😂🤣😂

It will not work. It is too small for everything to fit into the press area for it to allow the work to be performed. Sorry to say, the HF 20 ton press is a necessity for this job 👍

@WeekendWrenchTurner wow. Appreciate it 👍

It's most likely the bearings going out. That's where I would have them start with the rebuild 👍👍

There is a part 2 with the ebrake conversion 👍🍻

Check that your springs that hold it in place are still good and it's not loose 👍

We all learn together 👍 Thanks for watching!

That's a ball joint separator: www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html

Thanks for watching 🍻

I just had a mani/pedi, don't judge me, lol 😂🤣. Thanks for watching 🍻

I got the plates from a local metal supplier. They were drops from another customers job that they did. You could also get them from a site like OnlineMetals.com. The sleeve kit I got from Amazon and it's been super handy for other jobs too. Thanks for watching 🍻

@@WeekendWrenchTurner Thanks. Drove around a few hrs in an industrial area looking for plates no luck at the 6 or so shops i asked. Found a place 40 mi away, driving there tomorrow with the scary bearing rumble 1 more time...There is no substitute for these plates unfortunately.

@ishi482 new safe out there 👍

This is true and thank you for adding this comment. I do this because I have lifetime alignments for my truck through Firestone so I always get an alignment afterwards. Should probably do that regardless of whether you move these plates, though that is just my opinion.

If you properly remove these from the control arms, there is no need to get an alignment.

I ended up getting an Evolution Chop Saw and it is an order of magnitude better. This works well going slow, but the Evolution makes a much cleaner cut faster.

@@WeekendWrenchTurner oh):

@@WeekendWrenchTurner how much does the evolution cost?

It is the 14" that I don't see on their site any longer. Paid right around $280 out the door (online).

@@WeekendWrenchTurner ok thnx

A previous test from the person who made these showed that the added leverage was needed in order to firmly engage the Mustang Cobra calipers. I agree too, since it is not possible to lock up the rears with this configuration at all. Good question and thanks for watching 👍

Thank for watching 🍻👍

Heck yeah! Thanks for watching 👍

🤣😂🤣😂

Mucho gracias por favor 👍

Unfortunately, it is no longer available. Check the link in the description as there had been discussion of someone else taking over production. Thanks for watching!

Thx for the reply! I was able to check out that link. What about the emergency break kit? I didnt see a link for that? And when I tried to click on the link in your part two video i didnt pull up… again thx so much!

I very well may have been taken down ☹️

It very well could be your cause. Thanks for watching 👍

@@WeekendWrenchTurner do you think it’ll be ok if I don’t use to reassemble the darn thing? The washer I mean…

Not sure about that. Not sure what the bolt pattern is. Thanks for watching 👍

Lol, you are correct. I like to use force sometimes too much. Thanks for watching 🍻

I'm fortunate to have several metal supply shops near me. Plates like that I can find in the scrap bin for 15¢ a pound 👍 Thanks for watching!

Condenser too*

Absolutely, it will help your compressor life immensely!!

Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching 👍👍

Rock auto likely. Check manufacturer to see if they have oem parts available.

@@TadpoleTrainer Thanks

Thank you @TadpoleTrainer 🍻

LEDs won't "pop" if they are powered in a reverse polarity. Incadensincent bulbs don't have a polarity, so you'd be okay for either one on those 👍

Unfortunately, they are not available as a kit anymore. You could use the link to the T4R.org post and possibly piece a kit together, but the conversion bracket is hard to come by.

They are sealed bearings, so they don't need to be greased up, but I do put a little tiny bit on the outside race to help them go in 👍

@@WeekendWrenchTurner thank you for the reply. I don’t have a press like yours but I could take the bearings out… I have no idea how I will put them back in 🤣

I've found that PartSouq to be the best site to get stuff. You have to plan for shipping though, as even just a few items will cost a bunch to ship.

If you're talking about the one at the 8 minute mark or so, that's the generic harbor freight three jaw puller 👍👍

I believe I was using the impact driver in this video with an adapter for 3/8" sockets 👍

Thanks for watching🤟

It uses a simple yellow RCA connection that most capable head units can use for the signal. Hope that helps. Cheers 👍

@@WeekendWrenchTurner do you know any 7” or 10” dash cam that is compatible with this back up camera. Would you drop the link if you know anyone please? I can’t seem to find one

Having a spare parts bin is a must!! Thank for watching 👍👍

I wish I made these. Could probably make a bit if shipped internationally 😁

@WeekendWrenchTurner what do u mean. I'm in the states, are u not? I went to the forum linky. Me and a friend were thinking about doing this.... thnx for your reply

These are not a product I've ever produced, sorry if that's wasn't clear 👍👍

Thanks for watching 👍

@@WeekendWrenchTurner hey I noticed your rear bump stop what brand are those?

Those are from Sonoran Steel's 3.5" rear end lift kit. Great company to do business with 👍

Yeah, unfortunately these were in short supply originally and I think I made it worse for him 😕

I've found waiting for a few mods/fixes and then ordering from PartsOuq.com makes shipping work out better than my local dealer. Small stuff I just source locally. Good question 👍

Good question. I suppose you could, but it does add a bit of risk for only a little bit of time savings. Not sure how much, but just made sense to do them one at a time for me. Thanks for watching 👍

That's an excellent tip!! I've been printing with PETG lately and I bet it works great!! Thanks for watching 👍

@@WeekendWrenchTurner PETG is a fantastic material for that, there are better materials but they are also way more money and way harder to print, they also release more toxins and so on. When printing a structural part like this make sure the layer orientation is according to the force flow within the part and use wider extrusion widths, so for instance I am using 0.8mm line width with a 0.4mm nozzle. This increases strength through better layer adhesion further. Also increase outer most perimeter instead of infill, the most outer layer is the most load bearing as well, thus hollow round bars etc. exists they are almost as strong as a filled bar but 90% less heavy and expensive. You are most welcome. I intend to use my vise to create small beads perpendicular to the bend lines to stiffen the corner further. This is very useful to increase strength for less weight and less money. I would also try to roll my own hinges, here I am not sure how the 3D print would hold up, maybe with lots of lubrication the print will hold up. Hinges can be expensive and honestly it would be just cool to make my own just for the fun on it. Maybe you can make a video for the hinge rolling or corner beads or some cool stamps and cutouts. You can also print more complex tool designs with moving brake parts for U channels and all sorts of cool stuff. I hope you try some of it out. If the 3D printed part fails there is still the possibility to make a zinc alloy metal cast, zinc melts at about 420°C and I can easily melt and cast that stuff at home on my camping bbq torch xD

Thank you for the great tips!!

Thanks for the kind words! And thanks for watching!!