Thank you very much! This is a pattern I created and at this time it is not for sale and I just have it in cutout cardboard form. I will say that you will find that if you went ahead and studied the video I am sure you will be able to come up with a pattern very similar and you will be thrilled that you did it on your own. The sides and the gusset and the main body will have the same amount of holes. One extra hole on each side on the main body to really lock in the gusset. Give it a try. If you are not used to making patterns, remember, everyone starts that way. Enjoy the process. Thank you.

Thank you for the kind words! I bought it on Amazon. Here is a link: amzn.to/3Vjb5i5 .

Thank you very much! The song must of appealed to me since I used it for the last song. It has a great melody. Thank you for pointing that out. :)

great idea. :) As long as when you scuff the aera without changing the shape of the embossing (which seems very capable of being done). I think scuffing could only help with any sticking issue. On the most part, the paste not sticking is hardly ever an issue, but any idea that improves the technique is worth doing. I am making another octopurse right now. I will scuff this time and let you know if it improves the technique. Thank you for your input.

@baronleathercraft maybe a wire brush? And more passes less pressure?

They also have a billiard cue aerator. It's used on leather pool tips. Could use light pressure and a twist. The twist will do wonders when you see what a billiard cue aerator is, that is, if you dont know what it is. Don't twist on a cue though it will rip through it if it's soft.

@@nothenyes2527 Actually I use a tandy tool that is made just for scuffing leather. It is the craftool leather rougher. I did it last night and it did help. Plus this time I added more rubber cement and the mix came out like creamy peanut butter and work much better.

Thank you very much for the kind words! Enjoy!

Thank you very much! Embossing leather just looks really cool to me. Adding 3D to any art seems to make it pop. :) Thank you for the kind words.

I personally found that more passes cause more soot from the smoke. that is my experience. Thank you. :)

@baronleathercraft interesting thanks. Mine should get here today.

My Pleasure! I love sharing this kind of information. Embossing leather is fun and it makes the craft really take on another look. :) Thank you...

Thank you very much! I love your comment. I try my best to share the information in a way that truly teaches. That way you can enjoy making patterns without getting to frustrated. Thank you again!

I have not done it but... Yes, you can make rubber stamps with a 10-watt diode laser, but there are some important considerations and tips to ensure success: Materials Laserable Rubber Sheets: Use rubber specifically designed for laser engraving. Regular rubber might produce excessive fumes or not engrave cleanly. Non-toxic Options: Ensure the material is safe to laser, as some rubber may release harmful fumes. Settings Power and Speed: Diode lasers generally require slower speeds and higher power settings to engrave deeply into rubber. Start with test cuts to determine the ideal settings for your material. For engraving: Use higher power (e.g., 80-100%) and slower speeds. For cutting: Multiple passes may be necessary due to the material thickness. DPI/LPI: Use a high DPI/LPI (e.g., 300-400) for better detail, as stamps require sharp and precise engravings. Image Mode: Set the image to a negative mode in LightBurn or your laser software, so the engraved areas become recessed. I hope this helps. let me know how it turns out. Enjoy!

Lets assume that you have everything selected, pockets and holes. If they are not grouped. If everything selected hold down shift and then click on the object that you do not want to be selected. It should release that object. So if you have all the holes and the pockets selected, hold shift down and click on the pocket to release it and then drag, it should not drag the pocket with it. Let me know how it goes.

the stitch lines won't separate no matter what I try...so I can easily drag the pocket by itself once duplicated, but I have to select the entire stitch line around the wallet or the pocket is just duplicated without the stitching holes. I even tried converting the stitching holes to curves hoping it would allow. It's super easy in Light burn to ungroup and select whatever stitch holes you want. I'm not sure that's possible in Affinity

@@baronleathercraft 27.44 in this video - you've got each pocket separated including the stitching holes, which all you needed to do was select the section, duplicate and it's done. That's what I am trying to do in Affinity and not sure how to do it since the holes won't allow to be separated

@@Shoresupply when you say the stitch line won't separate, do you mean they won't become individual holes or it will not separate from the pocket. I just trying to understand so I can help. what happens if you go to Layer, Geometry. divide with the stitching hole layer after converting to curves on the stitching line. can you manipulate it better at that point?

@@Shoresupply ah, yes you can separate them in affinity. take the stitching layer and go to layer and then to "convert to curves" then return to the layer section and go to geometry and then divide, and they will become separate holes. let me know if this helps.

