The window adhesive is 3M 10 Ounce Windshield Sealant - 8609. I got mine from my local auto parts store (O'Reilly Auto), but I think you can get it at most auto stores as well as online. Just make sure you get the numbers (8609) correct as there are similar products with different numbers. Here's the link to the O'Reilly's page... www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/3m/3m-10-ounce-windshield-sealant/mmm0/08609?q=8609&pos=2

I was able to just use a box knife on my window as it was improperly installed before I got it and the window was already coming unglued. The proper tool for this style of window would be something like this... www.grtglasstools.com/product/wrd-orange-bat-kit-300-w/ The old school tools will not work on the newer inset glass like the Dakota has.

@jameslambert4487 It's always nice to keep something in the family going a long time. Best of luck with your repairs. I'm glad you found the video helpful.

@elkskiutah8204 Speed and angle will vary with soil type and contents. If it's a nice soft, well blended soil like from a raised bed, you can run pretty fast and steep as it sifts easily. On the other hand, if it's a heavier soil with lots of plant matter, rocks, clay base, etc you will have to run a lot slower and with less angle to allow it to stay in longer to get the most dirt removed before ejecting it out the end. So in a nutshell, there really isn't a "best" angle or speed unless you're only running the same stuff every time and it will be a trial and error to find what works best for your soil and level of acceptance.

@aidantimko3282 Not likely. Probably would break the knuckle in the process. A pick, torch, and possibly a small punch and hammer with lots of penetrant should be able to get the job done, but it will take some time and patience. It can be a challenge if it's super bad. Best of luck!

@@ScanMan79 thanks, I'll see what I can do

Glad you found it helpful!

j​@@ScanMan79

That's great to hear! I'm glad you found it helpful and was able to save some money in the process, too!

Best of luck. Glad you found it helpful.

The main reason for the EMT is for rigidity. On my first cage I didn't have the EMT and the tension of the drive belt caused the wire mesh to break from the repeated flexing and in turn caused the whole cage to fail. On my second cage I added the EMT for more rigidity, and that solved the issue for me.

Yeah, should be very similar if not the same.

@@ScanMan79 thank you

Hello, it will vary between brands and models. On the one in the video it didn't, but you will need to double check yours. If there was one there, there should be at least some ruminants of it as evidence. Thanks for watching!

The bar with the big belt that drives the cage is actually part of the original drive from the treadmill that I just transferred over. The big bar was what the walking belt was driven by. The reasoning for keeping it all together was the pulley on the motor has built-in cooling "fan" for the motor and has a unique belt style that I was unable to find any belts of large size to match. Plus it offers the lower gearing to provide more torque to drive the cage when loaded down. As for the control board, I just carefully opened up the housing to gain access. I don't remember the exact process anymore but I did modify it slightly to remove the unneeded feature, i.e. distance heartrate etc. as I only wanted the variable speed control and the emergency disconnect intact. That got rid of a lot of unneeded wires. I hope that helps. Good luck on your project! I'm glad it's helped you to build some ideas to work with. Thanks for watching!

Thanks! I will keep you informed of my progress. @@ScanMan79

Here is my latest version 4: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pXnTXmuHfZqYmrM It's running too fast (I think) at 70 RPM but I will be working on slowing it down, but before that, will test it out in mission mode (one the rain stops). kzbin.info/www/bejne/nYS5knqIrqaVpqc Here it is working at 40 RPM in mission mode, using a different drive motor: kzbin.info/www/bejne/emLchYKqftigbLc

Well, it is possible that the new part could have failed already, though unlikely. Since it's not too expensive you could try and replace it again, but if it fails again after just a short time it might need further diagnosing to find out why this part is failing. The one I replaced in this video 4 years ago is still working without any issues. Just make sure you're using a quality part as the cheap generics out there more often than not aren't worth the savings they bait you in with. :) Hope that helps.

​@@ScanMan79Thank you. What brand is a good quality brand?

Best of luck!

@@ScanMan79 what size is dhe hub nut? To take off the bearing?

@@deezsquuezeorg30mm. It’s best to go with a 6 point deep socket.

Thanks!

Yeah both are normal for these engines. Mine has a lot of blow by as well. As well as other Saturn's of this generation. The discoloration is a combination of varnishing and carbon build-up. As long as it's not excessive it's nothing to worry about. It's another side effect of those engines. They didn't have a very well balanced oil flow pattern and the dark areas are the areas that don't get as much flow and in turn run hotter.

