NO NEED FOR DISCONNECTING BATTERY?...I WAS TOLD REPAIRS LIKE THIS NEED TO DICONNECT BATTERY TO RESET COMPUTER....NO?

Do you think it’s necessary to change the connector also or is the sensor itself normally the problem?

Great video. The hardest part is definitely getting the old one disconnected, but once out it takes only a couple minutes to swap in the new one. Patience and persistence. One word of advice, go with the 1/2" drive deep socket. I originally tried 3/8" drive because all of my extension bits are 3/8, but learned it wasn't deep enough. After a trip back to the store for the 1/2 socket and an adapter I was back in business.

Thank you for taking the time to post this video. The temp gauge went to the bottom, and the AC turned off. My family and I were very uncomfortable driving her up to college. I found this video and was able to do the repair in the parking lot. I suggest a deep well 3/4 1/2 drive socket, 10” extension , and 1/2” drive wrench along with a 1/2 inch universal socket adapter to handle the odd angle. $22 duralast sensor and all tools purchased at AutoZone. I’ll return the tools as I won’t need them until the next time. 20min repair

Thanks! Great video

Very good video thanks

Did you have to reprogram after the replacing?

Great job explaining how the tab works SO helpful, thank you!!!

Where can I order it from? Which site?

Any tricks to get it to come loose afraid to break it trying to get it loose

I tried this and completely shattered my mirror. Might’ve been retaining clips that should’ve been removed, did not see in video.

Thanks for the video! Im sure you saved me a bit of money and a headache lol. 👍🏽

I am looking at replacing my throttle body. I was getting 19 mpg (highway), low power, eratic shifting, stabilitrak and traction control errors with a flashing CEL that would go off and not set a code. Sometimes it would set a P0300. I cleaned the Throttle body and it cleared right up; for a half a day. I got up to 25 MPG highway (Carlsbad, NM to Roswell, NM, it's 90 or so miles 70-75 MPH most of the way). On the way back, within a few minutes of starting back, it set off the error messages again. The next day, today, I went another 90 mile trip. It set off the messages and power and shiting were terrible. I pulled over at a rest area removed the snorkel and cleaned everything again. It cleared right up, mileage went up, and shifting was perfect. I know the throttle body didn't get filthy dirty on the first 90 mile trip. I can't think of what can be wrong. Unless my manually moving the throttle body butterfly has something to do with it. Opinions?

Whomever edited this and directed it should win awards

Wow, great productions!

Best program and cohort!!! Go blue!

go blue!!!!

This video is so good

Nice work guys. Good luck!

Amazing -EC

With the epoxy it will never be an "easy fix" again.

Thank you ❤️🙏🏾

This was spot on and I did it myself instead of paying the dealer a few hundred. Thanks so much!

Great video, helped make this an easy replacement and repair!

What air code was it sending you

Does a faulty temp sensor also effect the AC?

How did you come to this conclusion? I have the same car, and when I’m between 20-40 miles an hour, it stutter. I’m guessing it might be the throttle body sensor.

I just tried to pry out the mirror from my 2013 MKX, ended up breaking the 4 retainers holding the motor to mirror. I noticed there were tabs that should've been pried up so the motor round bracket could be detached from the back of the mirror.

Hey man, thanks for the vid. How long before your temp gauge returned to normal?

I’m curious how long does it take you start to finish on this repair?

Do you think these same instructions will work on an MKS..?... My mirror has the same exact problem... I never knew why it faded.. I thought I used bad window cleaner...

Is it the sensor if the temperature gauge continues to climb up to 260?

JR, You saved me big bucks and a week without a car for my wife. Thank you! I only cut my hand twice and made a mess of the dang red tab, but it's back together and the problem is solved.

Lastly, is it necessary to clear the codes after?

Thank you for the presentation, can you please tell me how long this operation takes to install?

Would this work if the temp is going high? Like maybe the 170 mark?

Does doing this give you 7 years of bad luck?

Thanks my friend.. Right on.

YOU are Da Man!!😂 I am changing that sensor now in my Traverse and didn't want to bust the connector. all other videos skipped how the connector worked. But yours was thorough!!! Thanks

hi I have a 2012 GMC Acadia having some problems with my AC. My AC temperature reads at 2:10 but it's still not blowing out cool air what else do you think it could be

Any advice uninstalling the burner? I just got my new ones and looks like they just slide right in. But I Am leaking gas from the port?

Does your traverse cooling fans kick on at a low speed soonest you start the car or did they kick on a certain temp. Thank you.

Thanks for the video. Just finished the job on my Enclave. Who knows what the dealership would charge!

How big of a socket? I know I need a deep one, but how big?

Should I disconnect the battery to erase the code before putting the sensor in

Very helpful! I was wondering what socket, specifically, do I need to pull old sensor out? None of my sockets are quite deep enough to allow me to start removing sensor. Thanks!

Thanks, man. This was really helpful. The details about the tab and how it fits on the sensor saved me a ton of fumbling around.

Anything's possible when you have enough socket extensions. :-)

Best video so far good explanation really helped me!

Thanks for the video! Did you have to drain any coolant before removing the sensor?