22R Toyota truck wont idle!

[@DadVanture]

it was also my first carb rebuild and i forgot the little bb and nipple that slides into my float valve needle and makes contact with the tab on the float so i had to take it apart a few times... but idk it was a dumb mistake on my part that caused a start idle a few seconds then stumble and die... take off the top of the carb and the bowl was full of water and not halfway up the sight glass... then i bent the tab to far the other way and it was to lean and it dried the bowl out after awhile and died.. once i got the sight level right shes purring like a kitten

[@oscarcameron35]

You can spray starting fluid to find a vacuum leak but beware kinda dangerous

[@toyotas208]

tried no leaks

[@670-u3q]

Is that a weber 38? There's 2 mixture screws 1 each barrel. So should be 3 screws messed with. That's 1. 2, timing. It's a 22r set crank to 0, install distributor as close as u can to point at #1 plug wire . Then shoot it with a timing light. Timing done with advance ports plugged n fully warmed up. That's what I see atleast

[@toyotas208]

32/36 adjusted both thank you

[@the_7th]

If it had the original carburetor, there's a few electrical components that I know that would affect how the pickup runs. But I see that you have a Weber carburetor, so I think it may not be something carburetor related. Since you have a new distributor installed, I would go there and check if it was installed correctly. Recheck for TDC while the engine is off. Maybe it's off by a tooth. Timing should be checked with the vacuum advance unplugged. You will plug that hose after taking it off the vacuum advance. If you still have the label on the hood from the factory, it should list the idle speed and the timing setting. After setting the timing, you will plug the vacuum hose back onto the vacuum advance. What was wrong with the other distributor other than the vacuum advance you mentioned?

[@toyotas208]

Yes there was doubt in the diaphragm on the distributor advance vacuum (dented) so I just replaced the whole thing. I did unplug my vac hose when i did my timing. Also double checked all my timing marks and plumb and they are. but when I run it and have a timing light on it the closest, I can get it to 0 is by 8 degrees advanced. then if I skip a tooth, it goes way past like 12 retar

[@the_7th]

@@toyotas208 Did you try switching back to your old distributor to see if the problem goes away? You can test the diaphragm on the vacuum advance on your old distributor by using a vacuum pump. The hand vacuum pump that you can buy at harbor freight works fine. Not sure how bad the dent is on your old vacuum advance, but if the diaphragm closest to the engine tests out good holding a vacuum; I don't see why not to use that distributor. If the vacuum advance does not hold vacuum, you can use a modified flat head screw driver with a sharp edge and undo the crimp in order to get access to the diaphragm. The diaphragm usually gets a crack in it because they are made of rubber and rubber doesn't last forever. Super glue and plastidip will fix that problem. I've done it before. And once you recrimp the housing on the vacuum advance and still have doubts on it leaking, you can use a sealant around the crimp. I had an '80 4x4 pickup like yours, but it had a 20R with a single diaphragm on the distributor. I wish I would've never sold it. I bought that same distributor you have from O'Reilly, but end up returning it because I thought I could just use the vacuum advance, but that distributor is much smaller than the factory Toyota one. Maybe rockauto might still sell some remanufactured ones?

[@Chris-gq6so]

theres a gasket that sits between the intake manifold and the cylinder head could possibly be a air leak

[@toyotas208]

checked its all tight. just put in new intake

[@davidpasillas6141]

Where do you buy parts for this trucks?

[@toyotas208]

mostly used from marketplace

[@16driver16]

Voltage is at? If the voltage is dropping too low at idle it will stall.

[@toyotas208]

12.5 when idling

[@16driver16]

@@toyotas208 should be 13.5v to 14.5v at idle

[@toyotas208]

being at 12.5 wouldn't affect the idle? then once the rpms rise it is at 14

[@16driver16]

@T.I.T.S. oh I guess my 22r must be different than yours if low voltage doesn't affect idle... I fought it for awhile before I realized what was wrong myself. You could just throw a pair of jumper cables connected to another vehicle or jump pack on it and find out in a second. good luck

[@toyotas208]

will do thank you.

[@oscarcameron35]

Check vacuum hoses

[@Eli-lx2fq]

Check your timing chain/belt.😂

[@Royalivyacademy]

Possible vacuum leak between the carb and the plate.

[@toyotas208]

I sprayed ether around the base of the carb and it did not affect the idle so no leaks there

[@Royalivyacademy]

@@toyotas208 is the carb new? Perhaps it just needs a deep ultrasonic cleaning, with new jets

[@toyotas208]

@@Royalivyacademy the rebuild kit that I ordered just got here, going to take it apart again to install the kit tomorrow morning. I'm suspecting a bad harmonic balancer though after talking with some ppl on yotatech

[@RadioReprised]

My 20R it was EGR valve stuck open.......

[@toyotas208]

a good cleaning and soak in rust remover helps.

[@juanpablonoriegacamacho9706]

Esta succionando mucho aire en el cable rojo de la salida del canister hacia el múltiple de escape que esta conectado en la base el carburador , desconecta ese cable de la base del carburador, taponea esa base y mánda el cable rojo hacia el hacia el piso

[@juanpablonoriegacamacho9706]

Una disculpa quise decir múltiple de admisión

[@juanpablonoriegacamacho9706]

Asegúrate también que el tubito o puerto de conexión de la base del carburador en la cual esta conectada la manguera que va al avance del distribuidor tenga vacío. Es decir funcionando el motor desconecta la manguera del avance y esta debe de succionar es decir que tenga vacío para que pueda mover el avance del distribuidor hacia adelante

[@juanpablonoriegacamacho9706]

Nuevamente otra disculpa no es cable rojo del canister debí decir manguera roja

[@toyotas208]

So your saying just disconnect the red vacuum line from the canister?

[@toyotas208]

@@juanpablonoriegacamacho9706 i disconnected the vacuum from the advance and did not have a vacuum. maybe it is in the wrong port at the base of the carb? there is only two