@@ScanMan79 Lol that's good to know poor lubrication due to poor engineering 🤣. Well I've heard of 1.9s lasting past 400k so I'll just turn a blind eye to the visual aspect of the engine and just listen to if it's about to blow up lol. I must say it's the first car I've ever seen where the coolant temperature gauge fluctuates so drastically before the cooling fan kicks on leading me to almost believe the engine nearly overheats before the cooling fan kicks on. Another thing that's good for it I'm sure.

Thanks!

Hello, unfortunately I don't have an exact number for the material I used. I honestly don't remember there ever being one and had to take a shot in the dark and hoped I got close. Here is the liner I used, it looks like they just call it Light Gray now. Double check your measurements before you order as different companies offer different sizing options even if they all say van, quad cab etc. I've used both Heads Up and Headliner Magic brand fabric both with good results. Hope that helps you out some. Thanks for watching! headlinermagic.net/products/lt-gray-headliner-ceiling-repair-fabric-material-for-dodge-dakota?variant=39430998392910

Thank you vary much. Appreciate it.

Sorry about the delay in responding, your comment slipped through the crack. I used 23 inch rims for my build. Thanks for watching!

I used a 8x2mm O-ring on mine

In 2009 they changed to the new style as shown in my video. You may have a 2009 that was actually built in late 2008 and still have the old style. I believe it was located back by the firewall on the older style ones, but don't quote me on that. If all else fails, you can trace the line from the vapor canister up to the engine and you will find it for sure. Not the most fun way but cheap! :) Best of luck.

Thanks!

Well you watch the video I do say that the windows seal is already broken loose and that's what I was redoing the window. Yes most newer vehicles require a special tool to make the job easy, but they are not strictly required.

Personally, I have never added any grease to these bolts. I live where salt and other chemicals are used heavily in the winter and haven't ever had one so corroded that caused an issue. Not saying it isn't possible, just haven't encountered one myself. If the grease would somehow get in contact with the thread lock I would expect that it would ruin the bond it creates. I think cleaning with a wire wheel or brush and a light coat of anti-seize or fluid film or your grease on the shank away from the threads would be fine but not needed.

@@ScanMan79 Thank you very much. Yes, I'd better leave how it is done. There is also some layer of PB Blaster. Thank you again.

This is located under the spare tire tub. I wouldn't think the heat shield would have been able to do any kind of damage to it. Overfilling the fuel (i.e.. clicking to get an even dollar amount) is the most common cause. That said they do have a life span on the charcoal and valves that eventually fail.

@@ScanMan79 Thank you! But not I'm curious. Clicking an even number causing it to overfill where you physically see it spilling out or even if it's not completely full and you click it to get even ? Lmao 🤣 I think I know the answer I just need clarification

@@alexissabbagh4049 :) No it doesn't need to be spilling out to be over filled. It's a hard habit to break, but best practice is to fill to the first click then no more than one additional click to "top it off". 😉

Hello, here is a link to the exact item I used. tinyurl.com/2594yktn Menards SKU: 2172828 Hope that helps! Thanks for watching.

Wow, thank you so much for responding and with a link, I really appreciate it. Thanks again this is what I needed.

I'm glad to hear you found it helpful! Good luck on your repairs!

Glad you liked my assistant :)! Thanks for watching!👍

I hear that! I've done my share of manual screening and it sucks at the best of times. You could make a similar device on a much smaller scale if needed and it makes things SO much easier and nicer to do. My only regret was I didn't do it sooner. Glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching!

@@ScanMan79 I looked into buying a motor and it's not in the budget. I couldn't find any. I'm thinking about trying it with the spit motor from my old bbq grill. And the steel rod. But for all the work and the room it takes up in such a small backyard I think I'll just continue to do it by hand for now. Anyway, it makes me feel more connected to the earth and my finished product.

@@robertevans8024 For mine I didn't pay anything for the motor. I waited for spring cleaning where people put their stuff on the curb to be rid of it. It's free game to people and whatever is left is picked up by the trash guys. Couple towns near me usually do it twice a year. Also Facebook marketplace is a good place to look. I scrapped an old treadmill for my motor but I also understand having a small space. It's hard to justify a large item that only gets used a few times a year when space is at a premium. Have a great one!

@@ScanMan79 that last sentence about space said it all. 👍

Yes, it's a bit tricky to get everything to stay in place while getting it back together. It took me several tries as well. I don't have any tips on this unfortunately, I just kept trying until I finally got it. It was frustrating though.

