@@jamesboylan6685 Motivmotorsport.com sells them for $105

The car is still alive and well. Only thing I’ve done since this video is put it on a stickier tire and upgrade the exterior with a bunch of carbon fiber. I’ll probably do an update video at some point soon.

Yes

@@midwestbmw1292 same as the one on wheel side? You noticed actual benefit?

@@impenetrable2 it’s hard to say what suspension mod helped the most when I was at this stage of the build, mainly because I upgraded a bunch of items all at once. Once I added all the power to the car I started having an issue where the ass of the car would dance/sway side to side under hard acceleration. The fix for that was a set of RevShift solid trailing arms. So I always tell people those are the suspension mod I noticed the most from in the rear. Up front I would say the Turner Monoball in the control arm added the most benefit. It tightened up everything under hard breaking and made turn in very crisp compared to the sloppy factory rubber.

I’ve only been called out for that slip of the tongue on here for the last 3 years. But hey welcome to the party.

…no but I plan to. For me everything has continued to work flawlessly but for others I’ve talked to they needed the fly back diode and when they installed it everything worked fine. Based on what I know you should install it on the SSR.

@@midwestbmw1292 thanks for the quick reply. Do you have a plan yet for which diode you will install? I originally ordered the MSD relay planning to plug it right into my Precision Raceworks harness, but now I'm rethinking that and think I should get a traditional SSR like yours and add a diode.

Yeah if I recall it was. At the time I was really just getting by with what I had in the garage. In hindsight I would’ve done it much differently.

I have since added 265 section Toyo R888R and was able to squeak out a 6.64s 60-130 but that was at 26.5 psi, due to lower ethanol content (E72). I’m thinking if I can actually get a tank of E85 from the gas stations around here that hits 85 on the content sensor while temps are still cooler, then I’ll hit 28+psi which should put me in lower 6s…..MAYBE high 5s

If you want to go fast for cheap then absolutely. Just understand that everything you alter takes away some of the refinement that came from the factory. If you keep it mild you still have a wildly fun car. I opted to go pretty far and my car is like a go cart now….but I love it.

As long as SLG can get you the same ring and pinion ratio that your AWD has. Thats the only thing I can think of that would keep it from working. I would reach out to them. They’re typically very responsive and also highly knowledgeable.

Still have the car and love it. Just nothing new that’s really worth making content on, that hasn’t already been done. Once the weather breaks I may do a quick update video and talk about what plans I have for the car.

I’m right here bro.

@@midwestbmw1292 we need some new content man! I loved you’re videos

Apparently that’s how the DCT is.

Just wondering bc my car is the same I was wondering if I was missing a tray or gasket

I ended up going with the SLG Ford 8.8” rear end conversion. At the time it was ~$4500. I believe it’s close $5k or more now.

Check out the response to the same question from 3 days ago.

Here ya go. www.summitracing.com/parts/mrf-mp-3071-blk

@@midwestbmw1292 Thanks! I really appreciate the quick reply. I went ahead and ordered it. I really want to get my 335is started tomorrow so I might just throw in the hobbs switch for now. I’ve pretty much mirrored your build as far as fueling goes but I went the single turbo route. I’m super excited to start it up. All I have left after the port injection plate is the upgraded fuel pump. I’m still a little confused about the wiring for the SSR but it doesn’t seem too bad.

Glad to help. Let me know if you get hung up on the relay and wiring. It’s not that bad once you understand why and how it all works.

@@midwestbmw1292 Sounds good! Again, I appreciate the help. If I get caught up with the install, i’ll for sure get back to you.

⁠@@midwestbmw1292I’m having an issue with my second pump not coming on. Could you help me out?

Bingo.

Yes. Reflex will trigger the relay to trigger the secondary fuel pump to increase rail pressure once PI injectors are triggered.

@@midwestbmw1292happen to have link to the relay u used?

E9x chassis only.

@@midwestbmw1292E8x too

Motiv Reflex+ is wired into the DME and therefore accessible over CAN Bus via OB2 port. It work’s separately but in conjunction with MHD app. The Tuner you choose will need to support Motiv and write in PI control file into the tune. Essentially the injector map the Tuner puts in place on ReFlex+ will work alongside the tune file uploaded through MHD. Hope that makes sense.

It does! thanks for taking the time to explain! (already Subscribed to your channel btw 😎)@@midwestbmw1292

Hard to say if the SF mounts added and NVH. I swapped so many parts and added the Ford 8.8” rear end in. I will say that the totality of mods I’ve done to the rear suspension and drivetrain has definitely increased NVH.

It could be the PCV hose in the back of the engine could be cracked or the PCV valve beside the PCV hose on the back of the valve cover. It’s stuck open, causing excessive Crank case vacuum

i think its supposed to be a little vacuum on oil cap

@@cosmos2382No there should not be

​@@E93RGYI have 2 n54's, one is having a barely vacuum on oil cap, the other one doesnt have any vacuum. both has metal pcv valve. Both running healthy so i dont know anymore 😂

@@cosmos2382 How long ago was it you installed the billet pcv valve on the one that is under vacuum in the crank? It’s possible it could be stuck open with some debris, or that your high side valve/flapper have an issue with them. But if it’s running fine and not smoking? fuck it🤷🏻‍♂️

RB Outlets.

I’m still here and the car is still doing very well. Just haven’t been behind the camera. I’m considering doing an 8HP70 swap this winter. Obviously if I go that route I’ll document it.

You ever get your RB turbos installed?

I ended up getting the Rob Back twos.. they’re just sitting in the box getting ready to do them soon.. I figured they are the best choice since I will be Daily driving this car 500 horse is all I need!!

