It depends on the cable that you are using. Some cable is only rated for DC. In AC applications, soldering isn't normally used. Also, AC batteries are incredibly rare. I actually thought they were still under development but I could be wrong.

Both, it's for your Car sub amp, to listen to AC/DC.. 😂

Hi Phil, if the old cable is still flexible, not corroded and the insulation is still sound, it shouldn't be a problem. You may need to abrade and then flux the copper stands if they are dull, as the solder won't tin the copper properly otherwise. In commercial marine applications, tin plated cable is often required. So replacement is the only way in those situations, if the original cable is plain copper.

That great,thank you very much for your reply.

Maybe you should make a youtube video to share your skills and knowledge.

I agree, but seawater is so nasty that it will eat up all copper that isn't protected in a few years. Soldered ends work way longer at sea.

@@elbuggo Soldering the connection makes it the wire/strands solid leading to premature wire failure. Solid wires should not be used in an environment where there is a lot of vibration, like on a boat. It's a common mistake boating DIYers make unfortunately.

@@waynemahphotography RE: leading to premature wire failure. I know. But if it is not soldered, the seawater may eat the copper long before the vibrations will have broken it. Without soldering, the cable may brake within a year. The soldered part of the cable should be supported well to resist the vibrations better. I guess some grease or oil could be used instead of solder though. Anyway, something extra must be used to protect against nasty seawater.

@@elbuggo Do you mean the little hole? He's using a lug with an inspection hole. I would use a lug without this hole. If you look at marine grade lugs, most of them do not have this hole. And there is no copper exposed.

The flux in electrical solder does not cause corrosion. Nevertheless, it should be removed for neatness. I've been a marine engineer for 30 years and I can report that out of the hundreds of corroded and faulty cable assemblies that I have diagnosed, none of them were manufactured this way. They have mainly all been just crimped (often poorly but many OEM). The ones made using the method in this video last almost indefinatly in the marine enviroment.

@@deanbolton3228 less about the flux, more about solder itself. Solder tends to seep into the wires and then form a solid mass that is more likely to become brittle over time, damage, come loose or anything else in the long term in applications involving lots of vibration or movement. There's no good reason to do it this way in my eyes. Get a decent Hydraulic crimper, properly sized lugs, properly stripped wires and then just crimp it. The lug is wrong for Marine applications, don't need one with inspection hole, just use a solid closed one. Pour in some Penetrox PENE8 if you want to stay even more secure. Crimp it down and then Adhesive lined 1:3 Heatshrink. Never has failed me once. I'm extra about everything so I just use my milliohm meter to check the resistance over time, and it always impresses me how when done properly there's only a 3-4% change of resistance per year vs just the usual, inspection hole, no Penetrox and in humid enviroments having upwards of 20%-200% resistance changes.

On the shelf, where it belongs. 40 years of disassembling marine engines, pumps and gearboxes has taught me when it will be effective and when it won't. Once you've had 10,000 things apart, you'll know when to use it and when not to bother. :-)

Have you ever used a masonry chainsaw?

No, didn't think so.

@deanbolton3228 you obviously can't read.

its not going to kick back if you tip in correctly kick back happens when you try to cut with the very tip of the bar

Et him learn the hard way, just wait for it to hit rebar!

I think that solar cable is probably the same standard. Designed to be weather resistant. What I have seen has two layers of insulation and is tinned.

RS components, Farnell components, ebay

No.

Can cause future corrosion so more trouble than it's worth.

I'm doing the next one stood on a wobbly plank while someone throws salt water in my eyes.

Nope. The reverse thread nut is on the inside/behind the pulley. btw he should have used a ring spanner instead of adjustable spanner.

It's just 4-inch thick concrete blocks and mortar, neither of which are hard to cut. I'm curious as to how this saw would handle normal-strength reinforced concrete. P.S. "Concrete" is the product you get when you mix cement, aggregate, and water. "Cement" specifically refers to the magic powder that makes it all possible, by undergoing a bunch of exothermic chemical reactions when you add water. Those chemical reactions ultimately cause the cement to solidify, mainly due to the formation of nanocrystalline CSH (calcium silicate hydrates), which glues the aggregate together into a solid piece of concrete. That's an ultra-basic explanantion from a simple mud grunt.

I put your comment through Google translate. It isn't 100% coherent but I think you are saying Honda 2.5 are complete junk. If that is the case, I whole heartedly agree.