Actually it is. The valve and solenoid are one unit together. They cannot be separated.

Check my books and nothing in there for those. Just have to use the German default spec. gutentight 😉

@@ScanMan79 Thank you, it is good to know at least that no one knows that torque for sure. On page 0-9 in Haynes they give a list of torques for commonly used bolts, I think it is just for that type of bolts attachments. I attached gutentight, seems like it can't go further, but later will double check what the torque wrench says. Probably now it is not that important, since I'm ready to drop it back, if the new Pump is faulty or smth. The good approach is to try everything on the ground 1st (I saw in one film, he put the tank next to the car and started, trying to set the fuel sending unit to the desired position, like it will show empty, when actually it is still 2 gallons there, bending the wire of the unit back and forth, while checking the fuel gauge. The topper cap was open, so he extracted that fuel pump from the tank ~3-4 times) of course. Quite interesting approach, more reliable, but I decided to take my chances with one complete installation. If smth. more practice then. Thank you again.

@@olenaerhardt7725 Yeah, I've personally never heard or have known anyone to mess around with the fuel level float like that outside of building a custom tank for a project. I can see if the pump was generic where there might be some slight improvement but I don't know if it would be worth the time. I've never done that on a factory tank anyway so I can't really speak of it's worthiness or not. Now that you've mentioned it though, if I ever find myself replacing another fuel sender and I remember this, my OCD will likely get the best of me. LOL Thanks! 😏 Kidding of course. Glad to hear your making progress on things though!

@@ScanMan79 Now when I connected everything back, it doesn't seems complicated to connect the Fuel Tank on some low stands by the car to try everything before you put it back. Just 1st time I was very uncertain, thought will mix up smth, so it was easier to put the tank back when it is empty. My main OCD thoughts are that the new F Pump though it is OEM is defective. We'll see, in the process I bought 2 other generic ones, so equipped completely for possible failures in this experiment. Thank you.

​@@ScanMan79 I received the following answer from Amazon from the seller of the Saturn Straps for Fuel tank: "Thank you for your inquiry. The initial torque values for the fuel tank straps are 51 ± 7 Nm (38 ± 5 ft-lb) for round tanks and 98 ± 7 Nm (72 ± 5 ft-lb) for D-shaped fuel tanks. BuyAutoParts Seller · October 7, 2022 " It looks to me too high, even for the round Fuel Tank. And the 2001 Saturn SL2 looks to be D-shaped to me. 72 Ft-lbs it's a lot, don't you think? Are there many cases that someone stripped the bolt there? I'm afraid to apply even 38 Ft-lbs. Thought first on Oil Plug 20 Ft-lbs seemed a lot to me as well. I did before like 7 ft-lbs and nothing was dripping, but I like to do everything as exact as possible, so I do now always 20 Ft-lbs. I should remark here, that I was able to find those 20 ft-lbs from different sources, not straight from the Haynes book, or e-book. But for 2003 Chevy Cavalier 18 ft-lbs is in Haynes, so 20 ft-lbs logically seems to be the right torque for oil Pan plug, since the cars are somewhat similar. I would appreciate any opinions on those straps torques for Saturn.

Actually, there is no "axle" in this car. It's just "U" channel that crosses from wheel to wheel. In that sense no that doesn't spin, but I wasn't holding the that from spinning. The Hub, which is what I replaced in this video does. The crowbar is used to keep it from spinning while installing the hub nut, not the axle. Thanks for watching.

Hello, Angle will really depend on soil type and condition of the soil itself. Mine is around 15 degrees. If you have a very sandy dry soil you will be able to run a much steeper angle and still get the same results as it will filter faster. But if you have clay or loamy soils that hold moisture then you're gonna need a low angle to allow the soil more time in the basket to get sifted otherwise you may have to run it more than once. There is no set angle, you'll have to just play around with it until you find that sweet spot for your local soils. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching.

@@ScanMan79 thank you so much for your information. I am making mine just now. I'll see how it works when I finish it. Thank you amigo.

