Alright….thanks for the information.

@@64KarmannGhia ha ha ha… I’ve got a dozen from scouting. I even have scouting videos waaaaaay back. I have one green mug marked with my wood badge class, powder horn, Vigil Name, Top shot, 100 year anniversary and other camp outs… It’s put away for my grandchildren to discover.😄

@@64KarmannGhia but… never been to Philmont

It’s my opinion that too many people pay too much money for new….. worthless parts. Often Chinese, they “look” good…. And that’s where it ends. Many times to 50 plus year old German part and be rehabbed and work perfectly.

😄

@@OkFixerRight on! No substitute for OEM stuff. The quality of replacements has absolutely suffered over the years.

@@vayabroder729 ooof…. I read my auto correct message… sorry

Hope you enjoy it.

Wow, the starters and more involved than the generator. I took my 6v apart to clean and lube it. Same thing with the long bolts there is small spaces for them to go back in right. I had to put shrink sleeve on one of the wires inside that was exposed and did the grd wires too. That clutch disk super small

@ yeah, the starter has a lot of parts… fortunately I didn’t have any left over… ha ha ha Good on you… repairing your generator instead of buying a new one. 😄

I was testing it wrong and thought it was no good. So it's clean now inside and out. Did it on a video last summer and tested the coil too. Hopefully the regulator is good. Not sure how to test it? I know if it's not charging the battery when running it isn't working.

@ I’ve taken a regulator apart, a time or two. But usually the regulators… I’ve never had a problem with them. The only problem I’ve ever had with the generator was bearings or brushes. And that’s about it they last forever it seems.

Brian, Yes…that seems to be a nice engine. I probably will just take it apart and clean things up. Problem is all the sludge inside. I don’t know what it will look like until I open it up. That being a B case engine, it’s going to go into the green beetle in the back yard. My next project.

Buy another while you still can….take a trip down south and pick up a survivor. 😄

Thank you

1965 was still 1200cc 40hp

@@martyp7134 yes, you are correct

Yes, I believe to get around? Some law probably…..probably the law against fun….

@@OkFixer Big engines, big taxes fees. Small engines, cheaper fees. From what I have learned.

@ same way in Russia… $100 import tax for every 100cc…. So each liter is $1000 passed 1700 cc. So a 5.3 Tahoe …. About $3600 import tax.

@@vayabroder729 Happy New Year to you also.

@@johnfreeman1189 thank you

@@TimsWorkshopTJY I don’t know what they look like or how that set up works. You might try aircoolin.com or write to Musti1 or MX5150 on KZbin. They might know.

Will do, i just got done watching your video and you crack me up. That was a great "Will it Run" can't wait for your next video. Oh I lost out on the free engine but there will be more and I'll probably be more ready to jump on it next time

@@TimsWorkshopTJY always another one around the corner…..I’m kicking myself now….because I could have gotten almost everything in that building for ….another $200? About 6 engines

@@mamabearandpapabear4689 ha ha ha!

@@steveladner4346 They are quite a clever design.

@@brianallen9810 The problem is the marks on the pulley. There isn’t a number 1 mark on the pulley… just two close together marks. I will have to investigate this engine. It has mustache lug holes in the rear for a bus. “B” cases, I thought were dual relief 1600 , 1970 engines… apparently they aren’t all that way. And , yeah I will probably mount that on my stand.

@@OkFixer None of the pulleys have a "one" marked on them...just a couple of notches, the one farthest left is usually the 0 degree mark. There is also a notch mark on the rim of German distributors ( don't know about Chinese ones ) that coresponds to the #1 cylinder, the rotor should point to it. The distributer can be installed 180 degrees out but you should not do that as the cam lobe for the #3 cylinder is cut slightly different than the other 3 lobes.

@@brianallen9810 Yes…I understand there isn’t a physical -1- on the pulley. The two engines I just featured had 2 marks….both of them about a degree apart. Really close. If I look at other engines with 2 marks about a half inch apart….or 3 mark pulleys. I can easily tell which mark ( the one to the left) is TDC. Ok, when working with these last two engines, there WASNT…..any TDC mark. Because had there been a mark, it would be exactly 90 degrees clockwise from the crank woodruff key holding the pulley on. Volkswagen didn’t make different 69 mm cranks, and every one I’ve ever worked on, had the TDC mark 90 degrees from the keyway. And ….yes….of course there is a timing mark for number one on the rim of the distributor. I will send you a photo of the pulley.

@@jimmywilkinson9190 yeah that’s a good candidate for overhaul.

Nice. Sometimes they get a torrential rain, and fill up with water where the oil that is in them…floats and protects the cylinders. It happend to the car I’m currently working on. I managed to bust it loose and make it run. Let me know if you get it, what the numbers under the generator stand are.

