I'm sorry I don't have that info. Has the trans ever been serviced? If it hasn't these transmissions aren't the greatest. Nor are the torque converters themselves. I would start with checking fluid level, color and smell

@@nsigarage5212 it was flushed at 60k, only started slipping at 100k, I put a pan with a drain plug and I empty it every 5k refill and repeat after 4 dumps (recommended by Scotty Kilmer) I drop the pan and change the filter, I am babying it along, just wondering if it's worth changing the solenoid pack and the tcc, or just bite the bullet and put in a rebuilt with a new torque converter, the van is in mint condition. Thanks

You can also just disconnect the injectors. Or put muffs on and run it. It fills pretty fast

@@nsigarage5212 thanks, trouble shooting low oil alarm with boat in the water (cam up while running offshore today) and didn't know if I have to wait 3 minutes or 30 but that is very helpful, thanks!

That's what mine was doing then I saw the oil

It's fairly similar as far as the setup yes

It's a large bolt so tight, but not soil my pants tight

No idea

I'm sorry but I dont.

So the passanger side is not a 2 peice axle. It goes through the tube alll the way to the diff. The tube has the 4 bolts and a sleeve that fits into the diff with silicone as the gasket so it has to come out like 1.5" before it is free and can be stuck. So it will need to be worked. I suggest removing the tube before unbolting anything else with the diff or else things get jammed up. If you truly can't free the axle from the wheel bearing, I would suggest trying to remove the wheel bearing with the axle. You can also try the whole knuckle and axle assembly but you better have a friend to hold stuff cause it will be HEAVY. Maybe take it to a shop if you don't have an air hammer to just free the axle from the hub. Cause it should like it would save you alot of hassle so step one remove axle by removing the wheel bearing or entire knuckle (be sure to remove the wheel sensor or you might break it. Then tackle the tube if you want by freeing it up, rotating and pulling it out but will come out fine with the diff. The diff does not just drop down and out because of the front mount. Rotate the pinion side down. If you are rebuilding it. The kits don't come with the tube support bearing Spicer 566063 Axle Shaft Bearing B-268 Hope this helps let me know if you need anything else

@@nsigarage5212 thank you for the response. I tried it with an air hammer ended up putting a hole in the axle lol. I had to take the whole axle out of the tube. I’m doing an engine R&R and the engine is locked up so it’s gotta go all out with the torque converter. But thank you very much for the help.

I completely agree with you, these aren't the best transmissions, coupled with their difficulty to be easily service or even fluid level to be checked, they are doomed. I should have showed the pinout test which is what lead me to this video. In this case it did resolve the issue. 70% of the time it needs a converter or a rebuild. But for $125ish in parts and fluid it could save someone alot of money. If it doesn't work then at least that part is fresh for the new converter

The vinegar will leave the surface bare so I would recommend a good UV protectant boat wax. I liked maguires marine wax

@@nsigarage5212ok great thanks !

I do have a shop, I am out of barrington IL

What have you tired? Swap the coil to a cylinder on a differnt side and see if it follows. How does the plug look.

@@nsigarage5212 swapped coils and spark plugs must be dirty injector

Changed all injectors lol… Intake manifold runner position sensor/switch circuit p2014 and also still P0303. Also my ESP or traction control light is on and I just replaced abs shes speed sensors and beanie pedal sensor… looks like it’s steering angle sensor or I need to recalibrate it.

I offten do. This was a break down in the middle of the evening and just had to get it done

Torque converter lock up solenoid Tork konvertörü kilitleme solenoidi

Pull the power to the ignition coils and crank it. It actually fills very fast. Or put ear muffs on it and just run it you will see how quick it actually fills. IF the tank does not fill make sure the air compressor on the motor is not bad, it was a know issue with these motors

@@nsigarage5212would it be ok to fill it with a small funnel? And then fire up the engine and let it bleed out the last bit of air before tightening the cap?