I'm not certain, but I don't see why that wouldn't work. Neither of those lines really see any pressure. My only thought would be make sure the hose is acceptable with ethanol. Most small engines are not designed for ethanol where vehicles are, at least in the last 20 years or so are up to 10% then up to 85% in the last few years. If it's just a basic rubber the ethanol with break it down. That would be the only thing I could think of that I would confirm before proceeding. :)

@@ScanMan79 Thank you, glad to hear from you. On the description of that hose it says: ID: 9/16 inch / 14mm, OD: 13/16 inch / 21mm, NBR liner hose, 5 feet Use hose barbs and clamps, transfer of petroleum products fuel lines for small engines Working Pressure 2Mpa. Burst Pressure 5Mpa, Handles temperature ranges of -40 to +275 degrees F Designed for conveying gasoline, E-85, diesel, and bio-diesel fuels in cars, trucks, buses, etc The Fuel Lines for fuel injected systems, are oil resistant,cold-resistant and ethanol tolerance So ethanol tolerance is mentioned, but till what extend? I asked Amazon, maybe they will clarify a bit. I never thought anything special for that statement about Small Engines, I thought it means for small (passenger) cars. Thank you so much for pointing out. That is probably more for dirt bicycles, motorcycles and alike. I've recently learned a lot about those fuel hoses. For boats they are quite different. Everything for fuel should have SAE J30R and certain # after it (again for boats totally different #s than for cars). Mine is SAE J30R 10, so it means can be submerged in fuel. Also see how they say, even diesel. But still I even don't know, my options are: to put replacement hoses from the one mentioned above or to apply a self adhesive tape for radiator hoses on the old parts. I'll check tomorrow w/local auto shops (maybe they have smth better), but usually they don't know much, so not much hope. I've also heard there should be shops in every city, which repair hoses. Not in our though. I called around, everyone wants to mess w/car to make money, you can't go there w/a hose to be repaired. O well, but it is good to know that those hoses I bought fm Amazon are motorcycle hoses, yes, most likely, that is why they kind of look a bit differently: more soft, easier to bent. Thank you again for this direction of thoughts I have now. Update: I think I found the hose needed, in Autozone, here it is if someone else might be interested: Continental 19/32in PCV Emissions Hose- sold per foot Part # 50292 SKU # 13694 $4.49 On picture it looks like same structure of the surface (same 1/2 spheres), exactly the size of the original, and doesn't say for small engines SAE J30R 07 (in one film they said it is a good # for fuel system). I feel like a saylor who saw the Land.

@@olenaerhardt7725 A couple of thoughts... Be careful with Amazon products. SO many fakes and just outright lies from Chinese sellers on a lot of products on there. I'm not saying avoid it but just do your homework first before purchasing and always try to make sure the seller is Amazon, not some random company if possible. Also, assuming the info on the hose it true, the E85 rating would be more than enough for that car as you should never run more than E10 or 10% ethanol in a vehicle that old. They didn't have upgraded hoses to withstand the corrosiveness of the higher alcohol content. That also applies to O-rings, etc. Not the cheapest option, but depending on budget, may be something to consider. Not using rubber at all and switch to vinyl. Dorman makes a fuel system repair kit that's pretty slick if you are doing enough to validate the price. No affiliation just seen it demonstrated on SMA's YT channel. www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5666205&jsn=1615 The biggest thing is make sure the vinyl hose is secured well to avoid abrasion wear from rubbing and vibrating against something.

@@ScanMan79 About vinyl hoses I don't know, there are some nylon tubes and rubber, no I'd better stay w/same ones, just want to replace for the same ones whatever possible, so the result would be better. I found the same size as original for Charcoal Canister hose and Vapor Canister Vent Solenoid hose: 19/32" SAE J30 R7 from Autozone, so should be good. The only concern is that, since no one can make that curve on the hose like on the original one, it could be some kinks on those (they both slightly curved. One like a semicircle, another one like $ sign. But the main problem for me now how to attach that 2" ID hose to the Filler Neck plastic end. Can you use a Heat Gun (accurately of course) on a new Rubber Hose for the Filler Neck to put it on? The thing is that the Filler Neck is 2-1/16" with a band 2-1/4" at the end. Fuel Tank neck is 2" with a band on the end 2-1/8". It looks like the original Fuel Neck hose was 2" (kind of unclear print on it 2"). Micrometer shows on that old hose 2" ID, but it is soft, so you can put it on. I bought a new, also 2" ID and can't fit it on that Filler Neck. Can I use 2-1/4" ID (I found one) instead of 2"? There will be clamps on both sides. Dorman Tool I saw on Amazon, but it works on the IDs smaller than 2" I think, but thank you for pointing out, and of course for you replay.

