I think is does what it is designed for which is quick cleanups. This is not for bagging a full fall cleanup if you let it go. Ouse it to clear the driveway and neaten up the front of the house and am pretty happy with it. At least at the price tag around 100.

Smartt Hubby. I'm already recording the final configuration and it looks like it will be nice. Ask the hubby if he has any ideas on what I should run it.

Glad I could make you laugh and that you didn’t choke :) if you have any questions, let me know.

I did look at the official Incra instructions and it's saying that you need 10 inches between the miter slot and the sides of the table. I think your saw, like mine, doesn't have that much. But it looks like it still works pretty well?

@@stevemcirvin Hi Steve - This is what I did. I read that spec as needing 10 inches right of the blade. On my DeWalt it has a material support built into the fence. I use that to support the sled. The key is to make sure you still have an inch of space between the edge of the sled and the actual fence. If the fence touches the sled you could get a kickback if it pinches. Right or wrong that is how I use mine and it has worked for my needs, At least until they finally send my SawStop! Safety first though - only do cuts you feel comfortable with and never trust anyone on the internet :) Unless that internet person has a Sawstop then just do whatever they say :P

The fix takes about 60 seconds to do on site, learning how to do something often takes longer.

Glad it helped!

Sure - Are you looking to buy the Router table kit or a specific stand. The stands come in lots of sizes and I don't want to give you the wrong numbers. If you are having this cut for you I'd give yourself a little wiggle room. If you are going to cut the pieces yourself, I'll get you the dimensions of mine, but know there might be a little variation and you might need to trim to get a nice fit.

I hope it worked for you!

Hi - the last 30 second of the video had pans across all the finished product. Right after the logo pops up for second at the 10 minute ish mark. Hope that helps and have a great weekend!

If you are using a hardwood that is probably fine. The issue would be more does the wood warp a little without the spacer to hold it straight. maybe put some decorative mesh in the holes to help keep it true.

I did a long one without a wood center support. To help offset the weight, I connected the long piece to the top plate using an L bracket. It’s inside and difficult to see. And if someone looks that deep into my baseboard, I don’t want them in my house 😂

@@PadillaKids Great job. The reality is probably need to worry more about twisting than sagging since it sits on top of the original radiator top. Properly dried hardwood would mitigate that.

Before I give my answer, I would say if you are really worried confirm with the local fire department ... But baseboard heating with water is old tech and designed to be safe, the water flowing through the baseboards is less than 200 degrees. For comparison paper combusts at 450 degrees. (By the way so will you) These types of heating systems need to be safe with thing like drapes, kids and there toys toys, pets, fabric furniture, etc coming in contact with them. Wood would take several hours at 400-500 degrees to ignite. These are oven temperatures. That said, if you have electric baseboard heat, you likely want to stay away from this. As for efficiency, you need a way for air to come in at the floor and exit the top after passing through the fins, A completely open or metal mesh front would be fine. The key is airflow. Some people think the heat radiates of the the metal, but it actually causes an airflow where cold air on the floor near the radiator heats up and starts to rise. As the hot air rises it is replaced with cooler air, causing a circular convection current heating the room. The paint itself once dried probably has a resistance to somewhere north of 250 degrees. You need to remember the walls touching the same area are painted and the copper pipes with the hottest water pass though the wood, joists and wall cavities to get around the house. The hottest temperatures are the pipes that come right off the boiler. I hope that helps.

@@SoWeBoughtaHouse Thanks a lot, yes, this is very helpful. I have some baseboard heaters in a space where I would like to install built-in floor to ceiling bookcases, and I'm trying to find out how best to build around them/integrate them into the design of a "library" wall. From what you're saying that shouldn't be a problem if I leave enough space for the air to circulate. Many thanks, great food for thought!

I'd probably raise the bookshelves up and use a false bottom on it to make sure I had room to service the radiator and clean it. You can also probably post on a heating forum to see what the recommended clearance is for air flow.

@@SoWeBoughtaHouse Awesome, thanks for these great ideas!

Hopefully a good wow and not a wow WTF :)

I do - Here is what use. shopnationstore.com/products/dewalt-dws779-780-miter-saw-dust-collection I didn't want to build something big because I want the store to remain portable and Travis at Shop Nation did tons of R&D on this and honestly for the cost I couldn't come close if I made something myself and had to model the 3D parts. Here is a short I made showing it in action. kzbin.infonqIjbSohPeA It is not perfect, but it is. the perfect compromise. Also if you want a laugh take a look at this video, where I tried to include all the feedback from this one into one single build. kzbin.info/www/bejne/aWi2Y5WCftZ-hK8 If you have any question on anything, let me know.

