dry pour, aggressive screeding brings the fines to the surface, You can also add a light dusting of 1 part cement to 2 parts sand, mixed together. Dust it on top after screeding like dusting powdered sugar on to pastry. Before beginning the misting/watering cycle. take a dry paint roller and roll it over the surface lightly. This step evens and smoothes the fines. Be careful to use a very light mist initially to wet but not wash off the fines! So the 2 most important keys to a successful dry pour are #1. Closely following a precise watering schedule over time. If you start to see evidence of puddling on the surface, you are over watering! Trust the schedule because you can't just guess on the migration of the water into the dry mix slab. It takes some time to happen. You can't tell by looking at the surface to know the dry slab is fully wetted. #2 is to screed aggressively enough to push down the stone and bring fines to the top, If you use the dusting trick, it will help. This creating a fine layer of the "1 and 2" part of a 123 mix. Do not use a mortar mix toping as some suggest because mortar mix has lime in it and it ca effect the curing. Most dry pour videos do not really cover watering adequately and precise watering is key to success! There is a judgmental factor in grasping what "light watering" means. It's subjective and how you water makes a difference. Being able to measure or calibrate it, makes this part of the process more consistent. Another fail cause besides not watering correctly, is trying to "fix what doesn't look right"!! You are better off to forget everything you know about wet pouring concrete before you start!! It's a different process, so don't expect it to look the same!! Do not get tempted to try "fixing the surface" once you start watering!! There are a lot of videos of experienced concrete guys trying dry pour and it almost always fails because their minds are locked it wet pour. Knowing how wet pour works and looks, is a handicap when doing dry pour. Once you get the feel for dry pour and truly understand the process, it gets easier because you know what to expect. No need to pre-wet the ground. You don't want the dry mix pulling water up. You wet from the top down, and you can put down plastic sheet if you wish. Quikrete works pretty good and some "big box" economy mixes may behave a bit differently. I actually prefer my own 123 mix using #11 crushed limestone. I think it bonds and cures a bit better than pea gravel mixes. But you pretty much need a mixer to prepare the dry mix. It can save some money over pre bagged mixes, but you need to be able to deal with the individual components. I'm not going to say that dry pour is exactly as good as wet pour. But for a simple slab upt to about 4 inches it's less labor and more than adequate. You just need to get the watering right. Of course, you need to get the water right making wet mix too!

Watching this house come apart you really appreciate how well built houses used to be. That house is a stud.

Hell 18 inch thick driveway can crack after a wet pour dries, i have seen that, and all they parked on it was a 10 wheeled tractor. With no trailer. It's a wonder dams dont fall apart faster.. They say it truly takes 100 years for concrete to fully cure. They say in the middle of hoover dam, still has wet cement inside

Why nut use AIRCRETE WITCH IZ even WORSE

I dried poured a sidewalk next to my driveway and a backyard patio. They are holding up just fine for human traffic. Your dry pour did not look like mine. I will not do a dry pour going forward. I recently extended the patio and the wet pour finish just looks soo much better.

You mean i still have to lift heavy bags ?? LOL 😆😆😆

Probably ok for a walkway nothing heavy on it cheap easy for wife diy project by her flower bed

Thanks for this video. There are plenty of DIY folks that swear by the dry pour method. I don't, I just wet pour. For me it just seems easier

should try submerging the dry pour in water. theoretically it could never cure unless submerged,

I've been doing dry pours for years except I mist mine heavily during the bag dumping process. Keeps the dust down and has held up better than a complete dry pour with wetting lastly.

Can’t sell me on dry pour! I need control over the finish and making sure the cream is on top and air is forced out. Your small slab had a very unfinished look on the dry pour….not good…not meant to be done this way. Thank you so much for this comparison you solidified my suspicion. Really enjoyed this 👍🇺🇸

I dont think anyone thinks dry is better than wet. But thats not the point people do it. They do it because its easier, can usually be done by one or two people and a hell of a lot cheaper than having something done by a pro. All of these reasons I did it for a little outside patio. $850 bucks but was quoted by a pro for $3500.