Awesome! so glad that the videos are helping! The dye works great, anyone who engraves slate should use it in my opinion. I think your craft in the video looks great! If there are any mistakes in it only you can see them. I love the look. How did you get the brownish color around the birds? Plus, it looks very 3d. Thank you!

@@baronleathercraft It's copper with some brass black. I electroplated some nickel on the birds. I think most black is from when I re-dyed it lol When I re-engraved I just put a metal mask over the birds so as not to lase off the nickel or blacked areas. Thanks Jdee

@@Rwebsite I think it looks great and you used some unique ideas. That is the thing with crafts, it might not of been what your vision was but to a person that gets to view the craft , they see it without any filter. I think it looks really cool. I gave it a thumbs up. :)

@@baronleathercraft Thanks I did woodgraining on old cars for 25 years had to fix some old glove box door hinges and found the nickel plating brush kits online great for small metal parts. Fun stuff We would do shows at Hershey PA and I could see every little thing I did not like on my woodgraining displays, you are right we see what we don't like in our own work. Most don't

It makes me so happy to hear stuff like this! Thank you so much. :) I just get a kick out of sharing information that helps share happiness. Enjoy!

I completely agree with you! I used to rely on Adobe Illustrator for creating patterns, but the monthly subscription costs were adding up quickly-especially since making patterns really only requires the most basic features of such a powerful program. When I saw Affinity Designer on sale, I decided to give it a try, and I’ve been so impressed! The one-time fee is such a relief, and I actually prefer it over Illustrator for pattern design. That said, one feature Affinity currently lacks is the ability to trace an image and convert it into a vector. For that, I’ve started using Inkscape, which is a free program. While it’s not as advanced as Illustrator’s image trace tool, it gets the job done for my needs. I’m hopeful that Affinity will eventually add this functionality-it would make the software even better!

Very kind thank you! You will be leather crafters that are able to use modern tools to help craft your own ideas. :) Enjoy!

I really do not engrave wood very often since I mostly work with leather. Plus, each piece of wood will engrave a little different so you should always do tests if possible and then dial it in.

Yes, Thank you for the info. I am aware. Drawing a rectangle is an approach I used to use with an older version of lightburn and as far as far as filling or contour, I like to fill the holes if I am not going have the laser cut them out because sometimes I dye the leather before I punch out the holes and I am able to see the holes better. It is just a preference that I like.

I use Barge Contact Cement.

Awesome! Thank you for taking your time out to let me know you enjoyed the video!

Thank you. I agree. I have not been adding it to my latest videos.

Thank you very much!

Спасибо за ваш комментарий и за то, что поделились своим мнением! Очень приятно услышать разные взгляды на дизайн. Когда я выбрал(а) череп для портмоне, моя цель была создать что-то с легким оттенком дерзости и индивидуальности, но при этом не привязываться строго к какой-то одной теме, например, к рокерской или байкерской культуре. Хотелось, чтобы этот рисунок мог понравиться разным людям и легко интерпретировался по-разному. Мне понравились ваши идеи - скелет с гитарой или надпись добавили бы веселую изюминку! Ваше мнение для меня ценно, и я обязательно буду его учитывать для будущих проектов. Спасибо еще раз, что оценили мою работу и поделились своими идеями!

I have only created one circle bag and I understand the trouble you are running into. I do not have enough experience in your issue but I did run into a chart at one point that did share the math for your situation but I am not able to find it again. With that said, I did ask Chat GPT but when I copy and paste the answer in this comment section it is not able to copy the math symbols to make it readable. I asked " what would the formula be to create a stitch line on a straight edge that matches with a stitch line of a circle? " It gave a very complete answer. It could not hurt to try ChatGPT. I use it all the time. Very helpful. I wish I was more helpful in this situation. Sorry. :) ​

@@baronleathercraft Thank you so much. It's a starting point. I'll run it through GPT and see what it gives me. If you ever find that chart, would you please provide the link? Thank you so much

@@FunTimesMan4 yes, I am still looking for it. Plus if you tell chatgpt that you have affinity design it will give you directions on how to do it in that program. At least it thinks it is telling you correctly, and it might.

In this case I did not. This was my first time engraving metal and I am surprised how nice it came out since I did not add a coat of black temper paint. Now when ever I do engrave metal I airbrush a coat of black temper paint. Thank you for the question.

That is great news! Actually I might understand because that is why I set out to figure out how to do it. I wanted to be able to not have to trace every pattern on to the leather and then have to swivel cut it and then tool it. I figured, there must be a way to save time and the laser traces much better then I would ever be able to. I knew this was information I had to share knowing many people would feel the same way I do. By the way, InkScape is a free program that also has this tracing ability. It is not as good as Illustrator but does the job and it is free. So glad it helped you. I am working right now on more videos that deal with lasers and pattern creating.