Not lazy, just didn't get to that yet :) If you want a laugh, watch this it shows what was there originally and why I needed the door in the first place. The fun things you find after you buy a house. But hey, that is why I created to channel, to share misery and help others learn from my mistakes :). It is much cheaper than therapy.

@@SoWeBoughtaHouse just ribbing you a bit after the comment about paint on the hinges. 😇🤣

lol it is like fingernails on a chalkboard when I see it.

You are so welcome! Let me know if you have any questions.

Hi David, sorry for scaring you and I'm happy I was able to help. I used to wear button downs mainly for the sake of filming when it was cold out in the garage. I'm actually really far from the balde as this is a 12 inch saw, but it doesn't look that way on the video and don't want to set a bad example. Since then I have tried to make sure I only wear short sleeves when actually cutting. Safety is super important and I want to make sure that comes through so I will be more conscious. Thanks for your comment.

Happy I could help Jen. I made a second miter saw video which is a little tongue in cheek on how I upgraded this based on user feedback. There are some practical upgrades in it though that might give you some ideas on how you can make this your own without spending a ton of money.

Send me a photo at [email protected]. First though would be to just cut them out with a flush trim saw.

Everyone is a little different, but you need to make sure the top plate covers the front panel which is 3/4" and still leaves room to not touch the radiator fins. If that doesn't make sense let me know and I can talk you through measuring to make sure you have enough room.

I found a (cheaper) and faster way to make this work. I used the same top width you recommended and instead, used 5inch sheets of shiplap as the face since it’s only .67 inches deep. They’re not nearly as pretty as yours, but it actually came out nice. I mean, anything is better than the metal ones we had before. Thanks for all your help.

@@PadillaKids Sounds great. I made this video to show a basic technique and always hoped people would use it as a jumping off point to make their own designs. So happy you tried it and I'm sure it looks awesome!

Glad I could help. For the size and weight I don't think you can beat it. There are some slightly larger models but in my opinion are great as portable saws. Eventually I will upgrade to a cabinet saw, but I would never get rid of this for the portability.

Thank you!

Not a bad idea. I work with corded ones all day and never unplug them,. Probably just my bad habit.

Great to hear!

I don't disagree, but they made it right in the end. It is a premium product from them.

Thank you! Cheers!

Thanks - hard to find the spec. 20 seems reasonable though. I actually tightened it not enough and got a tony leak. Then I tightened a little more 1/8 turn and the leak stopped. Still no leak years later.

Thanks - let me know if you have any questions.

Interesting, I have a magnolia and it doesn't have an issue once the leaves dry out. Maybe different species?

You must be very advanced. When people call you special they really mean it.

Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it!

Hi David - you are correct. I do have those options and made this video for people who might not have those option. However the playing the stop of the stand does cause some imprecision. Don’t get me wrong you could frame a house with this system, but it you were building a piece of furniture, the little bit of flex is enough to cause wobbly legs and joints with gaps. This simple setup makes everything almost perfect even for those high precision application where the part length needs to perfect across multiple members. It is also much more portable than building a dedicated stand. If you want to see a fun build I did an updated portable stand where budget was not issue and tried to incorporate every upgrade on this thread for fun. Let’s just say it is t for the budget faint of heart :). Thanks for watching and for the comment. Happy building!

You are welcome. I think the choice comes down to what kind of work you want to do. If you do small pieces a lot this will likely work for you. For the occasional big project you can you a sled and your planer to joint most boards. It is slower, but not a big deal. Ultimately, if I was doing a lot of bigger pieces like full sized furniture, built ins, etc. I would have gone with something bigger. This is a good benchtop jointer though with a nice capacity. It is a benchtop jointer though and is limited in what it can do. Make sure you expectations are in line with what it should be capable of doing and I think it makes the choice easier. It is very compact and light making it easy to move. In my shop (a one car garage) I have it bolted to a work surface to keep it steady as a push through things that are way too big, so I might be missing out on the space savings. I did build the super dooper shop scooter to sit under it and fit both my compressor and spindle sander. If you are looking to save space check out that scooter video. Happy building!

I might do another unboxing to see the newer boxes. Let me know if it is something of interest. Right now my opinion is they an ok gift for a new woodworker or maker that has nothing yet and you have no idea what to get them. buy for the 50 bucks I put together a gift guide of alternatives that would be better.

Totally understand. I see this as either a fun to open kind of thing or a good gift for someone just getting in to the hobby. It did make a fun stocking stuffer.

