for the steering box?

@@toyotas208 for the IFS steering box mounting plate.

Thanks 👍

You can do it!

a good cleaning and soak in rust remover helps.

What are your plans for it? if you don't have to smog it just get you a weber and all you need is one vacuum line and one fuel line and it will pur like a kitten. Then you can sell all the smog stuff to me so i can finally drive mine on the ca roads again (legally)

Thanks 👍

Is that your fj40 as well.

where did you see a 40?

no still looking

yota tech has a thread on what is what for 4 sped or 5 speed or you can go to marlin crawer forums

Ive lost track how many times I'm fueling up a gas station and someone says "man i had one just like it i wish i never sold it"

@@toyotas208 l bet

My stepdad bought one just like that when I was a kid. That truck pissed of many women lol

Yes there was doubt in the diaphragm on the distributor advance vacuum (dented) so I just replaced the whole thing. I did unplug my vac hose when i did my timing. Also double checked all my timing marks and plumb and they are. but when I run it and have a timing light on it the closest, I can get it to 0 is by 8 degrees advanced. then if I skip a tooth, it goes way past like 12 retar

@@toyotas208 Did you try switching back to your old distributor to see if the problem goes away? You can test the diaphragm on the vacuum advance on your old distributor by using a vacuum pump. The hand vacuum pump that you can buy at harbor freight works fine. Not sure how bad the dent is on your old vacuum advance, but if the diaphragm closest to the engine tests out good holding a vacuum; I don't see why not to use that distributor. If the vacuum advance does not hold vacuum, you can use a modified flat head screw driver with a sharp edge and undo the crimp in order to get access to the diaphragm. The diaphragm usually gets a crack in it because they are made of rubber and rubber doesn't last forever. Super glue and plastidip will fix that problem. I've done it before. And once you recrimp the housing on the vacuum advance and still have doubts on it leaking, you can use a sealant around the crimp. I had an '80 4x4 pickup like yours, but it had a 20R with a single diaphragm on the distributor. I wish I would've never sold it. I bought that same distributor you have from O'Reilly, but end up returning it because I thought I could just use the vacuum advance, but that distributor is much smaller than the factory Toyota one. Maybe rockauto might still sell some remanufactured ones?

you have an 82 as well? looking to sell parts?

checked its all tight. just put in new intake

tried no leaks

32/36 adjusted both thank you

anytime you work on it just film it. you can use a phone or any camera. i use free editing software, there are dozens of edit sites to choose from.

I sprayed ether around the base of the carb and it did not affect the idle so no leaks there

@@toyotas208 is the carb new? Perhaps it just needs a deep ultrasonic cleaning, with new jets

@@Royalivyacademy the rebuild kit that I ordered just got here, going to take it apart again to install the kit tomorrow morning. I'm suspecting a bad harmonic balancer though after talking with some ppl on yotatech

mostly used from marketplace

a rachet strap and a car jack goes a long way

12.5 when idling

@@toyotas208 should be 13.5v to 14.5v at idle

being at 12.5 wouldn't affect the idle? then once the rpms rise it is at 14

@T.I.T.S. oh I guess my 22r must be different than yours if low voltage doesn't affect idle... I fought it for awhile before I realized what was wrong myself. You could just throw a pair of jumper cables connected to another vehicle or jump pack on it and find out in a second. good luck

will do thank you.

Una disculpa quise decir múltiple de admisión

Asegúrate también que el tubito o puerto de conexión de la base del carburador en la cual esta conectada la manguera que va al avance del distribuidor tenga vacío. Es decir funcionando el motor desconecta la manguera del avance y esta debe de succionar es decir que tenga vacío para que pueda mover el avance del distribuidor hacia adelante

Nuevamente otra disculpa no es cable rojo del canister debí decir manguera roja

So your saying just disconnect the red vacuum line from the canister?

@@juanpablonoriegacamacho9706 i disconnected the vacuum from the advance and did not have a vacuum. maybe it is in the wrong port at the base of the carb? there is only two

I have searched and searched with no luck

@@toyotas208 Sorry bout that, hope you find the parts you're looking for..

that's a good idea

I finally found one from a guy in Georga

35s for tires and just 63" chevy leaf springs in the rear and I think trail gear leaf's up front

Carpet turned out good

L52