Have you played with the idea of cutting the patterns deep enough to replicate and eliminate swivel knife?

@@sunnyd1715 yes, it can be done but I was not happy with the outcome as much as using the swivel knife. I also did not spend to much time adjusting it to give it a real good test. If you do experiment with this, please let me know your experience and opinions and technique. :)

Thank you very much!

Thank you for the question. I have engraved anodized aluminum and stainless steel but with metals, a more powerful laser is best. Ultimately a fiber laser is really what you want for metal. They are costly. :) When I engrave glass I will use an airbrush to coat the glass with black temper paint to get best results but that is the technique that I like. There are other ways to coat the glass. Yes, I have had success engraving glass with this machine.

Thank you very much!, As you know, you do not have to sand the slate to use the dye. I like to sand the larger slates because I like the look but on the most part I do not sand the coasters. Thank you again!

Thank you so much for your feedback! You have some awesome toys to play with! I would love to have an IR laser. I would love to engrave metal. Some of that stuff is very cool. Thank you for your support!

Thank you very much! I love to hear that, I try to inform with my videos. It is fun for me. Enjoy!

Are you coating it with rtc or any other kind of resist after you let it dry? If not that is what needs to be done. Thank you for pointing out that I left that step out of the video. Doh! I can't believe I left that out. I see that was one of my first videos/shorts. I guess I was excited and totally missed that. Thank you for pointing that out. I think I have to make a new one now.

@@baronleathercraft I have been using resolene, but maybe not enough. My first attempt with 3 coats left it almost tacky... kind of, sort of. When it sits for a while it kind of sticks to whether surface it's on. I need to pick through your videos and see if I can find anything about applying the sealer. This video was great. I am very new, and use it for some type of faux leather. I'm engraving bibles. Trutone, I think. Anyway, the results look great with only the antiquing paste. Theme for any useful information, and thanks for this short!

@@johndavis3894 Resolene is good stuff. I have not used it for this purpose but it should do the trick. 3 coats does seem too much. I have found Tan-Kote or RTC resist works for me. I prefer RTC. I just give it one coat after it dries. The longer you can let the antique past dry the better. If you can wait till the next day would be best.

@@johndavis3894 I forgot to press show more so I missed some of your message. Thank you very much for the kind words! Leathcraft is a lot of fun and leather engraves very well. I have never used faux leather. Is it safe to engrave?

@@baronleathercraft excellent, I'll give that a try. Thank you.

That is an awesome idea. That would definitely work. Yes, so far so good with the splitter.

The Deft top coat not only gives the slate a nice shine but also helps seal the dye. Without a top coat, I noticed the dye takes longer to dry and can easily transfer to other surfaces if touched, even after a significant drying period. For example, the dye may rub off on your fingers while handling it. Letting it dry for an extended time might help, but using the Deft coat allows me to start engraving within about 10 minutes without any transfer issues. It does look great with just the dye but you might have to let it dry longer and keep giving it a finger or paper towel test. :) Let me know how it goes. :)

@@baronleathercraft Thanks so much for your time. I do have lacquer gloss and matt. I will give it a go. Thanks again Jdee

@@Rwebsite Let me know what you used and how it worked when you get a chance. I am not married to the Deft. :) Plus you asked if the slate is fragile. It is fragile with or without the clear coat. Slate is just a fragile material. Don't drop it. :) Thank you for the sub! Enjoy!

@@baronleathercraft Oh I thought the dye might be weak without a top coat. I have a few laser videos on my channel, Just starting with Fiber laser. I have broke slate before LOL Thanks Jdee

@@Rwebsite :) Ok, I understand now. I figured I was misunderstanding. Just checked out your videos and liked them. I would love to have a fiber laser. :)

I love to hear that Matthew! It makes me feel great that I was able to advance your knowledge and expand your abilities! Enjoy. :)

I turn my air assist up about a quarter way when I engrave and I set it to full blast when I cut. I found that when I do not use air assist at all when engraving the engraving comes out dull. It is for that reason I recommend at least a little air assist when engraving. Thank you for your question.😀

Sorry to hear you are having trouble. Let me see if I can help you although it is best to also approach this forum section that is dedicated to TwoTress lasers. forum.lightburnsoftware.com/c/hardware/twotrees/36 plus the twotrees support team. That way you have more minds on your issue. www.twotrees3dofficial.com/pages/contact-us , With that said. Can you go into more detail on what is happening? When you say the laser sound, do you mean the internal fan? Does the beam ever come on? or does it seem to power up and make a sound and then not shoot a laser and just sit there?