Same theory, When I made this video the tip was more for working on location being able to pop something together with scrap. Simple works as you know :)

It is select Pine from Home Depot whatever that means. It has worked fine for three years, no twisting. It is secured to the fence which helps.

Thank you!

I swear, the same gremlins that take my sucks also make the variable length tapes I have. It can't be me, my fuzzy vision is a sharp as ever :)

The cutting is what slowed me down, but all in all I think it is a doable project. I have a video of me doing my floors if you search the channel. The finishing was the harder part. I laid down close to 2000 sqf of oak with no issues and no misfires.

Remember it I hip to be square :)

Thanks William! Glad you are enjoying the channel and if you ever have and ideas you want to share, let me know I ll make the video for you and share the glory :). Have a great long weekend!

I still use it every few days and the only thing I've had to do is check for flatness, that the fence is square and rotate a few cutter blades that got nicked. I really can't complain for a table top jointer. I put some heavy pieces of wood through it which honestly a table top jointer is not made for. Because of that I probably knock it out of whack more than most people would. Even with that I say I recalibrate every 4-6 months and just need to check the square on the fence which is very easy to adjust if you knock it out. I've had no issues with the motor or any mechanical issues. The cutters are good. I only needed to rotate a few after running some reclaimed lumber that likely had some pin nails and rocks that did it. St this point I'd say I've run 3-4K board feet mostly 4/4 and 8/4. That said if you can afford it and have the space for it a full sized parallelogram jointer is the way to go. If you need the space, are a hobbyist and don't mind having to tweak it every once in awhile this is a good option in my opinion.

Hi Francis, I check the fence for square everytime I start using it. Sometimes it is out, but to be honest it only take a few seconds to square back up. I push this unit to its limit regularly with 4/4, 8/4 and even 12 in length from two to 8 feet. If I was using smaller lighter weight material I doubt it would get knocked out as much and even with that is is minimal. Personally I have no issues, but based on what I make which is larger pieces, I will likely upgrade at some point to deal more easily with the heavier, longer pieces. If you are doing cutting boards, frames and generally pieces of wood less than 4 feet, I think you will have no issues with this unit.

Still Working though I mostly use it after I do pruning, I probably run it 50-100 hours a year. I did replace the blades once. If the blades dull the motor can bog down and that might limit the life of the motor. I definitely got my money out of it for what I need it for.

The video shows all the seals that I replaced inside the pump. There are ones on the reservoir as well as in the metal casing. All are fairly simple to install.

Awesome. One of the simplest, cheapest hacks for GSD :)

Awesome - so glad it helped! Thanks for watching and you check out the video on craftsman casing and wall paneling. They are meant to accent the radiators and are pretty easy as well.

Have you guys noticed any loss of heat put out or absorbed in the wood? Is your heat running more often to keep the space warm?

@@jasonp3896 I have not noticed any difference and my oil consumption hasn't changed. As long as you have enough airflow for the the convection to happen I think impact is minimal.

Good morning Karen. I hope you are having a great day and I'm super happy you love your mystery boxes. Taylor Toolworks is a good company and I have no issues with them. In fact I buy from them regularly do to their good products and great customer service. You are are correct my items did not come in a stalking. They came in a stocking straight from Santa. When I contacted his elves they explained the original packaging was a US postal box with the items inside and paper to protect it. I apologize that the title of the video was misleading to you. The "Exposed" part was a fun way of saying that I was about to to give a spoiler and show everyone what came in a mystery box, thus "exposing" its contents. If you watched the whole video, I had no issues with the overall value of what was in the box. I did provide some critiques like on the blade that would have made the value better. Part of reviewing something is providing constructive criticism and providing pros and cons to viewers. You don't need to agree with me - It is not mandatory. I don't think the big boys and girls over at Taytools are crying over anything I said. My final conclusion was that you got what you paid for and wouldn't be upset spending the money, but this is a better product for someone who is starting out than someone who is experienced. The reason behind this is experienced makers probably already higher quality versions of items that what were in the box. Going back to the square blade as an example, many people spend more on their square than the cost of all those boxes put together. For the experienced maker, I did a gift guide of items that cost the same amount and would have made better gift in my opinion.

Since we're living in a glass house and throwing stones about - I had to read your use of the word "stalking" twice to understand what the heck you were talking about. I now realise that I think you mean "stocking", not "stalking". Oh, and "buy" (as in to purchase something) is "buy", not "by". You're welcome.

Thanks Karen, I like to leave those little Easter eggs. Trolls shouldn't have to starve in this day and age. Have a great weekend!