Sending a picture but to your email. Looks like I need it to send the picture

@@SanDiego_VDubLife I live in Oklahoma…. Hence the name…OK fixer

@@OkFixer Oh awesome. Not sure if you are the same person, but I found you from another younger youtuber who you helped fix his engine and vw. He was new to vws. Maybe it's another guy or maybe I didn't realize he was in oaklahoma. I assumed he was in southern cali. whoops.

Nope, I only work on single port engines…..have you checked aircoolin.com?

@@OkFixer No I haven't, only the samba. but thanks for the lead I will check them out.

@@vintage76vipergreenBeetle yeah I thought so, and I hope they do

@@TimsWorkshopTJY if you don’t have a flywheel on the engine..(this sets the end play and keeps the crank in one place) if it’s not on the crank will walk and the distributor drive gear will bind and not allow it to turn

@@TimsWorkshopTJY so not having shims in place and a flywheel kept it from spinning freely

Ok, good to know. When i first got this engine with the long block parts needed i didn't notice he gave me a 36hp flywheel so had to go back to get the 40hp one. Totally different. I also got the 36hp carb without an electric choke but will keep it for a known good testing carb and will get the correct 28pic 1 with the electric choke

@@TimsWorkshopTJY I’ve never had an old engine apart. It would be neat to look inside a 36 or 40 hp engine. Just the tiny clutch I found on this 65-6 engine amazed me.

I tore my 40 completely apart and checked for cracks and measured everything. I was amazed that even though it had a blown out piston from a ring breaking it was still rebuildable. Not so optimistic on this one i just found on marketplace but worth getting since free for a teardown video but mainly for parts

Very nice!

I also found another good HE in that pile of parts, that was original German. A whole bunch more I found stuffed in a square back, but had all been subjected to the elements, and all rotten.

You're right about that.

It looks good actually, and yes…I did find it in the trunk.

I like them, because they are easier to find than the dual port engines, make nearly the HP and I know how to work on them. 😄

@ you cracked me up with the unburdened by what has been comment 🤣. Happy New Year to you and yours!

@@vayabroder729 …..some things you hear, that actually come out of people’s mouth in the circus, you just can’t forget. Like…you know….the thing.

You can use pistons and cylinders for 1500 and 1600 on them. Not sure if AA offers sets for 1300/1500 displacements.

@@vayabroder729 Looks like 1300cc NOS top end parts, are available.

I’m going to take that apart New Year’s Day. I’m not really interested in rebuilding it right now, simply plying my mechanical skills to see if I can change that one rod, cylinder and piston. I have a useable rod, and a friend of mine has a jug and piston for a 1300. See, I have to use a 1300 set up, because all the rest are 1300 and it would be hopelessly unbalanced if I use one 1600 jug and piston. But…we will see, I haven’t got it apart yet.

Take your time

@@vintage76vipergreenBeetle thank you and merry Christmas/happy new year to you also.

Thank you

That era I think is the best. Then new 1300-1500….65-69 engines.

Thank you

Yeah people will say anything. I can’t understand why VW would change their recipe for magnesium on THAT year, and of course the answer is… they didn’t. I think storage is a factor, as well as road salt. I like the people who say…. You have to buy a new case because that’s not going to be any good. Well, depends on its life. And where it was stored. Or there isn’t any good original engines… sorry, there are lots of them. “But they are 40 years old “……and? People amaze me. Thanks for being here 😄 and commenting.

That’s great… always nice to have another engine.

@ yes. I have been working on vws for twenty years and have always been scared to try an engine build but with KZbin I have more confidence now to try it. I also have confidence to do an entire car pan off resto including paint. All from watching others do it on youtube. I didn’t even realize I had a 1500 case until recently. I made it a 1641 with dual port intakes and 044 heads and dual 34 carbs. The engine has very little power but it still runs so leaving it for now while I practice on this second one. I wanted it cuz it’s a bus case for my bus. I eventually wanna buy a new case and build a 1904 engine. But gotta make more money to afford that dream 😄

@ look around… find someone’s stash. Most of the time those five or so engines stuffed into a bus in some ancient graveyard were put there because they were good engines. And totally rebuildable blocks. I see you have a bay window on your site. What you need if you’re going to build a dual port engine is an AK or AE? Block, dual relief oil pressure… and use the bigger fan and dog house oil cooler. I like to follow the Bentley book for building engines. Thanks for the comment and good luck.

Yeah,,, right huh? Can’t get any better than that. 😄👍

@@saabman7172 no, it’s my own color from dribs and drabs collected from paint shops

@@benntn yes, they are supposed to… many have been removed for cleaning and never replaced or put back

Thank you

Thank you, and happy thanksgiving giving to you

@@nitebug2424 those are the best years IMO

@OkFixer Agreed

And happy thanksgiving to you also sir

@@vintage76vipergreenBeetle don’t know yet.

@@mamabearandpapabear4689 it’s come a long way

@@vayabroder729 thanks, I will look into that

Thank you

Thanks

Naaa nothing that special. It’s just little bits I get from various body shops….dumped into a bucket and mixed up. If it’s too dark, I lighten it….free paint is great.