It’s so sad that we have to do videos like this people have no common sense anymore.

It doesn’t matter is it “cures” for a year if you don’t give it the adequate amount of water. Your dry pour never received enough water to hydrate. Most people mist it twice and then flood it once the surface can handle the water without showing water marks. You misted yours 7 times not allowing it to thoroughly hydrate. For this to have been a real “experiment,” they should’ve received the exact same amount of water.

Are there really idiots out there that think dry is a way to install concrete with strength

Maybe it you removed the forms in 24 hours or so like a regular slab. That may make a small difference. I built a deck several years and for the post I filled the post hole with water and sprinkled in the cement and stirred with a small stick of wood. Still there a working great. Great video.

I've never actually heard anyone claim that dry pour was as strong as wet pour. Is this really a thing? In all cases I've seen, people have used dry pour for small load applications like walkways and such.

quikrete 50lbs fast set is designed for dry pouring. But you have to use the correct amount of water just like mixing. Thats where you went wrong

I guess everyone who did dry pour never had a bag of concrete get wet. no need to test if you ever had a bag get wet you would know you can pick it up and drop it a few times and it will break apart

Strange no safety guard on your angle grinder😮

Grandma used to say “sure ain’t easy being lazy”. Dry pour is a trend a couple started and everyone is jumping on the wagon to get the YT views. I look at the dry pours like some of these 30 days flips I saw on Zillow during the pandemic…. Garbage

That is super cool

Don't dry pour anything but a fencepost.

After watching for 2 minutes ive come to the realization that in gonna need to hire a professional.

Not sure if this is the same answer from your wife’s question but what about walls with a lot of texture? How do you ensure even elevation from the wall surface? Hopefully that makes sense. My walls have a lot of texture.

Just don’t understand why dry pour is a thing to begin with. The only thing you save is the mixing time at the beginning, but all that repeated misting and wetting afterwards eat that up during the curing process. It just seems like it started as someone’s excuse for been lazy on the job.

okay but there's so many different wetting techniques. That could be a factor. It would also be nice to know what it's "good enough" for. As a solo DIYer dry pooring has a significant advantage in no real timer being set to get it done.

I am not saying dry pour is better than the wet pour but you did a terrible job on the dry pour one. I assume it was on purpose to show how much worse dry pour looks.

wear a mask working on concrete brotha. save them lungs

4-5 guys doing it in a 10 hour day means it's still 40-50 man-hours. Which supports your calculations of how long it will take to DIY as well

1st-ly, I love this video comparison! 2nd, I think that I will use dry pour for all small jobs: the shed base, AC base, water pump room, anything small. I feel that the money, time, and ease of use out weigh the cons with small jobs. Now any foundational slabs for a garage, workshop, and home let go wet. Thanks for the video. PS, there are a lot of videos on dry pour and the different manufacturers don't give a whole lot of instructions. But, if you compile the instruction to make your own master list of what to do and how to work with DP, you get a winning combination. ty

Do you have a video about crack repair in a popcorn ceiling?

Cant let the chemicals to react if no water

Why not use plastic zip-ties rather than steel wire? I guess it would be useless to discuss a dust mask.

Dry pour is only a thing because of KZbin and lazy home owners. Please stop the fad it’s ridiculous…

How long did u let the dry sit. Supposed to be 48 hours

Saw a dry pour video didn’t see any sand color at all. Looked just like regular concrete. It truly just depends what ur needs r.

Too many commercials.

Just as I suspected. Dry pour is garbage. With a wet poured driveway, if it is placed and finished by professionals, that means rebar, dobie blocks, expansion joints, wet the substrate, vibrate the air out of the mud, etc., your good to go. You can't just dump dry concrete and mist it, that's ludicrous.

Great video! I like how you said to use closed toe shoes to put the lawn chimcals on but you are wear crocks

... thats a product you can sell. Great job! 👍

They must have dry poured ½ the concrete bridges in Quebec 😅 that would explain why there falling apart