Lets see if I can help you. Is the laser attempting to cut vertically or does the laser not admit a bean at all when it moves vertically?

It attempts to cut vertically and it does, but only 50-70% success. Other materials are cut fine

added photos but I don't know where they got added to)))

Some say that because the beam is rectangular, it is slightly less powerful on the y axis. If it was slightly , I would agree. But I ran 2 passes at 840mm/min at 35 power on a job and it cut well horizontally but not vertically. I ran another pass, still didn't get through vertically

@@peterkhokhlov1763 tell me about your laser, what type and what watts?

Thank you for the kind words and for subscribing! 😊 I'm glad the idea of sanding and staining could help you reclaim those coasters. For the AI images, I usually use the free Bing image generator. I save them as .jpg files at 1024x1024, which isn’t a huge size, but they work well for engraving. Once imported into LightBurn, the images automatically convert to grayscale. From there, I use the 'Adjust Image' feature. I enable 'Negative Image' and invert the display. I typically set it to the Jarvis dither mode, raise the DPI to around 317, and fine-tune the image by adjusting the gamma and darkening it quite a bit. Sometimes, I'll also tweak the contrast and brightness, but not always. For finishing touches, I lightly adjust the 'Enhance Radius' and 'Enhance Amount'-just enough without overdoing it. The image might look too dark on the monitor (at least on mine), but it engraves just right! You’ll find what works best for your style as you experiment with the settings. And feel free to ask more questions! I’m always happy to share-no secrets here, just sharing the joy of creating! Enjoy!

Awesome! Glad to share the info. Any questions just ask. :)

Awesome! So glad it helped. I love sharing this kind of info. These are situations I have run into and was sure other people would as well. I am hear to answer any questions I am able to. Just let me know if you need any help. As far as having a 10 watt and a 20 watt, The 10 w is what I use for engraving since I know it will cut, but slower then the 20watt. If I only have to cut, I will use my 20watt. 10 watt laser will engrave better then a 20w. The higher the wattage the less detail. I have a video on it if you did not see it already. kzbin.info/www/bejne/e4PMp52dqtGSfLM

I mostly generate them with an AI website. Like the Vader and Dart Maul image. That came from the Bing image generator. The other image on the thumbnail and the video is from a google search for M.C. Escher, which is one of my favorite artist. I use that one for a sushi plate. The good thing about the Bing AI is that it is free. Hope this helps! Enjoy!

Thank you, I got it at Tandy tandyleather.com/products/craftool-3-d-stamp-hemp?_pos=1&_psq=hemp+stamp&_ss=e&_v=1.0 but I also found it on Amazon. www.amazon.com/Tandy-Leather-Craftool-Stamp-8619-00/dp/B00WCBY6ZA

@@baronleathercraft cool

@@samhernandez1248 My Pleasure! Enjoy!

@@baronleathercraft thanks. Yo gotta say that’s a mean red , gold & green concept.

@@samhernandez1248 Thank you, I was going for a Jamaican Rasta Flag look. Guide I & Eye. :)

Awesome to hear! My goal was to share pitfalls I have run into with people so they would not have to. Sharing is caring. :)

Yes, absolutely. As you said, it works because it is subtle. It does get tricky when you have to create holes on a bag and then match the holes to a gusset. When I do this, I use a different but similar technique without using the balance option. I cut the stitch line into parts and then mirror them to the other side. Your concept of using mathematics is definitely the most precise option. I’ve done this using multiples of 4mm because I prefer that type of stitching iron. I started using the method in this video based on similar findings. It is easier and saves time. I often find myself spending hours behind the computer because I’m too lazy to cut and thong on my own. The laser is so precise as well. :)

Yes, That is what inspired me to figure out how to do this. Why trace it when you can have a laser do it with a much steadier hand then mine. :) You can also do this in inkscape which is a free program. Not as much control but can be done.

The space is very limited with this device. The work space is only 130mmx130mm. This would not be a good choice for engraving those items. If you plan on engraving those items you will need a machine that is tall. Extender legs are able to be bought with most machines, plus you will need a laser engraver rotary. The icube would not be idea. Anymore questions just let me know.

Thank you for your reply and great info😊

@@AndrewJacobsmusic Glad I can help. :)