@sicktimefishing yes

Starter solenoid wire. There will be power there when cranking

I have no idea what motor and trans are in it

Start with fluid level

Friend, I was checking better and if I have some codes, I have active p0585, and stored p0716, p0791, p0721, the oil has a good level and is not burned, what could it be?@@nsigarage5212

Friend, excellent video, a question, My 2009 Dodge Journey, 3.5 awd, I put the gears on the selector and it doesn't move even with the wheels raised, if it marks the changes on the dashboard, it doesn't make strange noises, I was checking better and yes I have some codes, I have active p0585, and stored p0716, p0791, p0721, the oil has a good level and is not burned, what could it be?@@nsigarage5212

Alot of these codes are for turbine speed sensor, it should be on the outside of the trans and visible above the Axle shaft. Either the sensor has failed, or the wires are bad. It will not shift if this sensor does not read

@@nsigarage5212 Dave here, I have a code P0869. I was thing it will need the solenoid body assembly and the secondary solenoid while I am doing this. What do you think?

That code is most common with low fluid level

Coolant and oil run through the housing. You don't have to drain all of it, but if you don't when you pull the housing it can fill up the valley and go down the oil feed holes

No I didn't, cause who would think that's a good idea.

Nice

What tools did you use to sneak it out without removing the drive shaft? I have to get mine out asap, and I don't want to remove bolts where I won't need to lol

Just drop it and make it. Easy

@nsigarage5212 got it out, lots of extensions, swearing, and some patience.

I know. It was my first video. It's a bit rough with just a web cam with a 20ft cable to a laptop, however if you would be kind enough to check out some of the other range rover video you will see thst has been greatly corrected

Thank you for watching!

I got OEM parts so they are both MAHL. The old parts where in the drain pain.

What is a oew part

Oem is orginal equipment manufacturer. It's what it came from the factory with, not aftermarket.

Outstanding. Nice work

It's just. Ughhhhhhhhh

fuse from MAF connector? what?

I'm going to start making blooper reels. Like 8 min compilation of the flashlight falling 600 times trying to get the right light for these videos

I was just there to change the thermostat, a 3 bolt 3 min job 🥲

@@nsigarage5212 how to possibly turn a 3 min job into a 3 weeks job 😅😅

Thank you very much. It was one of my earlier videos so the camera work isn't super great. Once you pull the glove box out, it looks cramped but module is actually very easy to slide out. The no power to the idle motor is usually the dead giveaway

And for about $150 and this video you can Do it yourself!

@@nsigarage5212 you that that tight cold now warmer days will be done

?

I've been using it about 4x a week for the past 2 months. Even starts trucks and tractors that are 100% dead, even out in the cold. , trick on those is to get it as close to the starter as you can so the batteries don't take the hit. Alot of our trucks have jump start pegs on the driver frame rail for that. I have been very impressed with it.

@@nsigarage5212 Thanks for your review 👍

Awesome that's exactly what I'm trying to go for. I have one coming in the next week on the front differential removal. And the rebuild following that

Where do I buy these

The brand is Powerflex. I've used them on several different applications over the years and never had an issue

@@nsigarage5212 u just go to there web page cause I have tried in my control arms 4 different brand names and none of them go in all the way for some reason Land Rover suggest I get new control arms but the ones I have are only 21/2 years old

Maybe I'm not understanding what you mean by that, feel free to email me at [email protected] and I can help you more

I didn't change them, just added a little grease, but I believe you just punch them out and tap the new ones in

@@nsigarage5212 it’s for a ford lightning. M112. Someone told me you have to change the whole rotor pack and break the housing? Doesn’t make sense to me. Why would they sell a kit with the bearings and seals for the rotors if you have to buy a new set? Also I was told the rotors have to be in time with each other? I don’t see and markings that suggest that.

I can only see needing new rotors if the bearings are somehow obliterated and the rotors where bouncing around. As far as timing on the m112 I did some looking around and can't find anything, if you were a tooth off I don't think they would mesh and drop in. As far as breaking apart I think he means what I did in the video by cracking the middle section out with the small dead blow after taking the snout off. And they sell bearings as part of some kits because some people just want to refresh it while you are in there

I did this Job years ago but I can't remember

I just had a truck same motor, outside 100% dead 7*f, but on a block heater. I hooked up as close to the starter as I could and it started I did not expect that for it's price point. Project farm did a big shootout which lead me to buy one for me and one for the wife

Thank you very much, I try to be as detailed as I can without dragging the video on forever. I figured putting sealant on the cover would just make a mess. Thankyou again for watching how your repairs go well!