Still going strong. I have 6-7k miles on them and no complaints. 26-28psi full E85. No smoke, no rattle. Definitely a well built set of turbos and worth the wait it takes Rob to make them.

The front lower control arm will allow more negative camber because it is longer. It also has a ball joint instead of a rubber bushing, where it connects to the subframe. The only difference in the front upper control arm is a slightly stiffer bushing in the M variant. You could in theory just buy a stiffer bushing for your existing front upper control arm, press it in, and have it be as stiff or stiffer than the M variant. I went with the Monoball in my front upper control arm which is the pinnacle of what can be done to the E9x front suspension

@@midwestbmw1292 so would that actually be possible? But seems like what your saying it would jus be better to change the bushings in them. I do need a bit of help I’m trying to find all the other ball/joints and bushes that will need replacing in the rear and for upgraded ones to, if any chance could give links to all the bushes I’d appreciate it. Except sway bars, so all control arms and trailing bushes. Please I’ve been struggling for hours trying to list them all out :(

@@drizzeysmith9699 if you look on all my video descriptions you’ll see my mod list and where I got the items. It’s not links but it will give you what you need. One thing I’ve added this summer that is not on my mod list is Rev Shift trailing arms. They have cut down on the amount of movement in the rear under hard acceleration.

I think I’m actually going to go with the Signature Werks Brembo kit off the ZL1 Camaro. Front and back the kit is only ~4k.

Westside of Cleveland.

The rotors came with a directional sticker on them and each box was labeled right or left front or rear. Also the website shows pics of them installed on the car in this orientation. Link below. www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-parts/2-piece-lightweight-front-brake-rotors-pair-348x30/003294ecs01kt/

I’m not saying you’re wrong. Simply saying I installed them the way ECS instructed.

In hindsight a little silicone spray would’ve likely made it easier. Regarding using larger washers, I paid close attention when installing the bushing. I watched to make sure the inner bushing was compressing faster than that outer portion of the bushing was pressing into place. With all that said it doesn’t matter anyway because I’m about to swap the M3 bushings out for solid aluminum in the next few days. Video to come.

Sounds like you have an amazing build taking place. Very nice! I may need to hit you up for info on the M3 rack and pinion install. How hard was it and did you have to do any coding? I’ve heard it’s night and day difference over non M rack. Check out my other videos. I have a two part on the RB install plus and in depth overview of the turbos. I love the RBs and the car is rowdy. I have around 4.5k miles on them and zero issues. I’m running full E85 100% of the time and Ken has target at 28. The RBs handle that boost with ease. The downside is that Rob is slow in getting them out (9 month turnaround for mine).

@@midwestbmw1292 Damn! That's huge turnaround! I might just keep the Flow Max. I've been waiting for 3 months now, and they're still not here XD. Regarding the M3 rack, it was easy! Way easier than doing the rear subframe stuff I did. I used an m3 rack off a salvage m3 with 57k miles & rear end damage only. I used fresh oem tie rods paired with the m3 turner monoball control arm upgrade. Reason for oem tie rods is that the m3 & 1M use a different knuckle assembly & different tie rod length. The m3 rack with oem tie rods work fine & install was quick! The oem power steering pump, lines, reservoir, & chf-11s fluid work fine as well, however I replaced my old reservoir with a brand new one (there's a filter in it) poured in new chf-11s fluid, bled the system to get dirty fluid out, & re-filled to full then capped it off. Car has driven fine for a few thousand miles so far, and I LOVE the ratio. Very good for daily driving, it's actually more practical now, because I notice there's less hand-over-hand transitions. Now there are a few things to note. The oem steering rack ("L5") is just a simple, straight ratio steering rack, but the m3/1m steering rack ("L2") has "active steering" or "servotronic" which uses a solenoid/valve to variate the steering ratio based on speed. Retro-fitting active steering requires changing your JBBF to an "M" stamped one & coding in the option. There's an electrical socket on the new steering rack that you need to plug into. You must create the plug (you can order new plug parts on ECS Tuning) & run the wires (I cut some long, correct-guage wire from a junkyard bmw) to the jbbf module behind your dash (by the fusebox). The ps pump is also different on non-active steering vs active steering. You can tell by a distinct "hump" on the body (I used realoem dot com to figure this out). I chose to NOT retrofit active steering, at least not yet. I have everything, except the pump, but the car is running FINE with the servotronic socket electrically taped-off, & stock power steering pump. All it does to your steering by not retrofitting the active steering system is make steering heavier below 30mph. Over 30mph, everything is normal. There's HUGE documentation about this on 1addicts & e90post. I had to scour to peice it all together. The steering when parked & idling, or slowly manuevering is not really that bad. It's still assisted and way better than if the car was turned off. You could totally run an m3 rack without ever fitting active steering, but if you want lighter steering at slower speeds, you do need more parts & a lot of electrical know-how to get it done. Also, when you fit the m3 rack, there's a black tab to help you insert the steering shaft & align the steering wheel correctly. This is actually 30° OFF from the non-m steering racks, so you will have to carefully pull that whole black plastic tab with round peice off, and slide it back on your m3 rack to match the black tab on your old rack. It's a guessing game. Push the tie rods on both racks til the racks are centered as can be, then move the m3's black tab. I got it REALLY close, probably like 1 degree off, but it doesn't bother me. When I replace my steering wheel, I'll see if I can clock it correctly from inside instead. Good luck man!

@@qx4n9e1xp bro thank you so much for this! This is what I needed to know. Honestly I’ll probably forgo the active steering because my car isn’t my daily and im not worried about having any of the daily driver comforts really. I’ll check out 1addicts and E90post. I may DM you down the road about it! Let me know how the Flow Max workout.