@@olenaerhardt7725 Yeah sorry about that. I miss spoke it was nylon not vinyl hose. Vinyl could melt. 😳 I'm unaware of any way to heat a hose to make a semi-permanent bend in it. Though I've never tried before either. I've always just rerouted the line to make it work best. If you have enough hose to play with, drive some nails in a board and bend some hose between them, then heat it up real good while between the nails and let cool completely. Pull out and see if it will hold it new shape. If so, you know what to do. If not, then you'll have to work around stuff the best you can to avoid any kinks. You might be be able to get away with a 2.25" hose, but that's a fair bit of a size difference. So it would come down to how soft the hose is if it would smash down well enough to seal properly. You might be able to add heat to the 2" hose and some lube on the filler neck and get it to slide on though it will likely take a fair bit of strength to get it to slide on. That's how I'd personally go about it. I wouldn't use the bigger hose unless last resort.

Well, you have found something that I've never heard of before. I didn't know those tools where even available to be honest. So unfortunately I'm not going to be any help on this one. As far as the 2mm of play I've seen a few like that and they sealed fine but I don't know if that is correct or not.

@@ScanMan79 I think I'll put a small clamp or two on that line (one for each end). They did it like that on the aftermarket FP Assembly (I have extra), yes, 2 small clamps on each end of that central tube though it is pushed all the way. They wrote on that line w/white paint letter "F" (probably stands for fuel), other 2 have letters "A" (don't know what it stands for) and "R" (probably for return line). I've read somewhere that the central line should withstand ~100psi, so extra clamps won't hurt on it. About that Koul Tool (~$370 on Amazon) I'm also so excited that even glad that received that somewhat defective (if it is) part. You can do all the nylon lines needed and don't worry if any old cracks on you. But the attachment to the objects, like to the top of FP Assembly, that is the question I'm researching now. Even the manufacture couldn't say immediately, I'm discussing w/them. No information anywhere how to attach those 3 nylon lines, but it should be though complicated, but pretty standard procedure. I can imagine those lines can be damaged and you want to replace them. But very good tool indeed, I'm thinking about it despite the price.

Thanks, I'm glad it was helpful. They make special window clamps that use suction cups. These are obviously the best solution. If budget is tight and you're ingenuity is high, you can use blocks of wood and ratchet straps to get the job done in a pinch. I had to do the latter. If you choose to try the wood block method, I highly recommend you test your setup BEFORE you start on the window. The last thing you want to discover is you don't have enough or uneven clamping force after you've already applied the adhesive. Also if you go the ratchet strap method don't go full gorilla on them or you'll pop the glass. You just want a nice even pressure all across the glass that's just enough to press the sealant and hold it's position until it's cured. Taping the top of the window to the cab roof can help keep the glass from drooping during the curing. Hope that helps and good luck! Thanks for watching.

If I'm doing this sort of work by hand in my garden just think how many others out there need a mobile sifter? 🙂

I just seen this! I didn't know what it was at first. Nobody has ever done that for me before. Thank you very much! It means more than you know. I'm sorry it took me so long to notice it. :)

@@ScanMan79 My pleasure, thank you for your help again, glad you liked a small gift. I also never sent anything before and was not sure if everything was done correctly. Great that everything worked.🏵

@@olenaerhardt7725 I was doing some more research on how the super thanks and things work here on KZbin and thought I should pass along some info in case you are not aware of it for future reference. Creators only get 70% of what you give. YT keeps 30% of the total amount. So YT kept $15 of the $50 you sent me. I'm not sure if that's disclosed to you before you pay for it or not, but I wanted to be sure you knew that since you said this, like me, was your first time as well. Kind of a scam by yt if you ask me. Don't get me wrong I'm still very grateful for your gift. I just wanted to make sure you knew how it works on the creators end of things. YT has got its sticky fingers in the pot to. :)

@@ScanMan79 No-no, please don't get upset with YT, think what we would do without it, they do a great job and need some income too. But thank you for the explanations, I really didn't see any message of those15% off, but I can't say it was not there, I'm not very observable. I just remember there was a confirmation of the transaction w/a standard statement of appreciation and then I saw it on your film comments as well, then I modified a bit that standard statement. I think all that is good, on that small amount doesn't matter much, but I like to know how everything works, so appreciate your message. I'll keep it in mind for the future. The main thing that your channel should grow to the best possible, what I have no doubts about. 🌎

@@olenaerhardt7725 I'm not upset, but YT isn't hurting for money by any stretch. It just kind of caught me off guard when it show's everyone $50 and people think that's what the creator is getting but in reality it's not. I should have expected that. Not a big deal. :) Thank you for the gift nonetheless. It is greatly appreciated!